31/07/2012, Vroulias
Wednesday
The wind that had been forecast for so many days finally arrived on Monday. A constant, hot blast of air from the land, it felt like we were sitting in front of a fan heater on full, something we really didn't need with temperatures in the upper thirties. The setting of the sun did little to relieve the stifling atmosphere particularly down in the cabins which seemed to radiate with a dry heat that took the breath away. It was well after 3am before the boat had cooled down enough to sleep below deck. All this and dragging anchors, too, but thankfully not ours.
Our original plan was to head for Kassiopi today but the weather forecast remained changeable although with decreasing winds. Instead we headed for the large open bay of Vroulias just around the corner from Kassiopi to assess just how settled the weather was actually going to be. Much as we love Kassiopi, our experience last year of the harbour becoming untenable has left us very wary of going in there unless conditions are perfect (see 'The Domino Effect' 27/06/2011).
In Vroulias the largely unprotected bay was allowing the wind to come in straight from the sea. Bliss! It was only about a force 4 and it was cool! We're also the only occupied boat in the bay and, so far, there's been no music blaring out from either of the tavernas. As the wind died down the swell became much more apparent. Not just the bow waves from the ferries but a persistent rolling motion from the disturbed channel beyond the bay.
This morning we await weather developments. One forecaster is predicting a force 5 from the east (not a good direction for Kassiopi) so we'll wait to see if that materialises or not before lifting the anchor. There are clouds and a possibility of rain, even a thunderstorm, apparently. In the meantime we'll enjoy the cool and the quiet. The only sounds here at this time of the day (9am) are the waves rolling the stones on the shore and the dog who barks at passing cars.
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29/07/2012, Kalami
Sunday
After spending just the one night in Corfu town we are now back in Kalami. As in every bay we've visited since coming up to the northern Ionian there is a single bar blaring out amplified music into the early hours. I suppose it must attract the customers or they wouldn't do it but it really does wreck the sleepy village atmosphere of these places. Even with the road noise and airport Corfu town was quiet in comparison. Having said that, Kalami remains a pretty, almost idyllic, spot.
After gradually toping up the water tanks, Himself decreed that I could do one bucket load of washing, rinsing only once. So I now have clean underwear and sweet-smelling bed linen. The sheet survived.
The perished gas hose proved to be a red herring and it was actually the cylinder that was leaking. Luckily we had a spare so a normal cooking service has resumed.
After several days of more humane temperatures, even a bit of cloud at times, someone has turned the thermostat up again. We spend our days trying to stay cool with a combination of swimming and ice cream (me) / Mythos (Neil). We swim to the beach (quite an achievement for my exercise-starved limbs) and sit in the shallows with the land based holiday makers.
The force 5's that have been forecast for the last 4 days have failed to materialise but with a force 6 pending for tomorrow we will remain here to sit that out before heading for the settled weather harbour of Kassiopi. Let's hope it really is settled.
And finally, for those wanting to know these things, yes, the exhibitionist in Corfu town was still there, all blue ensign and anchor ball but no knickers. And to prove me wrong and show I shouldn't make sweeping statements, Kalami has revealed (in all his glory) the first Italian nudist we've seen in two years. For some reason, however, he merely swam in the buff (to make sure all the families on the beach had a good view, presumably) and put his swim shorts back on in the cockpit. Oh, yes, we could clearly see all. The Italians don't mind being up close and personal when they anchor. Oops - another sweeping statement.
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as why they have then s loud , I think the plain is to sto people from sleeping so they go off to the bars
27/07/2012, Corfu Town
Friday
With a bit of wind forecast and rapidly running out of water, we left Corfu town and headed for Kalami. The plan was to go via Gouvia marina, top up the fuel tank and, incidentally of course, the water tanks as well. Although Basil Fawlty's sister was happy for us to refuel, she switched off the water hose mid flow to hurry us out of the way for the big mobo and his thirsty tanks. Bet he gets enough water to wash his windows. Thankfully, the excellent White House tavern at Kalami let us fill our jerry cans and top up a bit at a time.
Kalami is one of our favourite anchorages. A beautiful, deep water bay with a blue flag beach, four tavernas, two bars and a few shops (the best bread rolls in Greece), it is also somewhere those in the know come back to for their summer holiday year after year. We'd have been happy to linger there ourselves until the weather settled into something suitable for Kassiopi.
Our plans were thwarted again when I got the occasional whiff of something unpleasant. Naturally, I initially blamed Neil - well, he has developed some rather scuzzy habits this summer - then his towel, crispy and unwashed (a bit like its owner). When neither of them proved to be the source, of that particular pong at least, it finally dawned on me I was smelling gas.
Inspection of the gas bottle revealed a perished rubber hose making cooking that night impossible :) and a return trip to the gas shop in Corfu town a necessity. So here we are again. And very nice it is, too.
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24/07/2012, Corfu Town
Tuesday
There's a hole in my sheet. Worn tissue paper thin, unwashed and decidedly smelly it, never-the-less, remains in situ. For over three years now it has been laundered first thing in the morning, dried in the sun and wind then returned to the bed at night. It has given noble service.
Of course, we should have done something about it sooner. One to wash and one to wear is hardly extravagant. But, you see, it's custom made, fitted to the peculiar shape of a forecabin. Wider at one end than a King Size, narrower than a crib at the other it is beyond my needlework skills (the most loathed subject on the school timetable - well, after PE) to replace myself. Most live-aboards would be pretty disgusted at my ineptitude, most women my age I should think.
So there the holey sheet remains. I will attempt to wash it, most delicately, by hand, when we have a ready supply of water and are enough away from neighbours for the spectacle of it hanging from the Genoa to spare my blushes. Oh, the embarrassment.
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23/07/2012, Corfu Town
Monday
I'm not opposed to the idea of nudism (see "The Nature of Naturism" July 2011). In fact, it makes a lot of sense and quite appeals. I certainly understand why anyone would want to strip off their sweat-soaked clothes and let the breeze dry their skin. Yachties definitely seem to feel the inclination and, perhaps because they have already rid themselves of many of society's conventions, act on the impulse.
Most are reasonably discrete about it. Neighbouring crews may get a quick flash on the bathing ladder or when cockpits (?) drift together but, as a general rule, most keep it under the sunshade or in the sea. I say 'yachties' but what I really mean is Northern Europeans in the Mediterranean - those whose own climates are not usually conducive to removing wet weather gear. Those used to hot summers tend not to indulge. The Italians, for example, might well wear the tightest of budgie smugglers / topless thongs but they don't seem to go the whole hog.
For some reason it seems to be the men who are more forward about letting it all hang out. I blame communal toileting. I don't think I'm a prude and I'm certainly not offended or alarmed by the sight of male genitalia (it's hard to think of a career choice other than prostitution or G.U. surgeon who regularly has to 'deal' with more willies than a nurse) but, come on guys, sometimes it just isn't appropriate.
If you're in an isolated bay, well, ok. If you're in the harbour of a busy Greek town, overlooked by hotels and apartments, with tripper boats weaving between the yachts, could you keep it under wraps? Yes, I'm talking to you - the guy on the British boat parading around the coach roof. Yes, we've all seen it and having a good stretch doesn't improve the sight. Oh,no. Please don't bend down....
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21/07/2012, Corfu Town
Saturday
The plan today was to sample the delights of Benitses. Somehow we didn't think we'd be successful as we approached the unfinished marina. At this time of day (11.30am) surely somebody should be leaving? We should have known, really. With lazy lines fitted and no charge, of course it was going to be filled wall-to-wall with non-moving live-aboards.
On to Corfu Town about five miles away and an excellent anchorage close to the Citadel and a short dinghy ride into town. We didn't want to stay at hot, noisy, hot, crowded, hot Benitses after all.
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