Cruising with Cadenza

"I would rather have thirty minutes of wonderful than a lifetime of nothing special." Steel Magnolias

13 January 2018 | Barra de Navidad
08 January 2018 | Barra de Navidad
27 December 2017 | Nuevo Vallarta, Mexico
18 December 2017 | Nuevo Vallarta, Mexico
08 December 2017 | Puerto Vallarta
30 April 2017
13 April 2017
05 April 2017
18 March 2017
16 March 2017
14 March 2017
13 March 2017
12 March 2017
09 March 2017
07 March 2017
07 March 2017
06 March 2017 | Ipala

Turtle Bay - One Year Later

23 November 2014
Terri Potts-Chattaway
Thursday, November 20, 2014

So much has changed and yet much has remained the same.

The streets are still dirt, lined with houses in various states of disrepair. And then... a beautiful door, a flower box, or a brand new Ford truck, adorns the shabby facade. It brings to mind hope against a starving background.

The pier still stands with its rickety stairs. Men work diligently to keep up the repairs. At the end of the pier on the beach is a newly painted wall; bright blue with large white letters, "Welcome to Bahia Tortuga." It is a stark contrast to it's neighbor; collapsed walls of a once thriving cannery.

As we walk toward shore, Jay wonders aloud what it must have been like during the days when Turtle Bay was a prospering village. He mentions, too, that he feels as if he has walked into a Steinbeck novel.

Enrique is still the dockmaster. Only now he has a different cast of characters. Gone is Pedro. The young man with one and a half arms. Maria too. When I ask Enrique, "Donde esta Maria, su hermana?" He replies, "No say." Her restaurant is closed and she has vanished. Did she succumb to her old ways? Or did she go in search of a better life?

As we walk further, we find Rogellio in front of his house. He sweeps the dirt and tidies the beach he calls his front lawn. Next door, Antonio's Bar is locked up tight. No signs of life.

"Donde esta Antonio?" We ask his father.

He has gone to Ensenada for a brief holiday after the Baja Haha, we are told. We will not see him this visit.

Dogs are plentiful here and as I wrote before, although they are covered with dirt and look like strays (One poor mutt looked like he was sporting dreadlocks for a do.), they are much loved. We watch as one man takes his two pets onto the pier and drops them twenty feet into the water. The dogs rise up out of the bay and swim to shore, bounding up to the pier, begging for another dump into the sea.

Paula's La Palapa has replaced Maria's restaurant. It sits on a hill overlooking the bay. Paula is a spunky lass who has a great sense of humor and loves to laugh at her own jokes. She speaks no English and we speak little Spanish, yet we communicate.

We frequent the restaurant twice while we are in Turtle Bay and both times she has two women friends visiting. One has a four year old son, Rueben, and the other a six-month old baby, Ophelia. Bobbi takes Ophelia into her arms and beams, proving she would be a natural grandmother.

Children will be children everywhere and as we walked down the road and over to a liquor store, three young boys charged past us and ran inside. What business they had there, I wasn't sure until I saw a glass counter with a few pieces of candy behind it. All three boys' noses were pressed against the pane, their breath fogging up the glass. One hand was dropping a coin on the counter, while the other was pointing to their choice. Treasures in hand, they ran outside, delighted.

Back at the boat, we watch as the fisherman gather several of their pangas. Working together, they drop a large circular net (about 500 feet) leaving one side open. Another panga begins to run up and down the open section of the net, chasing the fish into the net. Slowly, the pangas close up the circle and pull their catch onto their boats. It seems the local fisherman have learned a thing or two from dolphins.

While at anchor, we take the opportunity to provision. This will be the last town until we reach San Jose del Cabo next week. Enrique's crew supplies us with fuel and water. Jay and Don go about the boat, checking the rigging and fixing the davits. They took quite a beating on this last leg.

It is time to move on. Bahia Asuncion is our next stop. It is only fifty miles from Turtle Bay and they are calling for winds, five to ten knots. We are hoping for enough wind to sail.

All during our stay in Turtle Bay, I was trying to get onto the internet. No luck. Jay was able to get his mail. Don was able to get his mail. But I was not.

I think this was God's way of telling me, "Pay attention. Be present to what is here." So there was no Obama, no Putin, no North Korea. No tales from home. Only a few cruisers, Turtle Bay, and those who call it home created my world for two days.

I have only been here twice. I may never be here again. But I will carry the memory of Turtle Bay and its people as we sail away.
Comments
Vessel Name: Cadenza
Vessel Make/Model: Hardin 45' Ketch
Hailing Port: Malibu, California
Crew: Jay Chattaway, Terri Potts-Chattaway
About: Jay has owned Cadenza for over 20 years. He originally bought her in La Paz, Mexico (known as Mercury One and before that as Mar y Vent) and brought her up to the Channel Islands. Terri fell in love with sailing and Cadenza over ten years ago and she has been a labor of love ever since.
Extra:
The Plan: We are to leave Channel Islands Harbor the beginning of September, 2013 and head to San Diego for a few months of prep and family time. Next, we leave for La Paz (we love it there) the beginning of November. We will winter out of La Paz, exploring the Sea of Cortez. This is the first [...]
Cadenza's Photos - Main
15 Photos
Created 19 February 2017
13 Photos
Created 13 February 2017
12 Photos
Created 5 January 2017
16 Photos
Created 27 December 2016
14 Photos
Created 5 April 2016
13 Photos
Created 28 March 2016
25 Photos
Created 28 March 2016
10 Photos
Created 27 March 2016
13 Photos
Created 17 March 2016
7 Photos
Created 28 February 2016
13 Photos
Created 28 February 2016
5 Photos
Created 28 February 2016
11 Photos
Created 29 January 2016
10 Photos
Created 29 December 2015
15 Photos
Created 15 November 2015
12 Photos
Created 7 April 2015
12 Photos
Created 31 March 2015
15 Photos
Created 31 March 2015
7 Photos
Created 25 March 2015
4 Photos
Created 3 March 2015
8 Photos
Created 3 March 2015
12 Photos
Created 26 February 2015
7 Photos
Created 13 February 2015
16 Photos
Created 10 February 2015
6 Photos
Created 10 February 2015
16 Photos
Created 31 January 2015
La Paz to Mazatlan
12 Photos
Created 28 January 2015
13 Photos
Created 19 March 2014
12 Photos
Created 18 March 2014
11 Photos
Created 17 March 2014
20 Photos
Created 16 March 2014
10 Photos
Created 16 March 2014
5 Photos
Created 16 March 2014
21 Photos
Created 29 January 2014
11 Photos
Created 29 January 2014
17 Photos
Created 29 January 2014
18 Photos
Created 29 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 10 January 2014
12 Photos
Created 9 January 2014
16 Photos
Created 9 January 2014
10 Photos
Created 2 January 2014
24 Photos
Created 30 December 2013
10 Photos
Created 26 December 2013
12 Photos
Created 26 December 2013
9 Photos
Created 26 December 2013
10 Photos
Created 22 December 2013
8 Photos
Created 21 December 2013
12 Photos
Created 20 December 2013
12 Photos
Created 17 December 2013
13 Photos
Created 9 December 2013
19 Photos
Created 9 December 2013
15 Photos
Created 9 December 2013
20 Photos
Created 22 November 2013
15 Photos
Created 16 November 2013
13 Photos
Created 14 November 2013
15 Photos
Created 11 November 2013
18 Photos
Created 10 November 2013
10 Photos
Created 10 November 2013
20 Photos
Created 10 November 2013
25 Photos
Created 10 November 2013
13 Photos
Created 10 November 2013
20 Photos
Created 6 November 2013
26 Photos
Created 4 November 2013
11 Photos
Created 1 November 2013
11 Photos
Created 7 October 2013
11 Photos
Created 3 October 2013
9 Photos
Created 12 September 2013
10 Photos
Created 11 September 2013
10 Photos
Created 8 September 2013
10 Photos
Created 8 September 2013