I'm sitting in the Royal Hotel, Oban, waiting for Jan, Chris and Jinks to arrive. Last night we moored in Oban, after a week of sunshine and light winds. From Islay we motored up to Jura, picked up a mooring after a fruitless attempt at fishing. Dave, your record of no fish is under threat. I relaxed so much I thought it was Tuesday, not Wednesday and had to hastily re-arrange the schedule. We planned to sail up the Sound of Jura to Croabh Haven, but realised we would miss the tidal gate so adjusted our course to Crinan, famed for its canal. This short stretch of canal cuts across the neck of the Kintyre peninsular, and is extremely popular. We dined in the fish restaurant of the Crinan Hotel and set off early on Friday to catch the tide up the Sound of Ard Luing. Even in a glassy, calm sea there were myriad whirlpools, threatening the innocent yachtsman. We avoided being sucked into the dreaded Gulf of Corryvreckan, saw seals, porpoises, gannets and more. After Fladda lighthouse it all settled down and we dropped anchor for lunch in the delightful Puilladobrhan, easier on the eye than the tongue. The wind finally kicked in and the crew finished their week with a sail up to Oban. In the evening we hauled up to MacCraig's Tower, a granite twentieth century coliseum. Today I waved off the crew and prepared for another week of sun and sea. It's a hard life.