I retreated this morning from the Atlantis Resort Marina pretty much due to the amount of money they charge. It is just down right expensive. $170 a night plus electricity is just more than I can stomach for more than a day or two. It was grand while it lasted.

So I am feeling quiet Zen now as I am anchored right off the Yoga Retreat Center. From the picture you would think that much inner balance is found within the open air wooden structure. But what I am unable to capture is the dozen tours boats that fly up to the Center and with the blaring speaker, just like Vince Vaughn in the Breakup, gives historical details of the center. It must disturb the inner Chi. It certainly disturbs me.

What I really find amusing is next door to the retreat sits a rather nice house. Every half hour a tour boat would pull along side and the same women would say. "This is the sight of the Sean Connery movie Thunderbolt where a boat explodes. The home is occupied by the director of that film, he is 80 and his current wife is 45." Each time a collective gasp could be heard from the boat. Apparently this women's age is a real scandal.

Not a whole lot of new news. The Atlantis Resort is Vegas like with a pretty cool aquarium. Nina from Woofie swears the fish look sad and depressed. I've been enjoying the local starbucks and have been eating some tip top food. I have also been doing a significant amount of walking. My legs are killing me. As I have stated before shopping can really take almost an entire day when all is said and done. Today in the grocery store, Sean a 14 year old Bahamian business man who works at the grocery latched right onto me. Pretty soon he had all my stuff boxed up and loaded in a shopping cart. He proceeds to wheel the shopping cart against afternoon Nassau traffic bound for the dingy dock. I thought for sure my cart of food was going to be involved in an altercation. No sidewalks no shoulder. But all my grub made it to the dink. I gave him a healthy tip.

I am pleased to announce this Friday may be a dead calm. S/V Woofie and I plan on making the 30 mile run SE to Allen Cay at the northern tip of the Exuma Island Chain. The next 3 weeks or so could be some of the best snokeling and fishing and relaxing known to mankind. Can't wait.

Capt Chris

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I left Chub Cay in tandem with s/v Woofie around 7am. Wind was blowing all day from the NNE at 20 knots. Christa performed beautifully under double reefed main and partially furled jib. The monitored also performed under rough conditions.

The first two hours found us under the partial protection of the Berry Islands that lies to the north of the trackline. As we distance ourselves from the island chain the seas began to build and the wind increased. We had an incident. I failed to secure a 2 gallon jug of gasoline and even worse the cap was loose as it needs venting in the tropical heat. A series of large waves came along and caught Christa just right and we rolled heavely to starboard. The gas can did a 360 over my shoulder dumped down my back and sailed straight into the cabin. Topless, it proceeded to empy its contents. I sprang into action only to find out that the fibergalss was like an ice skating rink with the fuel sloshing around. Even the wigwaamers wouldn't grip. In a heavy sea it was a challege to regain my composure. I got things cleaned up, wiped the fuel out of my bushy goatee, picked up the pieces of my shattered life and moved on. The boat recks. This will not help to attract any potential first mates.

Anyway I am thrilled to be in Nassau tied up at the Atlantis Resort. The plan is to provision and do some tourist stuff with Nina and Mark and look to depart for the Exumas latter on this week. Gotta go as I'm hungry.

Fuel Boy

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For a brief few minutes the wifi network here at Chub Cay Marina was up and running. I posted a picture with no commentary and not sure if it successfully uploaded. So anyway I've been offline for a day or two. Here is the scoop.

At last correspondence I was hanging on for dear life at Whale Cay anchorage. It was a very rough night as Christa was pitching in a wrap around swell. I slept little. But at first light I left the anchorage with the intentions of making it north to try and position myself securely for the passage of the cold front and be in a good position for a move south. Well I got spanked pretty hard by the weather. I rounded the point of Whale Cay and was met by 6 to 8 foot seas very close together and steep. I had no sail up as I was simply trying to get around the corner. Things quickly went out of control with the bow completely buried, the kayak was torn from its bracket and was hanging over the side. I immediately turned around, unrolled some jib and headed for Chub Cay Marina 7 miles away. Chub has always been a fall back position.

I have spent a lovely two days here, licking my wounds pool side and eating good food. So just when you think things are not looking up a positive thing comes around. I met a very nice couple on a Hunter 41. They left from Charleston and pretty much have been on the same path as I. Nina and Marc have a great life story which I won't get into. Nina is my age, born and raised upper east side of Manhattan and is new to sailing. Marc is late forties and an experienced sailor. Anyway we have hit it off and will be sailing together for a little while. Tomorrow morning we will both be making the run to Nassau together. The weather has taken a better turn with the passage of a cold front. The wind is now 20 knots out of the NNW. This will be a great ride to Nassau. We hope to snag a marina for a couple of days and then Thursday head further south to the Exumas. Things are looking good. Hope all hands are not to fatigued with all the snow and associated shoveling. Stay warm!

Capt Chris

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Commentary to follow as wi-fi allows...

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My friends on the South African boat departed this morning for Nassau. Since they didn't return I assumed that the conditions while rough were manageable for them. I headed back ashore this morning to the Berry Islands Club to say goodbye to the two hounds and do a last minute skirf on the internet. The wind has sagged to the southeast and is about 10 to 15 knots. I decided to move to Bird Cay, just a scant mile and half to pre-stage for a run tonight. I left Frazier Hog and ran into a pretty sloppy sea. I got to Bird Cay and an unacceptable wrap around swell was entering the anchorage making it untenable. So I decided I'd go another mile and half and see if the wrap around swell into Whale Cay was workable. Well I am anchored now so I guess you could say it is workable. It is awfully uncomfortable as a swell is coming around the point. As soon as I put down the hook I deployed a stern anchor and winched the stern of the boat around a little bit to try and keep the bow into the swell and mitigate the roll. I've had moderate success. I have to say that since arriving in the Bahamas I have yet to experience a calm anchorage or mooring. You may recall I had a dragging incident in Chub. During calm conditions the anchorage at Chub is spectacular. Then the mooring on the Frazier Hog Cay was ok, but was exposed to miles of relentless east winds. No swell action as the reef provide protection, but the current smokes through the mooring field causing wind against the tide situation. Now I'm having a whale of a time here at Whale. On a very positive note I am anchored on the CQR in deep sand. I dove down to check the hook and it is completely buried. The stern hook is a small Danforth that has serious holding power. Since the Chub drag I have been doing some research and found that the key is to find deep sand with plenty of scope and avoid sand and grass. At first opportunity I plan on buying a Fortress type anchor that breaks down and I can carry it in the bilge.

Anyway cruising to windward as I am doing is like a game of chess. Each move must be planned carefully with multiple options in case the conditions you based your original plan on change. My move today while small saves me about an hour and half and more importantly leaving Whale Cay in pitch black conditions is a snap. Very easy in and out. Leaving Frazier Hog is not as easy and requires going between two reefs. Plus I am now 3 more miles to the east. So I plan on pulling anchor at 3am. If the conditions cooperate I will try and make the 55 nm sail to either Royal Island or Spanish Wells, both at the north tip of Eleuthera. Plan Bravo is if conditions are calm, but the wind direction not cooperating I may try for Nassau in two long tacks. Plan Charlie is to sail about 12 miles further north in the Berry Islands to a very protected anchorage off White Cay just to the north of Devils Cay. In a absolute worse case situation it is back to Chub. A strong cold front is on the way. I really shouldn't have to tell you all that because this cold front is causing a blizzard up in the northeast. No blizzards here at Whale Cay. Hope all hands are well.

Capt Chris

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