28 June 2017 | Tuamotos
26 June 2017 | Tuamotos
25 June 2017 | NW pass anchorage, Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
23 June 2017 | Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
21 June 2017 | Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
17 June 2017 | Pouheva village anchorage, Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
16 June 2017 | South Pacific Ocean
15 June 2017 | South Pacific Ocean
14 June 2017 | South Pacific Ocean
14 June 2017 | Taiohae Bay, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas
10 June 2017 | Anoho Bay, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas
07 June 2017 | Anoho Bay, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas
04 June 2017 | Hanamoenoa Bay, Tahuata Island, Marquesas
30 May 2017 | Tahauku Bay, Hiva Oa, Marquesas
29 May 2017 | Pacific Ocean
28 May 2017 | Pacific Ocean
27 May 2017 | Pacific Ocean
26 May 2017 | Pacific Ocean
25 May 2017 | Pacific Ocean
24 May 2017 | Pacific Ocean

Anse Amyot

28 June 2017 | Tuamotos
Gillian
A beautiful night sailing with a little motoring every now and again. We arrived at Anse Amyot at about 10am in perfect conditions. Sun up, light wind and a perfect anchorage with reefs and palm trees surrounding. Bonus - this anchorage was on the outside of the atoll so there was no nasty pass to dodge through, added to which there were mooring buoys so no nasty coral bommies to snag our chain! Neil dived down to check that the mooring was secure, and we spoke to another cruiser later on who said that he had personally dived to our mooring buoy and it was well secured. So a good night sleep will be had I am sure. We went ashore to meet Gaston and Valentine who provide the moorings and have an open home to cruisers who visit. Gaston had just returned with a boat full of fish and we were offered one to take back, but we declined, still nervous about ciguatera poisoning. However Valentine said she was cooking a feast of pork, lobster and fish in a day or two and all the cruisers are invited, so we are very excited about that! After our visit we did a bit of snorkelling and then a walk on the beach before heading back to the boat, for sundowners and a BBQ of NZ lamb and aubergine. How good does it get! There are some strong winds arriving on Thursday so we will say here until it eases and leave here for Tahiti on Friday or Saturday.

Overnight passage to Anse Amyot

26 June 2017 | Tuamotos
Gillian
We were up at 4.30am waiting for dawn to break so we could pull anchor. Once light enough we started but the chain was well and truly caught around a bommie. Finally Neil jumped in with snorkel gear to see what was happening , and thankfully Nick arrived from Sold the Farm to work the windlass while I steered the boat in different directions to try and dislodge it. But no luck, in fact it got worse. Eventually Nick returned with dive gear and Denise to help, and loosened the chain for us, and after ages we managed to get the anchor up. Once more other cruisers have been such a help to us - thank you Nick and Denise! We approached the pass at about 6.45am and found swirling eddies and a strong current pushing us forward. Neil had the engine idling and we were still making 8knots of speed! I was on the bow watching and as we exited the pass we motored into some small standing waves, with me bouncing up and down on the bow - very nail biting! A relief to be through and then up with the sails and a pleasant day of gentle sailing in calm seas and light wind. Over the last hour we have had to motor, but the wind is building again so soon we should be sailing once more. We hope to arrive at Anse Amyot before midday tomorrow, our last atoll before Tahiti.

Waiting

25 June 2017 | NW pass anchorage, Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
Gillian
The weather has continued to be overcast and squally so we have sat here and waited. The wind has swung back to the south east so once more our chain is wrapped around a few bommies. We have otherwise had a good time here, exploring the shore, snorkelling the reefs, coffee and cake on Son of Moondance and pancakes for breakfast on Sold the Farm! We have been watching the pass and it seems there is a continual outgoing current and the two boats that have left since we have arrived have shot through the pass at a furious pace, so we are going to have to bite the bullet soon and do the same. Our plan is to leave tomorrow early morning on slack tide, and then do an overnight passage to Anse Amyot.

Paradise lost!

23 June 2017 | Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
Gillian
What a horrible 24 hours! The wind swung to the north last night and we found ourselves on a lee shore to the reef nearby. Our anchor chain was wrapped around a few bommies so it was jerking up and down and the wind picked up to 24 knots during the night. Neither Neil or I slept much at all, and at 5am in the morning, we discovered that the anchor bow roller had bent badly from the jerking motion. The snubber chafed through on the sharp bent metal and then all our chain (80m) and a lot of rope let loose into the sea. I quickly started the engine and got us moving forward slowly while Neil attempted to pull the chain up but it kept snagging on the bent metal. He tried to hammer the metal a bit straighter but it was impossible to do it on a lurching boat. Lee and Harry from Son of Moondance came over on the dinghy to lend a hand, and assisted Neil with hauling 80m of chain in while I was doing my best to keep the boat into the wind which was difficult in such gusty condit ions. The chain was also wrapped around bommies so that made it extra difficult and all in all it took us about 2 hours to get a free, and what a relief when we were! But then things continued to get difficult. We had poor visibility and uncharted bommies around so one of us steered while the other hung on in the bow of the boat straining to look for bommies in the rain. Two hours later we arrived at the northern pass anchorage in driving rain with lightning all around us. We dropped anchor and thought initially we were on a bommie due to the scraping sound. Neil jumped in the water and had a look and to our relief found that the chain dragging in the coral was making the noise. He attached a fender to the chain near the boat and that lifted it off the rock and a quieter boat. Finally at 11am we were able to have a coffee and a bit of breakfast, while the rain continued filling our water tank with heaps to spare. The rain finally cleared so Neil removed the bow roller and we took it ashore to try hammer it straight. We met a French couple and realised that they were the couple we had seen on the wharf at the village who were being farewelled by the villagers with such affection. It turns out that, as I had guessed, she is a French doctor who had finished her one year contract working on Makemo atoll, and her, her husband and three children were sailing to Nuka Hiva to do a years work there. It was lovely chatting to her and her husband was very helpful, lending us a large hammer and assisting Neil with hammering the bow roller straight. It looked so much better once they had finished and soon Neil had it back on the bow, a bit battered but working well. Son of Moondance had followed us into the anchorage and they all came by for sundowners. A good time was held by all, and we are all looking forward to a very good sleep tonight.

Paradise found!

21 June 2017 | Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
Gillian
Sunday Had the most wonderful sleep! Passed out at 6.30pm and woke at 6am. Nothing like a post passage sleep. Neil was up early too, pulling the watermaker apart, and found that the pistons were too tight. He cleaned them and re greased them and it seems to be working okay. We will see in a day or two. I got all the laundry done and we both scrubbed the waterline in gorgeous clear water of 31 degrees. We have a few Remora fish hanging about and some piper fish chasing schools of little fish. Two other yachts arrived in the early morning and anchored nearby. Looked like a bit of a celebration in the wharf this afternoon, with much speech making and kissing going on. Not sure what it was all about? We thought it initially a ship was coming in but a lot of fuss was made of a couple with three small children. Perhaps they were saying good bye to a French doctor and his family? I can only guess. Monday A noisy night. A squall hit us with heavy rain and then a party started in the village with much hooping and singing. At 6am there was a lot of shouting. My guess is the older residents had had enough. We went ashore early to check in with the Gendarmerie and then walked to the Boulangerie to buy delicious pain de raisin for breakfast and banquette for lunch. Plus a frozen chicken from Argentina and Skippy cornflakes from Australia! Back on the boat we hauled anchor with a bit of difficulty- the anchor chain was wrapped around a bommie, but Neil could see it so clearly in the water so it was easy for me to move the boat in the right direction, round and round the bommie. We motored 16nm down the atoll dodging charted and uncharted bommies on the way. We arrived at our anchor spot in the rain making it difficult to see any bommies but as we were about to anchor the sun came out and we were able to find a sandy spot for our anchor. We took the dinghy ashore to a deserted beach and found hundreds of huge hermit crabs, running around in their stolen spiral shells and climbing in coconuts, shell and all. We walked through the bush and came to a brackish river and the remains of fires and huts but no people. Back on our boat the sun has come out and we are looking forward to a chicken BBQ tonight. Tuesday Got a lot done today. Cleaned the boat, repaired the flag again!, made pickled fish. Neil worked on the second reef, closed a hole in the sunshade, made a water catcher. We both went snorkelling and walked over the motu to the other side to admire the surf on the rocks. Two yachts arrived - Son of Moondancer, and Sold the Farm. We joined them on the beach for sundowners and dodged hermit crabs around our feet. A hungry chicken visited the party and we fed it peanuts and plantain crisps. Wednesday A lovely morning but the weather switched this afternoon so we decided to stay put. We are hoping to head to the north pass anchorage tomorrow and then do an overnight to our next atoll, Fakareva, on Friday night. Busy day again baking bread and banana bread and Neil has spent the whole day checking everything on the watermaker including the pump. Nothing seems a problem so we think the low pressure and low water output must be due to the seals. We have asked the supplier to mail spare seals to New Zealand, and from there we will figure out how to get them to where we are. But at least it is still producing some water and it is keeping up with our needs, although we are being as frugal as we can with water usage.

Perfect timing!

17 June 2017 | Pouheva village anchorage, Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
Gillian
Luckily the wind picked up at about 10pm and we made good speed overnight under sail alone. We approached the pass at 9.30am right on slack tide, and had the advantage of watching two other yachts enter first without any problems. We left the main in and pulled in the jib and then with the engine running made our approach. Not a problem at all - with about 1 knots of current helping us along. Such a relief - our first pass, and it all went well. We motored round to the anchorage outside the village and dropped anchor in 4 m of water. Beautiful clear blue water with coral bommies about, and still water - heaven! Neil was about to jump in the water when he was stung by an aggressive little bee - ouch! We pulled the sting out and wiped his leg with vinegar and that seemed to help. We went ashore to discover elections on the go, with dignitaries in the town hall and Polynesian singing and guitar strumming in an open hall nearby. Bicycles passed by flying flags - French, Tuamotos, and even American. We strolled around the village and looked over the pass we had entered and what a difference - the current looked very strong and there were short steep little waves about. We would not have had a pleasant entrance with those conditions! We found a little snack bar and had lunch of confit chicken and rice. Absolutely delicious! Best meal out for a long time. Back on the boat for a swim and rest. Tomorrow we have a few jobs to do - laundry, fix the watermaker and scrub the waterline.
Vessel Name: Silver Lining
Vessel Make/Model: Hanse 400
Hailing Port: Auckland
Crew: Neil and Gillian
About:
We are from New Zealand and have enjoyed sailing around the Hauraki Gulf and the Bay of Islands. We sailed the South Pacific Islands in May 2011, our first offshore trip on our 34 ft Van DER Stadt. [...]
Home Page: http://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SilverLining
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