Delightful Lady

DELIGHTFUL LADY

Who: Tony & Mady Sharp
Port: Auckland
19 July 2012 | Turkey
05 December 2011 | Kekova Roads
26 September 2011 | Skopea Limani
15 September 2011 | Marmaris
11 September 2011 | Kos Town habour
03 September 2011 | Milos
03 September 2011 | Naxos
29 August 2011 | Dhenoussa
29 August 2011 | Ormos Lipso
31 December 1969 | Nisyros

Marmaris to Ayvalik 2012

19 July 2012 | Turkey
At 0930 on 16th June 2012, after a 4 week pre-season prep while waiting for Mady to finish her work assignment in Auckland, we set sail from Marmaris Yacht Marina. The work while on the hard and once back afloat had gone well and Delightful Lady was looking bright and shiney and no doubt as eager to start the season as we were.

We had signed on a new shipmate, Basil, who we had bought at the Marmaris market. He promised to bring a certain flavour to our trip, at least we hoped to some of our meals! Unfortunately we discovered, after a couple of hours that our other crew member 'Dino' (our autopilot) was AWOL so we diverted to Bozburun, to see if we could get him back to work. It wasn't until Datca, a day later, that I found the fuse that had blown and we had a full crew compliment again.

Our plan this year was to work our way north up the Turkish Coast to Ayvalik, Exit there and enter Greece in Mytilini on the island of Lesvos. We had been as far as Bodrum before so our first night in new territory saw us in the pretty bay of Gumasluk. The bay was full of boats from nearby marinas but we found a spot opposite Mimoza Taverna a pretty place that unfortunately proved later that night to be very inconsiderate as they played loud music right through the night until dawn. Mady used our new drybag for the first time, when she swam ashore for fresh bread.

The next day we started our northerly journey with Paradise Bay in Kazili Limani our night's anchorage. The bay is delightful but caution is needed as you thread your way through the numerous fish farms, setnets and long lines to get to it. After a quiet night we made for Altinkum and D. Marina as we wanted to visit Ephesus and a couple of other ancient sites. We wanted the yacht to be safe while we were away. The marina is modern and very nice with helpful staff and excellent facilities. We explored the town which has grown from a small village to a sprawling holiday city in a few short years. The ever efficient Turks have quickly built mostly horrible square boxy buildings with a characterless town as a result.

The next day we hired a car and drove to Ephesus via Kusadasi. The ancient site, considered the best in Turkey is magnificent. You can really get a feel for what life was like in Roman times. We also saw a lovely restored house/chapel supposedly occupied by Mary at the end of her life after she escaped Jeruselum after the death of Jesus. An Italian nun had a “vision” of the place and pointed religion authorities to the spot where the ruin of a house was discovered in the bush covered hills above Ephesus. It has become a place of pilgrimage of course even if the whole story seems a little dubious. Later in the afternoon on the way back to the boat we stopped at Priene and Miletos, 2 other sites containing temples and theatres of note. The day was long, hot, tiring and very rewarding. The next day we did nearly 60 miles, saw dophins and had a great 3 hour sail. We zig zagged through the narrow passage between Samos and the Turkish coast (less then a mile wide) and then sailed most of the way across Kusadasi Korfezi to Kormen Adasi. The following morning saw us doing a quick hop up to Sarpdere Limani where we spent the afternoon relaxing and swimming in the clear water of this nice bay. Saw our first turtle today. Fish farms are numerous again. Some spoiling nice anchorages!

We passed through the passage between Khios and the mainland and by-passed Cesme for a night anchorage on the small Island of Kara Ada. Day trip boats were numerous but left us to a peaceful night in good shelter. We had not spent many hours sailing (less than 10%) but had expected this as making your way north against the prevailing Meltimi is not easy in the summer.

On our 10th day of the cruise, we started before 6.00am and motored 48 miles to Bademli Limani. We anchored in the lagoon like area between 2 islands in beautiful clear water and were soon snorkling. The forecast said strong Meltimi for that night and the next day so ideal as it was, we decided to carry on another 3 hours to Ayvalik Limani. This large sheltered harbour is called the 'Lake' which sounded good to us as a place to shelter. We anchored off Alibey finally after an 11 hour day. We saw 2 lots of dophins, the second lot of 8 came and played with us for several minutes. The anchor down in mud and weed was a blessing as the wind rose in the evening. After a quick trip ashore the next day, we decided to seek better shelter so moved across to Camlik Koyu where we found more shelter and more nice mud to anchor in. We also found another kiwi boat and an Aussi boat as well. Peter and Cathy the Kiwis from Wave Runner asked us over for drinks and we ended up staying for dinner. Di and Bernie the Aussie's from First Light III who were friends of Peter and Cathy, joined us and we had a great night. I shall think of it as ANZAC Cove. The next day we knew was market day in Ayvalik Town so we went ashore and caught the Dolmus around to town. The bus was stopped at a police road block and all the locals ID's checked. We had heard that the Turks were trying to clamp down on the overstayer problem they have and this was obviously part of it.

Ayvalik Market occupies many streets of the old town and is centred around a large square where the fruit and vege market is situated. We had great fun there, bought some great food and returned to D.L. Around 2.00pm. Some of the gusts in our anchorage were around 30 knots but we were very secure and slept well.

The next morning with the Meltimi abating but still quite breezy, we moved to Mosko Bay which offered clear water for a swim in a nice setting. Forecast still wasn't good so after an hour or so we decided to go back around to Ayvalik, clear out from Turkey and make the crossing to Lesvos. We anchored off the town while I went and did the check out formalities. When I returned a catamaran was moored just astern of us and Mady was chatting to the people. I then saw that, like us, a Kiwi flag flew from the spreaders! Gavin and Lisa are from Tairua and Mady had met them briefly in Auckland during the Volvo Ocean Race stop-over. They were checking out and going to Lesvos like us. Now what are the odds of that!

We motorsailed across to Lesvos with plans to meet the others later for drinks. Dolphins escorted us some of the way. We were signaled to pull into the the Customs quay as we entered Mytilini harbour and I went off to do the check-in formalities. An hour and a half later, and having had my fill of formalities for one day, we were safely tied up stern-to the town quay. The place was busy and noisy but we were in Greece and had the island to explore over the following days. It was the 29th June, 13 days and 61 engine hours after leaving Marmaris. The Eastern Sporades and Dodocanese Greek Islands and the downwind sail back to base await us.
Comments
Vessel Name: Delightful Lady
Vessel Make/Model: Bavaria 42
Hailing Port: Auckland
Crew: Tony & Mady Sharp
About: We hail from Auckland, New Zealand and return there each southern summer for a few months to catch up with family and friends, work and promote our Med Yacht Share business. We started our adventure in 2010 with the purchase of our yacht in Croatia.
Extra: We operate Sharp Yachting which is a yacht share ownership system based in the beautiful Mediterranean.

DELIGHTFUL LADY

Who: Tony & Mady Sharp
Port: Auckland