This feels a bit like October 13, when we first set out. After being in Charleston since November 19, Bud and I worked today to get ready to sail tomorrow. The weather looks good so we're heading outside to the ocean. We'll see how it goes, but we may run straight through to St. Augustine.
So today we took down the Christmas decorations, cleaned the boat, filled the fuel tanks and the water tanks, did some laundry... We checked the weather, again. We worked on trimming Fuzzy, again. (After three days of intermittent trimming he's looking fairly well groomed, at least you can see his face.) We checked the electronic charts on the computer. We got the wind vane ready to go, we put away the dock lines not being used and washed down the deck.
So I guess we're ready. I've got the jitters but I know it will feel good once we're underway. I hope there's enough wind to sail. And I hope it's not dead on our nose. The weather forecast shows the winds more or less from the south, so we just have to get out there and see. It would be so nice to make good time without the engine.
I'm not sure if we'll get to St. Augustine Sunday, or have to wait it out until daylight on Monday, so it's possible there will be no update to the blog until Monday. If we have cell service out there I'll update as we go, otherwise I'll check in with you when we reach the next port.
Happy New Year everyone!
12/29/2010, Charleston City Marina
Today started out chilly again, but not as cold as it's been. As the day went on it got warmer until by noon it was pretty nice. You could be outside with only three or four layers on, and no gloves. That's a great improvement, and the weather was good enough that we decided to tackle some boat work.
Bud had bought a radar reflector while I was in Detroit, but it wasn't installed yet. We didn't have a good way to get it up high enough on the backstay to be effective, so we decided to hang it. Bud had made a bridal out of light line so it could be hung from the halyard where we fly our burgees. The only problem is that the line needs to be led through a second pulley, so there's room for the reflector, which is round (more or less) and about 16 inches in diameter. So we needed to install a second pulley on our spreader (one of the arms that sticks out from the mast that the metal cables, or in our case rods, that hold the mast in place hook to).
In short, some one had to go part way up the mast, and that is my job. It's Bud's job to hoist me up there. So we hooked up the boatswain's chair and up I went. I used to be pretty nervous going up, and we used to do this with one or two other people to help. We've had to do it on our own, so we have a routine that I feel pretty comfortable with. I tie two sail halyards to the chair, one is the main lift line and the second is the safety line. Bud puts the main line on a winch on the mast and leads the second line to a cleat, also on the mast. He then winches me up about 5 feet at a time, and then tightens and re-cleats the safety line. That way, if either line breaks I'll only fall about 5 feet. That's the theory anyway.
Going up is not a problem for me. Being up high is not a problem either. What I worry about is dropping things. Today I wasn't working that high up, but I needed to attach the second pulley near the outer end of the spreader. That meant I had to work away from the mast and couldn't use my legs on the mast to hold the chair steady. That in turn meant that I had to pretty much do everything with one hand, while hanging on to the spreader with the other. It took a little doing but in the end I got the holes drilled, the washers in place and the pulley riveted to the spreader, and thankfully, I didn't drop anything. I added a picture of our new radar reflector installation to the gallery.
Once the radar reflector was up, we even spent some time just sitting in the cockpit, enjoying the sun. I could get used to that! The day ended with a nice sunset, and I added a picture to the gallery of the sun setting across the Ashley River and the marina.
12/28/2010, Charleston City Marina
Christmas morning was cold. I woke up well before dawn and decided to make the trip to the bathrooms here. It's about a 12-minute walk, even at a pretty good pace. I had my hands in my pockets to keep them warm and was sliding my feet a bit, because it felt like there was some frost on the docks. Suddenly I slipped and went down on the dock. My hands flew out and I caught myself with only a couple of bruises, but when I stood up I felt that the bathroom key was no longer in my pocket, nor was it on the dock. It was still dark, but I leaned over and saw that there was a lump on the water. I grabbed it, and happily it was the float on the key. It's an electronic key, so I wiped it off immediately. It still works!
After that the day got a little better. We did go to our friends' house for Christmas dinner, and that was nice. I would never have guessed when we started this journey that we'd be having Christmas dinner in Charleston with the Wollabers!
The day after Christmas started cold and rainy and ended colder and snowy. The snow didn't stick, but Monday morning we woke up to some serious ice on the docks. I took this picture on my way to the bathroom (this time the key was in the pocket that Velcro's shut). I wore my boat shoes. I really didn't buy them in anticipation of needing traction on ice. I guess I shouldn't complain, the Northeast was getting a blizzard. And it's supposed to get up to 70 degrees by the end of the week. Yeah!
I can't say that life on board is boring though. Even stuck here at the City Marina it's fun to look at the boats. I am also amazed at the tide. Today I took pictures of high and low tide to show the difference. It's about a 6-foot tide here. I also took pictures of one powerboat that has what must be a bargain slip. It's about a 30-foot boat and at low tide it's completely aground. I thought maybe it was abandoned, but it had Christmas lights on it. Today on another of the long trips to the bathrooms I saw a big dolphin surface in the lanes between the boats. (Pictures of the tide and the boat are in the gallery; I didn't get a shot of the dolphin, even though I had the camera.)
Things are looking up. Our mail has been sent and the days are getting warmer. With any luck our business and the weather will come together so we can head on out on Friday or Saturday. I'm looking forward to moving south again.
12/24/2010, Charleston City Marina
Hello everyone. Earendil is back at the Charleston City Marina. The good folks here are letting us use the 8 days left on our reservation and since it's very cold and we are waiting for some important mail we have decided to stay here until the end of the reservation.
This is the coldest December on record for the Charleston area, and I imagine for a lot of the Southeast. We are lucky to be back in the water with the heat pump and two space heaters running. We're snug and warm and waiting for Santa Claus.
We made the 13 mile run down with the tide. We had no problems once we left the dock in Wando. That was a bit tricky as the tide was already ripping and with the direction it was flowing it was pushing the boat away from the dock. It took a bit of maneuvering with dock lines and engine until we managed to get us in a place where we could cast off and get me aboard. Happily, we did manage it. The engine ran fine and the vibration seems to be gone.
The dolphins were out as we approached Charleston. We saw about a dozen, the closest were only about 20 feet from the boat. I also got to see the old city of Charleston that Amy and I walked through, this time from the water. It was a pretty trip, but cold.
But now we are here and tied and warm. Merry Christmas everyone! Merry Christmas Adler, we love you.
12/22/2010, Charleston City Boatyard
The motor mounts came this morning. They were installed by about 2:30. The guys tried to launch us then, but unfortunately it was close to low tide. The water in the slip was too low. So there the boat hung and waited for the tide. Finally, at about 5 PM they were able to put us in. George, who installed both the prop and the motor mounts came on board. Bud started the engine and put it in gear and George checked the alignment of the prop and engine. All seems well; the repairs are done and we are officially back on our way!
We went to Amy's tonight for dinner because her parents, our old neighbors, got there. So we had a nice dinner and a nice visit with Joanne and Bill (and Amy and Brandon), and we brought Brandon's car back to the marina for the night.
It was nice to get on the boat without climbing a ladder! Tomorrow I'm going to call and see if the City Marina will let us stay there a few days, since we already paid for a month. We'll see, we're still not sure where we'll be on Christmas.
12/21/2010, Still on the hard in Charleston
So often something long anticipated does not live up to the expectation. I was worried that might be the case with Charleston. Driving to the Charleston City Boatyard from the airport and running errands on Monday had shown me a region that I liked for the water, the rivers and tidal flats, but that looked like so much of suburban America, a pretty interchangeable grouping of chain stores and fast food restaurants arrayed along a network of four lane highways between the interstates. We'd even gone into the city some, and aside from the amount of waterfront (and I always love waterfront) I saw nothing to really captivate me.
That changed as soon as Amy and I began our tour on foot. We started with the Charleston market at the foot of Market Street. The market is a series of about three block-long narrow buildings that form a median for Market Street. It is old; it started as a slave market! Now it's filled with small booths with displays of great local crafts and trinkets. I bought some gifts there, some local and some imported crafts. I got a sweetgrass basket, which is a local craft, and every craftsperson I saw displaying and working on the baskets was black. They are made from a combination of local flora, pine needles, bull rushes, palm leaves and sweetgrass.
After the market we ate at a local restaurant and I had to try a cup of she-crab soup. As you might guess from the name, it's a soup made from crabmeat and crab roe, and it is good.
At this point I was starting to appreciate the city, but that was nothing compared to the old town along the Battery and south of Broad. There Charleston was everything I had thought it would be. Beautiful, tall, narrow houses fronting small streets with glimpses of lush courtyards in between. We walked along the Battery, a raised seawall that goes along the Cooper and Ashley Rivers and protects the old town from storms. The first things I saw when we got up to the Cooper River were dolphins out in the water!
Battery park, along the Ashley River right at Oyster Point (where the Ashley and Cooper Rivers come together) is a long narrow park completely shaded by live oaks with the river on one side and a row of mansions on the other. We wandered back a few side streets and you could tell the streets and houses had been there since well before the civil war. The picture above is one of the streets leading off the Battery along the Cooper River. I've put a few other photos in the gallery.
We ended our tour at Charles Towne Landing, a state historic site across the Ashley River at the site of the first English settlement. Ten years after the founding in 1670, the town moved across to the current downtown area.
The one bad note in the day is that Bud called to tell me that the parts guy tracked our engine mounts and they'd been mistakenly sent to Louisiana. So another pair was ordered and sent overnight for tomorrow. That's our last chance to get in the water before Christmas!