Sunday

The anchorage near Lefkas was indeed much fresher and also scarily shallow at times, so not as big as you might first assume. Travelling through the canal at the crack of dawn was a good idea, too - it can be really stifling in there. But at dawn it was cool and calm with just the birds and a few fishermen about, if a bit smelly. The southern entrance had been recently dredged near the sandbank so that made the whole experience much less fraught.

We decided against going straight into Parga after a fairly long day - well, for us anyway. Instead we again chose an anchorage nearby, quiet and with cold, clear water to lower the body temperature as again the thermometers hit 43 degrees.

The next day, and figuring the weekend was changeover time for the flotillas and charter companies, Sunday seemed like a good time to be going into Parga. It is, however, not just a sailing destination but also a general tourist honey pot and the contrast to the quiet anchorage of the night before was mind blowing. The beaches are lined rock-to-rock with regimented rows of sunbeds and brollies while phenomenally loud clubbing music thuds across the bay from the beach bars. Tripper boats take a turn around this bay, packed to the gun hauls, and as close to the anchored yachts as they can get to give their customers a good view of us eating our tuna rolls. Water skiers come tearing out of the harbour along with every type of inflatable you can imagine, being dragged along behind little speed boats using the yachts as a slalom course to see how long the screaming occupants can hang on.

It was all surprisingly enjoyable, to be honest, but it does make me feel old - going for a swim was enough of an adrenaline rush as life and limb was undoubtedly at risk! Just the one night will be enough, though, I should think.