Friday

As a mist blurred the horizon we bid a fond farewell to Jávea and set out on the first stage of our journey overland to Greece. We plan to take about a week to cross through Spain, via France to Italy then by Ferry to Patras and Seren Môr waiting in Messolonghi.

Our first stop is the beautiful Catalan village of Cadaqués (pronounced Kada- kes) on the border with France. Famed for its association with Salvador Dalí, it has attracted artists of all calibres over the last century. We can see why. After a long trek on the motorway (and now the best part of 60 euros lighter in the pocket from toll charges) as the temperature slowly rose to a swelter, the small winding road to Cadaqués came as something of a pleasant surprise with its stunning views towards the sea and glimpses of its white buildings shimmering in the heat.

As we sat sipping our pre-dinner drinks overlooking the bay, warmed by the slowly sinking sun and striking up one of those spontaneous relationships with fellow travellers that happen from time to time even without a boat, we were beginning to think we should have booked to stay longer. We realised we’d probably got it about right this morning when the notorious Tramontane (northerly) wind rolled in over the mountains.

Now, we’ve been in some strong winds. The characteristic ascending howl of a gust now has the ability to chill the blood in a way only a sailor can understand. We don’t have a wind gage with us, of course, so I’m only guessing but I reckon we must have been in a force 8 at least as we attempted to go for a walk this morning. We’d driven the short distance to the nature park on the Cap de Creus, commenting on the similarity of the landscape to Cornwall, a potential photograph at every turn. It’s easy to see how this terrain has been shaped by the elements and difficult to remember that the churning sea is the Mediterranean.

We soon gave up the idea of a cliff side walk. The group of cyclists we passed as we drove to the light house were struggling to stay in control of their bikes. As we parked up the car shook in the gusts and taking photographs proved to be difficult as it became impossible to keep the camera still. Retreat to the relative shelter of Cadaqués seemed like a very good idea.