02/09/2010, Stanley, Falkland Islands
During our recent arrival here in the Falklands we have been welcomed with much kindness, care and generosity. The folks in the hospital took great care in efficiently attending to both Greg and Keri's needs as soon as they arrived. Back here at the Dock, officials came to keep us updated as to Gregs progress and the odd friend from the sailing community dropped by to offer any help.
Ken Passfield who has lived in the Falklands for 20 years, popped down to the boat and had met Greg and Keri 13 years ago. We invited him onboard for a cuppa tea and soon found out that he has recently returned from South Georgia after spending 3 weeks counting Wandering Albatross birds and nests on both Prion and Albatross Island. Unfortunately he did not come bearing good news as the numbers of nests and individuals have plummeted over the past few years, reaching an all time low of only 129 breeding pairs.
Since the mid 50's the Falkland Island Government has supported annual bird surveys on the chain of islands adjacent to South Georgia where the largest flying bird in the world, the Wandering Albatross nests. Bird biologist Sally Poncet has been involved with this South Georgia project for 12 yrs and since the mid 1950's, breeding pairs of Wandering Albatross has dropped from 180 to now 129. It is strongly speculated that the cause of this steady decline is due to the long line fishing industry in waters off the Brazilian and Uruguayan coast. Unfortunately these efficient flying birds cover thousands of miles annually on foraging flights causing them to fly amongst numerous international longline fishing fleets.
This recent sad news brings on an urgency to do whatever it takes to continue with this South Georgia, solo kayak expedition and begin piecing together the devastating story of what is happening to our world population of Albatross species.
Currently we are looking for an additional crew member to join the Northanger. The open ocean crossing to South Georgia and the wild and exposed coast particularly on the SW side of South Georgia requires a strong crew. All is riding on the hope of a suitable sailor showing up willing to join us on our voyage to and around South Georgia Island.
Plan B? Well there is always the Falkland Islands to kayak around. Never been done before by a woman and there's thousands of Black Browed Albatross nesting on the exposed outer islands, as well as Penguins such as King, Magellanic and the gorgeous Gentoos. Oh, not to mention the odd sandy beach that has swell always worth surfing.
Ahhh, can't express the emotions, thoughts and feelings going on inside of me being so close to South Georgia yet so bloody far. This constant stalling is really frustrating, my desperate desire to just get on with it creates a feeling as though I just want to burst. OK, enough of that ranting. Deep breath hayls, after all it is an expedition :)
I'm trying to attach photos to my blog but am having difficulty. Hopefully I will have some success tomorrow. More news soon.
|
Comments [0]
02/09/2010, Stanley Falkland Islands
A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us. John Steinbeck
Drama at sea
For all those who have been tracking our progress, you may have realised that we have diverted our course towards the Falkland Islands. Unfortunately our progress was slowed down by a storm which lingered in our vicinity over the previous 4 days. We experienced winds of up to 60 knots, blowing from the N, NW and it kicked up quite a furious sea.
I was always relieved during the many Drake Passage crossings I have done while working on the big ships not being one who suffers from sea-sickness. I've surely made up for it on this crossing as we spent most nights being tossed and rocked as the heavy seas dominated around us. We had to hove-to at times as well as lay-a -hull to wait for the seas to calm and allow us to continue our progress. And then an incident occurred which has caused a big change to our plans.
Unfortunately a serious medical incident occurred onboard causing the need for us to immediately divert our course towards the Falkland Islands, the closest place for advanced medical treatment. Unfortunately, now desperately needing to make some head-way, the storm continued brewing around us and we had to hove-to throughout the night. Finally, with slightly easing wind and steadying sea we were able to continue on our way, heading towards Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands.
We arrived in Port Stanley yesterday and shortly after Greg was in surgery having work done on his right hand. We have waited until now to write this update on the blog due to wanting Gregs family to hear from him directly to cause less worry. Please accept the vagueness in the actual incident just know that he still will be able to play the Cello and climb - his two of many passions in life.
Although he is doing well, he will not be able to continue with us to South Georgia and being one of the key crew members (Captain and Owner) it is uncertain the Northanger will be able to continue as support vessel for my expedition.
I have a Plan B and a Plan C in mind but will approach those in more detail when a few ducks have been pushed back in the row.
The well-being of Greg, his partner Keri and all those onboard is my first concern and the most important situation at present. I do however believe that above all the trauma and unexpected drama we have all recently experienced, good will eventually come of it.
Stand by for further updates.
PS, it feels absolutely divine being on land once again.
|
02/07/2010, Stanley, Falkland Islands
A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us. John Steinbeck
Drama at sea
For all those who have been tracking our progress, you may have realised that we have diverted our course towards the Falkland Islands. Unfortunately our progress was slowed down by a storm which lingered in our vicinity over the previous 4 days. We experienced winds of up to 60 knots, blowing from the N, NW and it kicked up quite a furious sea.
I was always relieved during the many Drake Passage crossings I have done while working on the big ships not being one who suffers from sea-sickness. I've surely made up for it on this crossing as we spent most nights being tossed and rocked as the heavy seas dominated around us. We had to hove-to at times as well as lay-a -hull to wait for the seas to calm and allow us to continue our progress. And then an incident occurred which has caused a big change to our plans.
Unfortunately a serious medical incident occurred onboard causing the need for us to immediately divert our course towards the Falkland Islands, the closest place for advanced medical treatment. Unfortunately, now desperately needing to make some head-way, the storm continued brewing around us and we had to hove-to throughout the night. Finally, with slightly easing wind and steadying sea we were able to continue on our way, heading towards Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands.
We arrived in Port Stanley yesterday and shortly after Greg was in surgery having work done on his right hand. We have waited until now to write this update on the blog due to wanting Gregs family to hear from him directly to cause less worry. Please accept the vagueness in the actual incident just know that he still will be able to play the Cello and climb - his two of many passions in life.
Although he is doing well, he will not be able to continue with us to South Georgia and being one of the key crew members (Captain and Owner) it is uncertain the Northanger will be able to continue as support vessel for my expedition.
I have a Plan B and a Plan C in mind but will approach those in more detail when a few ducks have been pushed back in the row.
The well-being of Greg, his partner Keri and all those onboard is my first concern and the most important situation at present. I do however believe that above all the trauma and unexpected drama we have all recently experienced, good will eventually come of it.
Stand by for further updates.
PS, it feels absolutely divine being on land once again.
| Circumnavigation of South Georgia Island by Kayak |
|
Hello folks, I received an email from Hayley today. Looks like that storm has hit them hard, to the point of being unable to set sails. So they sit in the South Atlantic doing a meager 3knots pitching and rolling like a cork with the waves and wind.
Hayley tells me that she has been seasick for 2 days, unable to hold much food or water down, and is feeling cramped and uncomfortable. Yet, dispite the discomfort, she still has the "what an adventure" attitude. Hayley just sent a quick email as she is finding it very hard to type anything while feeling so sick and with the boat pitching and rolling. Here is that email...
"K, won't do an update, feel too queezy...
Just write, hove to over night, aailed with the wind earlry morning, hoving to again coz the wind has got too strong. Puking, feel like shit, feel trapped in this small space, apppreciate the sturdiness of the boat and that it is built for such seas, but not really into it. Cramped body, sick stomach can't eat or drink much but boy it's an adventure. We are just getting smacked by this nasty system which is sticking around - barometre dropped 14 millibars in 1 hour and 20 mins that's HUGE...ok so I wrote an update..."
|
02/03/2010, South Atlantic Ocean
Feb 3rd, Southern Ocean on-board Northanger
Only within the previous 24 hours I have witnessed the typical extremities of the Southern Ocean.
Last evening during the final hour of my watch I observed an open ocean sunset on a ripple-less sea. Due to the swell, I watched the sun sink beneath the waves numerous times and it was during a lull in the swell train that offered the classic spectacle of the inflamed ball dropping beyond the sea. The pastel colors canvased the sky and stars appeared in sporadic spaces.
For the first time this journey I enjoyed gazing at the Southern Cross, a constellation I grew up with. It was a scene from my homeland and I was happy to have it watch over us like a guardian.
An Albatross soared occasionally in the shadows of the recent setting sun and with it's elegant wingspan, it seemed to be painting its own constellation.
The following morning I woke up groggy from an unsettled sleep and joined Greg at the chart table. He was peering closely at the recently downloaded weather satellite image. "We're going to get kicked up the ass" he bluntly expressed and from what I could make out with the wind arrows and heavy cloud drenching the Falklands, that system was on its way to us.
And so today has been a somewhat indoors day, keeping an eye on the radar from inside the boat and checking every 15 minutes the conditions outside. Fog has closed in, the birds seem to have disappeared and we suddenly seem very alone in what is now a building sea.
Magnus who has grown up on sailboats whipped up a hearty vegetable soup which we all forced down knowing soon enough, our stomachs may not be able to take too much. The aroma of home-cooking filled the small corners of the boat and awakened me from my 'in-between watches' slumber. Yep, suddenly we were experiencing unpredictable shifts in the boat we were taking the odd wave over deck. As I write this my stomach lurches along with the boat and this soup gurgling in my stomach probably won't stick around. It's time to quit this blog update and lay flat for abit. Geee, what one does for an adventure!
|
02/02/2010, South Atlantic Ocean
Feb 2, It is the afternoon of our full day at sea and already we are settled in to our watches. I do the 4am to 10am watch and the 4pm to 10pm watch. This is perfect for me as I get to enjoy the sunset and sunrise and film during these special times of day and evening. I saw my first Wandering Albatross soaring in the southern skies and soon after sighting it, it landed. The wind was just too light. It was only blowing about 15 knots at the time which is not enough for that huge 12 foot wingspan. You know who came to mind when I saw that Wanderer? - All the keen and curious kids I was honored to share my adventure with at the schools in Alert Bay and the Young Naturalist club - so hi to you all from the middle of the Drake Passage.
This morning I enjoyed (and filmed) Hour Glass dolphins swimming beneath our bow, the water was a brilliant blue and they weaved back and forth as though painting a continuous figure eight. My body is finally adjusting to the movement of the boat and after an entire evening of feeling rather queezy, I woke this morning with much more energy. I hate taking sea-sickness medication so today I have gone without. And I'm doing ok, so far. We'll see how these spuds and lentil stew sits.
Wow, I can't believe we are going to be onboard with no land in sight for 7-10 days, on this small but strong n sturdy 54 ft boat. I feel so little, so insignificant, it humbles me to recognise that we are a simple little dot in this great expanse of open sea.
Right now we are traveling at a heading of 98 degrees SE, going at a speed of 6b knots We have the engine on due to not enough wind for our sails, although we still have the jib and mizzen up. Bet-Anne is doing great, she also is adjusting too the motion of the boat and this morning we had a cuppa tea together discussing how easier it will be to film Albatross from land. She laughed at me while I was trying to hold on to the boat, camera in my hand, attempting to film a swift moving Albatross soaring just above the oceans surface, flying at a speed much faster than our boat.
All the best to you! Thanks for your interest and keep a close eye.
|
