s/v Libertad

26 May 2017
20 May 2017
18 May 2017 | Isla Providencia
18 May 2017 | Isla Providencia
17 May 2017 | Grand Cayman to Isla Providencia
16 May 2017 | Grand Cayman to Isla Providencia
09 May 2017 | Grand Cayman
04 May 2017 | Cienfuegos, Cuba
03 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
02 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
01 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
28 April 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
27 April 2017
26 April 2017 | Cayman Islands
20 April 2017
18 April 2017

Unloading Libertad in Ensenada

03 July 2017
We got word that the freighter would arrive in Ensenada the afternoon of July 1st and would thus be unloading early the next morning, depending on when they could get a spot at the commercial pier cleared.

Early morning on Fri. July 1, Dennis took the Amtrak train down to San Diego, a shuttle bus to the Mexican border, walked across the border-clearing into the country, and then boarded an ABC bus for the 90 minute ride down to Ensenada.

While enroute he got a message saying they had scheduled us to unload at 11am that day. Don't know what happened - perhaps the boat arrived a full day early, but there was no way Dennis would be in Ensenada until late in the afternoon. They said they would figure something out and rearrange us. But this took numerous phone calls and emails among Virginia, Dennis, and our assigned agent in Ensenada. When Dennis arrived Libertad had been unloaded and was sitting alongside the freighter. The water taxi dropped Dennis at our boat and left. Dennis could not reach anyone on the freighter to ask for them to untie our dock lines and he couldn't reach them from Libertad's deck. He even rapped on their hull with our plastic mallet to no avail. After another set of phone calls among Virginia (still back in Santa Barbara), Dennis, our agent, and various officials with the transport company, we finally got word to the freighter crew and someone dropped our lines.

This story could go on for pages, but the short story is that Dennis had to stay in Ensenada for a few days to make arrangements with the boatyard and customs officials on Monday. We had heard a lot of horror stories about expired Temporary Import Permits, and we were prepared with all the required backup documentation to get ours cancelled and a new one issued, but.....it turns out that when they put our 2004 permit in the system they transposed some of the number of the paper permit so this mismatch requires us to send a lot of paperwork to Mexico city and wait for them to cancel the old before we can get issued the new. Unbelievable. Since Dennis basically spent the full day with Customs on this issue (thank you to the Baja Naval spanish speaking staff member who accompanied Dennis on this all day errand), he got to San Diego very late in the day. He had missed the Amtrak train and Greyhound buses to Santa Barbara. He was only able to get as far as Los Angeles. Virginia met him downtown LA at 11pm at the Greyhound station and got him home safe, but a bit exhausted and crazed.

We are now awaiting a schedule from the boatyard for the TLC we want to do to Libertad before sailing her home to Santa Barbara. We will most likely be making a few trips back and forth to Ensenada before we have Libertad berthed in Santa Barbara.

Loading Libertad in Panama

16 June 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
We got a scheduled loading date from the freighter company and Dennis flew down to Panama on June 14 to load Libertad for its transport through the canal and up the west coast of Central America to Ensenada. He was able to get a round trip ticket from Santa Barbara to Panama City.

There was a bit of confusion caused by a lack of any communication with our assigned agent, but Dennis got the boat successfully loaded and flew home on June 15. There was a long delay in Houston which made him miss his Santa Barbara connection in LA. And his plane arrived so late that the Santa Barbara shuttle bus wasn't running. Virginia drove down to LAX and met him at 2 am. There was very little traffic on the road so the round trip was just about 4 hours. Not bad.

We were very happy that this got him home before June 20 when our Johns' family reunion started in the Santa Barbara area!

Home in Santa Barbara

26 May 2017
We flew home on Friday the 26th on a direct flight from Panama to Los Angeles. A 2 hour shuttle ride north got us into Santa Barbara about 10:30pm. Our son picked us up and delivered us home.

The transport company is updating us every few days and the date for loading Libertad in Panama has slipped a day or two since we arrived back home. So we are happy that we aren't sitting in the heat and humidity of Panama but instead are doing our waiting back home with family and friends. When we get a firm loading date, Dennis will take a quick round trip run to Panama to load Libertad on the freighter. He will then return home to be a part of the Johns family reunion while we await word of the arrival date of the freighter in Ensenada. We will take a train ride to San Diego and several buses across the border and down to Ensenada to meet Libertad.

For now we can enjoy visiting with our family and enjoying our home town.

All's well.

in Panama and Coming Home!

24 May 2017
We arrived here in Colon, Panama on Monday around 0900. As we noted in our short position reports, the first day of the passage was rough with big seas and all but Dennis got a bit seasick. The second day was much calmer - no wind so we had to motor, but seas flattened out and we all recovered and could eat a bit.
We were buddy boating with our friends on Kali Mera (Herbert and Tadeya from Vienna). We spoke 4 times each day on the radio. One time we used SSB as the VHF transmission was a bit noisy, but we are such similar boats that we were within VHF range the whole time. Their boat is an Amel Santorin, the newer version of our Maramu, so 46' ketch, like us. We enjoy this couple very much.

We immediately needed to get rolling with our agent in Panama to start the process of checking us in to Panama and arranging all the paperwork for putting Libertad on the freighter. When we met with him, some of the fees sounded a bit high, so we put him on hold. Now that we have talked with the transport company United Yacht Transport, who contracted with this agent, I think things will get more reasonable. We are waiting to hear back from the agent.


Yesterday we got the news that the freighter is delayed. It won't be leaving Everglades, Florida until June 7, and with a 3 day transport, it will arrive here June 10. We do not want to sit here in this heat and humidity for 2 more weeks, so we are flying home to Santa Barbara this Friday, May 26. Dennis will fly back here a couple days before transport loading and move Libertad over to the freighter by himself. We are in Shelter Bay Marina and they are supposedly loading in the anchorage just outside the marina. Then he will come back to Santa Barbara and await delivery of Libertad to Ensenada....no date estimated for that yet, but the freighter makes several stops between Panama and Ensenada (Costa Rica and La Paz) so it will take some time.

In the meantime, we are preparing the boat for transport, removing sails, lashing down kayaks, stowing dinghy, eating/giving away fresh food, laundry, etc. And we are enjoying meeting yet another great group of cruisers.

Thankfully the marina has a pool and about 4pm each day, when we can't take any more of the heat, we cool off up there. Yesterday we took the marina shuttle into Colon....not a place where we want to be walking around - looks very scary. It was an interesting ride as Colon city is across the canal from the marina. On the way over we took a bridge that opens up periodically between boats going through the canal. On the way back we took the car ferry that makes the crossing at specified times. That allowed us to see the new larger canal. Six of us took a taxi from the marina shuttle drop off point over to Immigration and Customs at the port. Then we took a taxi back to the mall/supermarket where the marina shuttle would meet us.

All's well. We are very anxious to be home and see family and friends!

day 2 enroute to Panama

21 May 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
It was a wild night, but this afternoon we got the calming of the winds that was predicted, which is also starting to flatten out the seas. We are feeling a bit better and even able to eat something. Of the four of us travelling in the two boats, only Dennis did not get any mal de mer...fortunately for Virginia as he is good about taking on her duties while she recovers! She was able to do her watches last night so he got some rest....can't really sleep with the boat rocking and rolling so much.

But things are calmer now, we are motor sailing a straight line to Colon and if things don't change we will be there in about 15-16 hours.

All's well aboard.

on to Panama

20 May 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
We left Isla Providencia at 11:00am. Weather reports were for some high winds and big seas for the first part of our trip and then little wind on the second day. First day has proven to match the reports - wild ride! A bit calmer right now, but doubtful that we'll get much sleep. Should arrive Colon, Panama Monday midday.

All's well aboard
Vessel Name: Libertad
Vessel Make/Model: Amel Maramu, 46'
Hailing Port: Santa Barbara, California
Crew: Dennis Johns, Virginia Johns
About:
We bought our Amel in 2000 and spent the next 11 years preparing for our retirement cruise - a westward circumnavigation. We are members of the Santa Barbara Sail and Power Squadron and have taken many of the USPS courses. [...]
Libertad's Photos - Cappadocia, part 1
Photos 1 to 83 of 83 | Main
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Arriving at the take off point -a flat area among the fairy chimneys.
Filling the balloon -stage one, the gas-driven fan begins the process.
Filling the balloon -stage two, they fire up the torch to get the balloon air-born and the basket upright.
Filling the balloon, nearly ready.
The green Horus balloon was ours and it
Two others appear in the skies as we take off and the sun is still not up.
It
Hot air balloon ride over the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia in Goreme.
Breathtaking for us and a nice scene for the early-rising hiker on the ridge at the center of the photo.
Both the balloons and the scenery were gorgeous -any anxiety slipped away as you floated along very slowly -so relaxing and yet exhilarating.  The pilot would gauge the wind and then lower the balloon to fly between the chimneys.
Goreme below us.
The pink really starting to show up on the hilltop as the sun rises.
The skies started to get crowded, but we were towards the head of the pack -this is looking behind us.  It was interesting to watch as occasionally two balloons would bounce off each other.
We had very good views of the carved out chimneys -spectacular.
It
Going up higher now to avoid the chimney.
We flew over Rose and Red Valleys. The area is laced with access roads for the chase team to be nearby when the balloon lands.
The pink hue of the valleys showing in the early morning light.
Sun getting higher in the sky and so are many of the balloons.
They even installed doors on these carved out caves.
We just passed between these two chimneys. Look closely near the base of the taller chimney, just lower right of center of the photo and you can see a ladder used to get up into the cave.  Suggests that this one is currently occupied.
How did they get into the caves at the top???
Sometimes it would seem like our pilot was taking us up closer for a better look -we seemed to en route to impact this formation.
We got closer.
And closer -but he reminded us that he only had control of up and down.
Here you can see that there are flat areas among the chimneys....giving options for landing.
As these balloons got close to each other; the pilots signaled each other to determine who was going up and who was going down to avoid collision. Problem was, they both needed to go up to avoid the chimneys.
This straight sided one was shaped a bit differently and off by itself.
Attention commanding logo on this balloon.
Lower right you can see some of the chase crews as they follow along from flat spot to flat spot tracking
So we went up...into the warming sun.
....and up.... what a view! 25 balloons in this shot, only 1/3 of the total in the air that morning.
We could see balloons starting to land.
We dropped lower, but drifted quite a bit further -got more than our promised hour ride as we got a grand view of one of the largest cave complexes.
We watched this balloon go down so we could see how it was done.
If it
Looking up into the top of our balloon -the dark green section in the middle is the release valve for allowing air to escape.
Our pilot with his hands on the torch controls.
Pilot is opening up the dark green middle section -and we are starting to descend.
Now going down faster....
And faster.....to land on the trailer -you can see the balloon start to collapse.  Due to a little gust, we missed the trailer and landed on the side of a hill. He had to fire up the torch and get us a little air-born again for the crew to maneuver us onto the trailer.
Our pilot popping a bottle of champagne to celebrate
After spraying it on us, they poured us each a glass.
And we got a certificate to prove that
Turkish breakfast served at the hotel on the roof top terrace which had almost a 360 view out over the area -looking out the front of the hotel.
View behind the hotel.
Indoor portion of the terrace.
Another terrace view.
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum.
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum -long table and benches carved out of the stone.
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum -shorter table in a different cave.
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum -shelves carved into the walls of kitchen.
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum -Church entrance.
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum -Arches architecture mimicked in the caves.
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum -living area for priests.
Bike Ride: Open Air Museum -Some detail carved, some painted.
Bike Ride: Leaving the Open Air Museum, we had a little difficulty finding the path into Rose Valley but after a hair-raising descent down the back of a hill, we made it.
Bike Ride: Rose Valley.
Bike Ride: Rose Valley -a bright sunny day, not too hot, just right for a bike ride.
Bike Ride: Rose Valley
Bike Ride: Rose Valley
Bike Ride: Rose Valley
Bike Ride: Rose Valley -very fun winding our way through the chimneys.
Bike Ride: Rose Valley -not hard to see where they came up with the name.
Turkish Dinner and Dance Show:  Restaurant was in one of the underground caves and set up in the round - with the stage in the middle.  Performers would sometimes turn to face all sides of the venue, but mostly they faced to one particular section, which unfortunately was opposite us, so we saw a lot of backs....but still enjoyable.
Whirling dervish
Musicians -various combinations of instruments played for the dancers and an occasional vocal accompaniment.
Men dancing -quite energetic.
Men dancing -finally got one to face us.
Women dancing -slower, lots of meaningful, communicating hand and arm movements.
Another men
Women dancing and a change of costumes.
Women and men together and all changed costumes.  It struck Dennis as odd that four of the five women dancers were blond. Later she read that a significant percentage of Turks are blond -celtic influence.
Our favorite - the whirling woman
She twirled on this exact spot for at least 10 minutes at a very fast pace -hard to see, but here she was displaying the baskets in various artistic positions.
Then she split her skirt in two and did tricks with that.
Then the lights went out and she lit up.
Beautiful and amazing skill.
Group of belly dancers.
The individual belly dancer adding a scarf to her routine.
Individual belly dancer, all eyes glued...
 
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