Stars, Sails - the Parallax View
A family of astronomers at sea... coming soon to a galaxy near you...
A shorter day in Calabash Bay
Heather / sunny 88F / WSW 8 kts
06/03/2012, Calabash Bay,Cape Sta. Maria, Long Is.,Bahamas

Arrived and anchored in Calabash Bay on Long Island, splitting the trip to Rum Cay over two days to avoid arriving at dusk. We'd planned on being out this morning at 6AM but rain was pouring at that time, so we left after it stopped, at eight. Very glad to have a little non-rainy breeze to cool us off now! Derek swam the anchor and we'll all swim and go ashore later. Ham sandwiches for lunch... too hot to cook.

Evening: Had another Happy Hour at the Caper Santa Maria Resort bar, with pina coladas on sale and complementary conch fritters (yummy ones). Grant had a VPC while Derek and I just had the PCs. Great to see the people again, too: Benazir and her fiance are making a trip into Nassau to get materials for their house construction very soon now!

Next morning: left for Rum Cay.

Where's the Rum?
Heather / sunny and 90 F / < 10 kts W
06/02/2012, Kidd's Cove, Elizabeth Harbour, George Town, Exumas, Bahamas

Hot, hot hot today as we left the blessed coolness of the Emerald Bay Marina's clubhouse and (air-conditioned) laundry for 90F/80% humidity/little wind, down to George Town riding two engines and the jib.
And here's the jib

At least the sun is back, which is awfully nice after all the overcast days! The beaches at the northern end of Elizabeth Harbour, especially the ones on Stocking Island, are very alluring when it's sunny...
Wanted to jump into the water to cool off!
Wanted to jump into the water to cool off!

We did provisioning and banking and filled the phone card and got fuel and water, all of the things we had to do in preparation for a less-traveled island next. Our marina-neighbors on Ouf, a lovely French couple heading back to Paris, donated the last of their dinghy fuel to our endeavor, as their boat will be stored at the marina for hurricane season, with a reliable man to maintain it.

We took Grant over to the Grande Isle Resort for lunch one of the days we were at Emerald Bay.
Palapas bar and grill at Grande Isle Resort
Our table at "Pallappa" bar and grill at Grande Isle Resort

On the walk back, I noticed that his legs are getting longer again... it's like he grows in one area at a time, or the limbs stretch out first and then the torso catches up later...
Grant's growing again

To stay cool in the hot and windless weather, we have been working in the clubhouse, which has free ice water and coffee, tea, cocoa, etc. Here's my workspace for that duration:
Heather's computer at the upper desk

And here's Grant's workspace for schoolwork (he gets the corner office):
workspace with a view

Notice the milk crate with all the school materials? There are so many books that it gets heavy. So Grant wheeled the crate back and forth from the boat using a dock cart. Which was OK until the last day...
those finger piers are a little narrow for the dock carts
those finger piers are a little narrow for the dock carts

Derek and Grant rescued the books from the clear waters of Emerald Bay as quickly as they could, but the books got wet on their outer edges (and one book of poetry, very absorbent literature, was utterly ruined). We folded paper towels between the pages and left them all in the clubhouse (lower humidity and cooler) the first night, then yesterday we spread them out in the sun on the foredeck to dry:
drying the books

We will spread them out again when we get to Rum Cay, assuming it's as sunny as it was today. They really need to be well-dried or they could mold.

We are planning on visiting Rum Cay, which is somewhat isolated as Bahamian islands go. It's normally the jumping-off place for the trip to the Turks & Caicos. For us, it will be a revisiting and a jumping-off place for the trip to Conception Island and Cat Island and Eleuthera (the trip back slowly north). The marina there is one we stayed at when it was still very new and under development, and the same husband and wife are still owner/managers there; it will be wonderful to see them again, and to see Rum Cay again, we remember the astonishing beauty of this island from last time.

Emerald Bay Hangout
Heather / sunny and 90 F / < 5 kts E
05/31/2012, Emerald Bay Marina, Great Exuma, Bahamas

The marina at Emerald Bay
The marina at Emerald Bay

We came up from George Town to Emerald Bay on Sunday to get access to free laundry and free wifi and good showers because of my continued bad reaction to the noseeum bites from Long Island -- the hot and swollen perimeter of the outbreak (delayed-type hypersensitivity) was still spreading, even with the steroid cream they had given me for it at the George Town clinic (on Thursday they gave me the cream and an intramuscular cortisone shot, and the injection site then developed its own hot, red, puffy appearance -- ugh!), so on Tuesday I finally saw a doctor at the Steventon clinic (near Emerald Bay). We went to oral prednisone: that was two days ago, and the rash has (finally!) stopped spreading, and seems to be starting to heal. The daily showers and cool air in the clubhouse are helping to keep the inflammation/itching down, and help the cream to work, and I have been able to prepare my next online class (class starts Monday, June 4th) so thoroughly that I was assigned a second section! Weirdly, the second section is supposed to be "duped" from my first section but it may not actually be done until Saturday -- which doesn't give me much time to get it operating before the students get access at midnight on Sunday night.

One of the staff here, Glenroy by name, is amazingly efficient -- we have been trying to get a propane fill since we arrived (four days), we had actually run out of propane and were going to have to leave the marina in search of a fill, and no one else on the staff had been able to secure the cooperation of the propane fill guy who normally drives his truck out here for fills -- Glenroy got him on the phone this morning and managed to convince him to come within 20 minutes. Glenroy is a great asset to the marina at Emerald Bay!

Cat Island Dreaming
Heather / partly sunny and 89 F / 0-5 kts SE
05/26/2012, Elizabeth Harbour, George Town, Exumas, Bahamas

Just got this dandy emailed photo of sunnier days in Calabash Bay, taken by Gina as she and Bruce headed to Conception Island Park on S/V Dreamcatcher (remember the photo in the Calabash Bay post? That was Gina, who had just taken this shot of us! :-). I have placed Dreamcatcher's blog link in the right-side favorites bar on this page...

It's been alternating rain and periods of dead calm for the last two days -- and when it's dead calm it's also hot and humid, and then the noseeums make the long flight out to the boats to feast on the flesh of the living... not sure what they eat the rest of the time. I am supposed to avoid getting bitten by them any more, since my arm has a dreadful rash from the last noseeum attack (Stella Maris, two weeks ago).

Today we left the sheltered area between the St. Francis and Volleyball Beach and headed across to Kidd's Cove anchorage to provision; we have a lot of laundry to do, and the holiday weekend coming means there will be no laundry available here until Tuesday. That and it's very expensive doing larger loads here, so it makes more sense to take the whole show up to Emerald Bay, where there's free laundry, excellent showers, free wifi (here in George Town we generally have to pay if we want reliable wifi service on the boat), and a nice clubhouse with endless coffee/tea/cocoa. There's also SE 15 predicted for tomorrow, which will mean we can sail it, a nice plus. All those features at Emerald Bay add up, so it's more than worth the dockage of $1/ft/nt on the "no-service" dock. Stocked up on water and food at Exuma Market, sucked the bank account down a bit because after Emerald Bay we are headed to Cat Island, and many of the islands are short on banks but operate on a cash basis, so it's best to have some.

OK, that's the update for now. You don't need more pictures of George Town, do you? :-)

George Town to The Jumentos: the less-traveled isles
Heather / overcast and 82F / SE 15
05/23/2012, Flamingo Cay, The Jumentos, Bahamas

On Saturday we left George Town and headed SE to Hog Cay Cut to visit a less-frequented island chain in the shallow banks south of the Exumas, called the Jumentos. They lead all the way down to Ragged Island (close to Cuba).
Jumentos

The 7-day Windfinder forecast was unexciting: winds very low for many days, with little to no sunshine. The good part of that is that the winds would not be on the nose and they were expected to "fill in" from the SE after a few days, so we could sail back. Also, Derek was getting cabin fever waiting around George Town for the weather to improve.

Few cruisers go to the Jumentos. The most direct route is via the Hog Cay Cut, which is around 2' depth at low water over a "hard bar" (rock, not sand), and then at least half a mile of 3' depth. So, stay away from low tides for this one. We anchored out at Elizabeth Island the night before, so as to get as close to high tide at the cut as we could without doing the first leg in the dark. As it was, the lowest we registered going through the cut was 0.5 feet below the keel, but that's enough to make me grit my teeth. It was a beautiful approach, though, and Saturday was only partly cloudy, so the sun shone on our endeavors occasionally:
Hog Cay Cut into Jumentos as seen from Sound-side
Hog Cay Cut into Jumentos as seen from Sound-side

Our first stop was Water Cay. The wind was coming from an unexpected direction at that point, sort of NE, and that's not the best protection for the Water Cay anchorages... in fact, the southern one of the two was very unattractive, so we wound up anchoring at the northern anchorage to avoid the swells, near a bright red fishing boat with a white cabin superstructure. The local fishermen were sheltering from the rain when we got there.

The next morning they were using a smaller boat to go spear fishing, bringing the catch back to the larger boat. Derek also went spearfishing as an addendum to a snorkeling trip we took, and brought back a triggerfish. I made a creamy seafood chowder with it, which was very nice given the often-rainy weather. But then the wind died entirely for a while, although you could see that the weather was still gathering itself for something:
sea like glass, sky like something coming
It did make the surface as clear as blue-tinted glass, though, which was fun for viewing! Once the fishermen pulled out, we had remoras around our anchored boat:
playful remoras
playful remoras

These were soon followed by nurse sharks, which liked to hang out near the dinghy:
nurse sharks near dinghy
more

One of the smaller remoras was trying to form a relationship with a nurse shark. That means attaching upside-down, though, since a nurse shark spends most of its time hanging out and hunting on the bottom:
remora upside-down on nurse shark

We even had a young barracuda (3 feet or thereabouts) checking us out, patrolling around the boat, possibly for fish scraps:
young barracuda

That afternoon, after the small local boat was gone, a larger boat, Southern Style, with outriggers, pulled up to the coral bank for the night... apparently for several nights, actually. There's a small fleet of these hefty fishing boats, all named "Southern" something -- Southern Comfort, Southern Style...
Southern Style, a commercial fishing vessel, anchored of f Water Cay
Southern Style, a commercial fishing vessel, anchored of f Water Cay

The next day we enjoyed the cut in the middle of Water Cay that fills a natural pool on the banks side at high tide and dries at low. It was about the only sun we saw while in the Jumentos:
exploring the shallow narrow cut through Water Cay
Exploring the shallow narrow cut through Water Cay

The natural sandy-bottomed pool on the banks side of that cut is a great place to bask:
Natural sandy pool at Water Cay cut
Natural sandy pool at Water Cay cut

After that we headed to Flamingo Cay, a 2.5-hour trip south along the cays. It has a nice snug anchorage at the northern end called Two Palms (a beach between two rocky headlands, protected from N - SE but open to SW and W). It's the more northerly of the two "anchor" symbols on this chart:
Flamingo Cay chart

Can you guess why they call it Two Palms?
Two palms anchorage, Flamingo Cay

The wind was still light when we got there, and Derek swam the anchor (in fact, he swam the whole anchorage, locating good holding in deeper sand closer to shore than we had originally thought to anchor). You can see that with the wind in the expected easterly orientation, we were happily facing the beach, with the rocky promontories on either side protecting us from stray swells:
dug in and properly facing the beach

So we were pretty snugly set when a 60-foot power boat ("20 Percent," hailing port Naples, FL, captained by Jeff with five guys aboard for fishing and diving) arrived and anchored in the next anchorage -- one beach south of ours, with a rocky point almost between us: we could see them because the wind was from the east. But then things got ugly: storm clouds gathered, lightning came more and more often, rain happened intermittently, it got dark, and the wind swung around to the SW. These anchorages are wide open to anything W of south. You do not want to be there for a strong westerly. We had a forecast, no westerlies were expected. So what we were seeing had put itself together in the last four days.

It was a bumpy night. Derek was not pleased that the wind was blowing strongly from an unprotected direction, blowing us toward a lee shore with a long fetch of open water to make waves rise. Through the night, although the other boat was behind the point from our new position (both of us now NE of our anchors rather than W of them as we swung on our anchor chains to face into the wind), their anchor light was some kind of comfort. We could see by the lightning flashes that although the surf was crashing against the rocky shore, our anchor was holding well. In the morning, I dinghied over to check with the other boat. Jeff had contacted his weather advisor in Ft Lauderdale by satellite phone, and was told the easterly trades should re-establish themselves over the next two days, with 15-20 kts by Thursday. So we stayed the day and explored Flamingo Cay -- there is an amazing cave at the south end of the second beach, inside a big humpy bluff that sticks out into the water and just looks like it might be hiding a cave!
humpy bluff hiding a cave

It had a large overhang all around the edges:
overhang

Closer... you can see the entrance...
Entrance to the Flamingo Cay cave
Entrance to the Flamingo Cay cave

And the light dawns!
Flamingo Cay cave lighted

Inside, it's so huge you can take a dinghy into it and hold a barbecue (or church service) for twenty, if that takes your fancy:
dinghy in cave vestibule
Dinghy in cave vestibule

You can see the conch shells previous visitors have used to decorate the walls and floor:
Interior Flamingo Cay cave

Derek speared two more fish, another trigger and a Nassau grouper. Delicious! He also brought back two large mature conchs. However, Grant made him return the conchs to the seabed, as Grant likes them and doesn't want to eat them. One of the conchs (the larger one) had a small fish hiding in its shell, a little like a brown-tinted goldfish. Apparently these are a species of small cardinal fish (astropogon stellatus) that has a commensal relationship with the queen conch. Here is an image of one from "Community Conch":
Cardinal fish AKA conch fish, image from Community Conch

The next day we were going to stay and snorkel, but the weather was queer and not at all what had been forecast, with light winds but still very cloudy and a swell building from the south, and we began to get the uneasy feeling that it was time to get out of there. Don't ignore your feelings when it comes to weather, if you live on a boat. We started preparations to leave (pulling up the engine and mounting it on the engine mount on the stern rail, emptying the dinghy and lifting it onto the stern davits, cleaning and stowing everything that might get tossed around in a seaway: we were expecting it to be rough for the part where we had to go NE.

Jeff and his group took off for the reef on the north-facing side of Flamingo Cay, and about an hour after he left, he called us; we were finishing preparations for leaving. He said that it was far rougher than he'd expected and so he'd called his weather advisor again, and as a result he would be leaving the Jumentos and heading up to Little Farmer's Cay as soon as his divers came up. We told him we were leaving as well. When we left, the divers were still down, but with a powerboat that size, he was probably in Little Farmer's by mid-afternoon.

We covered in one day going north the distance we had covered in two going south. Our biggest concern was making it over the hard bar at Hog Cay Cut with possible waves. Fortunately, the cays sheltered the shallows and we never saw less than 6 inches of water beneath our keel. Yes, 0.5 feet. Told ya it was shallow...

Made it back to Elizabeth Harbour as the sun was setting, followed our GPS tracks as they had been laid down, to avoid coral. We picked up a mooring in a sheltered spot off of Chat 'n' Chill. Next morning we moved even farther in to avoid southerly swells.

Stella Maris to George Town: At Long Last Fish
Heather / overcast and 82F / SE 8
05/15/2012, Elizabeth Harbour, George Town, Exumas, Bahamas

We had a fun three-night stay at the Stella Maris Marina (on the leeward side of Long Island), using the facilities at the Stella Maris Resort on the windward side of Long Island.
view from the seaward side of Long Island at Stella Maris Resort
view from the seaward side of Long Island at Stella Maris Resort

Good thing, too, because the noseeums (tiny biting midges. Don't try screening your ports, they will just land on the screen and walk right through the mesh! Be Afraid) make keeping your ports and hatches closed mandatory. First time since Key West that we used the air conditioning, and what a blessing it was... as you probably can guess, with the sun shining and very little wind, it quickly gets well above 90F in a closed boat. With the A/C running on the differential between air and water temperature, we were able to keep it down to about 82 during the day, and as low as 78 at night.

The resort will shuttle marina guests over to their facilities and in return the marina guests often spend money at the resort's restaurant, snack bar, or wherever. They have a beautiful boardwalk along the seaward side:
boardwalk at Stella Maris Resort

leading from the "Moonshine" pool and palapa bar/grill to a natural saltwater wave pool that's a really clever design! The water comes in at the southern side at a slightly higher elevation of coral platform, driven by the waves,
inflow

and swirls through the pool from south to north, where it exits again at a lower elevation.
seawater wave pool

So it can actually be used as an "endless pool" if you get right into the deepest spot in front of the incoming current (as the woman in this picture started doing while we were there):
natural seawater wave pool at Stella Maris Resort
natural seawater wave pool at Stella Maris Resort

Derek and Grant discovered that a kind of golden seaweed was getting washed into the pool, and they started throwing balls of it at one another:
Action shot: Derek needs to work on his aim...
Action shot: Derek needs to work on his aim...

Retribution is swift...
Grant attacks!!!
Grant attacks!!!

Ah, the utter peace of a seaside vacation...
Grant in retreat after a seaweed strafing run
Grant in retreat after a seaweed strafing run

More people came along and started horsing around (see? it's contagious!), and we retired to the Moonshine to have some food. The drinks came quickly, and the mango daiquiri started out about the size of my head. I had to slurp it down as fast as possible to keep it from overflowing the sides, and I even had to enlist help from Derek (who was already enjoying his usual Kalik, but bravely pitched in):
mango daiquiri, half gone and barely contained
monster mango daiquiri, half subdued

The resort's main building is at the top of the hill, with a view to the sea in both directions. It's low-key and nicely maintained:
Grant in front of Stella Maris Resort main building

and has many places to sit around enjoying the ambiance:
palapas are a theme

we walked around the neighborhood and noticed many German and Austrian names among the property owners; also many German-speaking guests at the resort itself. Here's the memorial to the founder, which may be in itself a bit of an explanation:
Stella Maris founder's memorial

We also took a beach-snorkel trip, they are free each day:
Grant and Derek at Calabash Bay beach mystery spot

We left the marina Monday morning, with the wind about 10 kts from ESE, we were even able to sail under main and jib for much of the way at about 4.1 kts, and Derek hopefully put out a line as we crossed from shallow to deep water. About halfway across the deep water, he discovered that he had something ON that line. Always in the past this has been more of that golden seaweed, but this time whatever was on there was swimming sideways:
something's on

Having read far too many cruising-sailor books, I was ready with the vodka. Derek's barracuda was big, but to keep the flopping and violence to a minimum, just apply copious amounts of vodka to the gill area:
vodka on gills makes fish pass out fast

The mighty hunter!
barracuda. 36 inches

The barracuda was 36" long when we tape-measured him. The danger of ciguatera means Heather will be the canary and try a little bit first, cooked, to see if any symptoms develop. The reasoning is that since I'm usually the weakest stomach in the group, if I'm OK, they will be too.

Eventually the wind died and clouds got thicker on the western horizon, with rain obviously falling from individual clumps of cloud. We had to pull in the jib and start up the engines again, and with the engines both running, we made about 4.8 kts toward George Town for the last 2.5 hours of the trip (5 kts after the tide turned).

While Derek waited for a work-related phone call, we seemed to pass between two rain squalls on our approach to Elizabeth Harbour without actually being pounded by the wet stuff:
The rain that Parallax missed - thanks be!


Cape Santa Maria to Stella Maris
Heather / sunny and 86 F / 10 kts E
05/12/2012, Stella Maris Marina, Long Island, Bahamas

Sorry for the break, we didn't get internet access at our first landfall (Cape Santa Maria at the northern end of Long Island, Bahamas -- ENE of George Town across the Exuma Sound).

The anchorage, Calabash Bay, is good in winds with an easterly component, although NE would be rolly. In SW, it starts to get choppy, even sheltered as it is somewhat by the large patch reefs along the W side -- there are too many gaps in those patches and the high tides leave them under too much water to really stop all the swells -- just shuts down the bigger stuff.

Our first day from George Town, it was light winds on the nose, so until it went a bit southeasterly, we had to motor. After a couple of hours, we could raise a sail, but it only added about 0.5 kt to our progress, so we motorsailed it. We entered the bay, which is one cove south of the Cape, around 4 pm and anchored in 6-8' over white sand, closer to the Cape Santa Maria Club than to the patch reefs, to cut the swell. It was comfortable, and we visited the club for happy hour, but that night, the wind went S and then SW (unexpected), and raised a chop so that the next morning was a bit bumpy. But it calmed down by noon the next day:
calm anchorage in Calabash Bay. See the swells from the north breaking on the patch reef in the distance?
Calm anchorage in Calabash Bay. See the swells from the north breaking on the patch reef in the distance?

By midday Thursday, it had gone from 12 kts to "light" and the anchorage was relatively comfortable again, and Dream Catcher (Island Packet 45) came in from the south, anchoring inshore of us -- we had met Gina and Bruce at George Town at the Dinghy Drift we and Flying Cloud and Timaru had attended a couple of weeks before! We said hi and arranged to meet them at the club for happy hour that evening, and then went snorkeling, with Derek scouting the locations before all of us got into the water. We came back and Derek scrubbed the hulls a bit while I did a whites laundry using the 5-gallon bucket and the "plunger washer" we'd gotten, using the rinse water to thoroughly wash the back deck as well.

The Cape Santa Maria Club is a nice resort with villas and quads, serving B-L-D (kind of expensive as dinners go, $24 - $42 for entrees), with a bar menu as well ($14 for chicken quesadillas, $4.50 for Happy Hour drinks, a lot more for special blender drinks), and during Happy Hour they also serve conch fritters, gratis. We had a lovely time catching up with Gina and Bruce! Since they were headed north and we were headed south, it was a brief mariners' gam, the next morning dream catcher got underway first, passing our stern as we blew them a conch salute:
Dream Catcher getting underway
Dream Catcher, with Gina and Bruce, getting underway from Calabash Bay

And here's a view just for you, Gina and Bruce:
Dream Catcher in Calabash Bay, Long Island, Bahamas
Dream Catcher in Calabash Bay, Long Island, Bahamas

We left Friday also, heading south toward Stella Maris, in almost no wind at all. Hard to believe it's ocean, huh?
With no wind, the wake is visible for a long way
With no wind, our wake is visible for a long way

On the way southward, we stopped at noon for a break. Derek and Grant and I went for a snorkel at the entrance to Joe's Sound, at the rocks. Derek went one way with his spear, and Grant went another; I was just along to actually snorkel, so I got into the dinghy after about 40 minutes -- it's not a gigantic reef or anything, and I had seen all of it three times. Along a shallow trench just south of the rocks, Grant met a big barracuda, about the size of a full-gown person's leg from foot to butt. A bit on the scary side: he hopped into the dinghy after his spearfishing expedition and said in a high (amused) voice, "I'm gonna need some new swim trunks!" He also mentioned that even a 4-foot spear felt like a Tinkertoy when faced with that thing. It was just doing the usual inquisitive barracuda things, though (still, he felt much better getting back into the boat after that).

As you turn in toward Stella Maris Marina from the waypoint, the going will start to get shallow. This was on a falling tide; the right-hand depth gauge is more reliable, and it measures depth under the keel, to which you'd need to add 3' to get the total water depth [UPDATE: Going back out the same route just after low tide (0.9' above datum) we saw as little as 0.1 feet below the keel!!! This is NOT a marina accessible by a 6' draft. Even if your draft is only 4' you probably want to go in settled weather near high tide! We draw 3' and probably touched sand a couple of times going out again. I'd include a picture of that 0.1', but my fingers were welded to the wheel at the time and I couldn't ask Derek to bring out my camera, because I would have had to have been able to unclench my jaw to do that...]:
depth under keel

There are stakes and small markers, all should be left not very far to port. I would not want to do this entrance in a draft over 5'. We were not going in at high tide, the lowest we saw was about 1.6 feet beneath the keel (4.6 total), so high tide would be a big YES for anyone with a 5' draft. Our GPS had the markers farther to the south than they actually were, for what it's worth.

Once inside, it's deeper and well-protected:
Stella Maris Marina
Stella Maris Marina entrance from inside

They also have travelift capabilities; they are apparently the last place before Providenciales (Turks and Caicos) that does:
Travelift track at Stella Maris
Travelift track at Stella Maris

When you check in to the marina, which faces the shallows on the west side of Long Island, there are all sorts of things that come with it.... shower and lounge there, small pool, free rides to the Stella Maris Resort on the windward (Atlantic) side and use of their pools and beaches (nice thing, because the noseeums make water sports right at the marina a less-than-popular choice). There is a laundry beside the marina, it is closed Saturdays but open other days. There is also a Scotia Bank nearby.

Friday being our anniversary, we went to the resort for dinner; they have a Friday Rake'n'Scrape (actually one troubador with a guitar, but he's good), which includes a rum punch party with free rum punch and conch fritters (and these are really GOOD conch fritters: light and tasty, the best we have had in the Bahamas this trip). This is all a lead-up to the buffet, which is good (steak, fish, several kinds of salad and side dishes) -- we had dinner with a very nice Canadian couple who had recently purchased a home nearby, and who are (as usual!) waiting for the paperwork to go through. Very nice people, and a fun way to spend an anniversary dinner!

I'm going to go scratch my noseeum bites for a while now. They could drive a person mad!!!

In the Still of the Days...
Heather / sunny and 85 F / E - SSE var
05/07/2012, Elizabeth Harbour, George Town, Exumas, Bahamas

After all that bluster a week ago, the last two days the wind has gone to "light and variable" and the surface of the harbor is so free of waves or even ripples that the bottom can be clearly seen. We moved from Kidd Cove over to Monument Beach for the beach BBQ Saturday evening, stayed Sunday to partake of the Pig Roast at the Chat 'n' Chill, snorkeled a blue hole in Hole 3 of Stocking Island, and checked out the Peace 'n' Plenty Beach Club ($10 for one pina colada. It was an OK pina, but honestly...!)

The blue hole was good: Hole 3 is a non-liveaboard mooring field, but despite the no-discharge zone, the water is still rather cloudy. It's "dive center" name is Angel Blue Hole, just as Hole 3's chart name is "Cleaning Hole." There is also an entrance to a vast underwater cave complex that runs beneath Stocking Island and the surrounding seabed there, it's dubbed "Mystery Cave" -- but there are other entrances to the same complex. not really our issue, since we were snorkeling. We could see the blue hole about 25 feet below us, a sinkhole with one wall collapsed, leading down at an angle, with cooler water coming up from it. There were flying formations of spotted eagle rays, three at a time and each about 3' across, large formations of spadefish (dinner-plate sized and looking a bit like striped angelfish, they are said to be quite tasty!), and other large fish, popping in from the ocean for a little rest and relaxation in Hole 3.

It was eerily still on Sunday. Our dinghy hung suspended in liquid blue off the stern:
dinghy in calm at Monument Beach anchorage

And the Sunday evening sunset was calm enough to be on some inland lake:
George Town Monument Beach sunset

This morning (Monday) is election day in the Bahamas. PLP and FNM and even a few DNA party flags are fluttering from cars all over the street, people are wearing the colored tee shirt of their party (or just a clothing accent of the appropriate color: red for the incumbent "conservative" FNM, yellow for the PLP -- the biggest challengers -- and green for the Democratic National Alliance, the latest third party). Places that sell liquor are closed until after 6 pm (after the polls close), but the Driftwood Cafe (run by an Uruguayan lady) was open. We put the wash in at the Corner Laundry and headed for the cafe for a tasty sandwich before the dryer was done. Their cafe is cool and comfortable and plays classical music, and they have many delicious things to eat. I had organic roast beef grilled panini with mushrooms and cheese, Derek had a salame sub -- both very good! We brought spanakopita (spinach pies with fillo crust) back to the boat for Grant. We also brought groceries, many gallons of water (in our collapsible water jugs: Exuma Markets provides R/O water at the dinghy dock as a courtesy for cruisers), 10 gallons of diesel and 5 gallons of gasoline for the dinghy motor.

The reason for the stocking up on fuel and water is that we are heading over to Long Island (no, the one in the Bahamas) tomorrow for a couple of days. We will start in the north, at Calabash Sound, and then the next day head south towards the Stella Maris Marina.

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