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So Inclined
Agua Verde
05/09/2011, 25 30.93'N:111 4.02'W, Agua Verde

A couple nights ago I was in Los Candeleros (7 nm south of Puerto Escondido--got to sail a little of it). Had a good snorkel with Bob and fun time aboard Cirque (Louis and Laura) with Sirocco.

Yesterday I moved another 17 nm south to Agua Verde, the anchorage we had to pass up when the northerly came in last week. It is a very cool place. Another for my "favorites list". Pretty (and a little warmer water). Snorkeled a reef yesterday. Hiked and checked out the town today (and of course did some boat projects too).

The hike took me up one bay with a view of another and then down into the cemetery and into the desert. Sometimes I was following a goat trail and/or a wash. The remoteness was impressive. Reminded me of my childhood exploring in the desert. It was a good feeling being alone with nature. I wish I had better words to describe it: Exciting, fun, peaceful, humbling, .... Lots of different sights, sounds, textures, and smells. Off in the distance were palm trees. Hiking toward them I found some water holes that lead to another beach and some cattle grazing. Lots of signs of other animals too. I'll try and post pictures when I get internet ( ) Later I hiked into town. This is a little village/town with homes, a small police station, church, restaurant, and small tienda (small grocery store). The Tienda was small but had some of the best tomatoes I've seen for a while (bought a few).

I'll probably head north tomorrow either back to Candeleros or Puerto Escondido (weather dependent). Karen is head back to crew for me again and I need to be in Puerto Escondido by at least Thursday (probably stay a couple nights to provision too). It will be good to have some company.

Backtracking South
05/07/2011, Puerto Escondido

Last couple of days have been hanging out (pool day at a nearby Ā"resortĀ"), boat projects, socializing, and yesterday was another provisioning day in Loreto. Notice the pickup truck again. They make for a handy ride in and back (from Puerto Escondido to Loreto) if you donĀ't mind the wind, dust and sun. Hitch hiking is a very normal thing in this area and the locals are all very accommodating. Makes for an interesting adventure.

Sounds like Pacifico, Blue Rodeo and Swift Current are making a leisurely trip up from La Paz so now I donĀ'tĀ' expect to see them any time soon. I am going to head south today to Candelaro with Sirroco and then eventually to Agua Verde, an anchorage we missed on the way up because of weather. The weather is calm and expected to be that way for the next several days so although probably not much sailing, the anchorages hopefully will be very nice.

05/08/2011 | Debbie Chesney
Very much enjoying your blog and photos, Mike. :D
A Day in Loreto

Yesterday was one of my planned unplanned days. I decided to go into Loreto (15 miles away) with no plan. Once ashore I met up with a couple other guys, Shannon and Mathew, looking to get into town. The trick is to get in to town as cheaply and easily as possible. A cab costs about $60 each way (expensive--especially by Mexico cruiser standards). To catch a bus you have to hike out to the highway and you have to wave down a bus that runs ROUGHLY every couple of hours. Or, the best way is to find someone with a car headed into town. That's what we did. Free ride in! After wandering around the town (Shannon knew the way, Mathew knows Spanish) we had some street tacos and then settled down for some internet and beer. Oh yah, the bar also was a fish bait and sushi place (go figure). I think it was Augie's, an ex-pat, kind of local place on the "malecon". After that we provisioned and found another ride back to Puerto Escondido. This time it was in the back of a pickup truck.

It was a good day seeing the town and getting to know Shannon, a single hander on Sinbad, ex-capenter, somewhat fugitive from the San Diego law. And Mathew, a young, aspiring musician who hopped a ride to Loreto Fest on Neener (cubed). It was one of those magical cruising days that with only a rough plan everything flows and works out.

05/06/2011 | Judy & Dale Ross
Clay gave me your info- sounds like you are having too much fun!!!! we are here on the boat until september- just checking in- take care judy 7 Dale
Northerlies at Puerto Escondido
05/03/2011, Puerto Escondido

I made it to Puerto Escondido Saturday after a brisk motor sail (7 hours/ 39 nm) and picked up a mooring. Spent the evening getting the lay of the land, visiting with old and new boater friends, and enjoying burger, beer, and music at Loreto Fest.
The next day the north winds did blow (as forecasted). After taking the dinghy in for the pancake breakfast -which was delayed due to the wind shifting tables and tents over night--I attempted to go back to the boat. By then the wind had really picked up. On the way back the outboard died and rather than try to fix it in the chop I rowed my way back to the other dinghy dock and took the shoreboat back out to the boat. The dinghy got to spend two nights ashore. This being Mexico it was safe and still there today.
Yesterday the wind blew even stronger--30+ knots. I decided to spend the day on the boat--especially after hearing a couple of boats had their mooring lines part during the night. I actually read a novel from start to end (rare for me). It was kind of nice to have a down day after the last few days of events. And besides, I can't get any cell phone or internet from the boat. I haven't had any internet or cell phone service since leaving the La Paz area. The sea really is remote. I really miss the internet.
Today is catching up on some e-mails and exploring more of the area around Puerto Escondido and having Sirocoo over for dinner tonight. Tomorrow I am hoping to go into Loreto and see the town. I'll probably be here for the rest of the week hopefully long enough for Pacifico, Blue Rodeo and Swift Current to catch up.

05/03/2011 | Janet
Loreto should be fantastic - pretty and lots of history. leave it to you to get there for the party! I imagine the Sea is even more remote when you are sailing solo but good you had a "down" day before the rest of the "fleet" gets there to liven things up!
Los Gatos-Incredibly Beautiful
04/29/2011, 25 18.01'N:110 56.69'W, Los Gatos

Another day of sailing--and with the spinnaker! Covered another 29 miles today (Evaristo to Los Gatos). Only thing better would be to catch some fish along the way--but I am not complaining.

This bay is incredibly beautiful. From dessert landscape to the big red boulders. Another bay to add to my favorites list (it's getting pretty long ;). Went ashore and hiked around a bit. Took lots of pictures. A real photographer would have a field day here. Mother nature is pretty remarkable.

This is a pretty remote anchorage and there are a couple of hidden reef to avoid. Just Sirocco and So Inclined here for the night. We still have the south swell so we're moving around a bit. Hopefully it will calm down tonight.

A northerly is forecasted so we're going to have to head for cover. We were going to go to Agua Verde tomorrow but now we're thinking we'll head to Puerto Escondido instead. It will be another 39nm to cover but the good news is we might catch the tail end of Lorreto Fest.

04/30/2011 | Karen
Hey Mike, I knew you'd like it!!
Going where the wind takes me
04/29/2011, 24 54.83'N:110 42.12'W, Evaristo

I set off from Partida yesterday either headed to Isla San Fransisco or Evaristo--sort of depending which way the wind blew. As it turned out I got to fly the spinnaker and it set me toward Evaristo. A little farther, 29nm vs 20, but it was a good day sailing and I caught up with Sirroco there.

Crusing this part of the sea reminds me of days on Lake Mead--though it's not quite that hot--yet. The scenery (the Giganta range) in this part reminds me of the grand canyon--very beautiful. The pictures probably won't due it justice. I'll post them next time I get internet. Haven't had, and probably won't for a while, cell phone service or internet.

That evening had dinner aboard Sirocco. It was just our two boats in the anchorage for a while until later when about four more boats showed up. Didn't get a chance to go ashore. The conditions weren't that calm. In fact about 0400 the swell, most likely from a big corumel down south, came in and made things uncomfortable. We left the anchorage around 0700 heading north to Los Gatos.

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