Terry Bingham
20/08/2004

Greetings to all from beautiful Steamboat Springs, CO. The short story - SECRET O' LIFE is tucked away in a secure slip in Pittsburg, CA and I am in Steamboat starting construction on son Brad's and his girlfriend Carri's new house. For the longer version, read on.

We hauled SECRET O' LIFE on 2 June in La Conner, WA for a bottom paint job and small repair on the rudder packing gland. Back in the water on the 5th and out the Swinomish Channel the evening of the 6th to anchor just inside Deception Pass to wait for a high slack the next morning. Tammy is aboard for this delivery, expected to take about two weeks, to a quiet marina - Snug Harbor - in the Sacramento River delta. Early morning on the 7th found us passing uneventfully under the Deception Pass bridge for perhaps the last time. With little wind and some minor fog, we motor-sailed toward Sequim and a planned visit with old cruising friends from Mexico and the '99 Ha-Ha, Brian and Linda aboard TUNDRA SPIRIT, ex Tayana 37, now a Krogen 42 motor yacht. It was Brian's B-Day, so we celebrated at the nearby Indian casino with fish and chips and enjoyed a nice catch-up with them. They plan to head south to San Diego soon, with the possibility of Mexico in another year.

Leaving Sequim early the next a.m. we soon encountered fog in Dungeness Bay with visibility of 300 yards and little wind. No sooner than we entered deeper water, we sighted an Ohio class sub parked in the bay and evidently exchanging crew as there was a small vessel transiting back and forth between the sub and the marina at Sequim. Leaving them with plenty of room we continued on in dense fog for the next several hours as we passed by Port Angeles on our way out the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Of my several trips west in the Strait, this day saw the least wind and adverse seas untill within 15 miles of Neah Bay, near Cape Flattery. With an ebb current opposing the west wind, the last few hours into Neah Bay were somewhat uncomfortable, but manageable. Arriving in Neah Bay and receiving a current weather forecast of fair winds - N 10-15 - for that night, we decided to not drop anchor, but simply drifted for an hour while we made the boat ready to round the cape and head south.

The sun was just setting as we cleared Tatoosh Island, the last bit of land at the tip of the Strait, and started a slow turn left that would take us some 10 -15 miles offshore and south toward Oregon. Hopefully, we raised some sail and continued to motor in quite confused seas while we waited and watched for the forecasted N winds. By midnight we were still motoring with just the main for stability when we agreed that we would be doing this for a while as what little wind we had was from the SW. At these latitudes it's a relatively short time - 6 hours or so - from dusk to dawn, so the night passed quickly and sunrise found us continuing to motor SSE about 20 miles offshore in varied seas. All day we continued to motor along, but I was getting some indications from the engine that either the fuel filter was clogging or a fuel line was sucking a slight amount of air, so we made the decision to go toward shore and make for the Columbia River, where we could enter across the bar on a favorable tide to anchor behind Sand Island, just a few miles upriver. This was the third crossing of the Columbia bar for me and the boat (Tammy's first), but by far the most unnerving. While the bar itself was fairly quiet at the top of a flood, a brisk westerly had come up late afternoon and the current was setting strongly onto Satsop Spit, south side of the channel and the site of many a shipwreck. For most of the 6 or 8 miles in the channel I was pointing the boat NNE while we tracked E - perhaps a 35 to 40 degree variance.

Once fully into the river channel and current we were drawn more directly upriver and found a decent anchorage before dark. Tired form the previous night and day, we decided to spend the whole next day replacing a fuel filter, tightening fuel lines and just relaxing. We had an option of leaving that evening on a high slack, but opted to stay one more night and leave fresh early morning on the next high slack. This also went well with another forecast of N-15, but after a very quiet bar crossing we raised sail and made perhaps 5 hours before losing all wind and motoring once again about 15 miles off the Oregon coast. We were shooting for Coos Bay where we could arrive the following morning on a favorable tide so we pushed on through the afternoon and evening. Once the sun set though, the engine started again with it's complaints that told me there was air mixing with the fuel (surging 50 to 200 RPM), but later started with the opposite - consistently dropping RPM, so we opted to alter course for Newport where we knew the entrance and were comfortable with an entry there anytime except the bottom third of the ebb.

Sometime after midnight the engine complained further, and just quit altogether prompting me to consider that the secondary fuel filter had clogged and required changing. This easier said than done while slopping around at 2 a.m. in confused seas, but with Tammy alternately trying to steer the boat in the little wind we had and helping hold a flashlight in the tight engine space, the feat was accomplished and after going through the precise Perkins air bleeding process twice, we were once again under engine power with an 0700 ETA at the Newport Jetty, which coincided well with the tide and current. Once into the marina we fueled at $1.78/gal, the cheapest we found anywhere on this trip, took a slip and caught several hours of sleep. Afternoon we checked in with Dennis and Linda, aboard S/V THE FIX, who maintain an SSCA outstation there, and who promptly offered a ride to the store and later the loan of a car so I could pick up some new fuel hose clamps and filters. We stayed the night there and while I did engine work the next day, Tammy was able to do a couple loads of laundry and some internet surfing on the convenient Ethernet connection in the marina's laundry room !!

Once again hearing the favorable reports of "N - 15-20" we decided to escape on a high slack that evening around 8:00, and once past the jetty raised full sail, set the wind vane and enjoyed great sailing S through the night. With the good winds, we bypassed Coos Bay and continued with an undetermined destination - perhaps Crescent City or Eureka. That evening the forecast was for N - 20-25, which with our downwind direction is about as good as one can find, but between 8 and 11 p.m. we had decreased sail to a poled out staysail only as the wind had steadily increased to 35, gusting a little higher. Sometime around midnight I heard a sharp "pop" and felt the boat changed course. Going to the wheel and getting back on course, I found the wind vane control line slack and saw that a turning block had exploded, obviously from extreme load in the rising seas. That was the end of a relaxing ride for me as I now had to stay at the wheel to control the boat and over the next few hours we continued downwind at 6-7 knts as the N wind increased to 45, gusting 50, and the seas built to 15'-18'.

It was fairly easy to alter our course for a landfall at Crescent City, so while Tammy monitored our progress at the nav station and passed me bits of jerky and chocolate, I continued at the wheel trying to maintain a decent course as the boat slewed port and starboard trying to surf every 4th or 5th wave (hard to surf a 25,000# full keel hull, but if the conditions are just right, it happens !!) During the worst of the seas - perhaps we had picked up some cross-swell - we took several breaking crests into the cockpit and one memorable wave that saw green water tumbling over the cockpit combing to rise above the bridge deck momentarily before quickly draining out. That put water above my knees as I fought the wheel to bring the boat back on course and was definitely the highlight of the almost 10 hours I hand steered before we found the lee at Crescent City and took a side tie at the transient dock there. We slept for several hours while the gale continued to blow outside the harbor.

The following morning the N wind subsided and immediately picked up from the S, blowing 20-25 kts for the next 24 hours, so we worked on a repair/modification of the wind vane and saw a bit of Crescent City, a town that once enjoyed the prosperity of booming timber harvests that now depends on a bit of fishing and tourism. After 3 nights in harbor we finally saw a forecast for N wind again, so on the morning of the 18th we headed out looking for a little less exciting wind and seas. Throughout the day and night we alternated sailing and motoring, making it around Cape Mendocino at night in quiet conditions. The coastline at this point makes a sharp bend SE and the winds can be substantial here, but we were treated to a calm passage this night. By mid-morning we felt the need for some rest and considered going into Fort Bragg (Noya River) for a spell, but opted instead to take anchorage in Mendocino Bay, about 10 miles further S, for several hours of sleep and a good meal.

Leaving in the early evening we soon found N wind 15-20, which through the night built to 30-35 and saw us back to running with the poled out staysail again as we passed by Point Arena and rapidly closed on Pt. Reyes, the place where we would turn east and head toward San Francisco and the Golden Gate. At this time of year and through summer the substantial winds along the entire coastline from the Columbia River to Point Conception are generated by pressure differentials caused by rapid heating of the inland valleys (from Salem, OR all the way to Bakersfield, CA) and fed by the ever present Pacific High pressure dome. As this low pressure trough builds inshore, the daily slackening of the afternoon sea breeze doesn't occur so that additional warming the following day generates more and more wind, leading to a high percentage of gales all along the coast out to 50 miles offshore. It makes for interesting passage along here - either not enough or too much wind, infrequently "just right".

As we approached the Golden Gate on Father's Day a little after noon, the wind was W -25 and we left the dismal overcast conditions to find brilliant blue sky and crisp views of the San Francisco skyline. Within an hour we had taken up a mooring at the Sausalito Yacht Club and were heading ashore for a hot shower and a walk around town. Leaving there early the next morning, we had a long day north and east through San Pablo Bay, the Carquinez Strait and up the Sacramento River to Snug Harbor Marina, where I had arranged to leave the boat while I traveled to Colorado. Unfortunately, we found inadequate depths there (why I was told they could accommodate us, I don't know) and were forced to seek an alternative which turned out to be a return down the river 20 miles or so to the City of Pittsburg Marina, a very nice facility where SECRET O' LIFE is waiting our return early November for a few minor repairs and continuation down to San Diego and Mexico.

Watch for an updated posting here by Christmas or New Years - Fair Winds to all.

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Terry Bingham
22/04/2002

I've been running all over Zihuatanejo doing those last minute things required prior to a long voyage. I checked out with the Port Captain on Friday, so I'm legal to leave the country, and I'm looking to haul anchor late afternoon and take advantage of the wind that usually builds and carries into late evening. In my opinion, long ocean passages require several things: adequate provisions for 50% longer than the estimated passage time; ditto for water; full fuel tanks and reserves in jerry cans if there's room; a vessel capable and prepared for the intended voyage - and a positive mindset amongst the crew. These last two topics go hand in hand, for the captain and crew of the vessel must have total confidence in the reliability and capability of the vessel to endure any challenges that may be encountered in order to insure their own comfort, safety and belief in a successful passage. There are countless stories of voyages resulting in tragedy when the crew lost that confidence in their vessel and abandoned - many never to be seen again. In almost all cases, when the chicken feathers hit the fan, the crew could wedge themselves into a corner and let the boat tend to herself, and the result would be positive. Once again, the old cliche: "Never leave your vessel until you have to step UP into the liferaft."

And one other, "Be careful what you wish for." We were nine days out of Zihuatanejo and I was remembering the previous eight. Only one day had seen over one hundred miles and on several occasions I had run the engine for two or three hours to charge the batteries AND move us along on oily slick seas. It was now blowing 18 knots and I was reefing the main in anticipation of what looked like an increase coming. I thought more than once about the times in the past few days I'd "wished for more wind" and wondered just how much of that wish would be granted. The answer to that would take many more days coming, but I would get the answer eventually.

When I plotted this course, oftentimes referred to as the "Clipper Route", since it was supposedly used to go north in the 1800s by the square-riggers whose capability to make progress to windward was limited, I accepted the fact that we would actually have to head somewhat south for the first few days, since the prevailing winds along the Mexican coast are northwesterlies, and to make any progress north would require beating hard into them. So, on that Monday evening leaving Zihuatanejo, I wasn't too concerned about our heading when I realized the best we could do was southwest. Looking back on those days brought memories of drifting along at under 2 knots and working several hours in the middle of the nights trying to eek out another half knot or at least stay on course. Because the passage was so long, thirty-five hundred miles at least, I was reluctant to burn much fuel since I knew there would be times further north when we would have to motor. Still being in the tropics, the days were hot and the nights comfortable, but I noted a slow decline in the water temperature and this began to have the effect of progressively bringing the nighttime temps down, which I realized would soon carry through to the days - especially when we began to encounter overcast. On day six I noticed that the refrigerator wasn't keeping it's normal temperature, although the compressor was running and everything looked OK - it just wasn't making cold. Having no way to check it or deal with it, I shut it down and moved most perishables down in the bilge where they would be kept at water temperature, now below 70 degrees and falling fast. The four pounds of aracherra - marinated flank steak - I made into a stew, which I then kept sealed in the pressure cooker, reheating it to take a serving and then bringing it to pressure and leaving it sealed until the next meal. The cheeses and yogurt kept in the bilge would last the entire voyage.

It was now day ten and the wind was starting to settle in at a comfortable 15 knots, when early in the morning I had the unique experience to make contact on the VHF with the vessel "Fantasea", located in Cabo San Lucas some 375 miles north of our position. Normally, VHF is good for 30 - 50 miles at the most, but on occasion an atmospheric "skip" allows more distant contact. Through "Fantasea" I was relayed a message from friends aboard "Synchronicity", another sailboat that had left Cabo that morning and was setting out for Vancouver, BC via the Clipper Route. Maybe we would actually be able to rendezvous mid Pacific? This route would take us up to 1000 miles off the coast of California, hopefully with nice northeasterly winds and then place us near the Pacific High Pressure Center around which, depending on it's location, we would venture the west side or east side for more favorable winds going north. Once past the high, we could expect northwest winds and bear off on a comfortable reach, "Secret O' Life" heading for Newport, OR while "Synchronicity", with a family of four aboard who had just recently finished a world circumnavigation, would head further north to Cape Flattery, WA and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. At the least, I was looking forward to being close enough to them at some point that we could pass messages via the VHF.

Later that same day, after taking a reef in the main with the wind now a steady 25 knots, I sighted Isla Clarion, the furthest west of the Mexican islands, and passed within three miles on the windward side in seas approaching eight feet. I guess I was getting my wish for wind as we would do 144 miles in the next 24 hours - a very good day! After being offshore for ten days, approaching Clarion (which reminded me so much of Molokai in the Hawaiian chain) brought butterflies to my stomach, since out here one worries not so much about the ocean as about land and potential grounding. Several scenarios played through my mind: what if we lost steering right now? What if a sail were to blow out? We'd be blown onto the rocky shore for sure! Once past the island, I began to settle down knowing it would be weeks before the dangers of land would once again be present off the bows.

Day 11 brought more wind, keeping us in a reefed condition, and it also brought the cold. I dug out polarfleece pants, a sweatshirt and something I hadn't worn in a long time - socks! We were consistently moving along above 7 knots, about the limit for my comfort level. "Secret O' Life" has a theoretical hull speed of only 7.4 knots, so things start to get a little squirrely as we approach that speed and I prefer, especially when on passage, to keep it at 7 or a little under. This day also saw us cross our westbound track to Hawaii of May, 2000! As I reviewed the log, I noted conditions were about identical at this spot on that voyage and it had been ten days later in May. Pretty consistent out here along latitude 20N. Later on I heard a crystal clear call from USCG in Los Angeles on the VHF. There has to be almost 900 miles between us!

We flew along during the next week as we made progress in latitude to the North, but also sliding further West in longitude. Four days above 135 miles, and three days above 145 ! The comfort level was OK though, as we had been constantly on starboard tack which allows a little easier use of the galley. To pass the time I was reading a bit, maintaining a watch on the horizon as I could, downloading weatherfaxes from the short-wave radio to the computer and listening to a couple H-F nets. "Synchronicity" was checking in daily on the Seafarer's Net, so I was able to keep track of their position. I was staying about two days ahead of them and they were parallel to my track so I didn't suppose we would make contact any time soon.

Days 19, 20 & 21 saw the mileage drop a bit into the 110 - 120 range and from the latest weatherfax I knew we were approaching the Pacific High. Trouble is, that thing moves around all the time, and if it wants to move 600 miles in one day, no problem. So one questions the usefulness of these tools when the boat can only do at best, 145 miles in a day, but they are good for planning and once the weather systems settle in for the summer, they are much more consistent and stable. It was still getting colder and now most of the day was overcast, sometimes with a small rain storm moving through, so I spent an afternoon recommissioning my propane fired bulkhead heater, an item I'd seen no use for in the past three years! Late in the night on day 20, our speed dropped below 2 knots and I invested the next 17 hours in diesel burning to find enough wind to keep moving. This is a classic situation in crossing the high - at some point you motor for a day or two, or drift for several days waiting for the high to reposition and allow some wind your way. At this time the Pacific was all it should be: calm and deep blue with not a cloud in the sky.

Just wait and it will change, I thought. Late on day 21 and all through day 22 it was back to squally, rainy weather with winds in the high teens and low twenties, making for a little less comfort than the previous days. A lot of sail changing takes place in this kind of weather and it seems I was always putting in or shaking out a reef or rolling the Yankee in or out. Then on the morning of day 23, there was no wind and we were motoring again. Midmorning I saw the first traffic since a small fishing boat on day 3! A large tanker heading west and when I called him on the VHF he advised they were enroute Long Beach to Korea. At three that afternoon a westbound Nissan car carrier appeared and I called him up to inquire about weather. He said they had just gotten out of a gale in the last 12 hours and that agreed with what I saw on the weatherfax. At least that storm was east of us and would cause no problems. By 6 p.m. there was enough wind to make 4 knots so I shut down the engine and enjoyed the quiet evening.

At 1 a.m. I was on deck putting a reef in the main with wind to 20 knots, but by 6 a.m. it was backing off again and clouds were rolling in. Late that afternoon we'd had a couple rainy squalls and I determined we had just crossed our eastbound Hawaii - San Francisco track from July, 2000. It reminded me that nearby was where we endured a two day gale on that passage and I thought the weather today looked a lot different from two years ago. "Synchronicity", according to their roll call check in, was still 150 miles behind us, too far for the VHF. It had been almost three weeks since I'd talked with anyone and it would have been nice to be able to raise them.

The next two days provided about the same - mediocre wind and cloudy with a drizzle now and then - and it was getting even colder! But then, the afternoon of day 25 found me reading in the cockpit in shorts. How changeable this Pacific weather can be. That evening, a weatherfax showed a sizable low west of our position building strength with the probability of developing gale winds. Comparing it's position with ours and our planned track, it looked as if the system would pass safely to the SW of us and we should see some northwesterly winds in a day or so. Early morning of day 26, the wind shifted quite a bit causing a changeover to port tack for the first time in weeks and I started a schedule of weatherfaxes three times a day. By midmorning we were back to starboard tack with a reef in the main and by noon a few rain squalls had blown through and a huge patch of blue sky was visible to the West. We were encountering at least three different swell patterns, making it a little rolly, and indicating some different weather nearby.

At 5:30 that afternoon I put the third reef in the main and estimated the southeast winds were 25 to 30 knots with a building swell. A new weatherfax that night showed the low, with a full gale blowing on it's west side had now changed it's southeasterly course and would head directly east over our position in the next 24 hours! Like I've said before, what can you do when the weather moves at 40 knots and the boat moves at 6? All through that night and the entire next day it rained, and it blew 30 and 35 knots, gusting 40 I'm sure. It was south and southeast, so to try and hold our course anywhere near Newport required staying fairly close to the wind, not the most comfortable tack in these conditions. But constantly pounding, taking the 6' and 8' seas on the port forequarter, "Secret O' Life" went on through it all - and I stayed below, wedged into the dinette, and tried to read and continued to download weatherfaxes that showed me things I really didn't want to know. And I was concerned for "Synchronicity" because from their position I knew they were closer to the "bad side" of the low and were probably encountering seas three times the size of the eight footers we were battling and their course would keep them in the low longer than us, as we had already begun to head more easterly toward Newport. It was while looking at the weatherfaxes that I noticed there was no high pressure in the eastern Pacific at all. I had never seen this before, but the high had completely disappeared over the past 24 hours, to allow this low and another behind it to dip much lower than usual. In fact the high seas and most of the wind from this low would go on in the next few days to hit the coast of California from the Oregon border to Point Conception with high winds and huge surf. It was truly an anomaly, and now I was seeing that the lowest pressure center of the low was going to not only head east with us, it would be curving north and staying right with us at least for another 12 to 18 hours! Oh joy!

So on the morning of day 28 with only 75 miles to go into Newport, after seeing the wind moderate to the low twenties around 0300 hours, allowing us to go back to the second reef for a while, I was once again on deck in the chilling spray, putting in that third reef as we pressed on into six foot seas trying to complete this passage. For several hours it blew 30 and 35 knots, but by noon, the wind was down to 20 and the sky was clearing. By 2 p.m. we were flying full sail with nothing but blue sky and the Oregon coast range mountains in the distance. High tide and slack current would coincide with our estimated arrival time in Newport, so we forged on ahead, making the sea buoy at the Yaquina River entrance at 2230 hours, May 20, just 28 days, 4 hours after hauling the anchor in Zihuatanejo. We had covered 3250 miles in a total time of 676 hours, 611 under sail and 65 motoring. Friends I have talked with about returning from Cabo San Lucas, at the tip of Baja, to southern California speak of 150 or 200 hours of engine time bashing into 30 knot headwinds and that's a 1000 mile trip!

We're now quietly moored in the marina in Newport where the long list of projects will be whittled down over the next few months. I'll spend a majority of my time in Bend, but will return to the boat regularly to prepare for the next passage. Where? I'm not sure - there's no schedule. Maybe back to Mexico for another season or off to Hawaii and the South Pacific and Indonesia. Ecuador and Chile have always held my interest and could be attained by continuing south from Mexico. Check back and see what happens.

Fair Winds - - Terry and Secret O' Life

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