02/06/2011, White Cay, Berry Islands, Bahamas
We left Great Harbour Cay Marina at a little after 8 AM. Before I even put the dock lines away I went below and checked the stuffing box. The stuffing box is at the point where the propeller shaft comes through the hull. We have a standard stuffing box so it is designed to use water as a lubricant for the shaft. The shaft should drip very slowly when the prop is turning. Since we'd had the work done in Charleston, we noticed that it was dripping quite a bit. That's not surprising, because they changed both the bearing outside the hull that the prop rides in and the engine mounts, so the shaft through the stuffing box was bound to have changed. Anyway, the drip seemed to be getting excessive and our bilge pump was coming on more than once a day, so Bud decided to tighten the stuffing box a little. What I was checking was to make sure it wasn't over tightened, so that no water was dripping and the shaft not getting lubricated. But it was fine. I checked it a little later in the day and it was still fine.
The wind was light and variable, as predicted, so we motored the whole way. We came up on a smaller sailboat sailing along, towards the end of the trip. We then altered our course a bit and Bud suggested we might try to fly the jib, because the wind was not quite so on the nose. I really think it was just because the other boat was managing to sail. Anyway, I suggested just putting the staysail out, that's so much easier to handle. Bud agreed, and I'm glad we didn't try the jib because the wind was really too close.
We were almost to the cut into this anchorage, so we rolled up the staysail, donned our communicators and I took my place on the bow. We had no trouble coming in, the cut was fairly narrow, but deep. We motored around looking for a likely place to anchor. The only trouble we had was that the wind and tide were opposed, so it was hard to figure out which way to point the boat. Anyway, we dropped the new anchor, let out about 35 feet of chain and let the boat drift back. Then we let out another 15 feet and Bud backed the engine hard against it. When we thought we had it set, we let out another 30 feet or so. We have somewhere around 80 feet of chain out. As we were finishing up, the boat that had been sailing outside came in and anchored closer to White Cay.
The first thing we did was get our new viewing bucket, put the oars and Fuzzy in the dinghy and row out to check the anchor and take Fuzzy ashore. Our new anchor was pretty nicely buried in the sand.
We called Dream Weaver on the radio and made plans to get in touch with them in the morning. Jim called back with an offer of fish, so we quickly put the engine on the dinghy and motored over to meet him in his dinghy. On the way we checked out the channel we'd have to take to move over by him. It looked just over 6 feet at low tide. We'll see what the forecast is before we decide to move. There's thick sand there, this is supposed to be not as good holding here, but better wind protection.
We took Fuzzy back to shore one more time. I was concerned about the dinghy getting loose as the tide rose; we just pulled it up on the beach. Bud made fun of me for my worries as we were only going to be ashore a few minutes. When we got back so we could see the dinghy it was afloat, but the tide was pushing it in.
On the way back to our boat we stopped to meet the folks in the other boat. They are a nice young couple from Ithaca! Their boat says Washington, DC, but that is where they bought it. They had come down from Baltimore starting December 1 and had been in the marina next to us in Charleston on New Year's Day.
This is starting to be fun. Oh, yes, Bud snorkeled around a bit and found a small reef. I was just about to go in and check it out when Jim called with the offer of the fish. Maybe tomorrow. There's also supposed to be a blue hole a little ways up Hoffman's Cay, which forms one shore of the little cove we're in. I'd like to hike up and check that out, too.
02/05/2011, Great Harbour Cay Marina, Berry Islands
This morning I was on the Internet again and saw that the tracking information showed our new anchor was delivered to Ft. Lauderdale yesterday. So the marina manager, Joe, called Tropic Air and found out it was sitting at customs. Joe sent Tyrone, one of the dock guys, to take us to the airport to retrieve our anchor. Joe assured us again that since it was a replacement part it would be duty free. I asked Tyrone if we'd need our cruising permit and passports, he said just passports for ID. I took the cruising permit also, thinking that might be needed to avoid paying duty, besides, it was in a bundle with the passports. When we got to the little airport (about a 5 minute drive) we had to go into a security office where a young woman sitting at a laptop pointed us to a gate and said, go through there. We did, and walked up to the only building, which had the customs office in it. No dogs allowed, so I sat outside with Fuzzy while Bud went in. After a couple of minutes he came out to say that he thought they were going to charge us duty. A few minutes after that, Bud came out with our mail and said they were going to charge us 10% duty and we needed cash. So Tyrone took us back to the marina. I went in and talked to Joe while Bud went down in the boat for cash. Joe called customs. As it turns out, since it's a replacement part we only had to pay 10%, instead of 45%!
So back to the airport, where Bud went back in to the little security office and was told to go back through the gate. A few minutes later Bud and the customs guy came out carrying our anchor. Tyrone helped them hoist it into the back of the jeep and off we went again.
Now Bud was worried that it wouldn't fit on the boat. I told him it was the size recommended for the boat and they're supposed to fit most bow rollers. The tide was still pretty high when we got back, so the bow of the boat was up as high as the dock, so we decided to try it right away. We took the old anchor off and put the new anchor and its new swivel on. I took up on the windlass while Bud guided the new anchor on board. It fit! Well almost. The curved bar at the top of the anchor was hitting our navigation light. And the hole in the anchor that looked like it was for the pin to secure it was nowhere near the pin on the bow roller.
So we took the light off and looked at how to remount that and I went to contact Rocna to find out about the pin. I never had to call Rocna, because on their website they had information on securing the anchor at the bow. Turns out the hole was NOT for a pin. They don't recommend using a pin because the flukes are so large that waves can push hard enough to bend a pin. Then you have to cut the pin to release the anchor. So they recommend lashing the anchor and securing the chain. They specifically say not to drill a new hole for a pin. Glad I checked!
We fiddled around a bit with the light and Bud came up with the idea to just add a couple of pieces of marine plastic wood (StarBoard) and remount the light a couple of inches above where it was using zip ties. The StarBoard is bolted to the old light bracket and serves as a backing for the light. One zip tie goes around the bottom of the lens and through the StarBoard; another goes around the top of the lens and around the front vertical piece of the bow pulpit. It works - thanks again for the good zip ties Bob & Donna! We figure this will get us through until we're ready to have some work done on the boat, and then we'll have the mount for the light redone.
So tomorrow we leave the marina again. We're only going a short ways to where our new friends Jim and Judy aboard Dream Weaver are. We'll anchor near them, then at high tide on Monday move the boat back to where we think it will be quite secure for some mild squalls due Monday night (top winds 30 to 35 knots). We certainly hope we can sleep well with this anchor deployed.
We're also on the lookout for Scott and Brittany aboard Rasmus. Their website said they were headed for the Berry Islands today. We were half expecting them to show up here. We hailed them several times on the VHF, but didn't get an answer, so they may have gone to the southern end of the chain. I'll check their website again tonight, and we'll keep hailing them on the radio as we go. I would love to see them again. We left them on October 29 in Catskill, on the Hudson!
Our next planned stop where we think we'll have Internet is Nassau. Don't know when that will be. We are hoping to spend a while at anchor now, so I really do think we'll be out of touch for a bit.
02/04/2011, Great Harbour Cay Marina, Berry Islands
We didn't do much today. Bud worked on one of the hatch frames, sanding it down to re-varnish it. I repaired our US Flag. Once we get back to the US to a place we can have things easily shipped I'm going to order a new one, as the end of ours is frayed. I'm not sure this is proper flag etiquette, but I folded it over a couple of times and re-stitched it. It looks OK.
We didn't go anywhere this afternoon because we were waiting for food we ordered. One of the churches here was having a "cook-out" and the woman dockmaster asked us if we wanted to order any food. We ordered conch stew, which came with Johnnycake and sweet potato bread for dessert. She wasn't real sure when it was coming. Sometime between 2 and 4 seemed likely. We finally got it just before 6. Sam, the dockmaster, gave us an order of souse to try with it. It was made with chicken wings cut up, chicken gizzards, potatoes, celery and spices. All the food was great. I can't believe how tender the conch was. It had very subtle spicing, but was pretty hot. The souse had almost a pickled flavor, not hot but tangy, and very good. The Johnnycake wasn't like any I've ever had. It was very sweet and melted in your mouth. Altogether, it was worth waiting for.
I didn't take any more pictures today, so I'll just post this. I've been having trouble with the Internet, so if you don't see a post, I couldn't get on. Word is, the anchor is on its way!
02/03/2011, Great Harbour Cay Marina, Berry Islands
While we were here waiting for our anchor we decided to pull our dinghy out on shore and paint the registration numbers on it. We'd put the stick on numbers on it in St. Augustine and they immediately started coming off. By the time we got here, we had about one letter and two numbers left. I'd bought spray paint for plastic (including PVC) and stencils in Stuart, but we hadn't had the time and place to do the work. Yesterday the numbers were stenciled on. It isn't terribly pretty, but it's legal. So today, we put the dinghy back in the water and put the engine on it. And it was warm enough that we took it out.
We only went a short ways. We went back out the cut and headed southeast. Tyrone, one of the dock guys, said we could snorkel near the beaches there along the rocks at the edge of the island. You can see how the limestone island is eroded on the edge in the photo. That's Bud snorkeling along. I stayed in the dinghy with Fuzzy while he snorkeled, then we switched places. We didn't see too much, there were some starfish in the shallows and some other little fishes in the grassy areas. It was just nice to be in the water. We also learned that it's a lot easier to get back in the dinghy if you leave your fins on. Then you can kick with enough force to lift yourself over the side. We also tried out the little Danforth-type anchor Gary had given us. That dug right into the sand and worked great.
After we snorkeled we drifted around for a bit while Bud dangled a lure in the water. We sort of trolled and then we just motored around. All in all it was nice. Fuzzy is doing quite well in the dinghy, he was lying on a towel on the bottom and stayed there even when Bud opened up the outboard and had the dinghy up on plane. He also liked sitting on my lap in the front of the dinghy getting the wind in his face. I put a couple of more photos from today in the gallery.
It's so nice to be just taking it easy and enjoying the warmth and the sun and the water. This is much more what we had in mind when we started out. Our condolences to all of our family and friends back in the ice and snow. Hope you made it through the storm all right, and remember, we can empty out that forward cabin; it's intended for guests.
02/02/2011, Great Harbour Cay Marina, Berry Islands
After last evening's attempted walk to town we all agreed that we needed to do something else to get groceries. Jim and Judy made inquiries, and found that the marina no longer rented golf carts for just half a day, but the place just down the lane did. So we split the cost with them and we all took the golf cart into town to the grocery store. This is not the grocery Bud and I had been told about, but one we had passed without ever realizing it was a grocery store. That's the store in the photo with Bud and Fuzzy in the golf cart. There's no sign; and although the other end of the building looks like a public place with people on the porch, the grocery store end looks no different than a house. We noticed it in the evening because it was light inside and we could see the shelves.
Anyway, we went and Jim and Judy got some general provisions while Bud and I got some very expensive produce and a few other things. We took that back to the boats so we could get the refrigerated stuff out of the heat (yes, heat) and came back again for the rest of our errands. We stopped at the local boatyard where Bud was able to buy a piece of Plexiglas to make our 5-gallon bucket into a viewing bucket, great for seeing underwater. Then we went back to Coolie Mae's restaurant for the bread we ordered last night. When we got there we met her daughter and granddaughter. The daughter gave us a loaf of bread and four small rolls; she said they couldn't charge us because her mother said the bread didn't rise properly. It looked fine to me and I tried to pay, but she insisted I just take them. When Jim heard we got the bread for free he said he wished he'd ordered some. While I was getting the bread, Bud took a couple of pictures of the area behind the restaurant. One shows some outdoor tables with lawn and a low wall made of coral and conch shells. The other is the ocean view there. Our last stop in town was Pinder's Liquors. I took a photo of the storefront; it was the best-marked store in town. I added these photos to the gallery.
After we got back and the golf cart was returned we decided to eat supper with Jim and Judy and Bud was going to make Jim some cabbage, potatoes and ham. We had half a head of cabbage, but when Bud got it out he thought it was too small. I took my bike and went back to the store and bought another nice head of cabbage. It was $3.25/lb, so the head came to $4.88. That and 6 plums was a bit over $9. (US dollars and Bahamian dollars are accepted at par and used interchangeably here.)
We had a nice dinner and then Jim showed us on the chart exactly where they are anchored behind Little Harbour Cay, so we are going to join them for a bit after we get our anchor. They are going back in the morning. It's been nice to get to know them, and reassuring to be with someone who's done all this before
02/02/2011, Great Harbour Cay Marina, Berry Islands
We hadn't done much at all today. We rode our bikes to the little town again only to find out that the mail boat comes tomorrow so the store had no produce left. Just before we left I heard the marina owner on the radio with a boat coming in. We saw the boat coming in as we headed out; it was another sailboat. When we got back from our unproductive grocery trip we met the couple, Jim and Judy Weaver, from Dream Weaver.
They had been staying further down the Berry Islands where they had stayed 14 years ago. They were helping out the man who lives there, the son of the woman who ran the restaurant there when they were there before. They needed provisions and he told them to come in here to shop on Wednesday, when the mail boat comes. It pays to have local knowledge.
We decided to go out to dinner. The restaurant right at the marina seemed pricey, so Jim and Judy asked and were told about another restaurant in town. The folks at the marina said it was about a 15-minute walk. Now Bud and I had biked to town twice, and it seemed further than that, but we were game. So off we started, after we had a round of cocktails and visited each other's boats.
A word about their boat - Jim had built it 25 years ago from plans. It was beautiful! The photo is of a newly painted Dream Weaver at dock near us. Jim re-painter her this summer up in Ohio. The fiberglass, the woodwork, the fittings all looked professional. Jim had even made all 21 of their sails (they didn't bring all 21 with them this time).
It was starting to get dark as we started off. The roads here are very narrow. We were walking on the wrong side of the road because there was no shoulder at all on the side facing traffic. In any case, traffic is very casual and one truckload of folks stopped to see where we were headed. They were headed in a different direction but kind of laughed at the 15-minute estimate. We'd been walking over 15 minutes already and hadn't made it to the first turn. We were almost half way when a nice Bahamian in a pick-up stopped and let us all climb in the back of his pick-up. He took us right up to the restaurant!
We walked in the restaurant and there were maybe 5 people at the bar. We asked about a chicken dinner (the recommended entrée) to be greeted with consternation by the waitress. "But you have no reservations!" It seems they don't prepare the food if they don't have a reservation. After our apologies and some negotiation with the owner it was decided that she could make a fried snapper dinner for us. No menus, no prices. We sat down and had some great homemade bread and drinks and before too long at all got our salads followed by the fish with rice and beans. It was excellent! Bud and I are going back Wednesday to buy a loaf of the wheat bread; she didn't have anymore left then, but would bake a loaf for us for Wednesday,
After dinner we were faced with that long walk home in the dark. However, on the way out Jim and Judy ran into Chester, the guy they'd been helping on Little Harbour Cay. Chester had just fixed a conch dinner (carrying on his mother's business) for the crowd we met earlier in the truck. That whole crowd had come to the restaurant we were in for drinks, as had Chester. Chester had come up in his skiff, but hearing of our impending walk, he called his sister who came over and drove us all back to the marina. Such nice people!