Go West!
29 January 2007 | Leaving Panama
Cass
Sora set sail from Balboa Yacht Club on Saturday early afternoon. Da and I are on our way to Puerto Amistad in Bahia de Caraquez,
Ecuador about 550 mi south. We are hauling to pick up Sister Mandy who'll be arriving at Guayaquil airport on Feb 5th. Then we'll take plane, train, and bus into Peru to explore Machu Picchu. I couldn't be more thrilled.
Our first stop was Contadora, Las Perlas Islands, Panama. On Sunday morning we replaced the head
cap on our furling main, scrubbed the water line, and applied a hopeful smattering of polysulfide caulk to the windlass base and bow plate. There is a leak in my v-berth that has been haunting/soaking me since we sailed Sora down from Annapolis two years ago. We have rebedded,
recaulked, and epoxied every place on the deck where water could even think about penetrating and alas, she still leaks. Teak decks are beautiful, but more high maintenance than a skinny girlfriend with a little dog. Agreeing that we were as ready as we could be, we set sail Sunday at high noon.
Many cruisers tell horror stories of being pirated, boarded, or at the very least approached by either Colombian officials or offshore fishing vessels during this passage to Ecuador. My dad, quite keen on avoiding obstacles, had planned on setting a course that split the difference of about 200 miles between the Colombian coast and nationally protected Isla Malpela, a huge rock jutting out of the pacific that is rumored to be popular not only with fish, but also with unsavory
characters. However, when I was talking to Alex for the 8th last time, I was relaying our clever plan to steer clear of both dangers and he offered a simple suggestion, "Go west."
Alex had heard of cruisers setting a course heading for 150 km west of Malpela, just shy of 84 W, and then cutting back in to Ecuador. This course alteration would add over 100 km to our trip, yet allow us to be free of the worry that accompanies possible danger, and put us at a fantastically smooth point of sail. My dad liked the sound of that and re-entered our waypoints. And west we went. The sailing gods have been smiling on us ever since. We have caught two beautiful yellow fin tuna and a big ol' mahi. Dad saw a whale breach the water parallel to Sora and spout a mini geyser as if to say "Nice choice..." Thirty minutes
later he saw a sailfish jump about eight feet out of the water. The marine life were obviously bidding us a safe passage.
As the sun comes up in the east, we have 17-20 kts behind us and Sora is holding steady 7's and 8's. The deep blue pacific waves are licking our
stern and pushing us south. I had the late watch, 4 am until whenever the captain starts moving again. It is truly amazing witnessing billions of stars introduce a big red ball on the horizon. As I was sitting in the cockpit writing this blog in my mind, a pod of dolphins bid me a playful good morning. Have you ever been so blatantly happy or
overwhelmed with beauty that you laughed out loud? This morning I was giggling like a little girl.
Damn, it's good to be at sea again.