Surprise
10/29/2008, Drawaqa Island, Yasawa Islands, Fiji

This lovely spot has some of the best fish snorkeling we've found. We're told that the giant Manta Rays come here during the summer on a regular basis; but they had gone for the season before we arrived. The snorkeling is between two islands in a narrow pass that has a strong tidal current; the entire area is a marine preserve and all forms of taking fish and anchoring are prohibited. The fish are amazing, completely unconcerned about people. The Admiral has been busy checking off 3-4 new fish in her book every time we went in the water.

The "resort" at Manta Ray Bay is just a step above the backpacker lodges; food is good but not fancy, and a young crowd, partying late.

We are now about 10 miles south on the west coast of Waya Island at Octopus Resort, a notch above Manta, and one below the Blue Lagoon. A beautiful anchorage with sand bottom and beaches and nice shore facilities. The contrast between the local villages and the "resorts" couldn't be more striking; the villages are all about gathering food, the resorts all about getting a tan. For the guided visits to the villages the tourists women are reminded to cover their shoulders and knees, men to remove their hats; at the resort it is all about how much skin you can expose.

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Surprise
10/23/2008, Somo somo Bay, Yasawa Islands, Fiji

We picked our way about 11 miles south from Blue Lagoon yesterday to Somosomo, a large open bay with a fairly large village. Local custom requires visiting yachts to promptly visit and get permission from the local chief to anchor and visit the village; this is the "sevu sevu" ceremony we've mentioned. When we landed at the beach we were met by Meri and Vini (left and right in photo), two teenage girls who helped us drag the dingy up and took us to see the assistant Chief, as the boss was out of town. We were escorted into a "bure" or hut. We all sat cross legged on the floor, feet under us, and Susan laid our gift of kava root in front of the Chief. He said a few words, then picked it up and clapped. This is the signal that our gift is acceptable. A few more words in Fijian, and ritual hand clapping, and we were free to go. In some cases there is kava brewing, and then you are in for an hour or so of toasts.

Susan went back in this morning in response to Vini's invitation to join them for tea and roti, a local pan bread. While touring after tea, and taking photos, she was asked if she had "medicine." A toddler had wandered into a cooking fire, and had badly burned feet. I said I would return with what we had, as Vini and Meri wanted to see the boat. Steve wondered at my taking our only tube of Silvadene, but he hadn't seen the kid's feet. The parents weren't uncaring; they had carried him to the nurse at the village some distance to the south, who had given them neomycin. But then the local women had "burned some leaves" and applied them, as I found out when trying to clean up his feet. Alcohol swabs, sobbing child, Silvadene, "moist skin" burn bandages, gauze and tape-then strict injunctions to not let it get dirty and not burn any more leaves. I also urged a visit to the doctor in Lautoka, but a boat ride is probably pretty expensive for them. Practicing without a license-just one more cruising adventure.

We went back in this afternoon to give them the prints of the photos Susan had taken and some supplies for the pre-school teacher; the photos were a big deal in the village. They draw an immediate crowd, and we always feel bad that we don't have photos of everyone. Vini, our hostess, had a great time distributing the photos.

Back in early tomorrow morning to pick up paw paw (papaya) before we weigh anchor for the next bay/village/adventure.

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Surprise
10/21/2008, Blue Lagoon, Yasawa Islands, Fiji

We arrived on Friday--today is Wednesday--you'd think we like it here! Blue water, protected anchorage, not too crowded and a nearby resort for meals out. We've been to six or seven great snorkeling sites, so today we tried a dive. First time on this trip, as the Admiral has trouble clearing her ears, and can slow a group down. But no problem today; perhaps all the snorkeling and free diving has helped. We were at 35 to 50' along a wall. Amazing variety of corals and reef fishes, one lonely black tip shark, and a large turtle that zoomed by. So wonderful we'll have to do it again. Our friends on Destiny have left the anchorage but we met a nice couple from Seattle on holiday at the resort, so we've not lacked for company. But the Yasawa's have lots of nice anchorages to be explored, so we'll move on soon.

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