We finally tore ourselves away from Fulanga in the Southern Lau group. It was a beautiful spot and the group of boats that were there made it especially fun. Our first true village experience in Fiji was very positive overall and we got to know one of the teacher's & his wife pretty well. We had several visits together, they came to the boat one day, we went to their house for tea and Jon helped fix their laptop. We also had 4 of the local kids over to our boat for a visit which was a first for us and we were amazed at how polite, calm and respectful the Fijian kids are. It is really touching. I wish they knew more English so we could converse more. We took a group hike one day up to a viewpoint and got a real feel for the lagoon as we see if from pictures in the cruising guides. We also visited some caves that day, one of which had some leftover bones from the days of cannibalism, all green with age. After a few hours in the village, we'd come back to the "oasis", our nickname for the boat, take a shower and then mull over all that we experienced that day. It is a totally different way of life here, full of contrasts, and it takes some time to process it all.
We spent several days over on the reef anchorage which is one of the prettiest anchorages we've ever been to. It felt very south Pacific with little rock island dumplings in a pool of clear water- every shade of blue. There was a great long beach to walk and I found my first nautilus shell. I've since found another one, so Liz, your shell collection is growing! We did a lot of snorkeling which was nice but overall, not as nice as we were expecting. I fear that the world's reefs are on a downturn. The Chinese seem to be on most island groups we've visited in the Pacific, helping the locals collect all the sea cucumbers they can find. They pay them a few dollars for each one and then they're dried, roasted & shipped back to Asia to be eaten or used as a flavor enhancer in soups, etc. Meanwhile, the reef loses these creatures that help so much to balance it, and the locals get a few fast bucks only to be left with reefs that are now stripped of their filter feeders. And sadly, these local young men are doing bounce dives to more than 150 feet now (we talked with one of the divers on Fulanga) to get them- and getting decompression illness as a result. There is only one chamber here in Fiji and poor inter island transportation to get there so these men are becoming very sick & some paralyzed. And to think that most of these island villages have a subsistence way of life, depending on the reef for their food makes it a crime to damage it so. We often wonder at what point people develop a conscience? Oh and shark finning continues too.
We drift dove the pass several times only one of them with scuba. The pass was subject to swift currents which made diving logistically challenging since you need a dinghy at both ends in order to get in, do the dive and have a ride at the end but since you can't know where you'll surface, you need a manned dinghy at the end to boot. One day we all went out to dive and were just figuring out who would do what when a couple got set to the side of the pass and then capsized by a breaking wave in their dinghy! It was actually a very dangerous situation and we aborted the dive to essentially save life & gear. On another day, we decided to install a mooring to facilitate our diving and this took up so much time that we missed the tide switch. We did the dive anyway but the current was roaring in by that point and I got ill on the dive from the current, mask squeeze and the changes in depth. Not going to do that again! On the last night there, we had a dinghy raft-up for happy hour where we all tied our dinghies together in the shallows off the beach and then passed hors d'oevres until after sunset. We toasted our friendships and the cruising family. We agreed that we're not out here for the sailing, but for moments like this.
But, it was time to move on & see someplace new. Not to mention, this cruising season is flying by. We had to say goodbye to Jan & Rich on Slip Away for now since we're headed different directions. Plus, they couldn't leave just yet since they have beer brewing at the moment and it mustn't be disturbed! They measure the specific gravity each day so they know when it can be bottled. Then they'll be flush with homemade brew for several weeks. We got to share their last batch with them- a stout- and it was delicious!
We sailed overnight directly to the Great Astrolabe Reef island group of Fiji. It was named after a French exploring ship that wrecked here years ago. Along the way, we crossed back over the meridian of 180 degrees (Fiji straddles the meridian) and once again, the charting software & GPS went haywire, changing our plotted course to go around the world, requiring that it be shut down & restarted. The last time we crossed the meridian, we ended up plotted out in Bolivia! Doesn't boost your confidence in chart plotters! So, the reef is supposedly beautiful here, the diving good and there are several high islands to explore. The wind has piped up so we haven't been able to do any diving yet but we're really enjoying another village scene on the western side of Ono island at an anchorage called Madre. We did our sevusevu without a hitch on Sunday afternoon but did get persuaded to attend another all Fijian church service. Our church is the outdoors & the natural beauty around us but you can't blame these people for their faith. Plus it was productive in that we managed to find out about a trail that we could hike the next day. The village is full of friendly souls and is unique in that it has a stream running though the center & 2 pedestrian bridges that connect the homes on each side. We met the nurse and saw the dispensary which had nothing in it other than a few faded posters with health info & a mostly empty box of gloves.
Yesterday was a great all day hike with friends. There were 8 of us and we set out with the usual village guide. No matter what you're doing in the village, there is always someone who meets you on the beach and then you just seem to get handed off to one person after another. At first we thought we were being monitored but then quickly realized that they are just being polite- they're trying to make sure you are taken care of. You are an honored guest in their village and you are treated as such even though you may just want your independence. But alas, we were finally set free at the outskirts and we carried on across the island on a really pretty trail to another village. There, we were welcomed and given coconuts to drink. Then they told us about how the trail continued on to a small resort so onward we went. When we got there, the wonderful owner brought us inside and gave us a complimentary beer. We sat and chatted for an hour on plush couches among lovely interior decorations. They had a parrot who could say lots of words including rock-n-roll. Then, all of us hit the trail again to start heading back. We were greeted by smiling Fijian kids, local villagers using the trail to carry food from their plantations and more parrots in the treetops. Of course we had a dog who followed us and stole our hearts. It got to eat cheese & salami and enjoyed a good amount of patting as well. We found out later it's name was Striker and it was good friends with another dog called Mildew- for it's coloring! When we arrived back at the village where we're anchored, a lovely lady named Melina invited us all into her house for tea & cakes. All 8 of us sat down on the mat in her humble home for some homemade lemon tea. You can't get this sort of treatment just anywhere.
And today Jon & I went ashore hoping to do another hike up to some cliffs that rise above the anchorage. For this one, we were glad to be met on the shore by a girl named Sofa who showed us the way. We reached a great view of the anchorage, then continued on to her family's plantation on the SE side of the island. We chatted as much as we could along the way and enjoyed the peaceful woods. When we got back to her house, her mom insisted we take some the bok choy she was growing in the garden and a few papayas. We've been living on canned vegetables for several days now since we're completely out of produce so this was a real gift. We came back to the boat to get ready for a planned traditional Fijian meal that we were participating in as a fundraiser for the church. I brought in a bagful of various items off the boat as a thank you for Sofa & her mom Kara. The Fijians generally won't ask you for anything, but they do appreciate a swap and we are happy to do it when we can. We're all carrying extra food items for swapping as well as whatever we have to give off of our boats that might be of help. Since Jon & I have one of the smaller boats overall, we don't have room to carry much extra but we do find ourselves scrounging up things here & there.
The dinner was really fun. It isn't about comfort since none of us are "conditioned" enough to sit on a mat for any length of time. The meal was nicely prepared and included roast pork, cassava, various parts of the taro plant cooked different ways, a curry dish, followed by lemon tea & cakes for dessert. We all donated cash in return. It was fun to look around the room and see all of us together in our colorful clothes. We do wish that the Fijians would forget their customs and sit on down with us for the meal but they won't- the custom is that we eat first, then they eat afterward. And therein is more to think about. We want to get a glimpse of what their life is like unchanged by western ways but at the same time we're seeing things that we think would be better if they adopted our way of thinking. But the fact of the matter is that things ARE already rapidly changing and we're part of it. Every boat that comes here is having an influence. For once though, we feel like we're not too late to get the best of it.
06/27/2013, Fulanga, Southern Lau Group
I feel like it's been awhile since I've written anything. Now I guess I'll make up for it. I hope everyone is well and having a good summer. We do miss the New England summer and all the fun things to do at that time of year. The update on the generator pump is that it became evident that the original pump we ordered was never going to actually materialize, we could tell- and sure enough we've gotten no call or email as promised from the chandlery at Copra Shed. So we ordered one from the USA and hope it arrives here before we leave Fiji. We'd given the old pump to an electrician who thought he could fix it but instead, he returned it to Jon is worse shape than before. But unlike dad's chainsaw, we didn't have to pay for it to come back to us in pieces. So Jon spent part of 2 days using fiberglass, solder, a drill & a lot of ingenuity and got the darn thing working again! It leaks like a sieve since the seal is bad but we are able to use it for the short term. He also fixed the camera case using PVC cement, borrowed from another cruiser. So if you get a crack in your polycarbonate underwater camera case, you can use the 2 part PVC cement to fix it. We haven't taken it scuba diving yet since there's been no opportunity but for snorkeling it has been leak free. It is a desperate feeling that you just can't get anything you need in these faraway places. Meanwhile something breaks nearly every day, I kid you not. It might just be a lightbulb that stops working due to corrosion or the brushes in the autopilot need replacing when we're underway or the discovery that the mouthpieces on our scuba regulators are falling apart (and we have no spare) or the outboard is puffing extra smoke or the alternator stops putting out power due to a loose ground wire, but it's always something every day and it takes time & worry to troubleshoot. Yesterday, Jon's sunglasses crumbled but this is the spare pair since the prescription pair apparently fell off somewhere on the day we did the waterfall hike. You can use the soldering iron to melt plastics together and if you need more plastic such as he did for the coffee maker, you just melt some of a plastic fork or something similar! So each day, I say to Jon: "Good job fixing the (whatever it is that broke today) since he has been Mr Handy Man this trip more than ever. We've been on this Evergreen for nearly 14 years now (our first boat was a 31 foot Cape Dory also named Evergreen) and what still feels like new isn't anymore even though we're constantly replacing old things with new!
I had put some pictures on Picasa and linked a couple onto the beginnings of a blog entry since I knew we'd have no internet for pictures in the Lau Group of Fiji. Did you know that any picture on Sailblogs should be clickable and take you to Picasa where we have a bunch more? Once on Picasa you can arrow through the pictures in the album attached to that Sailblogs entry or you can choose one of the other albums from different places we've visited. We haven't figured out how to make it easy to go from Picasa to Sailblogs, only Sailblogs to Picasa.
We spent a couple of days at a windy anchorage at the top of the island of Taveuni since we wanted to do some hiking with Vaughn & Sharon on Reality & Richard and Ali on Vulcan Spirit. So we rented a taxi for the day starting at 7am in order to get to the parks at the tip of the island. It was $90 Fijian for the day which is $45US and we divided this number between the 3 couples. So as you can see, it is affordable to do things here! There was a bakery across the street and we all planned to get some treats there for the day, having checked the day before to be sure they'd be open. But true to island style, they were open, but there were no treats to be had since no one had made anything. I continue to get hit over the head with this kind of thing. You just can't hope for these things to be like it is back home or anywhere close to it. Throw away your grocery list too while you're at it.
We hiked on 2 lovely trails that day that allowed us to see 5 beautiful waterfalls. My favorite waterfall was the last one since it was set up in the distance from the trail through a beautiful slot in the rocks and the swim up was filled with fish- I had brought my mask. We all swam at the waterfalls and then we'd get out and hike on to the next one. The trails were so carefully groomed and planted it was amazing. Colorful tropical foliage everywhere. The second trail was the popular Lavena Coastal Walk which paralleled the beach for a few kilometers, then turned and headed up a river to my favorite waterfall. Along the way, we passed 2 small Fijian villages with friendly kids and a very subsistence way of life. The kids use the trail to get to & from school and they really enjoyed practicing their English with us. The look so cute in their uniforms and you can't take enough pictures of them- they want their picture taken and then to see it on the camera screen. I have noticed though that we make babies cry. We do look different and they are just plain scared! The drive over to the parks was about 1 ½ hours on a bumpy dirt road, passing lots of farmland and locals tending their plots. They primarily grow coconuts, cassava, bananas, taro, pineapples & kava root. At the market though I've been able to get red leaf lettuce, bok choy, tomatoes, cucumber, green beans and eggplant. We saw a couple of people pushing homemade wheelbarrows. They are made using bamboo sticks for the frame, a coconut for the wheel with a stick through the middle and an old sack for the bucket.
We left Taveuni the next day even though we didn't want to. It would've been a great island to bike on but the wind had switched to the north, the anchorage had become rough and a weather window had opened up to head 175 miles SE to the Lau Group. This island group is one of the most remote and therefore traditional parts of Fiji and it has only been open for sailboats to freely cruise since last year. You can only get there during a weakening or shift in the usual SE trade winds. Of course we all sailed right by them on the way here from NZ but you can't stop since there's nowhere to check in. We reluctantly parted ways with Reality & Vulcan Spirit since they weren't going to Fulanga as we were. The following morning we headed out at dawn and did an overnight to arrive in Fulanga.
Our passage took 29 hours and the weather was beautiful. We crept out of our anchorage at 6am just as it was getting light being careful to follow our GPS track from the trip in since there is reef everywhere. Because it was only one night, we felt pretty relaxed about the trip and just hoped the light winds would hold out until we arrived. We got a mahi mahi on the way and so it was fish for dinner and on the way to Taveuni we got a nice walu which is the Pacific's version of spanish mackeral so we've been flush with fish lately. It was a crystal clear night and the moon rose around midnight scaring me as usual. Even though I remind myself that it will be coming up on my watch, it still appears as a faint orange ball on the horizon and my first instinct is "what the heck is THAT?!" This seems to be universal among sailors and even this same moonrise startled our friends. We arrived the next morning at the pass in time for the tide switch which is important since it's a very narrow pass into a lagoon and all the tidal water has to flow in & out of the lagoon via this pass. There are about 20 boats here in Fulanga right now, all spread out but since most people love to dive & snorkel, there were something like 8 dinghies hovering outside the pass waiting for the same tide switch we were so they could drift dive in. Sort of like a big welcome party and not the usual thing we see. The island of Fulanga is surrounded by reef that forms a lagoon and inside are a zillion mushroom shaped rock islets, some of which have beaches. It's really beautiful & feels very South Pacific.
Our friends on Slip Away & Charisma arrived at the same time we did so we all came in together, got settled and then went ashore to the village to make our first sevusuvu. The sevusevu is the traditional Fijian ceremony that is used for community meetings, life-cycle celebrations and for visitors to seek acceptance into a village as is the case for us. In short, you come ashore dressed in a sulu (a wrap around skirt) with a bundle of yaqona (Fijian for kava) in hand, approach a villager and ask for the Turanga ni Koro who is the elected village headman and you state your wishes. For us it is to meet the village people, to anchor in their waters and to swim on their reefs. He will take you to the village chief and sit you down in a circle on a woven mat across from the chief. You remove your shoes whenever you will step onto a mat. The men need to sit indian style and for this Jon is not really built for. Ladies can sit with legs to the side which is much easier. Anyway, the Turanga ni Koro kneels in front of the chief and says a few sentences in Fijian expressing the purpose of our visit, he slides the kava toward the chief, who then recites some traditional monologue, there are a series of cupped claps called "cobos" and then if all goes well, you're in! They already had kava prepared so we went right into that part of the ceremony rather than have to wait for it to be prepared. A half coconut shell serves as the cup and it is passed around the circle. When you are presented with the cup, you cobo right before you drink it down all at once, then you cobo 3 more times afterward if I remember right. Kava is the root of a pepper plant so within seconds your mouth and lips feel a little tingly but not burning. We stopped at one or two cupfuls since it isn't quite as good as a beer but it was SO good to finally experience this sevu sevu and find out that it wasn't as scary as we'd all thought it would be. There were rumors that you'd have to sit drinking kava for hours or that you could be denied acceptance. I don't see how this could happen; these people couldn't have been more welcoming.
Afterward, a nice man named Matai gave us a tour of the village and we met & shook hands with so many warm & friendly souls it was hard to remember everyone's names. But the kids really steal your heart. I had 2 stuck to me like glue. We walked around the village and met 2 of the 4 teachers, saw the school, the church, a woodcarver at work, a lady dying the pandanus leaves that are used for weaving and admired the unique style of house here that is round and of course landscaped with little flowering shrubs. As is typical of the islands, there is a clinic but no nurse, a generator that doesn't work, a little store but there is nothing in there to buy. A supply ship arrives about every 6-8 weeks and is due this weekend, so that is good for them. We won't be buying anything here though since they only order what they think they need and we would therefore be taking from them. That afternoon, the 6 of us went back back to the anchorage and had happy hour on Slip Away to mull it all over. In a nutshell, the experience in this village named Monacake was a real highlight of our Pacific cruise.
The next day was Sunday and we were all invited to church. Jon & I had originally thought we might walk into the village with Slip Away & Charisma who were going to church, but then skip church ourselves in favor of a walk to the far village to get some much needed exercise. But after talking with a couple of villagers who kind of wondered why we were headed away from instead of toward the church, we quickly realized this wasn't going to go over very well. So we walked with one of the teachers- Davida to the next village and joined him on the church pew for an all Fijian service. We picked out 3 words during the sermon: Obama, America and Martin Luther King. I'm not sure whether they approve of the US or not but they are following the teachings of Martin Luther King. In the middle of the sermon, the chickens outside had a squabble and it was difficult to hear. There's a great deal of singing and volume is important. Babies were frequently passed from one family member to another to keep them quiet and there was a solemn but good vibe going, along with a nice ocean breeze through all the open windows.
Afterward, we were invited for lunch at Davida's uncle's house. Once again, we sat down on a fine woven mat for the meal. A long tablecloth was layed down and the plates & food were set on that. Fortunately, they gave us forks but they eat with their hands. We had delicious fish, octopus, cassava, bananas, Fijian cabbage cooked in coconut milk and we had a coconut to drink from. Afterward, a bowl of water is passed to wash their hands. Mid way through, a one eyed cat entered the room and curled up in the corner to sleep. We were told this special meal is only eaten on Sunday and the rest of the week they eat more simply. We felt very honored to share it with them. The kids did more singing for us in the main courtyard in front of the church and we also just chatted with them. They really crack me up, constantly in motion, hanging all over each other, giving each other joking jabs and trying not to be left out. It seems universal that kids will be kids. They had a hammock by the seashore and they were all piled into it at once. We met back up with Slip Away & Charisma and headed back to our boats. Jon & I went for a quick snorkel late in the day, expecting nothing more than exercise but instead we saw 7 lobsters, a huge eel completely out and posed like a cobra, a juvenile puffer fish (looks like a bright yellow pea) and a bunch of other stuff.
And lastly, today, Jon & I and Jan visited the school. We sat down in the kindergarten and 5/6th grade classes and chatted for a little bit with the kids. The teacher has to translate most of it since even though they teach English, the kids can't speak it very well. We talked about where we came from in the US and how we sailed here. The kids are very well behaved & respectful of us. In the afternoon, we took another quick snorkel, Jon speared one lobster to secure our dinner and then 2 of the teachers (one is Davida) and his wife came out to our boat for a visit since they've never been aboard a sailboat before. We showed them around, showed them the electronic charting since they asked how we knew how to get here and we chatted as much as we could.
No doubt about it, we are worlds apart. But we've never had such a rewarding experience with the members of a village as we have had here and we hope we are making memories for them as well. Before we left on this trip, we sat down at a pizza parlor in Onset, MA, with our friends Mark & Judy on Windbird who had just completed their circumnavigation. They raved to us about Fiji and how special a place it was. Well here we are and we couldn't agree more.
06/20/2013, Viany Bay, Vanua Levu
Wow, talk about a climate change- it's hot here in Fiji. Did I mention there was ice on the docks at Marsden on the day we left New Zealand? It's the kind of hot where you take a cold shower and it isn't cool enough and you spend a lot of time thinking about cold drinks. But it's lovely here and we really like it so far.
We spent a week in Savusavu getting things spiffed up from the passage and getting ourselves organized. Thankfully, we're back to affordable prices for meals out and it is once again like a big reunion of sailors so there's a lot to talk about over frequent gatherings. Plus, Fiji Bitters beer is delicious and cheap! Many people are going about trying to get parts & fix things that broke underway- there were a lot of sail tears and engine/fuel issues this trip and we didn't come away unscathed- the water pump for the generator broke so we are waiting for a new pump to arrive as well. We also learned after the first snorkeling trip that our underwater camera case has a big crack in it and is leaking so no underwater pictures for now unless they're shallow enough for the bag we have. This is most distressing! We're trying to get another one ordered but what a joke- this is our 3rd underwater camera case and we are beginning to realize they're a throwaway item after about a year, even though we got a good quality Ikelite case this time. And getting things shipped in here is quite a project. For now, we're just hoping we can get the water pump since it not only runs the generator, but the generator runs the dive compressor so we're really out of luck.
There's a popular Fijian named Curly and he gives talks to sailors on cruising Fiji since it can be challenging to get around the reefs here since most charts aren't reliable. Many boats have been lost and there are more every year. So a bunch of us went last week and spent over 3 hours looking at charts and taking notes to plan our attack on Fiji. It's a big country with tons of cruising ground and world class diving along with the opportunity to learn about the Fijian culture and share experiences with these friendly people. The popular Lau group is once again open to cruisers and we're excited to sail there since it promises to be very remote and as authentic as you can expect.
We left Savusavu a few days ago all stocked up again, including a stash of 2 kg of kava. This will be used to present to the chief of the village when we arrive at anchorages that have a village nearby. We haven't had to use any yet though. We anchored for a couple of nights off of Cousteau Resort and finally got in the water for some so-so snorkeling. There had been a lot of rain (which was great for washing the boat off) so the water wasn't that clear. But it was nice to be at anchor and we could still go ashore for one more run. Then we headed eastward to another quiet bay and anchored next to Vaughn & Sharon and their crewmember Rachel whom we'd gotten to know pretty well. It was her last night aboard so we had a get-together after an afternoon of snorkeling in some really clear water on a beautiful shallow reef. Then we headed further up the coast to Viany Bay to finally meet up with a bunch of boats that we cruised with last year. This is a beautiful bay with bright green hills and loads of birds calling. There is no town, no road and just a few houses. It is very quiet & peaceful. This is the home of the famous Rainbow Reef which lies between the islands of Vanua Levu & Taveuni.
We've done 3 dives so far. There's a well known Fijian man named Jack who lives in this anchorage and provides a service to yachties whereby he'll go out with you in your boat and help you find the dive site, hook to a mooring, then he'll watch over your boat while you dive. If it is a drift dive, he'll follow your bubbles in the dinghy and be there when you surface for pickup. It pays to have one boat go out to the reef and everybody pile on that, so that's what we did the first day. You have to have your own tanks & gear, which we do and interestingly enough, most people here do too. The dive site was called the "Fish Factory" and it was all about every kind of fish you could think of in every bright color, all at once. Beautiful!
And yesterday was the big day of diving the "White Wall", one of the top dives sites in the world. It can only be done at certain times of the month because of the current and we lucked out & booked it a week ago with a local dive shoppe with some other boats in the anchorage. The weather was perfectly settled and it was a bright, sunny day. The dive goes down to about 90 feet, through a lava tunnel that starts at about 40 feet and then exits at the White Wall at about 90 feet. This wall descends to 300 meters but is striking in that there's a profusion of a coral which glows whitish purple. I can't remember the name of the coral. When you move out some into the blue and look back at the wall, it is just a mass of white going up & down as far as you can see. Crazy! I loved the tunnel. It was truly like the magazines.
We are finally into the incredible scenery that we've been looking at in magazines for nearly a lifetime. Those beautiful pictures of pinkish orange reefs with brightly colored fish and crystal clear water? That's this! And onwards to Indonesia/Malaysia/Thailand promises even more. Our Paul Humann Reef ID guides are getting a workout looking up all the new stuff. On a snorkel the other day, Jon spotted 2 Blue Spotted Ribbon Tail Rays- they are the mascot for PADI dive certification and I always remember looking at the picture of one in our instruction book and thinking that it couldn't be real. Well, it is! Had our camera case not been broken, I'd have a nice picture to show you :(
The second dive for the day was at a site called "Jack's Place" & it too was full of beauty. Jon spotted 2 octopus including one of the very small varieties that we'll be starting to encounter now. We spent half of that dive on a sheer wall which I love since you can pay attention to the wall but you can also turn and look out into the blue for pelagic fish and you get a real feeling for the vastness of the depths as the wall just disappears going straight down. Then the second half was on the top of the reef and we wove in & out of big bommies (big coral heads) and overhangs that are just packed with life. We continue to enjoy finding nudibranches & flatworms since they come in every color and are so delicate. The divemaster showed us how you can give a little wave of water next to a flatworm and send it swimming and then let it fall into your hand for closer inspection. All in all, it was a great day.
Now we're out of air and still working on getting the pump for the generator. It still hasn't arrived and yesterday the guy told us "by the way, the price has gone up too" so now it is ridiculously expensive. We are re-examining our options.
I'd bought a watermelon at the market on Saturday and discovered a couple of days ago that it had exploded in the aft cabin. The shelf, carpet and all that was on the carpet were saturated in not so fresh watermelon water. What the heck?! In all my years I've never seen anything like that. I guess the moral of the story is, if you can look at the bright side, is that you can't save the sweet part of life for later, you have to eat it now or else risk losing it for good! Meanwhile, the carpet still smells. Oh well, I think I'll just go diving instead.