Terry Bingham
16/04/2002

The end is near . . . . . . the sad fact is - my visa expired a couple weeks ago and Migracion was kind enough to let me stay until the 19th so that I could complete the boat projects and prepare to leave. Before I do, let me tell you about that diesel problem. After checking several things, I determined that the source of the leak was the high pressure injection pump - the one I had replaced in Astoria, Oregon in '99. I found a technician in Zihuataneo that could service the pump, so I made plans to remove it (a major chore in itself) and deliver it to his shop. Although I had previously checked with him to make sure he was working during Easter week (this, a notorious problem in Mexico), when I arrived with the pump in hand he was nowhere to be found. Over the next couple of days I became more frustrated as I wasn't able to make connections with him and of course I couldn't run the engine to charge batteries with the pump removed.

At this time there was a gringo diesel mechanic from the large port city of Lazaro Cardenas, about 60 miles north, working on several cruising boats in Zihua. Thinking that perhaps he could help me out I contacted him aboard a friend's boat and he offered to take the pump to a shop he was 'very familiar with' in Lazaro C., have them service it and return it to me within a day or two. He assured me that since Lazaro C. was such a bustling port, there was no taking time off for Easter in the shops there. Surprisingly, after taking the pump that afternoon, he returned the next day with it, as he described, "completely rebuilt and ready to go." The cost was 2600 pesos, and knowing the complexity of the pump, a not unreasonable amount. While examining it, however, I noted one part had been installed reversed and another did not seem right, and pointing this out to him he simply said he'd return it to the shop and they would make it right. I hadn't paid him and he said he would have the pump back in perfect condition and then we could settle up.

Two days later he returned and the pump looked right to me. I paid him - he said not to worry, the shop that did the work would stand by it - and I took the pump out to install it on the engine. The short story is: the engine would barely run at all, and there was really no way I could even determine if the leak had been fixed !! Obviously there was a big problem so I decided to wait for the mechanic to return, afterall he was working on five other boats here in the bay. But after two days of him not showing (and as of now he has yet to return) I became discouraged and went to see the local guy. Easter was past and he was back at work, somewhat apologetic about being gone after he had assured me he'd be working. I arranged to bring him to the boat, where he could listen to the problem, and after finally getting the engine to run he said the pump would have to go to his shop for disassembly. Once again (I'm getting better at this) the pump was removed and I arrived at his shop, telling him in my best halting Spanish that I would be staying there and observing his work. He didn't seem to mind, so I watched as he first ran it on his test equipment for half an hour then mounted it to a workbench and had it totally apart in ten minutes ! As he was removing this part and that assembly, I would try to communicate that I wanted to know if any of the parts, gaskets, seals and O-rings were new, and he would continually reply, "No - es no nuevo". He finally determined that one seal had probably been replaced on the shaft, correcting the leak, but he (and of course I) was dismayed that anyone would completely strip the pump down, and then not replace the seals, etc with new, particularly after charging for a rebuild. But of course I have no way of knowing exactly what was done, or specified, or charged by the shop in Lazaro C., because I had only dealt with the American mechanic as intermediary.

Two days, and 2000 additional pesos later I had the pump back and the technician requested to be with me when I reinstalled it - even coming out to the boat on a Sunday while we got it back in and running. This guy was not only proud of his work, but took an interest to see that everything was reinstalled correctly and the engine was running smoothly. The story of Dennis Doyle, the gringo mechanic from Lazaro C. is unclear. He never returned to Zihuatanejo after collecting my 2600 pesos. The other cruisers he was working for finally hired other mechanics to complete their work and have moved on. The worst situation was a sailboat, it's entire engine Dennis had removed and transported to a shop in Lazaro C. - and the boatowner didn't even know what shop. With the help of some locals, he went to Lazaro C., hunted down the shop, found his engine completely torn down with the prognosis that it was too far gone to repair and further found that the shop had received none of the US$ 1200 prepayment he had made to Dennis !! He returned to Zihua that day with the pieces of his engine and total dismay. As I was preparing to leave, he had purchased a 25 horse outboard and was fabbing a mount to the side of his forty footer and planning to return to Victoria, BC, his cruising plans in limbo. At least I now have a smooth running engine and can make final preparations to head north - which I'm off to do now. The moral: Like everything else in life - know who you're dealing with ! I placed too much confidence in the fact that this guy was working on several other boats.

I plan to leave here around 22 April and head offshore, following the so-called "Clipper Route" which takes advantage first of the trade winds to attain sufficient westing to gain a favorable position with the Pacific High Pressure Center, then hopefully picking up southerlies there to carry north to 40 N, where we can begin to head NE toward Oregon or Washington with westerlies and northwesterlies. The benefit versus traveling north along the coast is a more comfortable trip away from land and the dangers there. Estimated passage time is 30 to 35 days over a course of 3500 - 4000 miles. Destination is Newport, OR where I can leave the boat in the marina and travel to Bend to help my daughter and her family construct their new home. After that, my plans are open and I may stay in the NW for a bit, working to replenish the kitty, or return to Mexico or head to Hawaii and points SW. Que sera, sera.

I hope this finds you all enjoying the return of spring (except for you in the southern hemisphere who are well into fall) and a beautiful summer.

Fair Winds - - Terry and Secret O' Life

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Terry Bingham
15/03/2002

Hello from sunny, warm Zihuatanejo. About 100 miles north of Acapulco, Zihuatanejo is a beautiful, protected bay, with a city that seems to be just the 'right' size. Almost everything one needs can be found here - the fresh market is the best I've seen in Mexico - and for engine parts, refrigeration and mechanical supplies, most things are covered. There are several good anchorages in the bay here, and I've found happiness just off Playa Madera giving a good view of the municipal beaches and a short dinghy ride into town. Off and on a long south swell finds it's way in here, but is hardly noticed. The other popular anchorage is a half mile south, off Playa la Ropa, where in February, there were as many as 40 boats at anchor. While it's a longer dinghy ride to town and due to the swell a stern anchor is required, it is popular for it's long, pristine white beach with many palapas, and an afternoon volley ball game several days a week. During the Zihuatanejo Sail Fest at the end of February, it was said there was a total of over 75 boats anchored in Zihuatanejo Bay !

I found this to be such an enjoyable place, I decided to attack the deck removal project while here in the anchorage (read about that on this webpage under the heading: Secret O' Life, the boat). When I wasn't working on projects, I found many things to keep me busy in town. The market is always an interesting trip, and a great place for an inexpensive lunch. The variety of produce constantly amazed me as well as the presentation of all the many fish and meats. A couple of interesting notes - there is a surplus of Internet cafes in Zihua and the costs were as cheap as anywhere I've been, usually 10 pesos per hour, about US$ 1.10; and the laundry services here (there are typically no self service Laundromats in the smaller cities and towns in Mexico), are the most expensive at 15 pesos per kilo, or about US$ 0.80 per pound. There are so many other "good deals", that's it's hard to complain about anything.

One of these "must enjoy" activities is Thursday Pozole, an early afternoon meal with excellent live music and the true spirit of Mexico. Pozole (po-ZO-lay)is a traditional Mexican soup made with hominy and green chile. Added to this, can be either pork or chicken, but in this region it is typically pork and it is only served on Thursday at many places to celebrate the tradition of killing the pig on Wednesday, the soup being made from various parts not consumed in other ways. Much celebration accompanies the serving of pozole, and one of the finest Pozolerias can be found in Zihuatanejo. Prior to serving the pozole, a large selection of botanos gratis, or snacks included, are served, consisting of small chile rellenos, fried pork rind, taquitos, sliced avocado and tortilla chips with a bean dip. This all accompanied by cold juices or cerveza, and then finally a large bowl of pozole with a generous helping of shredded pork or chicken added on top. Condiments provided on each table to be added depending on ones own taste include chopped onions, sliced limes to juice, Mexican oregano and additional red or green powdered chile. During all this, the restaurant is packed with locals taking an extra long lunch siesta, and the music goes on nonstop. The cost for all this ? 30 pesos for the medium bowl (enough to fill me) or 35 pesos for the large (drinks extra), which I tried once and had real difficulty finishing ! Needless to say, after spending over 3 months in Zihua, Thursday pozole became a tradition for me.

Another nice break once a week for many cruisers was the cinema. A double feature, usually recent and typically in English with Spanish subtitles, for 20 pesos. And while not truly air conditioned, there are enough fans in the theater to keep it comfortably cooler than the hot afternoon. First feature starts at 4, so it's a great way to escape the hotter part of the day now and then. Oh, go to the early show on Sunday and it's two tickets for 20 pesos ! Which brings us to Sunday evening. There's a plaza right on the beach in downtown, only a short walk from the dinghy landing. Located in this plaza are a large gazebo, a nicely constructed small amphitheater, and a full size basketball court, sunken several steps below plaza level with 4 or 5 tiers of seating on the inshore side giving a nice view across the court and out over the bay. There is usually some activity in the plaza most evenings and almost always a few organized as well as pickup games of basketball. But on Sunday evening, many of the townspeople come out to enjoy, what the cruising community has dubbed, "the grazing".

Starting at around 1800 hours, several food vendors arrive (most only do this on Sunday, they are busy with other jobs during the week) and set up in the plaza. There will also be some type of organized entertainment, usually music, in the basketball court following a late afternoon game or two. The food proffered includes several kinds of tacos, delicious tamales done Oaxacania style (wrapped in banana leaf rather than corn husk), empanadas assembled and cooked to your order with the choice of numerous fillings, fresh cut fruits and juices, popcorn and ice cream - all inexpensively priced. Needless to say, not only many of the townsfolk, but a majority of the cruisers in the bay find their way to the plaza on Sunday evenings (the lineup for empanadas can sometimes exceed an hour!). Also located adjacent to the plaza every evening is a young man, a professor at a computer school by day, a hot dog and hamburger vendor at night ! He has a very modern and well equipped pushcart with icebox and gas grill and he'll custom build a hamburger with two kinds of cheese, a slice of ham and avocado in addition to the usual condiments for a paltry 18 pesos - US$ 2. Next door there's a small tienda (store), where one can buy an ice cold cerveza in a cup to go for only 8 pesos. So for three or four dollars a great burger and a couple beers - it's certainly been my dinner more than once !

There are many, many more attributes of this lovely city, but it would probably be best if you came and explored for yourself - till next time, this is Terry, aboard Secret O' Life , signing off.

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