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S/V Earendil
Sampling the Bahamian Life
01/12/2012, Big Major's Spot, Exumas, Bahamas

We left the Exuma Land and Sea Park this morning and came down to Big Majors Spot and anchored. We had a target to leave by 7:30 in the morning, because we can only spend one day here before we move on towards Georgetown. We actually hit our target departure time and got here, just over 20 nautical miles southeast, at 10:30.

Big Majors Spot is a wide-open bay with a sandy bottom, anchoring is not a problem. The Rocna set up to the bail. We had the dinghy up on the davits so were able to quickly launch it. We deployed the awning, had a bite of lunch and set off to see Staniel Cay, the first community in the Bahamas outside Georgetown and Nassau that Rick and Tracy have seen.

On the way over to Staniel, which is a long dinghy ride away, we went close to the beach here and fed the pigs. This is where the pigs swim out to get food from cruisers. We had a pre-cooked pizza crust that was broken up from being on top of all the other food in the fridge. We decided it was not salvageable and Tracy fed it to the pigs while Bud drove the dinghy and Rick and I took pictures. I put a picture along with others from the day in the gallery.

Rick wanted to visit a grocery store so we decided to dinghy up the creek on the far side of town to Isles Grocery. The tide was fairly high and the creek is shallow so Bud thought it would be better to go there first. The only problem was, once we got there the store was still closed for lunch (12 to 1:30PM). After looking in through the doors, Rick decided it wasn't worth waiting for it to open. This was his first experience with the out island stores, with their one or two isles of food that are mostly empty except on days when the mailboat comes.

We took the dinghy back to the beach at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club and walked through the main part of town from there. I'd forgotten Fuzzy's leash, so we used one of the lines from the dinghy as a leash, it weighed almost as much as he does. We walked to the house that sells bread and there were still loaves available, so Rick bought a whole-wheat loaf and a coconut loaf. I was looking around for the tote bag we'd brought and didn't see it. Bud had left it at Isles Grocery, at the other end of town. He started towards the grocery, we were going to walk up to the gift shop and then back towards the Yacht Club. When we got to the gift shop it wasn't open either. Across the street was a plywood picnic table under a big shade tree so we sat down to wait for the store to open or Bud to get back.

A Bahamian came by and started chatting with us. His name is Don Ferguson, but he told us everyone called him Yellowman after a reggae singer he looks like. We had a nice visit with Yellowman. He was waiting for the local fisherman to come back with his catch. Bud returned with the sack and we all waited for the fisherman. At one point, Rick, Trace and I left to go to the Pink Store, which was reputed to have bananas. Bud and Fuzzy stayed with Yellowman under the tree, that's them in the photo. The pink store didn't have bananas, but Rick got some beers, some Ginger Beer, and some cookies. He offered a beer to Yellowman, which was gratefully accepted and we continued to sit and sip and wait and talk.

Just when we were about to give up and check a couple of the local restaurants for dinner reservations the fishing boat came in. They unloaded about a dozen of the biggest lobsters I've ever seen, 6 or 8 huge conch, about 10 big fish of various kinds, and one huge crab. Rick bought us two lobster tails, two conch, and a hog snapper. We asked them to gut and skin the hog snapper and leave it whole because Bud was going to grill it. We walked back with our bounty and dinghied the mile or so back to the anchorage. There was no wind, the water was perfectly flat, and it was an easy ride. (I didn't have to try to take the computer in this year because we have our Bad Boy WiFi antenna. I'm able to access the internet from the boat. Unfortunately, it's satellite Internet, thus too slow for Skype.)

We had a delicious dinner. Four of us had all we could eat of the grilled hog snapper and there was still a lot of meat left on it. Bud sprinkled the carcass overboard trying to attract fish. He attempted a couple of casts with his one of his cast nets, but the 6 inch fish that were swimming around all easily avoided his net. We were going to play cards again but we were all so tired we just went to bed.

Rick and Tracy really enjoyed seeing the less developed side of the Bahamas. For as close as they are to Florida, the Bahamas have remained relatively unspoiled.

Just for Laughs
01/11/2012, Warderick Wells Cay, Exuma, Bahamas

We didn't move the boat today; we decided to spend an extra day here in the park. We thought we'd have quite a bit of wind from the south, which would make any move further south a bit difficult. There wasn't much wind all day, but we were happy to stay. The wind is picking up tonight and it's a bit west of south, so this is a good place to be as it's protected all around, and many of the anchorages along the Exumas are open to the southwest and west.

It was warm enough today that we deployed the awning. It was declared a success. It gave enough shade to keep the cockpit cool and it helped funnel the breeze down the companionway.

This afternoon we took the dinghy to the west side of the mooring field where there is some coral. There wasn't much coral and we decided not to snorkel. We looked at the bottom with the viewing bucket instead. Then we went over to an area of shallower water and moored the dinghy and went swimming. The water is about 74 degrees according to our instruments. I decided that's about minimum temperature for me. Rick and I, who hadn't showered yesterday, took advantage of the swim to wash. We all rinsed off with the cockpit shower when we got back to the boat.

Bud cooked a stir-fry with pork and tofu and plenty of hot peppers. He had all of us coughing from the fumes while he was cooking it, but it tasted great.

This evening we played Euchre. Rick and Tracy don't play Euchre, but Rick agreed to play if I would try another of his coconut rum and diet coke drinks. Tracy complained all the time that she didn't know how to play and couldn't keep the rules sorted out from Pinochle, but she and Bud won both games. Rick and I aren't done yet; there are other nights to come.

We spent a lot of time laughing today. That always makes it a good day.

Just Having Fun
01/10/2012, Warderick Wells Cay, Exuma, Bahamas

We decided to take it easy today. Actually, we decided to let fate decide our day. We called into the Exuma Land and Sea Park at the 9 AM call in to see if we could get a mooring at Warderick Wells at Park Headquarters where the trails are. If we couldn't, we were going to go on to Big Major's Spot. Every day at 9 AM the park ranger gets on VHF channel 9. First she takes calls from all boats that are leaving the mooring field that day. Then she takes calls from any boats wanting to come into the mooring field. If there's not room that day they can go on a waiting list for the next day. Fate was with us, and three boats who were on the waiting list from yesterday did not respond when they were called, so when she got back to us there was still a mooring ball free in the north mooring field where we wanted to be. So we came to Warderick Wells.

It was only thirteen and a half miles. There was light wind and it was not too far off the nose, so we might not have bothered to fly any sails, but the main had not fallen nicely yesterday and we'd never zipped it into the stack pack, so we raised the main and motor-sailed.

This is an incredibly beautiful spot. We grabbed the mooring balls like pros. Once Fuzzy had been ashore and we'd had lunch, the four of us set off. We went up to the park office and paid for two nights and for Internet for two days. We climbed Boo Boo Hill to look for the little driftwood sign for Earendil that Bud left last year. Unfortunately this place got hit pretty hard with Hurricane Irene and our sign was one of the casualties. We did find another Earendil sign; I took a photo for the record. I snapped this picture of Bud, Rick and Tracy hiking with the mooring field in the background. You can see Earendil riding in the channel.

We'd been invited to a happy hour on the beach, but when we got back from our walk we decided we were happy enough just sitting in the cockpit. Right now, Rick is acting chef and is making spaghetti while I'm writing this blog.

It's been another great day here in our little corner of paradise.

Good Sail, Good Friends, Good Time
01/09/2012, Hawksbill Cay, Exuma Land and Sea Park

We wanted to get out of Nassau and get some distance towards Georgetown. Rick and Tracy were amenable, so we made a pretty long sail today. We left the dock at about a quarter to nine. We couldn't leave earlier because our route took us across the yellow banks and we have to keep a look out for coral heads in that area. It's not recommended to go through there before 11 in the morning, so the sun is high enough not to glare on the water. We arrived at the banks at just about 11 and made it through without incident. There seemed to be fewer coral heads on this route and we only altered course a couple of times. Rick had been at the helm, but when we got to the area with coral heads he let Bud take over. He said if someone was going to run the boat aground he didn't want it to be him.

There was between 11 and 15 knots of apparent wind for most of the day and Earendil really showed her stuff. She romped along at over 7 knots for much of the day. We saw three boats ahead of us as we headed to the banks. We passed all three of them. The wind got a bit lighter later in the day, but we sailed without any engine for 90 per cent of the time. We got to the mooring balls at just about 4:30 in the afternoon after going 49 nautical miles.

We had a fun time snagging the mooring ball with three of us on the bow and at least two of us giving Bud directions on where to turn the boat. But we got the ball on the first try and managed to get two lines secured without incident. We launched the dinghy and took Fuzzy ashore and spent some time playing on our own private beach. Then we hurried back to the boat because it was almost sunset. I grabbed both the conch horns and Rick and I blew the evening tribute to King Sol. Rick and Tracy like the other conch horn I made and are taking it home with them. Rick learned to blow it almost immediately.

We were sitting up in the cockpit enjoying the early evening when I noticed a glow in the sky to the east, just behind the island. Since there are no towns or lights in this area I was wondering what it could be when I realized it was the light from the rising moon. We enjoyed a most spectacular full moonrise. Rick and I both tried to get pictures, but I don't think they came out.

Bud fixed lobster tails we'd bought from a local fisherman on Great Harbour Cay. We all ate a hearty dinner after our full day of sailing. It was a fine day.

Rick says, "Hi, having a great time and wish you were here." to Pat and Pam, Frank and Cindy, and Lois.

01/10/2012 | Leigh
Hooray! You are back to the Bahamas. I have been thinking about you guys and wondering and today I finally thought to look at the blog. We are in Clarke's Court Bay on the south coast of Grenada. We have been in Grenada since 13 December; we just extended our cruising permit to 13 February. We are having a solar project done at last.
Are you going to cross into the Caribbean? Hope we will meet up somewhere this winter or spring. We have not decided what to do for hurricane season this year but will mosey north through to Antigua or St Martin or even the Virgins before that. Fair winds and happy 2012. Susan, JP and Leigh on Raconteur
First Guests Aboard
01/08/2012, Nassau Harbour Club, Nassau, New Providence

Rick & Trace arrived tonight. They will be with us for 10 days. Bud and I spent the day cleaning and moving things. Bud not only managed to get the forward cabin bed cleared off, he emptied a drawer and a cupboard. I'm amazed.

We waited outside the marina for them to come in a cab from the airport. We were afraid they wouldn't be sure where to come because from the street you'd never know this was a marina. There is an octagonal building, and running east from that is a long, turquoise, blank wall with a double door on the end towards the building. You go through those doors and you are in a short passageway. Straight ahead and down a flight of steps is the swimming pool and past that is the marina.

We are so happy to have them here! We sat around and talked all evening. Bud just went to bed and it's 11:30! This is a new record for him. I'm writing a short blog and posting the picture. I don't think I'll have Internet for several days, so the blog entries will all be posted via SSB and will have no photos.

01/09/2012 | Lois Sindoni

Enjoy your blogs and pictures. I'm wishing Rick a Happy Birthday Lois
Nassau on Time
01/07/2012, Nassau Harbour Club, Nassau, New Providence

Well, we were beginning to wonder back at Vero Beach when one thing after the other seemed to be going wrong, but today at about 2 PM we got to the marina in Nassau. We motored almost the entire 38 nm with little wind and flat seas. Towards the end we flew the jib, but it did more for our attitude than for the speed. It did help a bit.

We fueled up and got a slip. We tried to get to the marine stores, but all were closed before we got there. We did get to the liquor store and the grocery store, so the boat is all stocked up.

Tomorrow evening our friends Rick and Tracy from Tuscarora Yacht Club fly in. We'll spend the day cleaning up and doing laundry and trying to put things away so there's room for them in the forward cabin.

This marina is a bit funky like much of Nassau. I took this picture of the pool with the seagull in it, because that visually sums up this place. It's paradise on the seedy side. We're at the Nassau Harbour Club Marina and Hotel. I haven't seen a hotel guest, but I guess they do still rent the rooms. It's a decent marina, though it gets a lot of waves from the boat wakes in the harbor channel. There's no breakwater here for protection. The harbor is narrow enough that you don't need much protection from the wind, but it's also busy enough that some protection from other boats' wakes would be nice.

I posted a picture for yesterday, I was glad to see that my entry posted OK. I also added a couple of shots from the anchorage to the gallery, including one of the second fish Bud caught.

01/08/2012 | Jill
To answer Bob's questions about conch. Yes, you can eat them in a lot of ways. To tenderize the meat you beat it (hard) with a hammer until you've split the fibers apart. As for hunting them, it's just a matter of finding them walking across the sand in shallow grassy areas. You dive down and pick them up. Understandably there were once millions and now are not found in abundance except in remote areas.
01/08/2012 | Paul VanVoorhees
Say HI to Rick and Company from those of us still in WNY!
01/08/2012 | Rich Bebee
Flad to see you're back in the water. We missed each other again. We were in KW the week after Christmas.

Happy sailing.

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