You can't believe how much we have thought about Georgia over the past three weeks. Now, we are firmly inserted into the twisted rivers and creeks of the Georgian ICW. One comment before we get started, the state of Georgia no longer maintains the ICW here so any dredging done is only at the major ports like Savannah.

We first thought of Georgia as merely a short shot to get into Florida until sailing friends we made in Myrtle Beach mentioned that it went 300 miles for every 100 you actually go South. Another comment was 'go outside if you can wait for a weather window, it is really shallow". We were still in South Carolina and it didn't seem like the time to worry yet.

We spent a great week of R & R in Beaufort over Thanksgiving and a guy names Joe came to help us out with a bum switch to the water maker. Peaches talked with him at length, after all we had him trapped in the boat for a while, about the upcoming transition into Georgia and our relative inexperience with tides. He mentioned several places to watch out for by name, a huge help. He also is a sailor and knew what he was talking about when we said our keel is about 6 feet.

Peaches has been glued to her iPhone for tide tables and current tables, making out elaborate tables of all the creeks and rivers we will pass through or possibly anchor in. She is wearing her head lamp so that she can see the details of the charts and the tables. She is learning the finesse of when to depart in the morning to make sure that we can clear some of the shallow cuts. The tides in this section of Georgia run in excess of nine feet, so lots of planning needs to be done. She is now officially the Queen of Tides, at least on this vessel. I have no doubt she could help lots of others going through here.

Today is a great example. We stopped last night after leaving Beaufort in Wrights River South. We stopped at 2:30 in the afternoon because we were almost at low tide and wouldn't make the next cut from one river to another. We left this morning about 0800 at almost high tide. The first cut was Fields Cut where low tide could be as low as two feet, so adding nine feet for us is a big deal. The lowest point I found was at the entrance, just 10 feet. We would have been calling Boat US again. Coming out of Fields Cut into the Savannah River, I asked Peaches to see if anything was coming. She was momentarily speechless but made up for it quickly when we both saw the HUGH container ship bearing down on us, I mean if I had stuck the bow out another foot it would have been gone! While we both shouted at each other, we managed to hold position, aim at his stern, rev the engine and make it through the prop wash. Burt, this would have caused you to soil your chinos!!

So, tides are the whole thing here. As we were going through rivers and creeks, and today a couple of bascule bridges, we had company for a change. Yesterday we were in a string of three sailboats, Today we were mainly with one other sailboat (sailing yacht) from Annapolis. We lead for the first part of the day, and were glad when he picked up the lead and took us through some heavy current and lots of areas where we needed to use range finders to keep our position in the swirling currents. Range marks are a tall pole with red and white stripes with a shorter one in front of it. Piece of cake, line them up with the bow of your boat at you are magically on course. It takes two of us. When the lower one wanders to the right, you need to steer right and line them up again, and vice versa. Old dogs, new tricks!

On the way we have seen more shrimp and fishing boats, but far outnumbering them are the mega yachts!. Along the rivers we went today after passing the river to Savannah and came upon the town of Thunderbolt. Innocent sounding, but the amount of white fiberglass in a one mile strip was staggering. We looked like a toy sailboat for the pond at Central Park! There is a lot of money in Georgia, hidden in the marshes and grasslands.

We continued on toward our evening anchorage this afternoon and along a couple of the stretches we saw sunken ship icons on the Navionics program we watch we use as we drive and Peaches charts. We were craning our necks to the left as we went by the spot and Peach looked right and there was mast sticking out of the marsh grasses. It made the hair on the back of our necks stand up straight! This person did not take the tide tables as his holy grail.

Weather report for Georgia. I wore shorts a lot in Beaufort, at least until the sun set at 5:00 in the afternoon. We stayed an extra day in Beaufort because of a weather alert about strong winds, heavy rains, and tornadoes. Only one day after the official end of the hurricane season, a major storm. It hit late Wednesday night with heavy rains, not much for winds, but man, were we prepared. A tornado did touch down inland about 20 miles, hurling double-wides into the trees. We were right to stay.

We left early the next morning with a lovely flip turn off of the dock using the current to turn the bow (another old dog, new trick). The temperature went south with us, not getting above 60 but giving us lots of sun. Today dawned overcast and about 40 degrees. It never got warmer and in fact decided to rain some. We were chilled to the bone, riding in the cockpit, all the panels down tight, in layers of assorted clothes and thermoses of coffee clutched in our cold fists. As the morning went on, Peaches went from just layered sweatshirts and a fleece hat, to hot water bottles (tonic bottles!) and winter gloves (arctic gloves). It was that cold. We couldn't wait to anchor, set up the two generators and get the heat started. We patiently waited for the batteries to charge and float, and then started the furnace. Whew. It almost made us comatose to get that warm!

Traveling is great for a lot of reasons, some of which I have mentioned before, but here are the top ten reasons we are glad we came:
10) It beats the heck out of still working in Buffalo or anywhere.
9) The boat was packed so we might as well go.
8) We had talked about it for so long, it was time to s... or get off the pot.
7) It's a great way to meet new people.
6) It is one of the only ways I could think of to get Peaches' basement cleaned out.
5) It is a neat psychosocial experiment to put two type A professional women in a confined space for three months (and more).
4) Two people who have their Coast Guard Captain's licenses need a
trip like this to use all the stuff that Captain Daniels crammed into
our heads! Everything has come up, from plotting to ID of lights
coming at you in the dark!
3) It is like a desensitizing vacation for a slightly claustrophobic and
a somewhat OCD neat freak (me).
2) Seeing the world at sometimes less than 6 miles/hour is not a pain, it
is a privilege to see history up close and personal. Also, it is a great way
to dispel your land locked prejudices. (like Georgia being just a pass through to Florida)
1a) It is a myth that sailing down the east coast of the US of A is a vacation where you read all the books you want to, take long afternoon naps, eat bonbons, drink blender margaritas and listen to music booming out of your "yacht" speakers. It is so much more.
1) Old dogs, lots and lots of new tricks.

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We decided to stay in Beaufort SC for a few more days because of some projects we started and wanted to complete. We also can stay for a week for the same price as three individual days.

We have marked the anchor chain every 30' with day-glow yellow paint to help with anchoring in Georgia where tides run 7-8+ feet. We also are tracking down the (yes it is back) persistent leak of salt water into the bilge. Still not more than a gallon or so per day, it reappeared and we can't find it.

The other minor problem is I have no electricity to the water maker. I started re-pickling it (not a culinary feat but a preservation of the valuable membrane until we start making water in the Bahamas) and couldn't run the pump no matter the number of times I climbed in and out of the locker in the cockpit where the water maker is located and went down the ladder to the rear bunk where the defective switch is located. You know when you are so sure you know what is wrong, you keep going over it and over it and then you change one variable and do it over and over again. That was my yesterday. I tried the voltmeter but didn't register an DC current. A guy named Joe is coming over tomorrow morning to test for us, both electricity and leak looking.

While we wait for help, we haven't been idle. They have a car we could us for short one hour trips to shop. We bulked up on bread, milk, fresh fruits and vegetables. Our freezer is full from repositioning in Myrtle Beach. So how do we go for sometimes a month in-between grocery stores? A good question for sure, because I read books, blogs, attended lectures and just plain used my common sense to have foods on the boat that I could make almost any meal from.

Before leaving Buffalo, I used a Food Sealer â by Sunbeam to seal packages of food to protect it from the worst enemy of boaters, moisture. This was the machine most often mentioned by people who have spent years cruising all over the world. I have everything from prepackaged soups (mostly Knorrâ Leek Soup Mix) that I can use to make most anything. There are also prepackaged instant mashed potatoes from my Irish friend, Peaches. Coffee beans are shrink wrapped and will last over a year without refrigeration. You just have to pad them, one from another, because the motion of the boat will rub through the bags. Dried mixed mushrooms, herbs, dried pasta, sun dried tomatoes, dried beans, flour in 3 cup bags, sugar in 1 cup bags, premixed bread mixes in one loaf bags, pancake mix in one breakfast bags, on and on. This is probably the best $100 I spent prior to leaving Buffalo. All of this is stored under the V-berth bed where Peaches sleeps. (under there is also all our OTC meds, Rx meds, personal needs like toothpaste, shampoo etc, all shrink wrapped, plastic zip lock bags all sizes, TP, paper towels, Peaches scuba tank and related stuff, a box of paperback books for me all shrink wrapped).

Under one of the seats of the couch in the salon are all the canned goods (chicken, tuna, corned been, stewed beef and lots of diced tomatoes) and the small bags of flour, breads, sugar. Also there is the wine cellar (a great selection of wines and ice wines wrapped in small bubble wrap and tape) This stuff was originally in the galley but we listed to starboard persistently so they were moved to the port side couch. Lots of sailors use the bilge (that part of the boat below the floorboards, to keep heavy things at a low center of gravity but our bilge is shallow and, you guessed it, has some water in it).

In the galley itself, above the counter, has a cupboard with dishes, mugs, wine glasses, silverware and cooking utensils (like spatulas, line/lemon press, cheese grater, basting brush, can opener, etc,) On the front of that cupboard is a motto given to me by my friend Maria when she heard about our crazy plan to sail as far into the world as we could. It says:
We cannot direct the Winds, but we can adjust our Sails

Every day, four or five times a day I see this and not only think of her great wisdom in giving this to me, but that it truly directs the way we both are dealing with daily challenges.

The galley has a couple of narrow shelves with bars across that keep in all the herb and spices I use, the teas and condiments that can go without refrigeration. The refrigerator is below the counter, has four shelves and unless you know where you put things, you need to drop to your knees to find what you want. The freezer is in the counter top, has a lot of sliding baskets that are at this moment full of individual or for-two portions of meat, vegetables shrink wrapped. There is usually ice from a bag or ice cube trays if I have time. I have a few bags of Bartoliâ instant meals, done in about five minutes on the stove if we are exhausted or the boat is moving too much at anchor. The freezer runs the refrigerator, so there are small circulation fans in both, run on 2 D-cell batteries. We always have this system on, whether we are moving, anchored or at the dock. I am constantly surprised how well they work as much of me reading made me think that is was almost impossible to keep food like you do 'at home'.

Under the sink are a few mixer bottles (plastic) and usually some Frescaâ. More plastic zip-lock bags are there as well as all the cleaning stuff like Windexâ, 409â etc. The other side has the garbage can attached to the door so it opens when the door opens. Trash is kept to a minimum by taking as much of the wrapping and boxes off of things at the store before we put it on the boat. This is for space but also for cleanliness as any cardboard is a great hatching place for roaches! Ugh.

There is a counter where the most important amp using equipment is stored, the coffee grinder/maker and the toaster. They are used every day and are worth every amp they use! A small cupboard holds canned soup and other things like peanut butter and water chestnuts. A well in the counter holds plastic food containers, thermos, coffee grinder and French press if times get hard, extra kitchen towels and bowls. There might be a couple of small casseroles in there.

Under this is a low cupboard that has a drawer for knives and scissors and sliding baskets for foods, boxes of crackers, cereal, dried soups, rice and pancake mixes. Some cans are here also. Under this is my Spanish pressure cooker and spare gaskets, a set of nested pots we got in Annapolis that have detachable handles and are great. Paper towels are stuffed in-between things to keep down any sliding or rattling.

How do I cook. A lot is just like at home. There is a nice three burner gas stove with a small oven underneath. It is held in place by a bolt latch and can be left to swing if the seas are rough (gimbaled).Other than the stove being small, it all works well. On the boat everything that requires electricity needs you to flick on a switch at the main panel. It makes you think first about what you are using as far as amperage. We have battery banks that have a total of about1200 total amp hours, of which we can use about half before we have to seriously recharge everything. So, the control panel is a big part of cooking. You also have to turn a switch to have the water pressurized so it will run from your tanks out of the faucet. Another switch lets you pump out any water in the bottom of the refrigerator.

To cook dinner goes like this. You take something out of the freezer for dinner. Depending on the temperature of the inside of the boat, you either leave it in the sink or put it in the refrigerator. You need to be so careful not to touch the food with your hands, not matter how clean they are either before you package it or before you cook it. You also never reach into the pickles or olives with your fingers, only a fork. Germs love an inattentive cook in a sometimes damp boat interior. I monitor the thermometers in both the freezer and the refrigerator daily.

When we stop traveling for the day about three o'clock now because it gets dark so fast, we anchor. We drag the two 46 pound generators to the front of the boat and hook up the big yellow power cords. As the batteries are recharging, we close the canvas panels up in the cockpit and come below (rechecking our position in the tides and currents every once in a while to see we aren't dragging the anchor). I start the fish or chicken in the pans, using rosemary or lime pepper etc for seasoning. I do them low, slow and covered for the most flavor. I might do a rice mix or a from scratch risotto. If we have been to a grocery, a fresh vegetable or salad might go. This sounds easy but it requires a lot of up and down to get the pans (sit on the floor and unstuck the stacked pans to get what you need), pull out the baskets to find the rice and the chicken broth. Then, to your knees in front of the refrigerator to get out the butter, milk, pickles, cranberry sauce (we hadn't been to the store for a while) and then back up to check if we have moved from our original anchor spot. Peaches is over at the table planning ahead for tomorrows trip through the shallow twisting rivers of Georgia. We'll talk it through after dinner.

When we are underway, I usually make us a sandwich. Cold ham or turkey doesn't look too good after a couple of days out of the grocery store so we use tuna salad or chicken salad made from celery, canned meat and mayo. (Apples or chips too on the side if we have them.) It pays to switch off driving and hope for a period when it doesn't take two of us to move the boat through these shallow rivers so I can put lunch together. It has been a peanut butter sandwich several times. We are both loosing weight despite what our meals sound like. A good healthy life for us both I think.
Now that the over is heating more evenly, I hope to start making some breads, even if it is a pita or foccia bread to get away from the soft store bread. When we stay put in Florida and then the Bahamas, there will be more time for creativity. (or not, snorkeling might take up our time and make up for our relative inactivity when not traveling every day)

So, that's the galley, except for one more thing. We sometimes need a little liquid libation at night if it has been an especially hard day, or actually, a especially good day. That is also part of the galley fare aboard Star of the Sea.

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Another good night at anchor. We were warm and safe and finally found that we could have the heat going in the boat as well as the lights and the TV. Life is good. It has been so cold and damp during the days that we need some comfort at night. Warm dinner, hot tea and a warm boat.

Peaches has been combing over the guides and the charts and contacting her navigation Gods on the iPhone about our going through the Charleston Harbor. There is one bridge there, the Ashley River Bridge, vertical clearance is 56 feet. She has had nightmares about this, goes into long dissertations about our exact mast height added to our antennas and instruments on top, added to the waterline to mast bottom measurement. No matter how many times we add them up or debate the validity of the guessing part (the instruments and antennas) we come up with 58+ feet. We have to hit it at the lowest low tide, but they talk about higher tides this week because of all the rains. We are screwed! Finally last night we went over it again and it said on all the guides that it was not on the ICW course. Peaches confirmed this by calling the marina on the other side of the bridge. She gave them our statistics as if we were coming for a couple of days to see Charleston. "You can come if you feel confident enough" the guy said, in other words you can come if you are feeling lucky!. So, we cruised though Charleston in the rain without any bridge worries. I think that we got through this with the help of the iPhone Gods and possibly the use of the Nun card again.

So, we did take off in the rain this morning. We had been ducking this because we are already driving the boat through these shallow and deserted rivers and creeks, looking through plastic windows that make the outside look like it is being seen through Vaseline! Now add rain that makes it impossible to tell the color of the markers until you are almost abreast of them. Luckily, it lightened up and quit raining about midday. It was still cold and damp. It was also a day of duck hunters.

We really hunted and pecked our way, Peaches watching the markers and me watching the depth meter, trying to keep the boat in more water than the depth of our keel, 6". It seemed endless today. We got to the deeper part with lots of current and Peaches took over for a while. She did so well with the first range markers we used to keep us from being pulled of course. We caught up with three other sailboats who were obviously having the same troubles we were, then the Boat US towboat roared past us. Whew, at least this time it wasn't us. We then had some concerns about coming up too close to a towing situation in a place with no water depth to move around them. They were pulled off quickly and we all made it through. We followed them into Beaufort along with a string of motor yachts. All of thinking of a place to stay for Thanksgiving.

It was slack high tide when we got to the Downtown Marina of Beaufort. We took our turn at the fuel dock for diesel and for gas. A good docking, and then another good docking at our assigned slip. We are starting to get compliments when we slide into small spaces with Star of the Sea. More teamwork. Peach out on the deck and me under the tent.

Beaufort is a town perfectly suited for the transients coming down the ICW, going south for the winter. It has a handsome waterside park with park benches that are like porch swings, throughout the park. The most magical trick since we came here was sunshine. It dawned warm and brilliantly sunny this morning, Thanksgiving. We were told that there were two free dinners today, one in Hemingway's bar and another in a church. They don't call us homeless, but transients who need a home to come for dinner. How cool. I now find out that this is THE place to be for Thanksgiving. I agree. We slept in so late this morning that we weren't hungry enough at noon to go, but the others said it was fantastic. I took a long walk this morning and took some pictures (posted). The buildings and the town are beautiful. Peach on her walk later this afternoon talked to a fellow who was from Savannah. He comes here to see the historic architecture. It is a real temptation to go on the horse drawn historic tour. Maybe if the sun continues to shine.

We are working hard but having fun. I was pretty sure that couldn't happen simultaneously. It can. Come join us if you want to give it a try. Happy Thanksgiving!

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The day was stormy and dark. I awoke feeling like I shouldn't crawl out from under my blankets and start the day. Alas, it doesn't work like that in the world of southward bound sailors. Every day another slog though the swamps of the eastern Atlantic coast.

The smell of strong coffee faded quickly from the cold and damp salon. We were up in the cockpit, Peaches with her charts and notes, binoculars at the ready and myself at the wheel. We were going from one river, through a cut and into yet another small shallow river picking our way in the rain toward Charleston Harbor.

There were few other travelers on the ICW this morning. The birds were in hiding under the leaves of the marsh grass. Not even an insect stirred (not even a mouse).

We ran out of conversation quickly, only keeping track of the depth of the rivers and the markers. Suddenly, around the bend of the river in front of us came the sound of large boats at full speed. We couldn't see them and already I was looking for places to duck the obviously hugs craft (s) coming our way. It seemed like an hour of holding our breaths when they came, boat after boat.

They were all camouflaged, small fast boats, low to the water. They were festooned with corn stalks, hay and branches. The men were in heavy clothes in greens and browns, some with masks covering their faces. They were heavily armed and heading right towards us.

All of our preparation, expense, research, and yes, light hearted jokes, did not prepare us for this onslaught!They were bearing down on us at a great rate of speed, each boat bristling with rifles. Pirates!

I was frozen at the wheel. Peaches had the camera out from taking pictures of a barge making yard we passed and instead of running for her sawed off shotgun, grabbed the camera and began shooting. I kept the boat going straight down the narrow course of the river, wondering what would become of us. I was like a bad dream, our worst nightmare!We had to save ourselves somehow. This adventure couldn't come to and end like this!

The first flotilla split and roared around us, heads down and looking like the terrorists they were. More came from around the bend in the river, each more frightening than the one before. Peaches cried "I got them, I got them on the camera!" I was thinking, what was going to happen if they got us; offer them our money, our guns, our jewelry, our dinghy? What could they possibly want from us? I thought that we both needed to take this and turn it around, grab the guns and show our strength. No one else was here to do it for us. All the warnings and concerns of our friends and families at home were burning in my mind.

Three more boats passed, none of them acknowledging us as is the custom on the ICW. Each seemed more sinister than the last. What was to be our fate?

Then, common sense took over. Why would there be Pirates on the ICW in the middle of the swamps of South Carolina? Why would grown men who weren't commandos or thugs dress like that? Why would grown men travel in open boats in the rain with the temperature in the 40s? Why the hay and corn stalks and the masks?

It was a dark, cold and stormy day in the South Carolina Swamps and we were just passed by a bunch of duck hunters.

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We were excited that we would depart the next day from Hazard Marina. Sue from the office said the turn off of the western channel from Winyah Bay to the ICW was extremely shallow. You need to make it at high tide. She no more than finished her statement than Sandy said "I recently went aground in McClellanville, and you need to make that at high tide. Oh, especially below the town too." Then the Doyle guide we use talked of yet another area near Minim Island that was shallow and needed attention.

I would like to explain the tide in relation to the chart, so you will get the idea better of what we have to do to get this keel boat to Florida! The turn Chris had to make into the ICW had to be on the up side of the high tide. The depth at the entrance is not even labeled on the chart which gives you the big picture. Chris had to hit that area between 0830 and 1058 to pick up an extra four and a half feet in depth on the turn. As Chris made the turn in huge currents, at one point she saw the depth meter at 5'8" and we at least 6'!

Without the tide, we would have been stuck on about 2' of water! You know, they don't tell you this in the books. You have to just learn to anticipate this.

All tides have a bell shaped curve of 8 hours, with the peak after 4 hours. Chris had this period to get through all the shallow water spots. She went through Esterville Minim Creek with about 12' of water, a cushion of about 6'. We saw so many birds today along the edge of the river. I took pictures of all of them, digital you know. They were great egrets. Now I know cormorants, blue herons, snow geese, laughing gulls and now egrets.

We spent our first night Santee Swamp/Marsh, in the southern branch of the Santee River in about 13 feet of water. It was a very early day. We threw the anchor around 1130 am. The next shallow area needed high tide and we would have come through at low. We had the time to properly launch the twin Honda generators. No carbon monoxide detector went off this time, so we got it right. It gave us the option to have heat in the boat overnight and recharge our batteries. The two Honda generators are put on the bow of the boat in open air and all the hatches are closed. The temperature was up to 72 and we shut it off for a while to watch the TV. Then we cycled it on again. When it cycles on, it is like a 747 breaking the sound barrier. Then they go to a low hum.

Based on the weather predictions for the next day for rain and high winds and possible thunder storms, we decided to stay anchored on Sunday. Another sailboat stayed the extra day with us. We relaxed, cooked, read, and went through papers. I worked on the charts while Chris entered figures for our business taxes.

Today we were up at 0715 to leave at 0900 to reach McClellanville at high tide. The planning was extremely successful with the lowest water level of 10' all day. And, by the way high tide was 4.5' at McClelanville. It could have been a big problem. There was a fellow traveler in a large Tartan sailboat behind us for the first half of the day. He took over the lead and Chris really responded quickly when he darted to the left and the right. This is not the easy part of the journey.

We ended the day after about 35 slow miles at ICW mile marker 455. We went into the Dawees Creek anchorage. We then went up no-name creek where Chris found at well protected 20' anchorage. I dropped about 150' of heavy chain. There was a current in the creek and we expected N-NE winds, so there was enough room to move on the anchor. Just as we finished the anchoring, we saw another sailboat enter and pass us.....St. Catherine on her stern. I yelled St. Catherine, she yelled Buffalo. Lots of waves.

We hauled the two generators up onto the bow, filled them with gasoline and rigged the canvas tent over them in case of showers overnight. As we turned around, Chris spotted the first dolphin. Then there were four or five. It is always exciting when you are from Buffalo. The camera just doesn't work fast enough to catch them when they surface. We'll try again tomorrow.

The nights are about 50 and the days are only in the 60s, so Chris and I think we'll skip Charleston this time by. We have both done a lot of business trips there in our past lives and have seen all the sights. We are heading to Beaufort, SC (same name as the NC city but this one is pronounced beau-fort, not bo-furt and will be there for Thanksgiving). We have slowed up the pace and I am finding the trip beautiful and relaxing. Everything on the boat is working.

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Today was a busy but productive day. At 0830 we pulled up the anchor and poked the boat's nose into the lift at Hazzard Marina. I have loaded all the pictures. We watched in fear and trembling as she rose into the air. Not so much green goop as we thought, and most of the VC Offshore was still on the bottom. There were a few scratches on the bottom of the keel, and the offshore paint was off. Surprisingly we forgot that the rudder is almost as long as the keel. It had lost some of the offshore paint also and had only one 1/4 inch scratch through the interprotect 2000. Because this is fiberglass, it was repaired, resealed and repainted. We hung around most of the day (sorry about the pun).

While it was up, I hand cleaned the waterline with Culinite by moving a ladder around and around, going up and down. When everything was clean, I went around and around and up and down and got a couple of coats of wax on the sides as far up as I could reach, and the waterline. It looked like new.

Peaches was over talking with some of the people who were here for repairs and some who were on the way south, but not gone yet. She got some very good information. The next 20-30 miles have some shallow areas, just our draft, so we are using calculators, tide tables and our fingers and toes to get the timing right for high tide. Charts and books, notes Peaches took today and out experience combined will give us the answer. I think it is going to be to leave at 0730. We are ready. We also will be using range markers tomorrow to stay alligned in the deepest chanel. There are lots of currents through the Winyah Bay at Georgetown.
We have a brand new shiny bottom to protect.

We talked about the shrimp industry yesterday. Today I bought shrimp directly off the boat, brought in late last night. I cleaned them, they were huge, and used some lime pepper and panko crumbs and a little canola oil. Amazing. I guess I never really had fresh shrimp before. I noticed that Peaches was no longer talking and just eating. This is the way to live!

Just before we left Myrtle Beach, Frank and Valerie took us to the Burroughs & Champman Art Museum on the beach. It was such a great space, a big beach house (150 tons) moved back off the beach. Big open rooms, windows, and great people .It was saved from the wrecking ball by the Arts and Crafts Guild. Peach really loved the Bassmi exhibit. It is called the Isness of Being. It goes from 10/15/09 through 01/08/2010. They were mixed media, an oil wash and acrylic. Great colors and not something you had to make something out of. You just felt the work. (Chris' words from the review of the exhibit)

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