Sequitur

Michael & Edi have headed out on a slow, thorough exploration of the globe.

Vessel Name: Sequitur and Zonder Zorg
Vessel Make/Model: 2007 Hunter 49 and 1908 Wildschut Skûtsje
Hailing Port: Vancouver, Canada
Crew: Michael Walsh & Edi Gelin
About: For our current location click, on Map & Tracking, then on the Google Earth logo.
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13 January 2014
26 April 2013
24 April 2013
27 October 2012 | Harlingen, Friesland
29 September 2012 | Sneek, Netherlands
19 September 2012 | Hoorn, Netherlands
13 September 2012 | Aalsmeer, Netherlands
20 August 2012 | Sequitur: St Augustine, USA - Michael & Edi: Vancouver, Canada - Nieuwe Zorg: Aalsmeer, Netherlands
11 August 2012 | Sequitur: St Augustine, USA - Michael & Edi: Vancouver, Canada - Nieuwe Zorg: Aalsmeer, Netherlands
10 August 2012 | Sequitur: St Augustine, USA - Michael & Edi: Vancouver, Canada - Nieuwe Zorg: Aalsmeer, Netherlands
08 August 2012 | Nieuwe Zorg: Aalmmeer, Michael & Edi: Vancouver
28 July 2012 | Nieuwe Zorg in Aalsmeer - Michael & Edi in Vancouver
26 July 2012 | Nieuwe Zorg in Aalsmeer - Michael & Edi in Volendam
17 July 2012 | Michael & Edi in Leeuwarden, Netherlands
07 July 2012 | Edi & Michael in Vancouver, Sequitur in Saint Augustine
27 June 2012 | Saint Augustine, USA
07 June 2012 | Saint Augustine, Florida, USA
20 May 2012 | Fajardo, Puerto Rico
11 May 2012 | Terre Le Haut, Les Saintes, Guadeloupe
01 May 2012 | Carlisle Bay, Barbados
Recent Blog Posts
13 January 2014

Another New Book Released

I am delighted to announce that my new book: Carefree on the European Canals is now in print and is available on Amazon.com, Amazon.ca [...]

26 April 2013

New Book Released

The proof copy of my new book arrived by courier today. I have approved it and it is now listed on Amazon for pre-order, with a publication date of 30 April. It is a rather large book at 680 pages in an 8.5 by 11 inch format with 315,000 words illustrated by over 2400 colour photos, charts and maps. [...]

24 April 2013

One Year Out of Brazil

One year ago today we sailed Sequitur out of Brazil after enduring more than six weeks in the least-friendly country that we had experienced during our three-year voyage. In the early evening of 24 April 2012 we crossed the line on the chart dividing Brazil from French Guyana and breathed a huge sigh [...]

27 October 2012 | Harlingen, Friesland

Planing a Metamorphosis

We have added a new post to the Zonder Zorg blog at: Planing a Metamorphosis.

29 September 2012 | Sneek, Netherlands

Onward to Friesland

We have arrived in Friesland and have added a new post to the skûtsje's blog at: Onward to Friesland

19 September 2012 | Hoorn, Netherlands

North From Aalsmeer

We have moved northward from Aalsmeer and I have added two new posts: Heading North From Aalsmeer and North From Amsterdam

13 September 2012 | Aalsmeer, Netherlands

Taking Possession

We are back in the Netherlands, and I have added some new posts to the ZonderZorg blog at: Taking Possession and Settling-In and Making Plans

20 August 2012 | Sequitur: St Augustine, USA - Michael & Edi: Vancouver, Canada - Nieuwe Zorg: Aalsmeer, Netherlands

Added a New Website

We have added a new website: Skûtsje ZonderZorg. Zonder zorg in Dutch means without worry. Our intention with the site is to provide a place to share some of the history, geography and culture of the skûtsje as we discover it. We will also use this place to document [...]

11 August 2012 | Sequitur: St Augustine, USA - Michael & Edi: Vancouver, Canada - Nieuwe Zorg: Aalsmeer, Netherlands

Still More Skûtsje History

We continued to attempt to track-down Douwe Albert Visser, who was the owner of Nieuwe Zorg in 1941 when she was re-registered. One of the problems we repeatedly encountered in our online searches was the effect of currently having Albert Visser and two Douwe Vissers as very competitive skûtsje racers, [...]

10 August 2012 | Sequitur: St Augustine, USA - Michael & Edi: Vancouver, Canada - Nieuwe Zorg: Aalsmeer, Netherlands

Some More Skûtsje History

While I was researching the history of Nieuwe Zorg, I finally found her first registration details obscured by an apparent typographical error in a transcribed online spreadsheet. She was listed as having been built in 1901 instead of 1908. I emailed the webmaster of the [...]

Christmas in El Mezteno

27 December 2009 | El Mezteno
Michael
We awoke on Christmas day gently bobbing at anchor in Ensenada de La Ballena. Mid-morning we sat down to a delicious breakfast of toasted sesame bagels with cream cheese, smoked salmon and capers. Then shortly after noon we weighed anchor and headed out of Ensenada de La Ballena to continue our way northward along the west side of Isla Espiritu Santo.

Our destination was El Mezteno, a tiny anchorage just big enough for one boat, and the last one on Espititu Santo. As we passed the mouth of Ensenada del Candeloro, the bay between last night's Ensenada de La Ballena and tonight's El Mezteno, we saw a sloop and a catamaran filling the small two-boat anchorage there. They were the third and fourth boats we had seen at anchor since we left La Paz, and we talked of how crowded the area was becoming, and hoped that El Mezteno would be empty.

As we rounded the headland and could see past the cliffs and into the narrow gut, we were relieved to see that El Mezteno was empty. This is a wonderful little place; a three-quarter mile cut between cliffs and just over a cable wide at its throat, with a small white sand beach at its head across which a vee-shaped valley leads up eastward then bends and disappears northward around the cliff-topped slopes.

We came to 18 metres of chain on the Rocna anchor in 4.5 metres of water on a sand bottom about 2 cables off the beach and little more than half a cable off the cliffs on either side. The water is very clear here, and the bottom is plainly visible through the 5.5 metres at high tide. What a spectacular setting in which to spend Christmas Day!

With the sea so clear, we made water for four hours and the net 250 litres brought our gauge back up from half tank to the full mark. For an hour and a bit in the afternoon we sorted-out and rearranged the food staples in the lockers beneath the dinette and reorganized the drawers and cupboards in the pantry, replenishing as we went the smaller containers in the galley cupboard beside the stove. We are gradually finding the proper places for things.

Edi started another couple of loaves of bread; one a Friesen clove cheese and garlic with fresh basil, the other a sundried tomato, Moroccan olive and fresh basil, using the New York Times no-knead recipe introduced to us by Ray Lipovsky on one of Sequitur's visits to the Lasqueti Mint. This amazingly simple recipe, easily Googled on the net, is ideal for making wonderful artisan loaves at sea or at anchor.



We relaxed, read and soaked-in the wonderful setting, and in the evening sat down to our Christmas dinner of turkey with a Portobello mushroom gravy, couscous and fresh asparagus with mayonnaise accompanied by a bottle of Segura Viudas Cava. We topped-off our evening with our nightly ritual of cups of Rooibos tea and squares of extra dark chocolate.

The night was completely calm, with not a breath of wind to disturb the water's surface, and from overhead, the half moon and star-filled sky lit the canyon walls of our cozy little anchorage. What a wonderful cathedral in which to spend Christmas.

We laid-in for a while on Boxing Day, not the least concerned at missing the jam of line-ups at the blow-out sales. On reflection, we haven't been to a Boxing Day sale for many years, so it was easy for us to be missing another scramble and crush session at the stores. A few scattered cumulus accented an otherwise blue sky, and the still airs left the waters mirrored as we lounged in the cockpit enjoying our breakfast in the 23 degree warmth of mid-morning.



Around mid-day we baked the two loaves that Edi had mixed-up the previous day, and when they were sufficiently cooled, she prepared a picnic of sliced fresh-baked bread, sliced left-over turkey, blue cheese and artichoke hearts. This we loaded into the backpack with thermoses of cold water and we took the dinghy ashore to the white sand beach at the head of the bay.



There is a trail marker just in from the beach, which describes the route up the valley to the outlook over Caleta Partida as being 6 miles long, 4.5 hours duration and of high difficulty. We had only a little over three hours left before sunset, so we decided to take a short-cut. We angled up the boulder slopes toward the cliffs and found a route through the huge blocks, around a soaring buttress, up a shallow gulley and the chimney at its back, and in an hour we were on the top.



A pleasant ten minute's walk across the undulating slabs of the ridge top took us to an overlook down into Caleta Partida, which separates Isla Espiritu Santo from Isla Partida. This narrow channel is less than a metre deep at low tide as it zigzags between low spits that thrust out from each island. There were nine boats at anchor in the caleta, all tucked up into the northern side, probably in an attempt to get some protection from the winds that notoriously blow through the gap, funnelling and magnifying the winter's prevailing northerlies.



With a couple of hours remaining until sunset, we needed to find a route off the ridge. The ridge continued to the east, narrowing as it went, and becoming a complex of huge slabs separated by crevices a metre or so across and often two and three metres deep. This was rimmed on the south by a line of cliffs that appeared to continue unbroken for a mile or more. We backtracked and searched along the rim for a suitable chimney system to enable us to break through the cliffs. Down one chimney and around an airy ledge, we found easier going in big broken blocks that led us in half an hour to the trail in the dry river bed of the valley bottom.

Nearly an hour later, we arrived back at the dinghy on the beach, having scrambled through the overgrown, boulder-strewn shallow canyon of the river bed, through which the trail led. Many of the boulders choking the canyon were room-sized and bigger, some the size of small houses. In retrospect, it would have easier to have followed the rubble slopes and small rock faces above.



We sat on the beach enjoying a late lunch, for which we had worked-up a good appetite. As we ate, we were entertained by the antics of the pelicans diving for needlefish in the shallows. The sun was low in the western sky, so we waited for nice sunset shots, which didn't come; the setting and composition were correct, but the sky was too clear to offer any drama to the event.

We arrived back onboard in the dusk and relaxed until late evening, when I made a six-egg frittata with leftover turkey, green onions, garlic, red, yellow and orange peppers, tomatoes and tarragon. It had been a wonderful Boxing Day.



And on the seventh day we rested. It is Sunday, a week now since we left La Paz to explore Isla Espiritu Santo, and we are so filled with awe for this enchanted place that we need to take a day off to let it all soak in. That, and to allow time for our bodies to recharge from the bursts of rather intense exercise we have had ashore. Today was spa day; sunbathing on deck, manicures and pedicures, and other body work.
Comments
Sequitur and Zonder Zorg's Photos - Main
Some shots of seabirds we have encountered along the way.
9 Photos | 4 Sub-Albums
Created 3 March 2010
Sequitur arrives in Vancouver by truck
15 Photos
Created 7 September 2009
4 Photos
Created 7 September 2009
A few views of Sequitur in port.
9 Photos
Created 6 September 2009

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