17/11/2010, Almerimar
They think they're on the way down!
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17/11/2010, Almerimar
The mountain gazelle. How does she do it?!
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17/11/2010, Almerimar
Wednesday
We've been getting a bit bored of sitting around in the marina. That doesn't mean I'm in any hurry to turn our floating caravan back into a boat (although I suspect Neil would be more inclined to) but something different was definitely called for. How about a walk in the hills? Neil had been on the organised walk last Sunday and felt I wouldn't find it too challenging so how about we try the walk he had to abort when the car window broke? It would be fun if Vic and Christine came along and we made a day of it.
So, with packed lunches and suitable walking shoes, we arrived in Celin a short drive away. Studying the map on display in the car park it appeared that basically there were two walks initially following the same path but with a shorter one doubling back in a circular route. We noticed the altitude guidelines but didn't really stress about them as it was clearly a winding course suggesting the climb would be fairly gradual. This was obviously a family area with artificial waterfalls and picnic tables - how difficult could it be?
Perhaps the gunfire should have put us off. Shortly after leaving the site we came across the source - the Guardia Civil doing target practice with live ammunition, not something you would expect on a public footpath. Sensibly we paused and one of the guards came over to try to tell us the area was closed. He seemed to change his mind, however, and the firing stopped for ten minutes while we crossed behind the targets.
Then the climb started. I remember thinking at this point that I was glad we didn't have to come back this way as the angle and loose-stone path would be even more treacherous going down. But the road was visible and looked much easier going for the return journey. Christine led the way, casually coping with the climb like a mountain gazelle. Neil seemed to take it in his stride and Vic appeared to be managing even with a dodgy back.
I slogged along with the realisation that the months of paralysing heat in the summer had taken their toll and I was nowhere near as fit as my not-particularly-fit state last winter. The searing pain in my legs was hard to ignore and needed frequent stops just to let my circulation catch up! But the summit always seemed to be tantalisingly around the next bend but somehow we never seemed to get there. Vic casually wondered at what point we should admit defeat and turn round but was not really listened to. Going back would be tough and we still kept getting glimpses of the road.
After a short stop for sustenance we finally reached a plateau with a sign. Basically we could go down in the direction of the road or down the way we came. Naturally we headed for the road. It was a huge relief to be walking down hill again, using different leg muscles and our spirits were high as we made good progress. We took photos of the peak we had climbed from across the gorge.
The path ended in a roughly ploughed area followed by ....well, no path! Neil and Christine scouted around. Could we have somehow missed the path? Again we could see the road but there was simply no way to get to it. The weather was a bit uncertain - we'd already experienced light showers and time was getting on. Besides, there really didn't seem to be much alternative. We turned round and started heading - upwards again - for the signpost and the route back.
The way up had been slow and tiring, the way down was quicker and I found best accomplished in parts on my behind! My leg muscles were trembling and felt like they wouldn't hold me. I didn't think we'd ever reach the car. But we did. Now Neil keeps asking if I want to do the walk on Sunday.
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13/11/2010, Almerimar
Saturday
We'd booked our tickets to the Alhambra on the internet a couple of days before. Even so the time slot we were allotted to visit the section known as the Nasrid Palaces was 9am. This meant a somewhat early start to face the steep walk up to the entrance. We could have got a bus, of course, they run every few minutes, but that wouldn't be the Lamputt way!
The Alhambra was built to provide shady gardens and capture the mountain breezes to provide a summer palace. This makes it pretty chilly on a November morning! Even so, it was an enchanting experience. We'd told ourselves we wouldn't go overboard on the photographs as we could never capture the feel of the place but it was irresistible. At every turn there was something we just wanted to save as a personal memory. Not only the intricate decorations, seductive courtyards and enticing pools but also the views over the Albaicin and the autumn colours in the gardens had us clicking away. A couple of kittens playing on the Sultana's Patio had me trying to capture how delightful it all was but totally unsuccessfully.
It turned out to be to our advantage to have an early start as, apart from the restricted time in the Nasrid Palaces, we were mostly able to stay ahead of the tour groups. We didn't feel rushed and we'd read up on the history beforehand so we weren't confined by the audio guides nor having to keep our heads in guide books. We didn't even have a decent map so we just followed the suggested routes - there wasn't any real alternative anyway. This was all surprisingly liberating.
Unfortunately there were several areas closed for restoration and maintenance work but that just gives us an excuse to go back in the future.
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13/11/2010, Almerimar
Saturday
Having survived the high winds we decided to take advantage of the improved weather conditions and head into the hills to Granada for a couple of days. The first thing we realised that venturing into the foothills of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada in November meant it was considerably colder than on the coast! So a warning to anyone considering a visit in the next few months - it really is woolly scarf and big coat time!
Granada lives up to all expectations. Photographs, even the professional postcard ones don't do it justice. There is the Alhambra, of course, spectacular both to visit and to see from a distance, but also the old town in the Albaicin area with its tiny, leg-breaking streets which lead to a viewing area much frequented by the city's students, perfect to watch the sunset as the Alhambra with its mountain backdrop turns to rosy tints. The first time we climbed up (yes, we did it twice!) we arrived to the sound of the call to prayer coming from the mosque and sat in the warming sunshine of its beautiful gardens.
There's also a Moroccan area on the edge of the Albaicin with tea houses and hubba bubba pipes, intriguing shops and restaurants that are definitely worth a meal abstaining from alcohol. Not that there is any shortage of bars - you could easily eat for free in Granada as each drink (unusually not necessarily alcoholic) comes with a tapa, some bigger than others it has to be said! We didn't go hungry or dry for that matter!
So if you're planning a trip I urge you not to just do a mad dash around the Alhambra on a day visit. This city is worth spending some time on. I sound like the tourist board!
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08/11/2010, Almerimar
Monday
It was with regret that we said goodbye to Joan and Lee who have returned to the UK. They have been the nearest we have had to travelling companions since we set out and we were delighted when they also decided to overwinter in Almerimar. Although they're enjoying crisp November mornings at the moment we suspect it won't be long before they're ready to come back!
Their leaving was a good excuse for a get-together on Saturday, hosted by Christine and Vic on Isabelle. We all contributed a couple of dishes and drinks and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves in great company giving them a send-off.
The weather here has taken a turn for the worse since they left, however. Chris, the net co-ordinator, said he had recorded wind speeds of around 40 knots this morning which is a Force 8 and the forecast is for worse to come tonight and tomorrow. Gulp! We're moving around quite a bit as it is and everyone is doubling up on lines and re-arranging fenders. Those of us still on board are keeping an eye on the boats of absent friends. Neil has just returned from checking on another boat further out on the pontoons and narrowly missed being hit when a lamp post blew over. It's a bit alarming!
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