It was all of a four hour sail from St Lucia to Martinique and yet we instantly felt we were in a very different part of the Caribbean when we arrived. This has something to do with the fact that Martinique is actually a French overseas "department", which means it is very organised, has a thriving economy and good roads--not to mention an excellent choice of French wines, bread, pastries and cheeses!!
We started our cruise of Martinique in St Anne's, near Marin, at the South end of the island. On our first day ashore we met up with the French Canadian couple (Mary Lou and Claude) who we'd met in Marigot Bay, St Lucia and were invited for drinks on their boat that evening--so an excellent start to the tour! They cruise in this part of the Caribbean each year so were a very useful source of information--particularly around beaches, anchorages, places to snorkel and provisioning. The next day they had organised a hire car for themselves so took us to, what is considered, the best beach in Martinique--Les Salines--which certainly lived up to its reputation--a long stretch of white sands, crystal clear blue and turquoise water with palm trees lining the beach.
Then we spent some time in Marin at the marina, having the engines and generator serviced, the anodes changed (thanks to Tony hiring some scuba diving gear and changing them himself as they're under the boat) and the inverter issue diagnosed and resolved. Whilst we were in the marina, we met up with various people we'd previously met--Robert and Kersten (German couple we'd met in Rodney Bay, St Lucia); a Norwegian couple we'd met in Tobago Cays and Dianne and Graham (a British couple who I'd met on a first aid course last year). They also knew Robert and Kersten, as both couples had taken part in the ARC--so we had everyone round to ours for supper one night and it was a fun evening! We also met some friends of Mike's (Johno, Ellie and Pauline), who were on holiday in Martinique and who took him wind-surfing for the day. What a small world it is!
After Marin, we made our way up the West coast of the island, stopping at some beautiful anchorages, with superb snorkelling. I'm going to have to get myself a book on fish so I can tell you some of the names--these are the ones I do know--star fish of various colours and sizes, stone fish, parrot fish, pipe fish, sea snakes (about 12/18inches and crawl along the bottom), reef sharks (small and harmless), squid, puffer fish, conch, needlefish, anchovies, moray eels (very shy), whelks, sea urchins and green sea turtles (one swam past me, just 3 feet away--so I carefully swam with it for a little while). The places we stopped at were Anse D'Arlet, Grande Anse D'Arlet, Anse Noire, Anse Mitan (worth googling them) and finally St Pierre.
We spent a day in the capital of Martinique at Fort de France and have been left with an over-riding memory of how helpful people were--e.g. we caught a bus to an "out of town" store and apparently should have bought our tickets from a booth before getting on the bus--so the bus driver asked another passenger to go and get them for us--she duly and happily obliged! We also had lunch over the busy and colourful main market, where the proprietor didn't speak any English, so he asked another customer if they would translate--once again, a total stranger happily obliged! I should mention we did try to speak French wherever we could, albeit, "un petit peu"!
Our last stop in Martinique was in St Pierre, which lies at the foot of Mount Pelee volcano. On 8th May 1902 the volcano had a major eruption, killing almost the whole of the 30,000 population--leaving just 2 survivors- a local cobbler and the famous "Cyparis", who was imprisoned for murder in a stone cell! Must have been their lucky day! There are many remains of ruins around the town, some forming garden walls, others sharing walls with new buildlings--a mixture of new and old.
We're on our way to Dominica next--the "Nature Island", so I am very excited as there are lots of trails, waterfalls, hot springs and amazing rainforests to explore. Plus, an added bonus--we'll be there for "Carnival time"--that means Party on!