Global Voyageur

Be a virtual voyager - join the tartan navy to follow the Mackays on their return to Scotland

21 June 2012 | Clyde Marina, Ardrossan
20 June 2012 | North Channel, Irish Sea
17 June 2012 | Bay of Biscay
15 June 2012 | Coruna Marina, La Coruna
14 June 2012 | Marina Coruna, La Coruna
13 June 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
12 June 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
09 June 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
07 June 2012 | Ponta Delgaga
06 June 2012 | Ponta Delgada
04 June 2012 | Angra
02 June 2012 | Horta, Faial
01 June 2012 | Horta , Faial
28 May 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
25 May 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
24 May 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
23 May 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
22 May 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
21 May 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean
20 May 2012 | North Atlantic Ocean

A walk in the woods and a last lobster lunch in Cape Town...

06 January 2011 | Hout Bay Marina, South Africa
Susan Mackay
It is the last day with our hire car and David and I suddenly realise that that the time has come to make choices. Do we have a last lunch at one of the many fantastic wineries within easy driving distance of our base here in Hout Bay or do we do something less sophisticated but nonetheless enjoyable and what is more, healthy, go for a good long walk to stretch those legs that are going to be going nowhere for the best part of a month, with a lunch at a favourite venue in Cape Town. The latter option won, but only because we were held up for over an hour at the fuel pontoon. In spite of the fact that we were told it was open from 6am, by 9am there was no sign of life. Of course David and I had set our alarm for 6.45am and we waited patiently, well maybe in David's case not so patiently for the office to open. Once more secured to our pontoon, and believe me it takes us at least half an hour to make sure that we are indeed safely secured, we decided to walk in Constantia Woods, part of the Table Mountain National Park, as by now the morning was nearly half over, the sun was rising high, it was going to be another scorching hot day and the original plan to walk Lions Head in the lee of Table Mountain had to be abandoned. It will have to wait until next time. We drove along Rhodes Drive towards Cape Town knowing that this would be the last time we would drive along this lovely road, this time around anyway. Towering pines and cork trees gave a lovely shade. With the sun's intensity bringing out the smells of the woodland, we breathed in deeply, savouring the aromas. The pine was overpowering. We saw our last view of False Bay and beyond. The ocean was completely calm. The dunes dazzling white against a background of startling blue South African sky, Cape Hangklip and Cape Point seen just and no more in a haze of heat. We drove past Government Square, and on past Green Market Square with the lively and colourful daily Afrikaans market, along the waterfront and pitched up at Panama Jack's, in Elliot Basin, as always one of the most popular places in town (we had booked ahead) ordered lobster and Two Oceans wine. Two Oceans is very budget priced but perfectly palatable. I particularly love the connotation, the Indian and Atlantic coming together in one blend. What a wonderful day on which to leave Cape Town.

Rally Revival!

02 January 2011 | Hout Bay Marina, South Africa
Susan Mackay
The sun shines out of a clear blue sky. Paul and Suzana returned today from an icy cold Britain. Here the temperatures are into the high thirties, the hottest yet. They joined us for a sundowner, along with Basia. They have a new crew member on board, Les, who will help them sail their boat to Brazil. But there are only nine boats from the rally here, less than half. Spring cleaning came early to Voyageur. I have spent the last two days with my head upside in lockers.... cleaning. Then all the cushion covers were washed. The new genoa was delivered on time. Everything is in order. Voyageur is like a new pin. We are all set to go..... A champagne and mussels reception held at the yacht club was an excellent start to World Arc 2011. The mussels, in a delicious cream and mushroom sauce were cooked by local yacht club members. David and I had an early night, the day had been very hot, 38 degrees C, and we had worked on deck most of the day.

We thought we were saving the last tasting with the best. With Jenny, John, Chris and Leila we rolled up to Asara wine estate, a few kilometres from Stellenbosch. Lining the driveway leading up to this sumptuous establishment, huge heads of bright blue Agapanthus bend over in their greeting. Smart straight as a dye rows of vines stretch far into the distance. At the end of each row a single rose bush is planted. This is not merely for ornamental purposes but to keep away pests which favour the roses rather than the vines. The quality of the tasting rooms and surroundings just gets better and better but the lunch at their restaurant, Raphael's, was having an off day. Although the food was fabulous, the service was not. I had but one last winery on my wish list, Delaire, and this one is as good as it gets and every bit worth the extra 20 minute drive to get there. From its beautiful wrought iron gates at the entrance, the drive winds its way uphill through pristine landscaped borders, a botanical garden in itself, on past a parade of oak trees, and voila! we arrive to behold a stunning view of the Groot Drackenstein and Simonsig Mountains. Wow! As we retraced our steps back down to the main road I noted the Agapanthus were beginning to wilt. Along with the Bougainvillea, Hibiscus, Jacaranda, Oleander, Geraniums and Roses, their summer flowering is coming to an end. We have had the most wonderful two month stay here in South Africa but perhaps it is now time to be leaving after all.....

Oh, you poor blog less followers as my brother Peter puts it in a plaintive email. He was getting tired of looking at Blog Holiday! Missing the blog were you? Well, I promised it would come thick and fast once the New Year was over and I think and hope I have since delivered. Now we have to get down to the serious business of passage planning, David's department, provisioning, mine, and preparing for a long sea journey. Trouble is we have simply been too busy enjoying ourselves. This country has a lot to offer the tourist and while we have endeavoured to do and see as much as we could in the short time available it is simply not possible to do and see it all. David and I chose this route to sail around the world not just because we had no desire to go through the Gulf of Aden once more but because we could visit South Africa. It has lived up to our expectations and more. When I think how hard it was to get here, looking back we can regret none of it. I always said I would never sail here again but our two months here have proved once again that bad memories are short lived while the good times and happy memories endure..... It has been a most wonderful experience.

I am so sad about leaving South Africa. I think that David and I have enjoyed our time here almost more than anywhere else. We have stocked up on Rooibos tea, our favourite non alcoholic tipple, filled Voyageur's cave with our favourite and bade farewell to our friends. Now we face 3600nm of ocean with a three day stop at St. Helena if we are lucky and it is a daunting prospect for us.

HAPPY NEW YEAR from Hout Bay!

01 January 2011 | Hout Bay Marina, South Africa
Susan Mackay
On New Year's Eve we dined at Luigi's, a local Italian restaurant with Jenny and John and their daughter and partner, Leila and Chris who have joined Tzigane to sail from here to Brazil. Then we welcomed in the New Year's at the Hout Bay Yacht Club along with Ariane and Basia and Anna and Udo from Destiny. The theme was music from the sixties, seventies and eighties and feeling nostalgic we all danced the night away. We woke to pouring rain, early on New Year's morning, the first since arriving here from Richards Bay, and wind from the north-west but it did not last too long. By lunchtime it was once more hot and sunny, not a breath of wind. It is hard to believe it is the same place of two nights ago. Basia invited us for sundowners and then for once David and I had a quiet night. On the 2nd Tzigane hosted a rum punch party and then it was Voyageur's turn. Eight of us sat down to a buffet style lunch, setting a new record for the longest lunch party ever during which we played a rather riotous game of Jenga. Apologies to the other boats around us! I am much too embarrassed to say how many bottles of wine were consumed! It is just as well we plan at least one more wine tasting session with Tzigane before we leave South Africa!
Vessel Name: VOYAGEUR
Vessel Make/Model: Amel Super Maramu 2000
Hailing Port: Rhu, Scotland
Crew: Susan and David Mackay
About:
David first learned to sail on a Loch Fyne day boat out of Helensburgh Sailing Club on the River Clyde in his mid twenties. With the arrival of a family he did not do any more, until in 1984 we bought our first boat, “The Golden Soak”, a Matilda 20. [...]

Our motto:Carpe Diem

Who: Susan and David Mackay
Port: Rhu, Scotland