Sunday

If we'd only had the pilot guide to go by we would never have come to Kyparissia. However, the harbour defences have been much improved since Rod's time and it makes a good stopping-off point before Pylos. It's also well worth the stop in its own right.

The harbour itself is bleak, graffiti-strewn concrete but it is deep and is now completely enclosed. We also had it to ourselves last night. The 'new' town is a short but uphill walk away, past a couple of quayside tavernas and has butchers, bakers, greengrocers and several small supermarkets. There are also a few hardwear shops off the main road. The bars in the square are overpriced but the pizzeria we went to last night was very good - just stick to the beer and avoid the rosé at any cost!

It was our mistake to leave the side windows open and cushions on deck when we went into town. To be fair, I did say that it looked like it could rain as thunder rumbled in the distance. But as I've said this in my usual optimistic fashion for the last three days neither of us took much notice.

The heavens opened while we were in the supermarket. A downpour of biblical proportions followed as the streets turned into rivers. We made the second mistake of waiting to see if it would ease off. Twenty minutes later it was still no better so, loaded with shopping, we ventured into the torrent, our cotton t-shirts and shorts soaked through and clinging in all the wrong places.

Seren Môr was a pitiful sight. The deck was awash, cushions and books left in the cockpit drenched and the bimini weighed down with pooled rain water, the overflow pouring into the stern cabin's open window. Inside we paddled across the galley floor where the water had collected in the hob, submerging the gas jets. Stripped naked ourselves (no neighbours, remember?) we dealt with it all as best we could. An hour later, with the worst mopped up and liberal doses of emergency chocolate consumed, the sun reappeared and we could sort out 'up top'.

This morning the sun shone again in a misty blue sky and the castle beckoned us to walk through the lovely old section of town. Kyparissia is definitely worth a stop.