Adventures of North Star

Follow the Adventures of Kim and Steve aboard their yacht North Star!

09 July 2019
08 July 2019
04 July 2019
02 July 2019
31 May 2019 | Copra Shed, Savusavu, Fiji
28 March 2018
05 March 2018 | Queenstown view from the top of the gondola.
21 May 2016 | Tahiti, French Polynesia
14 September 2015
12 September 2015 | In Maupiti
17 August 2015 | Huahine, French Polynesia
13 July 2015 | Anyse Amyot-North End of Taou
20 June 2015 | Fakarava-South Pass
18 June 2015 | Fakarava-South Pass
11 June 2015 | Fakarava-South, Harifa
06 June 2015 | Fakarava, North Pass

Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva and Tahuata

27 June 2014
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Hiva Oa,Fatu Huva and Tahuata

We arrived in Hiva Oa mid morning after the 17 day passage. What a beautiful sight the anchorage was with its 400 foot waterfall and the 40 foot rock that looked like a face situated on the left side of the bay. We make jokes that a rock with a safe anchorage behind it after 17 days would be beautiful, but this place was truly beautiful and smelled of greenery and tiare flowers. The tiare flower is a white flower with four petals that smelled like a jasmine/gardenia. A fresh and clean smell.
We got into the water right away to clean off any gooseneck barnacles that we had picked up on the passage. We did trail a line the last few days to. Help prevent this but we only had barnacles under the transom and the line would not reach this area anyway. We heard if these are not removed quickly they are very difficult to remove. We also did a wash down to remove the caked on salt and washed up the dirty sheets and clothes from the passage.
We were anchored in Hanaiapa Bay. This bay is on the opposite side of the island from the main town Atuona. We chose this location because we heard Atuona was rolly, crowded, a stern anchor is needed, and some kind of metal grated had slid down into the anchorage and some boats were having trouble retrieving their anchor. Our friends, Elysium and Cetacea, were also on their way to this anchorage. Elysium arrived the next day and Cetacea a few days later. The people in Hanaiapa were very giving and extremely friendly. A quick walk through the small village and as we returned to the boat we were given almost more fruit than we could carry. Mangos, limes, corrosol, bananas by the stalk, Pom cete and papalomouse, a giant grapefruit, were among the gifts.
Our first trip to town to clear customs was an eye opener. The seven mile as a bird flies but 28 mile by car trip cost 178 US dollars. When we arrived at customs our agent that was to meet us was not there. We met some other cruisers that had been there since eight waiting for the same agent and they told us they had been trying to clear in for the last eight days. We hoped at 178 a trip we would be able to get everything completed in one day, and luckily, we did. The town of Atuona consisted of one main street with a post office, a few stores that are fairly well stocked, a bank, a Tahiti air office, and a snack shop. There are also a few restaurants. We ate at the PearLodge twice. The food was good and of average price for the island, which means pretty expensive, but the view and the grounds were amazing. The owner speaks some English and will pick up cruisers in town, at the harbor or even where we were in Haniapa and return you. This is a very nice service especially at the taxi rates.
The Bay in Haniapa was busy with dolphins flipping and manta rays soaring on the surface. We went snorkeling and saw several of the mantas and a cowrie shell that is know to be in the area.
We made the decision to sail or motor to windward back in the rough seas to Fatu Hiva. Many cruisers make this their first stop on the way from the Galapagos although it is not an official port of entry. When we were three days away from Fatu Hiva, we heard all of the boats that had not cleared in were told to leave. There were also rumors of fines and alcohol confiscation by the officials. We decided to clear into Hiva Oa first and then backtrack to Fatu Hiva mostly because we had the long stay visa and it can be revoked so we did not want to take any chances. We left Hiva Oa very early in the morning to make. The most difficult part of the 60 mike run when the winds and hopefully, the seas were lower. Twenty to twenty five knots of wind and big confused seas is what we got. It was a rough five hours or so. After we got around the island we were able to put up a sail, turn off the engine and settle the boat down. Fatu Huva, Hanavave Bay, is one of the most photographed anchorages in sail magazines and said to be one of the most beautiful in the world. Iris most certainly beautiful. Not only is it beautiful but also dramatic. The bay is now called the bay of virgins. At one time the bay had a different name. You can use. Your imagination when you seethe photos and realize the name was changed because it was offensive to some people. We made jokes that the scenery looked like the area where King Kong was captured before being brought to the states. We hiked to the waterfall with Cetacea and visited the next town over Omoa. Omoa is know for tiki work and tapas. We did see and purchase a tapa, which is a tattoo that is painted on a piece of wood that has been pounded into a paper. The wood is colored depending on the tree breadfruit, banyan and mulberry trees. Some of the larger and more intricate tapas were in the 200 dollar range.
The sunsets here are really amazing. The colors on the rock structures and greenery are beautiful .
We moved on to an island named Tahuata for a few days. The Hanamoenoa Bay is a quite white sandy beach with a man named Stephen living at the shoreline. The water is clean and clear. This is the calmest anchorage we have been in since we arrived in the Marquesas. We went snorkeling and found the cowrie shells and many beautifully colored fish. We even saw on black tip reef shark.

We will move on shortly to Nuku Hiva and hopefully some better Internet.

Comments
Vessel Name: North Star
Vessel Make/Model: Tayana 52, Center Cockpit
Hailing Port: Clearwater, Florida
Crew: Steve and Kim
About:
Steve has been sailing for about 45 years, starting with Optimist pram racing in St. Petersburg, FL many years ago. Steve and Kim sailed the waters of Florida, the Bahamas and the Gulf of Mexico for 10 years on our prior boat, Breath of Heaven. [...]
Extra: North Star is a 1988 Tayana 52, center cockpit, a Robert Perry design.
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