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Ensenada De Los MuertosCatherine
03/29/2011, Ensenada de Los Muertos
Ensenada de los Muertos has a few surprises. After nearly a month in wild places with only a few stops in marinas it took us by surprise to stumble onto, of all things in this remote bay, a model train museum. The entire area is slated for development with a golf course and a hotel already established. Thereís an open air restaurant on the opposite side of the harbor with a dingy dock nearby. The hotel is exquisitely designed with pools, artwork, fountains and the unexpected train museum on the mezzanine of the restaurant. The hotel and grounds are laid out with so much thought given to the details of comfort and beauty that it is simply stunning. Roads, lagoons, cliff side homes and shopping centers are planned, but for now it is economically stalled.
World record on Si BonSteve
03/27/2011, Ensenada de Los Muertos
We finally got out of Bahia Los Frailes yesterday, we had planned to spend 2-3 days and ended up being there a week, we are now anchored in a medium sized cove called Ensenada de Los Muertos, which translates to Cove of the dead. On our way here we trolled a fishing line, as we have most of the time since leaving Ensenada. Last night we all marveled at the fact that despite all of the time we've had a line in the water, we still have not caught a fish, and we are pretty sure that that is some kind of world record for not catching fish. You have to be aware that we are currently in some of the best fishing grounds in the world, so we feel that we are now experts at not catching fish, we have not caught some of the largest marlin ever to be not caught in these waters, we have also not caught very large yellowtail, dorado, sailfish and just about any other kind of fish here. We have not caught fish with every type of lure, jig and cedar plug you can imagine, we were given some squid by a local fisherman who assured us we would catch fish with it...but still no fish, we've trolled in Si Bon, we've trolled in the dinghy, we've fished off a dock and of the stern of Si Bon at anchor...and still we've not caught a fish, and in fact we are so damm good at not catching fish that we haven't even had a nibble, or strike or whatever it's called. We decided last night that not catching fish is actually a lot more fun than catching fish, we can still play out the line, open a can of beer and turn on some country music and we can still BS about large fish we haven't caught, but we don't get all tired out pulling in some hapless fish, we don't get fish blood all over our boat and our fishing equipment will last forever without the stress of actually catching a fish, plus our refrigerator doesn't smell all fishy. Well I gotta go now I heard the fish aren't bitting this morning so I'm dropping in a line, opening up a brewski, and turning on some Tim McGraw.
03/24/2011, Bahia Los Frailes
We're still here waiting out the norther, the wind was slightly calmer yesterday and the temperature warmed back up. We may be able to get going tomorrow, we'll see, we don't expect to many people to feel sorry for us being "stuck" in this beautiful place, besides we really don't have to be anywhere until April 3 when I pick up Shaybo at the La Paz airport...it will be really good to see her again and give her a big hug. Yesterday Peter and I walked to the Regional House restaurant, a nice little place in the middle of nowhere, the Bartender was a guy from San Diego named Pablo, he came down here on vacation and was asked to watch the restaurant for a few days while the owner went to take care of some medical condition, that was 5 weeks ago and Pablo is really pissed. We also walked around the camp ground that is on the beach and met some of the people camped out here, most are Canadian.
Good decisionSteve/sorta calm for now
03/23/2011, bahia Los Frailes
Los Frailes is a medium sized bay which "offers good protection from north winds", yesterday we had sustained winds of 15-20 knots and wind chop of a foot or so in this well protected bay. As we gazed out beyond the protection of the point into the Sea of Cortez, it resembled a raging river, Peter and I put it in the range of some of the class 4 rapids that we have both run on rafts. The current weather guess is calling for this to last until Saturday.
Change of plansSteve/windy
03/22/2011, Bahia Los Frailes
I checked the weather this morning and the guess was calling for 10-15 knot wind going up to our next anchorage, it would be on our nose but didn't look like anything we couldn't handle. As I was down below getting ready, some local dude who I had met on the beach yesterday, paddles up in his fishing kayak and tells us that he just came from around the point and we might want to wait a day or so, I told him I had checked the weather and it looked OK, to which he responded " oh, you checked the weather and everything looked good? then you should be fine". I think he was probably thinking "good luck asshole, I've been camped out on this beach for the past ten years, but your stupid weather guesser knows more than me" But instead he gave us some bait for fishing and with a friendly smile paddled away. About that same time a large catamaran, Santosha, that had been anchored next to us, and left in the early morning hours pulls back into the bay and drops their hook. Peter and I rowed over to Santosha and ask them if they had headed north, to which they responded "yes, and don't bother"
03/21/2011, Los Frailes
As any fisherman (which none of us are), will tell you there is a reason it's called fishing, not catching. We've been trying our hand at fishing since we left Ensenada, and so far the only thing we've caught is a nice sized piece of kelp and a small piece of sea grass. Last night as Catherine was getting ready to prepare another gourmet meal for us, Peter and I decided to take the dink out and troll around the bay, we grabbed a couple of brewskis and headed out. Peter played out the line and we made a little wager, if he caught a fish I would do the dishes, if he didn't, he would do them. As we slowly motored around this beautiful bay, we looked down and saw phosphorescences, which look like tiny little lights, shooting out of the dinghy wake, we suddenly forgot all about the fishing as we spaced out at this amazing, tinkerbell sorta look, we were completely memorized by this VERY cool sight.
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