Cruising Info - Pohnpei
10 January 2007 | Kolonia, Pohnpei, Micronesia
Mauro
Whilst still traveling towards our next major destination, Japan, we made a Christmas stopover on the island of Pohnpei, Micronesia. On the island is the purpose built enclave of Palikir, the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia. The States include Kosrae, Pohnpei, Chuuk (formerly Truk) and Yap.
Whilst visas are not required for most nationalities, the Government does insist that an application is made for a Vessel Entry Permit. This can be sought from:-
FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA
DEPARTMENT OF JUSTICE
DIVISION OF IMMIGRATION & LABOR
PO Box PS-105
Palikir, Pohnpei FM 96941
Tel: 691.320.5844/2605
Fax: 691.320.7250/2234
E-mail: imhq@mail.fm
The best anchorage is at the sheltered end of the harbor of Kolonia, the main town on the island. There is a dinghy dock owned by Rumors Bar & Grill near the anchorage where access to the main road can be had. In addition, a small concrete boat landing which forms part of the Kapingamarangi Village on the eastern side of the anchorage can be used safely. It's a good policy to get the approval of the village elders who are always close by.
Formalities are a shambles. Within 24 hours of our arrival, five other yachts came into the harbor throwing the authorities into a panic as no yacht had visited in the previous six months. After two weeks of skippers tooing and froing to the various offices, we had all finally legally entered. Checking out was equally stressful. There are five authorities that need to clear a vessel in (Customs, Immigration, Port Authority, EPA and Agriculture). Three authorities clear you out - Port Authority (US$65 fee for port dues), Customs and Immigration.
Provisioning was also an uphill battle, for even though there's plenty of canned and frozen US products there is a severe shortage of fresh vegetables and fruit. Much of this latter type of produce is imported in refrigerated containers and by the look and taste of it, does not travel well. Meats are either freezer burnt or show signs of defrosting and re-freezing.
All fuels are available in Kolonia. A very limited supply of marine repair products is also available. Best places to visit are Ace Hardware (see Mike Collins) and True Value.
Whilst the port is a main unloading center for Taiwanese and Korean fishing vessels, it offers little in the way of repair facilities or services for the visiting yacht.
Peter Shirkey of Mangrove Marine, a small business in a shed opposite the Ioshie Supermarket, can do welding, TIG & MIG, refrigeration, mechanical and diesel repairs. Tel: 691 920 2574
During our visit only one ATM machine was working, located at the Bank of Hawaii's branch.
Internet services are widely available throughout Kolonia including the Pohnpei Public Library (5/6 stations at US$2/hour), FSM Telekom (4 stations at US$4/hour), Computer Island (12 stations at US$4/hour) and WiFi in the anchorage itself via a prepaid card available through FSM Telekom.
FedEx, DHL and TNT Couriers operate into this town, although our experience was that DHL was the most efficient.
The only saving grace we discovered was the Village Hotel where a relatively decent meal can be had and from which one can arrange an extremely enjoyable visit to spectacular waterfalls and a walking and kayaking exploration of the ancient ruins of Nan Madol. The latter can be enjoyed after an excellent lunch prepared by the hotel on an idyllic little sand island inside the reef which surrounds Pohnpei Island.
After 20 years of cruising we normally accept the vagaries of various authorities and destinations. We simply do not like to be negative, but Pohnpei has so little going for it that we find it hard to recommend a stopover here other than in an emergency.
For Photos see : Pohnpei in the Gallery section