Paradise found!
21 June 2017 | Makemo atoll, Tuamotos
Gillian
Sunday Had the most wonderful sleep! Passed out at 6.30pm and woke at 6am. Nothing like a post passage sleep. Neil was up early too, pulling the watermaker apart, and found that the pistons were too tight. He cleaned them and re greased them and it seems to be working okay. We will see in a day or two. I got all the laundry done and we both scrubbed the waterline in gorgeous clear water of 31 degrees. We have a few Remora fish hanging about and some piper fish chasing schools of little fish. Two other yachts arrived in the early morning and anchored nearby. Looked like a bit of a celebration in the wharf this afternoon, with much speech making and kissing going on. Not sure what it was all about? We thought it initially a ship was coming in but a lot of fuss was made of a couple with three small children. Perhaps they were saying good bye to a French doctor and his family? I can only guess. Monday A noisy night. A squall hit us with heavy rain and then a party started in the village with much hooping and singing. At 6am there was a lot of shouting. My guess is the older residents had had enough. We went ashore early to check in with the Gendarmerie and then walked to the Boulangerie to buy delicious pain de raisin for breakfast and banquette for lunch. Plus a frozen chicken from Argentina and Skippy cornflakes from Australia! Back on the boat we hauled anchor with a bit of difficulty- the anchor chain was wrapped around a bommie, but Neil could see it so clearly in the water so it was easy for me to move the boat in the right direction, round and round the bommie. We motored 16nm down the atoll dodging charted and uncharted bommies on the way. We arrived at our anchor spot in the rain making it difficult to see any bommies but as we were about to anchor the sun came out and we were able to find a sandy spot for our anchor. We took the dinghy ashore to a deserted beach and found hundreds of huge hermit crabs, running around in their stolen spiral shells and climbing in coconuts, shell and all. We walked through the bush and came to a brackish river and the remains of fires and huts but no people. Back on our boat the sun has come out and we are looking forward to a chicken BBQ tonight. Tuesday Got a lot done today. Cleaned the boat, repaired the flag again!, made pickled fish. Neil worked on the second reef, closed a hole in the sunshade, made a water catcher. We both went snorkelling and walked over the motu to the other side to admire the surf on the rocks. Two yachts arrived - Son of Moondancer, and Sold the Farm. We joined them on the beach for sundowners and dodged hermit crabs around our feet. A hungry chicken visited the party and we fed it peanuts and plantain crisps. Wednesday A lovely morning but the weather switched this afternoon so we decided to stay put. We are hoping to head to the north pass anchorage tomorrow and then do an overnight to our next atoll, Fakareva, on Friday night. Busy day again baking bread and banana bread and Neil has spent the whole day checking everything on the watermaker including the pump. Nothing seems a problem so we think the low pressure and low water output must be due to the seals. We have asked the supplier to mail spare seals to New Zealand, and from there we will figure out how to get them to where we are. But at least it is still producing some water and it is keeping up with our needs, although we are being as frugal as we can with water usage.