s/v Libertad

26 May 2017
20 May 2017
18 May 2017 | Isla Providencia
18 May 2017 | Isla Providencia
17 May 2017 | Grand Cayman to Isla Providencia
16 May 2017 | Grand Cayman to Isla Providencia
09 May 2017 | Grand Cayman
04 May 2017 | Cienfuegos, Cuba
03 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
02 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
01 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
28 April 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
27 April 2017
26 April 2017 | Cayman Islands
20 April 2017
18 April 2017

Unloading Libertad in Ensenada

03 July 2017
We got word that the freighter would arrive in Ensenada the afternoon of July 1st and would thus be unloading early the next morning, depending on when they could get a spot at the commercial pier cleared.

Early morning on Fri. July 1, Dennis took the Amtrak train down to San Diego, a shuttle bus to the Mexican border, walked across the border-clearing into the country, and then boarded an ABC bus for the 90 minute ride down to Ensenada.

While enroute he got a message saying they had scheduled us to unload at 11am that day. Don't know what happened - perhaps the boat arrived a full day early, but there was no way Dennis would be in Ensenada until late in the afternoon. They said they would figure something out and rearrange us. But this took numerous phone calls and emails among Virginia, Dennis, and our assigned agent in Ensenada. When Dennis arrived Libertad had been unloaded and was sitting alongside the freighter. The water taxi dropped Dennis at our boat and left. Dennis could not reach anyone on the freighter to ask for them to untie our dock lines and he couldn't reach them from Libertad's deck. He even rapped on their hull with our plastic mallet to no avail. After another set of phone calls among Virginia (still back in Santa Barbara), Dennis, our agent, and various officials with the transport company, we finally got word to the freighter crew and someone dropped our lines.

This story could go on for pages, but the short story is that Dennis had to stay in Ensenada for a few days to make arrangements with the boatyard and customs officials on Monday. We had heard a lot of horror stories about expired Temporary Import Permits, and we were prepared with all the required backup documentation to get ours cancelled and a new one issued, but.....it turns out that when they put our 2004 permit in the system they transposed some of the number of the paper permit so this mismatch requires us to send a lot of paperwork to Mexico city and wait for them to cancel the old before we can get issued the new. Unbelievable. Since Dennis basically spent the full day with Customs on this issue (thank you to the Baja Naval spanish speaking staff member who accompanied Dennis on this all day errand), he got to San Diego very late in the day. He had missed the Amtrak train and Greyhound buses to Santa Barbara. He was only able to get as far as Los Angeles. Virginia met him downtown LA at 11pm at the Greyhound station and got him home safe, but a bit exhausted and crazed.

We are now awaiting a schedule from the boatyard for the TLC we want to do to Libertad before sailing her home to Santa Barbara. We will most likely be making a few trips back and forth to Ensenada before we have Libertad berthed in Santa Barbara.

Loading Libertad in Panama

16 June 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
We got a scheduled loading date from the freighter company and Dennis flew down to Panama on June 14 to load Libertad for its transport through the canal and up the west coast of Central America to Ensenada. He was able to get a round trip ticket from Santa Barbara to Panama City.

There was a bit of confusion caused by a lack of any communication with our assigned agent, but Dennis got the boat successfully loaded and flew home on June 15. There was a long delay in Houston which made him miss his Santa Barbara connection in LA. And his plane arrived so late that the Santa Barbara shuttle bus wasn't running. Virginia drove down to LAX and met him at 2 am. There was very little traffic on the road so the round trip was just about 4 hours. Not bad.

We were very happy that this got him home before June 20 when our Johns' family reunion started in the Santa Barbara area!

Home in Santa Barbara

26 May 2017
We flew home on Friday the 26th on a direct flight from Panama to Los Angeles. A 2 hour shuttle ride north got us into Santa Barbara about 10:30pm. Our son picked us up and delivered us home.

The transport company is updating us every few days and the date for loading Libertad in Panama has slipped a day or two since we arrived back home. So we are happy that we aren't sitting in the heat and humidity of Panama but instead are doing our waiting back home with family and friends. When we get a firm loading date, Dennis will take a quick round trip run to Panama to load Libertad on the freighter. He will then return home to be a part of the Johns family reunion while we await word of the arrival date of the freighter in Ensenada. We will take a train ride to San Diego and several buses across the border and down to Ensenada to meet Libertad.

For now we can enjoy visiting with our family and enjoying our home town.

All's well.

in Panama and Coming Home!

24 May 2017
We arrived here in Colon, Panama on Monday around 0900. As we noted in our short position reports, the first day of the passage was rough with big seas and all but Dennis got a bit seasick. The second day was much calmer - no wind so we had to motor, but seas flattened out and we all recovered and could eat a bit.
We were buddy boating with our friends on Kali Mera (Herbert and Tadeya from Vienna). We spoke 4 times each day on the radio. One time we used SSB as the VHF transmission was a bit noisy, but we are such similar boats that we were within VHF range the whole time. Their boat is an Amel Santorin, the newer version of our Maramu, so 46' ketch, like us. We enjoy this couple very much.

We immediately needed to get rolling with our agent in Panama to start the process of checking us in to Panama and arranging all the paperwork for putting Libertad on the freighter. When we met with him, some of the fees sounded a bit high, so we put him on hold. Now that we have talked with the transport company United Yacht Transport, who contracted with this agent, I think things will get more reasonable. We are waiting to hear back from the agent.


Yesterday we got the news that the freighter is delayed. It won't be leaving Everglades, Florida until June 7, and with a 3 day transport, it will arrive here June 10. We do not want to sit here in this heat and humidity for 2 more weeks, so we are flying home to Santa Barbara this Friday, May 26. Dennis will fly back here a couple days before transport loading and move Libertad over to the freighter by himself. We are in Shelter Bay Marina and they are supposedly loading in the anchorage just outside the marina. Then he will come back to Santa Barbara and await delivery of Libertad to Ensenada....no date estimated for that yet, but the freighter makes several stops between Panama and Ensenada (Costa Rica and La Paz) so it will take some time.

In the meantime, we are preparing the boat for transport, removing sails, lashing down kayaks, stowing dinghy, eating/giving away fresh food, laundry, etc. And we are enjoying meeting yet another great group of cruisers.

Thankfully the marina has a pool and about 4pm each day, when we can't take any more of the heat, we cool off up there. Yesterday we took the marina shuttle into Colon....not a place where we want to be walking around - looks very scary. It was an interesting ride as Colon city is across the canal from the marina. On the way over we took a bridge that opens up periodically between boats going through the canal. On the way back we took the car ferry that makes the crossing at specified times. That allowed us to see the new larger canal. Six of us took a taxi from the marina shuttle drop off point over to Immigration and Customs at the port. Then we took a taxi back to the mall/supermarket where the marina shuttle would meet us.

All's well. We are very anxious to be home and see family and friends!

day 2 enroute to Panama

21 May 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
It was a wild night, but this afternoon we got the calming of the winds that was predicted, which is also starting to flatten out the seas. We are feeling a bit better and even able to eat something. Of the four of us travelling in the two boats, only Dennis did not get any mal de mer...fortunately for Virginia as he is good about taking on her duties while she recovers! She was able to do her watches last night so he got some rest....can't really sleep with the boat rocking and rolling so much.

But things are calmer now, we are motor sailing a straight line to Colon and if things don't change we will be there in about 15-16 hours.

All's well aboard.

on to Panama

20 May 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
We left Isla Providencia at 11:00am. Weather reports were for some high winds and big seas for the first part of our trip and then little wind on the second day. First day has proven to match the reports - wild ride! A bit calmer right now, but doubtful that we'll get much sleep. Should arrive Colon, Panama Monday midday.

All's well aboard
Vessel Name: Libertad
Vessel Make/Model: Amel Maramu, 46'
Hailing Port: Santa Barbara, California
Crew: Dennis Johns, Virginia Johns
About:
We bought our Amel in 2000 and spent the next 11 years preparing for our retirement cruise - a westward circumnavigation. We are members of the Santa Barbara Sail and Power Squadron and have taken many of the USPS courses. [...]
Libertad's Photos - Croatia
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Cavtat, our port of entry to Croatia.  Looked calm enough but later that evening the wind was blowing in the 30
Dubrovnik, the walled city which repelled the Serbian siege in the 1991 conflict.
Northwestern corner of Dubrovnik as we passed by heading for the marina -no anchorage outside the city.
Cruise ship maneuvering into the dock, blocking our way to the marina.
Under the suspension bridge and past the navy ship.
Attractive river gorge as we continue up river to the marina.
At anchor, just outside the marina waiting for Monday when the rates drop.  That night the wind picked up again and we had another boat drag down on us.  Our ground tackle secure so far.
View of Dubrovnik from Fort Lovrijenac, small fort to the northwest of the city.
Fort Lovrijenac: Small chapel in the fort.
Fort Lovrijenac: View of Lokrum Island where hordes of kayakers paddle out to daily.
Fort Lovrijenac: Virginia manning a cannon in defense of the city.
Pan and Nymph statue/fountain in a quaint little park -just after getting off the bus outside of Old Town.
Dubrovnik: The large Onofrio Fountain greets you as you enter the north gate.  The water is purported to be
Dubrovnik: Stradun (Main Street) -lots of gift shops and ice cream stands.
Dubrovnik: Orlando Column
Dubrovnik: St. Blaise church (St. Blaise is the patron saint of Dubrovnik).
Dubrovnik: St. Blaise church altar.
Dubrovnik: The little Onofrio Fountain at the southeastern end of the city.  Not sure about the water quality as it seemed that pigeons were bathing in the
Dubrovnik: Rector
Dubrovnik: Inside Rector
Dubrovnik: Dubrovnik Cathedral -had several statues adorning the roof.
Dubrovnik: Dubrovnik Cathedral -late Baroque altar in marble.
Dubrovnik: Dubrovnik Cathedral -Silver embossing in gold picture frame.
Dubrovnik: Outside Maritime Museum, Dennis stress-testing fluke.
Dubrovnik: Stairway to Heaven? -no just the
stairs to St. Ignatius Church.
Dubrovnik: St. Ignatius Church.
Dubrovnik: Church of the Holy Annunciation -yes, there was a church around every corner.
Dubrovnik: And another -this one has bells! Church of St. Nicholas.
Dubrovnik: Looking down a
Dubrovnik: Riding the cable car up to the top of the hill behind the city.
Dubrovnik: Full view of the city.
Fort Imperial on top of Srđ hill (the destination of the cable car) houses a museum dedicated to the Croatian War of Independence (aka the Croatian/Serbian Conflict).  This diagram shows all the places (black dots) that bombs landed in the city.
Dubrovnik: Sponza Palace -site of at least two weddings while we were there.
Dubrovnik: St. Blaise church at night.
Dubrovnik: Changing of the guard at the city gates.
Dubrovnik: Walking the wall, we get to see where we
Dubrovnik: The Large Onofrio Fountain.
Dubrovnik: Red clay tile rooftops -makes us a little homesick for Santa Barbara.
Dubrovnik: Looking back on Fort Lovrijenac.
Dubrovnik: It
Dubrovnik: We chose to walk the wall in the evening as it would be quite hot during the day.  So we got to watch the sunset from the wall.
Dubrovnik: Kayakers coming back from a day at Lokrum Island.
Dubrovnik: Grape vines on a trellis on the wall.
Dubrovnik: School yard combination basketball court and short soccer field.
Dubrovnik: Victory garden just inside the wall.
Dubrovnik: Nice bougainvillea bloom along narrow street along wall.
Dubrovnik: Small boat harbor.
Dubrovnik: Bell tower of the Dominican Monastery.
Dubrovnik: Bell and clock tower next to Sponza
Dubrovnik: Winding wall walkway.
Dubrovnik: Unique entrance to building.
Dubrovnik: Final ascent to the northeast corner of the city wall.
Dubrovnik: Sunset over Dubrovnik.
Dubrovnik: More sunset over Dubrovnik.
Dubrovnik: Bronze statues in tower rotate to chime bells.
Dubrovnik: Lights coming on in the city.
Dubrovnik: Special effects lighting (deep red tile roofs) caused by sunset light.
Dubrovnik: Highest point of wall (northeast corner).
Dubrovnik: Picture postcard sunset through the rampart.
Dubrovnik: Virginia disembodied in staircase exiting fort on northeast corner.
Dubrovnik: Final moments on wall as lights begin to twinkle on.
Dubrovnik: Intimate setting for guitar and flute concert.
Dubrovnik: Back-lighting prevented good shot of musicians but they were very good.
Mljet Island anchorage.
Mljet Island ferry stop.
Island in Mljet Island salt water lake -St. Marija monastery.
St. Marija monastery chapel.
St. Marija monastery chapel altar.
Interesting red berry flora on island.
St. Marija monastery tower.
St. Marija monastery stable with young donkey.
Libertad in Mljet Island anchorage.
Remote church without any nearby settlement.
Water sports en route to Paklinski Otoci anchorage.
Busy Hvar Harbor.
Paklinski Otoci anchorage -a hike to get to the small village and marina to get a ferry to Hvar.  One of the few times we took a line to shore and glad we did as anchorage was tight and we were joined by other boats.
No trip to Hvar, so on our way to Skradin on the Krka River, we passed these gun bunkers.
Encountered what appeared to be a race or rally of 30 or more boats all headed in the opposite direction to us.  Did they know something we didn
Cute lighthouse with caretaker house.
St. Nicholas Fortress marking the mouth of the Krka River.
Convoy of boats headed up the river to Skradin.
Winding route but didn
Heavy weather hit as we closed on Skradin and we were lucky to tuck into a cove that got us out of most of the 30 kt gusts that came roaring down the river canyon.  The river supported a large population of beautiful swans.
Note the white caps on the main river channel but the calm water around Libertad.
We also had a nice view of the bridge spanning the river at Skradin.
Weather calmed down for our ride on the ferry up the river to the waterfalls.
The waterfall, Skradinski buk, is a series of very picturesque cascades.
With all the rain the previous day, the flow over the falls was quite spectacular.
Skradinski buk is the largest travertine cascade system in Europe.
They wouldn
River escaping its banks and splashing into the spectator area.
Hiked up to the uppermost cascade.
Calm river above cascade.  Another ferry could take you up to another cascade further up river.
Skradin and the marina we didn
Cathedral of St. James in Sibenik.  One of the
Leaving a nice, quiet, calm anchorage between the islands of Ugljan and Pasman about 6 miles short of Zadar (left Skradin late -ferry down the river left us sitting on the waiting bench at 0930 so we couldn
Zadar: Museum of Ancient Glass.  Impressive building reflecting the exceptional displays inside.
Zadar: A long walk from the marina to Old Town (where all the restaurants, stores, and clearing out offices were) unless you took this rowboat for 5 kuna per person (about USD 0.85 cents).  Well worth it, we took it several times.
Zadar: Musicians and flag waver leading newly married couple through streets of Zadar.
Zadar: The happy couple followed by a large group of well-wishers.
Zadar: Climbed the tower of the  Cathedral of St. Anastasia to get panorama shots of Zadar.  You can see Libertad in the marina in this picture but only if you knew where to look.
Zadar: Top of the tower, one of the main streets of Old Town.
Zadar: The bells of the tower.
Zadar: Roman column still standing near the main gate.
Zadar: The
Zadar: The elaborate main gate into Old Town.
Zadar: Church of Saint Donat and in front of the church are the remains of the Roman forum begun in the 1st century BC.
Zadar: Watching the sunset as we walk the promenade along the bay.
Zadar: The Sea Organ which really sounds like an organ as the swell washes against the concrete promenade.
Zadar: These lights are operated by batteries charged by solar power and produce a light show on a computer program beginning at dusk until the power runs out.
Zadar: This was a free stage production in the Forum of Zadar.  Called
Zadar: Stage set of the short hill seemed to work for every scene (on the backside was a manger).
Zadar: Our last anchorage before crossing the Adriatic to Italy.  The northern tip of Dugi Otok, one of the closest islands to Italy.
 
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