I spent a pleasant few days anchored in Trapani catching up on some maintenance on board and making a visit to the supermarket for yet more food. It is no wonder that I am a rotund little sailor.
One morning after consulting the sky, casting the runes and watching the behaviour of seagulls, I decided that the omens were good to leave for Cagliari, Sardinia. Navtex weather forecasts seem to be very intermittent lately for some reason.
So once more ‘Salara’ headed westwards with a helpful NE breeze to push her clear of the Egadi Islands. Throughout the day the breeze backed to the NW and slowly died completely, at midnight ‘Salara’ was motoring over a calm sea in windless conditions. All the next day she motor sailed in a fitful northerly breeze and in the evening, when it became clear that she would not be able to reach Cagliari before dark I altered course and put into the anchorage at Villasimius on the SE corner of Sardinia. ‘Salara’ had arrived in Sardinia and I was happy to switch the engine off, have a meal and go to sleep.
In the morning I decided to stay at anchor as Villasimius is a very pleasant place and if the weather turns nasty there is a handy marina to go and hide in.
In fact I stayed for three nights just relaxing on board and having the occasional swim to cool off during the heat of the day. However Cagliari beckoned as I needed more fuel and yet another visit to a supermarket. I lifted the anchor pointed her in the right direction and she made the short trip mostly under sail.
I dropped the sails in the outer harbour at Cagliari and booked a berth for one night at the Marina San Elmo, high season therefore a high price of 55 euros. I rushed around that evening finding an ATM to replenish my cash supply and going to the
supermarket. In the morning I did another supermarket trip, topped up with fresh water and left the berth. ‘Salara’ needed diesel so I called at the fuel berth and filled the main tank and spare containers (32 gallons altogether at a cost of 303 euros)
I was pleased as we set off along the coast that ‘Salara’ could sail, being a frugal old pensioner I was still smarting from the money I had just spent in Cagliari.
The passage plan was a bit vague, ‘Salara’ was headed for Calasetta but as she could not possibly reach there before dark I would seek out a suitable anchorage to spend the night in as we travelled. ‘Salara’ made good time along the coast and after rounding Capo Spartivento put into Porto Malfatano and anchored in East Cove for the night. I sat in the cockpit and watched the sun go down while drinking a cold beer. What a delightful place.
I had fully intended to push on to Calasetta in the morning but as usual decided to stay, my weak excuse being that I needed to strip down and lubricate both sheet winches. So I stayed another night.
At breakfast the next morning I reasoned that it would be a shame to leave here without having a look around the corner into the next bay. So I lifted the anchor and obediently ’Salara’ trundled round there and anchored in five metres of clear water over a sandy bottom. We just had to stay for another night.
Early the next morning ’Salara’ once more headed out to sea the proposed destination being Mahon, Menorca in The Balearics just over 200 miles away. There was no wind as ’Salara’ motored west at a steady 5 knots but I was confident that she would be blessed with some in a few hours. When it did come it was smack on her nose and soon it became apparent that rather than struggle onward using expensive fuel I should head her for Calasetta. I put her on a northerly course switched off the engine and sailed her towards the channel between the islands of San Antioco and San Pietro. As ’Salara’ entered the channel I noticed some yachts anchored on the SE corner of San Pietro. ’That’s for us’ I said, altered course to sail straight in and anchored perfectly under sail in a slot between some other yachts. I must have over indulged on some confidence drug that day but I did have the engine running in case of a slip-up.
‘Salara’ was in yet another lovely anchorage but in the morning, as soon as the breeze arrived I lifted the anchor, under sail again to keep up the pretence that I’m an expert. Then we were once more on our way with the prospect of two nights at sea before reaching Mahon.
‘Salara’ was able to sail for all of the first day in a light NW breeze although she was a little south of her ideal course line.
On the second day the wind virtually deserted us and so it was once more engine on and apart from a short period during the late afternoon when ’Salara’ was able to sail she motor sailed all day and throughout the next night.
I never sleep when the engine is running as I am concerned about mechanical failure or even fire, so I was beginning to get very tired. If the yacht is sailing I am happy to have short naps on a regular basis which keeps me on form.
I had maintained the passage plan speed and ’Salara’ arrived at Mahon an hour after dawn. She entered harbour and anchored amongst some other yachts in the Cala Teulera. I tidied up on deck, put the sail covers on and had breakfast. ’Salara was now back in Spanish waters.
I was just about to go for a sleep when a harbour launch arrived and told all the yachts to leave and to find official berths on the pontoons in the main harbour. This is apparently because Cala Teulera is designated as an overflow anchorage when all pontoon berths are occupied. In other words ’Welcome to Mahon and give us your money’. So I ended up putting ’Salara’ in the cheapest berth available (23 euros) on a pontoon at the mouth of Cala Llonga severely effected by the wash from harbour traffic and by swell caused by the SE wind that had piped up since her arrival. I had to rig extra warps to eliminate the snatch on the mooring lines before I could have that long awaited sleep.

Picture: Porto Malfatano. Note dark smudge of the rocky shallows.