Outer Hebrides, Bottom to Top
22 June 2013 | Stornoway
Rod
I'm in the public library at Stornoway. We arrived here on Thursday evening after a great sail up from Loch Maddy in a force 5. The wind was fair and we started under genoa and set the main of Loch Tarbert. The highlight of the week was on Sunday. We sailed to Canna, the most westerly of the Small Isles, tucked under the mountains of Rum. It was one of the most beautiful harbours I've ever visited. The sun was warm, the seals were basking on the rocks as we entered. We paid our mooring dues in the tiny community shop where no one serves, it's all down to the honesty box. We ate in a tiny cafe overlooking the harbour and then walked to the headland to search for puffins returning to their nests. We saw nine but the oyster catchers wheeled overhead to warn off their site. At 9 pm the sun still shine brightly.
On Monday, in view of an uncertain forecast we decided to forego Loch Harport on Skye and sailed across the Minch to Lochboisdale on the tip,of South Uiste. The weather was broody the next day when we continued up the coast to Loch Maddy, entering the harbour in a sharp squall with near zero visibility. We picked up a buoy near the ferry terminal and sat it out that day. On Wednesday we got ashore, did the tin village and ate on board again. On the Thursday the weather improved so we decided to run for Stornoway, which is delightful. The seals were there to greet us, circling the fishing boats on the lookout for a takeaway. This morning Geoff, Mike and Alan departed on the 7 o'clock ferry to Ullerpool to start their long journey home. Tonight Paul, Bob and Steve arrive. The determination of my crew to fight their way up to these remote islands is humbling. Thanks to all thus far. Shearwater continues to sail well. Next weekend, if I'm lucky, we'll get to Stromness, my Northern turning mark.