10/28/2010, Catskill, NY
Cruising so far has been a lot more work than we expected and more rewarding than we expected. We were up early again today and decided to try to beat the wind to Hop-O-Nose Marina in Catskill on the Hudson. Our first task was to extricate the boat from the line-up in Waterford. Bud tried to use the engine off a spring line to pull the bow in and the stern out. When that didn't work I tried to pull the bow in. In the end I pushed the stern out and then went down to the uncrowded end of the dock and Bud picked me up. The current there was stronger (we have to get used to those currents) and continued to push Bud against the dock. The only casualty was a crack in our fender board, but since we had only the Troy lock to go we weren't worried.
The Troy lock turned out to be the trickiest one yet. First Bud had a hard time holding the boat in the current at the approach (those darn currents again). Then there were only cables in the lock and they were so widely spaced we could only secure one. That's supposed to be all you need, you hold the cable at midship and let the boat slide down against the fenders. We've gotten into the habit of keeping the boat off the fenders, but with just two of us, Bud was holding the cable and trying to fend off and I was going from bow to stern pushing one out and then the other. Eventually, Bud ended up close to the bow with the cable and I fended off the stern.
Once through the Troy lock we really started to move. The current and ebbing tide (oh no, wind and currents and now tides!) were both with us, so the knot meter was reading about 5 knots and our actual speed over ground from the GPS was about 8 knots. It was a beautiful trip. I put pictures in the gallery of Albany from the river and a tug and barge we passed.
We were almost there when the cell phone rang. It was Jon and Arline, our new friends from Fair Point Marina in Little Sodus. They were on their way to Connecticut and had thought they saw us as they crossed the Hudson. They were thinking of stopping to see us at Hop-O-Nose, but weren't sure if there was a good route back. If they didn't come here, they said they would look for us on the Chesapeake.
We arrived at Hop-O-Nose at about 1 PM. We didn't see anyone around, so Bud brought the boat along one of the docks and tucked it nicely between a powerboat and a cross dock. We (mostly Bud) really are getting better at this. We walked up and found one of the Marina guys and he said they could do our mast later that day or first thing in the morning. They preferred first thing in the morning because they were busy shrink-wrapping boats for the winter that afternoon.
Bud started to untie the mast, getting ready to step it. We also took off one of the fender boards and put the Windex back on the end of the mast. We needed to pull the stern of the boat right over to the dock to do the Windex. I climbed a stepladder on the dock and attached it while Bud held the stern in against the wind. We also got all the hardware ready for tomorrow and finished the repair where the mast goes through the deck.
While we were working on those things the head of the marina came over. He had a message from Craig and Barb on Freedom Quest, who'd been docked behind us at Waterford. They hadn't seen us before we left in the morning and wanted us to have their contact information. So I gave Barb a call and we exchanged email addresses also.
Since Hop-O-Nose doesn't have pump-out facilities, we were reminded that we thought there was a problem with our aft toilet. We ended up disconnecting the line from where water to flush comes in through a fitting in the hull to the toilet and pumping air and water through it with the dinghy pump (that dinghy pump has been useful!). We got the toilet working, but you can imagine the mess it made. We had just finished cleaning that up and Bud was washing his hands at the galley sink when I heard water running. I checked the aft head to see that the sink faucet had been bumped on. That drain is slow because the check valve sticks (we need to fix that again) so the water was running all over the floor. And oh, yeah, we're down to our last tank of water and have to refill the tanks tomorrow.
Just as the constant work, repairs and reminders of repairs to come were becoming overwhelming, a young couple stopped by who'd come in after us and are also getting their mast stepped tomorrow. We chatted a while; they said they were going to shower, then go have a couple of drinks in the restaurant at the marina and invited us to join them. We walked to town, fed Fuzzy and then went to see if they were still at the restaurant. They were so we joined them for dinner. They are Brittany and Scott Meyers from Chicago. They had transmission problems in Buffalo and docked at RCR Yachts, where we had done the initial work on Earendil, and Andy, our favorite mechanic, tried to help them. They ended up staying a week while they shipped their transmission to Florida to have it repaired. Soon after they got to Buffalo, Bill Fleming, Commodore of Tuscarora Yacht Club, came by. He'd been following their blog and emailing them. He saw on the blog where they were and went to check up on them. He brought them food and introduced them to Todd Ciehomski from the club. Todd and his girlfriend semi-adopted them and gave them a place to stay for a few nights. Bill told them to be on the lookout for a couple from TYC heading down to Florida. Bill sent our blog address, but they hadn't had time to check it out before they came into Hop-O-Nose. Wow! We had a great dinner and after I asked them to come aboard so I could take their picture for the blog today. So Bill or Todd, if you read this, you will recognize Brittany and Scott who are sitting in our salon with Fuzzy.
We have read that it's the fellow cruisers you meet who make cruising so rewarding. Now we're experiencing that first hand. Three different couples all reached out to us in one day, and completely took away the pain of stopped toilets and overflowing sinks.
P.S. Please note that we have finally moved a degree south!
10/27/2010, Still in Waterford
We stayed at Waterford another day. Two boats left that were at the side of the floating dock that still had power and we managed to squeeze three sailboats in the space. The picture is of the line of floating hobos headed south. Lost Navigator is by himself on the end of the dock without power. Now we have power, but we're out of range of the WIFI. I'd rather have power as we have an air card for our computer and are paying for Internet access anyway.
We stayed for two reasons. First, our package again did not come. Second, we had been warned about a front that came through back home with 65 mph winds. The forecast here said chance of thunderstorms with the possibility of 45 mph winds with the storms. We inquired about the package and found it had been sent via UPS to the General Delivery address at the local Post Office. The Post Office refused it. Our very accommodating technical support guy at Racor redirected it to Hop-O-Nose Marina, about 5 hours south of here where we're going to have the mast stepped. I don't know if there were thunderstorms in the area, but although we heard some distant thunder it was a beautiful day here, partly sunny and warm. So we really could have gone on to Hop-O-Nose but it was nice to have a day off.
In the morning I did the laundry. I was thinking of doing that at the marina, but our guidebook (another Skipper Bob book) said the nearest laundry to Hop-O-Nose was 5 miles. This one was two blocks and the folks at the Welcome Center said I should just use one of the shopping carts, so I didn't even have to carry the clothes. Bud put some epoxy on the wood under the trim where the mast had been leaking, as the plywood there had started to delaminate. He glued and clamped it.
In the afternoon we again played tourist. I persuaded Bud to walk the other end of the Old Champlain Canal Trail. We followed it down to the Mohawk River, which had a dam and some impressive rapids. It was a nice walk with the autumn colors.
We've been talking to our fellow boaters, and two of them are having alternator problems. One boat out of Toronto has been here a couple of days. He will be here at least a couple more, he thinks, as his alternator is shot. Today he pulled it out of the boat. He is having a new one sent. The sailboat that left this morning is back. (We shuffled all of the boats closer and squeezed him back on the end of the dock with power. There are now 5 sailboats lined up. We're tied so close that one boat needs to have its bow in and the other it's stern out so our masts don't hit.) He has an alternator that also acts as his engine starter motor. It's working as a starter motor but won't charge his battery. He made it down to the federal lock in Troy (about 3 ½ miles). He was on the Internet searching for parts for his unusual motor/alternator. Our air bubbles that don't appear to affect anything seem less worrisome when you see the troubles others are having.
Tomorrow it's on to Hop-O-Nose, hopefully. We expect to overnight there, maybe even two nights. Then we'll set out and try to make some serious time south.
10/26/2010, Waterford, New York
We got a late start this morning. Actually, we got two late starts. The first time was after 9, when we thought the fog had thinned enough to see. We took off with me on the bow looking for the next buoy and pointing it out to Bud. This part of the canal is in the Mohawk River, so you have to watch for the channel markers. The GPS is not accurate enough to steer by - it would consistently show the boat on the edge of the canal or the wrong side of the buoys as we were proceeding nicely down the channel. Radar would have shown the buoys ahead like light posts, but our radar is lying down with the mast. The chart plotter is helpful, even if the icon for the boat is slightly off it does show you where the channel is and the buoys. So Bud was using that and I was using the chart book to decide where to look for the next buoy, but still we were almost on top of them before you could see them and if there was any distance at all between them you were going blindly. After less than a mile of that Bud said. "Let's go back. We don't need to be doing this." Just then I saw the next red buoy. "Can't we just keep going slowly forward?" This from me, the one who is usually ready to give up. We went maybe three more buoys when I conceded that this was crazy and we should go back. We turned around, and it was so foggy that is was almost as hard to find our way back. We left again at 10:45 as the fog really was lifting. This time Lost Navigator came too. At first I was still sighting buoys, but the ones that had seemed miles apart we could now see were pretty close together.
Before long the last of the mist cleared and it started getting warm. I took the bib overalls from my foul weather suit off. Then I took the jacket off and had on just three layers. By the time we reached the famous "Flight of Five Locks" that was too warm, but I didn't want to change. The locks really come one right after the other. The longest distance between two locks is .6 mile, but most the rest are less than a quarter mile apart. The picture is looking out from the second of the five locks when the lock was still full. You can get some sense of the valley you're entering. It's not a great picture because I was taking it with one hand while holding the locking rope with the other, and hurrying to get the shot before the bow drifted in too far towards the lock wall. I always have one hand on the rope and the other on the boathook, to push the bow off the wall. The last thing I wanted to do was get distracted and let the mast sticking out the front of the boat get over the edge of the lock so it got caught as we were lowered.
In short order we'd locked through all 5 locks and were in Waterford by 2 PM. We got through the canal in 6 days; we still had four days left on our 10-day pass. We have to lock through the Federal lock at Troy as we head down the Hudson, then we are done with locks until we decide to do the Panama.
There is a free dock here. The book said to tie up to the floating dock so you had power. There are also restrooms and showers. Wahoo! It really is pretty, but the power was pulled yesterday! And when we took a walk this evening and went to use the restrooms, they were already locked for the night. At least there's WIFI and it's still on.
We walked up to the post office to see if our Racor filter gaskets had arrived. We got there at 2:45 only to find out that the window was closed from 2 to 3. So Bud and Fuzzy and I took a bit of a walk along the old Champlain Canal. It was sunny and so warm that we were in short sleeves. I took a picture of the canal; it's in the gallery. I thought as we were walking that this is what it might be like once we get out of the cold, so we don't have to push so hard. A leisurely stroll in the sun, what a treat.
Then Bud reminded me that we had better hurry if we wanted to rebed the stainless ring where the mast enters the deck. We figured out that was the cause of our leak in Little Sodus. Remember the pot on the dinette table? We haven't had to deal with it because the hole where the mast comes though is covered while the mast is down and the life raft is over it all. But if we wanted to fix it we needed to do it while the mast was down. So after finding out that our package hadn't arrived, Bud went to do the grocery shopping and I came back and started working on the stainless ring. I was still cleaning the old bedding material off of everything when the sun started to go down. It was getting cold!
Bud came back with a whole cart full of groceries. There are at least two stores right across the Hudson (and the Hudson isn't too wide here) that will let boaters take carts back to the town dock. There are carts lined up like in the cart corrals. The stores come and get them on Saturdays.
Once the groceries were put away, Fuzzy fed, and dinner started, Bud came out and helped me set the stainless ring back in place with its new Boatlife caulk. We bolted it back in place, and hopefully, once the mast goes back up, the leak will be gone.
So here we are spending a third night without power. Tonight it's warm enough that we didn't even use the generator. We did turn on the inverter to use the microwave and charge up the phone and the hand held VHF radio. The wind has picked up, so maybe the wind generator will help keep the batteries charged. The solar panels might even have helped today! This whole thing might work after all.
10/25/2010, Lock 7
We did 48 miles and 7 locks today. It was almost warm and it was almost sunny. What a difference! We started out in the fog, but the fog gradually cleared and we saw the closest to sunshine we've seen since the snow day.
We had so much confidence in the generator (and the moderating weather) that we set our sights today for another dock without services. Last night worked out pretty well. It was frosty by morning, but we turned on the generator enough to take the chill off again and make coffee. Then we took off into the mist. We had just cleared Lock 14, so before Lock 13 I went down and took a shower. The engine heats the water, so hot water was no problem. Then between Lock 13 and Lock 12, Bud took a shower. His was a bit rushed, because at first I was reluctant to helm on my own because it was so hard to see the buoys. But soon it got easier and he got a shower.
The day kept getting nicer. There are a few more pictures in the gallery, both because the lighting was better and because my hands were warm enough to not wear gloves, so taking pictures was easier. It's very pretty along the canal and today I could almost see why people would do this for fun. The picture at the top of this entry is of one of the NYS Canal tugs. This was the Governor Cleveland. It was a good-sized boat and was moving right along, but didn't make much wake, so didn't jostle our boat much at all.
Our timing was definitely off, not only for the time of year, but also for the runs we ended up making. We had to wait in Brewerton to cross Oneida Lake, so we couldn't get as far as we might have. We passed two places that would have been really nice to stay, but they were either too short or too long a day for us. The first was Little Falls, the picturesque town with the 40-foot deep lock. We have been playing leapfrog with a guy in a homemade trawler called the Lost Navigator for the past couple of days. Today we ended up tied at the same lock (you'll see a picture of his boat coming out of the lock in the gallery). He told us he spent the night in Little Falls and they had 30 AMP power. Again, in the season they charge, but Nelson spent the night free. Another picture in the gallery is of the free dock in Amsterdam. It looks like a beautiful facility and they, too, have power.
We're finally getting the whole locking thing down to a science. We check in the Skipper Bob book to see how great the drop will be and whether the lock uses pipes, cables, ropes or a combination. We're getting good at getting our rope or whatever. We know when the lock is all the way down, because every lock has a line of zebra mussels that starts about a foot above the low water line. I took a picture of it, and that's in the gallery, too.
The one nice thing about doing this as late in the season as we are is that there aren't a lot of other boats to deal with. The locks are usually all set for us as we come up to them and the facilities that aren't closed are pretty empty. We did miss out on staying at the Schenectady Yacht Club. I called yesterday hoping someone would be around on the weekend, to see if we could stop there. They were there but they we pulling their docks out! We went by today and all the docks were gone.
The day went so well that we went on to Lock 7. We locked through and then tied to the downstream wall. There's a picture in the gallery of Bud putting a chafe guard on the spring line with Lock 7 behind us. Just after we tied up, Lost Navigator came through and tied behind us.
We're at mile 12.6, so tomorrow we have to go just under 10 miles and then do the flight of 5, 5 locks that take you down further in a shorter distance than any other canal in the world. I'm actually looking forward to it. I'm not promising pictures, because although it's supposed to continue to warm up, it's also supposed to rain.
10/24/2010, Canajoharie Town Dock
Today we did more locks and fewer miles, but still made decent progress. The Utica dock did turn out to be free since no one came out to collect any money. Our goal for the day was the Canajoharie town dock, which was listed as free with 30/50 Amp power service.
We started fairly early again. We left the dock at 7:25 AM. Bud felt we could have seen well enough to leave at 7 AM. We weren't pushing too hard, but we are both waking up early. I couldn't sleep because I was worried that the wind had come up and we wouldn't be able to get away from the dock (or else the boat would get away quickly, but since the dock was so low it was hard to climb on the boat, I wouldn't be on it). Bud said he was worried about things down the line. When I asked him if he should tell me or if it would make me crazy to know, he said it would probably make me crazy to know. So I didn't ask, I know my limits.
Anyway, it turned out to be easy getting away from the dock. Which just underlines what I try to keep telling myself, that there is no sense in worrying because you are almost certainly worried about the wrong thing.
We went through some pretty places today, but I didn't get any pictures. I noticed that the most picturesque places were always right at the locks where I'm busy with boat hooks and lines and so forth. The prettiest place was Little Falls. The canal walls were solid rock with moss and ferns. There was a lot of wooded area and above the woods you could see the old buildings and houses of the town. That was another place I was worried for nothing. Little Falls has the highest lock on the canal (40 foot drop) and even though we were going down I was worried about it. Turned out to be the smoothest lock we were in, it felt like going down in an elevator.
The whole locking thing is getting much easier. For one thing, we're going down. For another thing, we gave up on coming in on the port side of the locks. Having me able to walk the rope back to Bud didn't offset the problems of having the prop push the boat away from the wall. So now we come in along the starboard wall, I grab a rope at the bow and Bud stops the boat and gets his rope. Seems to work just fine.
We made good time today. No problems with the engine, and we arrived at the Canajoharie free dock about an hour earlier than we thought. As we docked, a man from the village drove down. He told us to keep to the center of the dock where it's deepest. We asked where the power was and he said "Oh, that was washed out in the last flood. That's the second time a flood took it out and the town wouldn't pay the $1000 to replace the posts again."
So, after freezing all day, our warm free dock is just a free dock. The picture is of the boat at the very pretty little riverside park with no power. What the picture doesn't show is the Thruway right behind that pretty little building and the two very well used railroad tracks on the opposite bank of the canal. I also have to confess that I enhanced the colors in the picture, which makes it look like a brighter day than it was.
We definitely need some heat, so Bud checked out the generator. Now we've only tested the generator a couple of times since we bought the boat and we've never actually used it. We never even checked it out this season, since our list of things to fix was so long. Before we used it Bud wanted to check the oil and antifreeze. A simple thing, except it's a boat. The dipstick for the oil is behind the generator. To access it you have to empty everything out of the wet locker (where you hang your soaking foul weather gear, etc.) and remove a panel on the aft wall of that compartment. You can see the top of the dipstick to remove it, but once it's out you can't even see the hole where it goes back in.
Oil was OK, water, OK. Bud held down the preheat switch and you could hear the little priming pump working. Then Bud held down the start switch and nothing happened. Nothing. So out came the electric multimeter. We tried to check the voltage at the starter and weren't measuring anything. A little more investigation and we found the actual ground cable, so I used that instead of the generator body as a ground, and we measured 12 volts. Then we noticed a little wire on the top of the starter solenoid that was loose. We put that on better and tried again. It started, but was running slowly. We turned the switch to power the boat, and the gauge showed only about 75 Volts. A minute later the generator died. Bud poked around again while I consulted the operator's manual. Bud tried tightening the loose wire, and then just tried to start it again. It started, it produced 125 Volts, it ran the reverse cycle heater, the battery charger, the outlets and the microwave. I wouldn't let Bud use the microwave and the box heater at the same time - that seemed like it would be pushing it.
So we're sort of warm (we are only running the generator part time, we sailors are getting mighty tired of constant engine drone) and Bud is fixing roast turkey and baked potatoes for dinner. Once dinner is done and the oven is off, we'll probably turn the generator back on and heat the boat back up and then go to bed. I think this might all be fun if only we were somewhere WARM.
10/23/2010, Utica Marina
We left this morning at first light. Since it was an overcast morning that was about 10 after 7. We got off from the dock without too much trauma, considering I was at the helm. We may have woken up our neighbors, because I was yelling for Bud to get on the boat. He was fending us off the dock while standing on the dock, and I was worried that he was waiting too long and he'd get left behind and I would have to get the boat back to him, and that would not be pretty. Bud thought I should take the helm because there was no wind and "there's almost no current". I don't know why I bought that, as the day before we'd been talking with the mechanic there about how surprisingly much current there was. Anyway, I tried to just ease it back from the finger dock into the canal and the current took the stern and pushed it towards the dock and the fender board caught on the dock and the base of the mast, sticking out front, rubbed on the tall piling between the slips and I yelled. But no real harm done and we were underway.
We wanted to leave as early as we could to make sure we crossed Oneida Lake before there was any wind. It was really hard to see the channel markers when we first got in the lake, so I think we did start as early as we could have. The wind stayed down, the engine ran fine, the fuel filters continued to bubble and not only did we make it across the lake, we took the time at the far end to recalibrate our course computer, as the last time we tried it there was a bit too much wind and it was still not correct. You have to drive the boat in slow circles to calibrate it, then drive a steady straight course for a few more minutes. We got it very close this time. We stopped at the wall at the far side of Oneida and pulled the stern over close to the wall. I put the protective cap on the socket for the windex. Bud had taken the windex off in Phoenix, but I didn't know and didn't tell him there was a cap to go over the socket. We also checked the filters. They had seemed to be bubbling a lot but the diesel wasn't down much.
So off we went and did another 25 miles and 3 locks to get to the Utica Marina. It's a municipal marina. We weren't sure if the power was still on as no one answered the phone number given for it, which turned out to be the Parks Department. The lockmaster at Lock 20 asked us if we were going to try to make Lock 19 that day. We told him we wanted to stop at Utica if the power was still on, but if there was no power we'd try to go on. He called us on the radio when we were a few hundred yards beyond the lock to tell us that he had phoned and the power was still on. That was nice! I guess he knew who to call.
Another nice thing is that we are now starting to go down in the locks, and it's down all the way to the end. There is much less turbulence when they drain the water than when they fill it, so it's a lot easier to keep the boat off the walls.
The picture is of Earendil at the marina. It's kind of strange, the building says Utica Historical Marina (built in 1999?) but the whole building is now a restaurant. The book said docking was $1/foot and a sign said the same; the sign had the restaurant name on it as if they were the ones to pay, but when Bud went up no one was there. There now seems to be a banquet going on and no one is asking us for money, so we're hoping this becomes another free dock.
We debated on whether we should just push on through lock 19, but decided not to for three reasons:
1. The engine was running a little hotter than it had been after we went through an area where they had been dredging. Bud asked me to look at the raw water filter for the engine and I could see a lot of weeds. We didn't want to push it without stopping to clean that filter.
2. They now weren't expecting us at lock 19.
3. It was a good run for the day and it would be nice to give Fuzzy a break.
So when we got here and the dock looked decent, we stopped. We made 50.8 statute miles, 44.7 nautical miles for the day. We checked the fuel filters again and although every time I had checked they were bubbling, Bud had to add almost no diesel. I'm starting to be a bit more comfortable.
Another good day and another warm night, and maybe free. Not bad, not bad.