Another peaceful night until 10pm when the wind dropped and the engine came on, with the main flapping away in the light winds and keeping us awake. We approached Tonga at dawn and as we rounded a point saw a large whale really close to us, breaching, and puffing a spray of water - amazing! Round the next point and we found s/v Scallywag who were arriving in Tonga via Samoa and Nuitaputapu. It was great to make our way down the channel to Neiafu, with wonderful memories of our previous trip in 2011. Surprise, surprise as we approached the customs dock who did we see, but Son of Moondance and Eudora, who were clearing out en route to Fiji. We first tried to moor behind a huge catamaran but got tangled in a fishing boat anchor line. We somehow managed to get past without the rope snagging our propellor but it was a tense moment. Next attempt was on a very scary dock with concrete wall and protruding fenders that were higher than the deck on our boat. On top of that someone had left corrugated iron roofing on the ground protruding off the side of the dock. In the end it was okay and we managed to tie up, with the help of our friends on Son of Moondance and Eudora. The customs officer arrived with a wad of forms to fill out, and while Neil sat with him I rushed off to draw some cash to pay the Quarantine and Health inspector. The Quarantine officer asked what we had in our freezer and when we said Mahi Mahi, he said how much he liked it, and was very grateful when we gave him some. The Health inspector visited us on board, discussed the rugby and then charged us $100 for clearance, which we understand is a donation to the hospital. All done, we managed to get off the dock without an incident and picked up a mooring ball close to the Aquarium cafe. We walked to the market to discuss a carving with Primrose the local carver. We are wanting him to carve us a pole that we can use to support our chart table in the boat. Next stop was the Tropicana cafe - we had heard that the owner there had gas adaptors for filling our European gas bottles. To our relief, he did have the adaptors and agreed to have the bottles filled for us, but could only do it next week. Oh well, one pot meals for only a few more days and then we will have gas again. Once we get to New Zealand we will have to replace the gas bottles and connectors with NZ ones, but at least we will have enough gas until then. We stopped at the Aquarium cafe for a light early dinner and then back on board for a quiet evening and early bed. Oh how good it is to be here!