Sailing around the world on the traditional gaff rigged schooner Windjammer

14nm off the coast of South Africa and still no sign of land, the AIS is on overdrive. A slight fog creeps in and suddenly consumes us so that we cannot even see 5m past the bow. Desperate to see land we powered through dense cool fog, we would either run right into it or sail right past it and end up back in Australia. Suddenly the fog began to clear, a small light shone through and then a second light. Curiously staring at the lights directly ahead, trying to determine if it was a ship or land, the fog cleared as quickly as it had come and the two lights became a thousand lights. "LAND AHOY!...finally". Table mountain is next to appear through the clouds as the crew stand in silence taking in the beauty of Capetown. Captain Ashley proudly drove his schooner into home ground, flying the new ships flag with a wandering albatross logo.

Once tied up in front of the luxuriously famous Table Bay hotel we dove for the opportunity to set foot on solid ground, just to ensure it was real. Unbeknown to us, as we had no sense of time or day, we had arrived for the start of the Easter weekend and during the middle of a charity run. We were situated on the public jetty right on the waterfront, therefore our welcoming to Cape Town was quite unique as the waterfront had come alive with thousands of people and live bands and entertainment. The floating curiosity lived up to her name, attracting much interest as we impatiently sat confined to the small jetty, waiting for customs to clear us. Almost two hours had passed and after repeated contact with the port authority, customs had still not shown. Becoming aware of the term "Africa time', we radioed through and told them we were going for breakfast nearby and would return to continue waiting for customs (after we had dropped off all of our stowaways and drugs of course). So there we were, enjoying a traditional large South African breakfast of; bacon, eggs, chips, boerries, steak and mushrooms, as illegal immigrants. With still no word from customs, we were lucky enough to find a man with a truck who knew the ins and outs of customs and immigration. So we loaded up, Tammi and Maggie in the tray, and officially checked into the country. The boat was then given a very thorough scrub and relieved from it's crystallised layer of salt, leaving one to consider the Atlantic crossing as smooth sailing.

The crew were all enjoying a beer at the pub with the waterfront local sailors that afternoon. We must have drunk far too much because we ended up jumping on a boat, ironically a schooner, for a sunset sail. It wasn't until we were out of the harbour that we began to question why on earth we thought that after an exhausting passage where we were so grateful to be back on land, that it was a good idea to get back on a boat in the typical howling South Easterly winds. However, free champagne, great crew and a beautiful boat proved us wrong, as it was a fabulous welcoming to Cape Town. The following evening we were invited to our first South African braai (barbecue) by the Capetonians and introduced to the meat loving culture.


We spent the week dining out, exploring the waterfront and catching up with family. Cathie and Maggie did 7 loads of salt ridden laundry (the first machine wash since January) while enjoying a long anticipated bubble bath - thanks Adrian! With the World Triathlon taking place at the waterfront, we were forced to move into Cape Grace marina till we could find a more permanent yacht club. Cape Grace is an ideal location, however the outrageous rates and lack of facilities encouraged us to look into berthing at Simons Town and Haut Bay. False Bay Yacht Club at Simons Town proved to be the best option with a community of cruisers and weekend sailors involved in the busy and well-facilitated club.

Saturday morning, a week after arriving, we were due to set sail once again to round the Cape of Good Hope and take up a permanent berth in Simons Town. "bridge control, this is schooner windjammer......can we please request the bridge to be opened so we may exit from the harbour". "Schooner windjammer, bridge control, umm..i don't think so". Initially we thought he was taking the micky out of us, until he came back and told us he was under instructions not to open the bridges due to the triathlon that was being held in he harbour. We contacted the port control and eventually the bridge was opened for us as race officials escorted us out of the harbour. With our new crew, Colleen and Graeme on board, we left Cape Town behind and had a wonderful day of motor sailing around the cape and into False Bay. It took about 10hours with minimal wind and was quite pleasant with the sun, whales and seals coming out to play. We arrived in the marina to find a small boat parked on our reserved dock. There was a regatta over the weekend so many boats had crammed into any space they could find for the night. Idling at the end of the dock with no where else to berth and the sun quickly fading, we were forced to take severe measures, we would send in the big guns to make him move - Cathie. Sure enough, a quick word with the boss, the boat had moved back allowing us room to berth. It was a tight squeeze and with many interested people standing by to assist (still penguins), Ashley was feeling the pressure to park it well. He swung around and reversed in and we laughed as the small boat pulled out a small fender and threw it over their hull. The mannerism of the onlookers showed much disbelief in the captains ability and confidence in such an attempt, however respect was gained when the boat was parked skilfully without concern. At the yacht club, where we went for dinner, we found a wine from Vergelegen; an estate that belonged to Ashley's grandfather, Samuel Kerr. Windjammer has continued to attract attention in the marina this morning with the locals referring to us as the Wallabies. Work has already commenced on the exterior timber, the sand paper and varnish is out and there is much work to be done before the rest of the Kerr family arrive in June.

Finally arrived off the coast of Southern Africa only to be met by a big south easter and the north flowing Benguela current. Have been close hauling for the the past 55 hrs averaging 4 kn, but the good news is that the wind should veer and soften in 12 hrs then we can start heading back towards Cape Town. If all goes to plan (which has rarely happened on this leg) then we should be at RCYC by nightfall on Thursday, otherwise first thing Friday morning. Either way hoping to get some good shots of the "fairest cape of all" and Table Mountain without her table cloth.

The South Atlantic has, and continues to deliver 'interesting' winds leaving Jammer confused and the crew frustrated! "What's the wind direction?" Someone shouts from the galley, "It's everywhere but nowhere" replies the helmsman. "Uh okay then what is the wind speed?" "It's kind of varying between 3 and 20kns...." We expect to arrive at Cape Town on Wednesday around midday; however it seems that now, as we are finally so close, King Neptune is determined to tease us. Take today for instance, we were motoring along as there was limited wind, the wind began to build just as I was busy preparing dinner. Having burger's laid out on the galley bench and a constant 12kns wind we decided to hold off on dinner and set the sails. Upon hoisting the foresail, the wind began to build to 23-25kns. We put a reef in the main, all the while I am worrying about the burger patties flying all over the galley floor! The burgers held up, but the wind didn't, it was within an hour that we had to bring all the sails back in with only 3kns wind. Everyone is keeping a close eye on the distance to Cape Town as we begin to see increased traffic and the change of east/west longitude as we crossed the Greenwich meridian.

Arrival is much anticipated as we are almost completely through our gas supply; cups of tea are limited and the hope of a hot shower before stepping onto land is doubtful. We have had a substantial amount of rain which has made watches uncomfortable as it became almost impossible to dry anything. We did however use the opportunity to catch the fresh rain water, enough to overflow the tanks. Strong gusty winds are predicted for our arrival into Cape Town, we may not have the desired stylish entry into the Captains home town. This seems to be consistent when Windjammer enters a new country...challenge accepted! We may have to go for a tough sailor approach, sea shanties and all! Ashley's birthday was on Thursday, I won't reveal his age but will tell you he did not wish to celebrate being a year older. Tammie, however thought it was the occasion to write him a poem:

"When the lines are coiled and the sails are set, stand back, and look, and smile. Because your schooner and crew are healthy and happy, and that's what makes it worthwhile.

You've scaled the mast one too many times, and you've nearly lost a ball. And it's unfortunate but not nearly as bad, as being on a week long close haul.

Like Robin Hood, or more appropriately; Peter Pan, in your marvellous blue-green tights. The Falkland Islands and Tristan da Cunha, are hardly the most cherished sights.

You fixed the bowsprit and the generator, you fixed the heads and yet another sail. So now we are fairly confident that with your help, we can helm forth into another gale.

You may feel the need, as most men do, To relieve yourself off the stern. But please, dear Ashley, with only a week to go, don't fall, as this may cause some concern.

Birthdays, you know they come and go, so aren't you lucky to be with us on a boat. And its great to have you as captain on board, otherwise, god knows if we'd still be afloat".