02/15/2012, Flamingo Cay, Jumentoes
What a nice day. This morning we took the dinghy to the beach along with tools and supplies because Bud wanted to clean the idle jet on the carb of the outboard as the engine hasn't been idling properly. I took a picture of him all set up working under some trees on the beach. There were curly-tailed lizards all around where we were working. I took one picture of two of them on the blanket we brought for Fuzzy to lay on (Fuzzy prefers to lay in the sand) and one, which will be the picture for today, of one sitting on my shoe. The other pictures I'll put in the gallery.
I tried to get Fuzzy to walk with me while Bud was working, but Fuzzy was hot and tired after one stroll down the beach. So he went back and lay down in the shade near Bud and I went back and helped with the work. We didn't actually see any dirt in the jet, but after Bud got it all back together and we installed it on the dinghy it ran fine. That's a relief.
This afternoon we left Fuzzy on the boat and I took a walk while Bud snorkeled. I didn't get too far, I couldn't find the trail and the ironstone shore was too rough to make much progress. Bud also came back saying the edge of the cove was too shallow. So we got in the dinghy and explored a bit. I took a picture of the wrecked mailboat in the next cove. We didn't find any place to beach the dinghy to walk and snorkel again, but Bud thought the area we traveled over would be great for fishing. So I went back to keep Fuzzy company and Bud took his gear and went out fishing.
He'd been out there a while when I heard him call on the radio. He wanted to know if a Queen Trigger Fish was good eating. He forgot to switch off channel 16 so while I was looking things up the other boats in the harbor (we have a new cruiser now, the one here yesterday left, and the Bahamian fishing boat is still here) joined the conversation and said, yes they are. But in the end Bud thought it was just too beautiful to kill, so he let it go. Besides he was sure he'd catch something else. He saw more fish, three huge barracuda were following the dinghy, then he saw a whole school of huge snappers that were also swimming around him. Unfortunately they weren't interested in his frozen mullet bait. So we had flounder from the freezer for supper. That's okay, Bud had a great time.
02/14/2012, Flamingo Cay, Jumentoes
Okay, we motor sailed another 60 nm and now we're back at Flamingo Cay again. On the way we passed Passages, they were headed back to Thompson Bay! We talked to them on the radio, we knew they were alright because we'd exchanged emails, but today we got a better account of their stay here through the front. The wind and waves picked up all day Saturday, until near dark they had to move out and anchor in deeper water because the swells were bumping them on the bottom. There was no way they could get to shore in a dinghy, they estimated they were getting 6 foot waves. The wind blew harder here and took longer to turn to the north and east of north. They had 30 knot gusts overnight Saturday night and they spent the night on anchor watch. The wind didn't move to behind the island until Sunday afternoon. I'm so glad we left. They said it would have been terrible for us with Fuzzy, and we did the right thing to move.
So now we're here. We will stay here a couple of days, anyway. We're waiting to see if the next front, which comes next Sunday or so, is expected to make it down this far. If there's a chance it will, we'll make sure we're somewhere secure by then. Meanwhile we have a few nice days to see at least this island (I don't want to move further south until we know we won't have to go back again).
Bud already started fishing. He tried fishing on the way down. He asked me if I would take the helm while he fished. I told him that was okay, but he wasn't allowed to catch anything because I didn't want to slow or turn the boat. He didn't catch anything, so that was fine by me. After supper he took a few pieces of raw chicken he saved and tried fishing off the boat. He caught two Margates. Those aren't supposed to be great eating, so he let them both go and then quit fishing.
We had a little trouble anchoring. There were two boats here, a cruiser and a Bahamian fishing boat. Ed on Passages had told us to anchor a bit further out than last time. The Bahamian boat was further out, so we tried dropping our anchor behind the cruiser so we'd end up even with the Bahamian boat. That area didn't seem to have any sand, though and the anchor wouldn't set. We ended up in front of the Bahamian boat. It's closer to shore than we wanted, but the wind is all supposed to be from the east for the next several days and the anchor is buried to the bail, so it's nice and secure.
I got a nice picture of the beach here. There were some dark clouds behind it and a rainbow. I hope to get some more pictures over the next few days. I'll post them all once we're back to civilization. Meanwhile, we're enjoying the relative solitude.
02/13/2012, Thompson Bay, Long Island
This morning Bud made two trips to Long Island Petroleum, about a mile south of us by dinghy. The first time he bought 15 gallons of diesel to fill up the three jerry jugs we carry on deck. The second time he bought 20 gallons of water to fill up the four jerry jugs we carry in the aft shower. That might have been the end of the trips, but there was an announcement for a happy hour tonight on the north beach, so after lunch we all went back to Salt Pond and the Long Island Breeze dinghy dock (just north of Long Island Petroleum). Bud went to the store. Fuzzy and I walked around a bit and then sat down to see if I could get Internet, even though Long Island Breeze is closed on Mondays. The Internet was on, but I couldn't get on line. Either I wasn't close enough to get a good signal or they have changed the password. Anyway, no Internet and no pictures. But Bud did get sliced almonds to make Chinese Cabbage Salad from a recipe from our friend Erin.
While Bud was finishing the salad I figured out how to enter waypoints into the map program on our iPad. The iPad is our backup for our chartplotter and though we haven't needed to use it yet, we thought it best to be ready in case. Other places we've been the routes have been on the iPad, but the routes in the Jumentoes are not. On our way back from Flamingo the chartplotter wouldn't show our track, it turns out the track was there, but hidden. We didn't know that at the time, and though we had no other problems with the chartplotter, it was a reminder to be ready with the back-up in case something really went wrong.
The happy hour turned out to be very nice. Fuzzy went, we thought it would be a great opportunity for him to wander the beach. He was having a great time, but the table that the cruisers have used in the past was washed away by the hurricane, so the food ended up being set out on low benches made of found material propped up on milk crates. That was a little too close to Fuzzy's nose, so after he ate his food I ended up putting him in the front pack for the rest of the evening. He was pretty content for most of the time and seemed to enjoy all the people. When the food got picked up I let him down again and he decided to eat the rest of his food and run around on the beach a bit, so we ended up being the last ones to leave.
Now it's 7:30 and we'll be going to bed before long because it's going to be another early morning and another 60 miles back to Flamingo Cay. Passages might still be there, you never know.
02/12/2012, Thompson Bay, Long Island
Bud and I are still happy we made the 60 nm trip back here. It blew all night from just west of north, sometimes at 15 knots or less, but sometimes over 20 knots. This morning it was about 355 degrees and 20 to 25 knots. Gradually during the day the wind moved a bit towards the east and overall has tapered off, but it is still gusting to near 20 knots and is still much closer to the north than the east.
Bud and I were both exhausted and spent the day resting. Bud did add water and diesel from our jugs to the tanks. We're not too happy with the fuel consumption on the new Yanmar. We ran the engine mostly at 2000 RPM or less for between 6 and 7 hours and used at least 12 gallons of fuel. We're going to have to measure the tanks before and after a days run to get a better handle on this, but we seem to be using almost twice the fuel we should. Also, the stern is all covered with grey again. Now that we aren't breaking in the engine and aren't running it hard, we shouldn't be seeing this.
The front that came through is a real cold front. We haven't seen the internet for days, so we don't know what it's done in the US, but here we think the temperature is down to around 70, probably below that with wind chill. Bud and I both wore our foul weather jackets to take Fuzzy ashore this evening. Fuzzy has been shaking, but we don't know if it's from the cold or some other discomfort. I thought perhaps he was feeling seasick, because even here in this protected harbor the boat has been moving around a lot. This afternoon I gave him Dramamine along with his Prozac. I expect him to fall asleep shortly! Poor Fuzzy, I think it's tough being an old sailing dog.
This is the first real front we've seen this year, and probably the strongest front we've seen in the Bahamas. A lot of people come to the Bahamas and stay up in the Abaco chain at the north west of the Bahamas. Bud and I don't understand that, as front after front mosves off the US coast and makes it to the Abacos and stalls. They seem to get all the bad weather. Besides, they are crowded and developed compared to places like this. Even with boats coming in for protection from the front, there are only 42 boats here, and there's probably only another 50 or so on the whole island. Marsh Harbor, in the Abacos no doubt has at least 200 boats, and there are probably 500 or more in harbors and marinas within 30 miles of Marsh Harbor. We'd much rather be in the central and southern Bahamas.
I took a couple of pictures to try to show the harbor with all the boats pointed north. It's hard to get a good shot as the harbor is quite large, about a mile across. I'll have to see what they look like and post the best one, whenever I get access to the Internet again.
02/11/2012, Thompson Bay, Long Island
By the time we woke up in the morning the wind was blowing out of the south and small waves were building in the anchorage. Since the forecast said the wind would clock through the west to the north all day and not get to the north east (where there is good protection there) until late tomorrow morning, our decision to leave was confirmed. We hoisted the main at anchor and were out of the anchorage before 7 AM.
We ended up motor-sailing almost the whole way back. Our route took us northeast and then directly east. The wind was south-southwest when we left and kept moving more westerly all day, so it was always off the stern. It was also stronger than we expected and blew from 15 to 20 knots all day. It was fine sailing, but we don't think it would be any fun in that anchorage. Between Long Island and the Jumentoes is a huge area of shallow sand flats. Some of it even dries at low tide. Leading through this is a wide, shallow channel that runs close to east-west. That's called the Comer Channel. We noticed that the waves on the Great Bahama Bank were building all day. As we approached the Comer Channel they were probably in the three to four foot range. Then as we got into the shallows they decreased and never built back up east of the Comer Channel. We think that anchorage at Flamingo Cay is pretty uncomfortable now, and will be all night long. We're very happy to be back at Thompson Bay and just hope our friends are all right back in the anchorage.
We came 58 miles by the log today. The mile difference in the measured distance is due to current. We had no trouble and were anchored and buttoned down by 3:30 this afternoon. We're in just about the same place we were two days ago, but now we're facing the west. The wind is blowing and it's wavy here, but the wind is already behind the point of land that forms the west side of this bay, and the waves are not much more than a foot. There is excellent holding here (anchors tend to stay where put) so we feel very secure. It was rough taking Fuzzy ashore, we both got soaked. If the wind is closer to the north in the morning it will be better.
It was a lot of work sailing 60 miles two days in a row, so tomorrow we will rest. Monday, if it's not too rough (and the wind is supposed to move to the east, so this bay should be fairly calm) we will replenish the water and fuel we've used and if the forecast looks OK we will head back to the Jumentoes on Tuesday. Since the Long Island Breeze isn't open on Sunday or Monday I may not get to post any pictures before we take off again. I didn't take many. You really can't capture the vast expanse of water and sky with a camera, and the distant shores which are interesting as you sail by are just lines and dots in a picture. Hopefully we'll get back to the Jumentoes and stay long enough to see a bit of it and get some pictures to post.
02/10/2012, Flamingo Cay, Jumentoes
Yeah, we're someplace new. Passages, Maja and we set out from Thompson Bay for the Jumentoes. Both Passages and Maja left before us because we had to take Fuzzy ashore and then secure the dinghy. We all figured that was OK because Earendil is the fastest of the three boats. Early in the day it was a motor-sail. We had some sind, but it was behind us and not enough to move us along. Once we got through the shallow, but very wide Comer Channel our course took us south, and soon we were sailing.
We sailed from between 6 to almost 8 knots. And yes, we did pass both Passages and Maja. It was really a nice sail, we did almost 60 nautical miles by our log. We were all nicely at anchor before Passages and Maja arrived. The only problem was it got shallow really quickly to the side and we were afraid if we got blown that way we'd go aground. We didn't figure that out until after Passages and Maja both came in and anchored. So we hauled up the anchor and moved, twice, and ran aground trying to find out how deep it was and an hour and a half later we were finally anchored again. lBud was pretty upset with me because he'd wanted to pull up and move over 50 feet or so from the beginning. I thought he was worried about the rocks, which were plenty far enough away, but he was worried about the depth, which wasn't good about 30 feet off our beam. Anyway, we finally did get anchored and all is well, almost.
The Jumentoes is a very remote chain of islands. We are anchored off a pretty little beach and were joined by the folks on another boat named Passages, so there are four boats here, and it's at least 10 miles to the next nearest boat and at least 30 miles to the nearest place where anybody lives on land. It's dark now and the lights from the 4 boats are the only lights you can see. I took a picture of the four boats at anchor just before it got too dark to see. the next time I have internet I'll post it, along with a pictures of Passages and Maja under sail.
The one drawback to the Jumentoes is that there are few places to hide out from a weather front that brings winds that clock around and have a western component. The prevailing winds here are from the east. We came here today knowing there was a front coming through, but the westerly component of the winds was supposed to be 15 knots or less and the bad winds were from the north and during the day on Sunday. Well, the weather forecast has changed. The winds are supposed to pick up during the night tomorrow night, and blow at 20 to 25 knots from the northwest and the north-northwest. We don't have protection from those directions and now Bud and I are thinking that we have to head back towards a safer harbor tomorrow.
All the boaters that are here met on the beach at sunset and discussed the situation but didn't have the latest forecast. I just got that off my sailmail now. The boats in the harbor shared it via the radio. Passages (the first) and Maja are both planning to stay here through this front, but Bud and I are thinking we're going back to Long Island or to another anchorage. I'll let you know tomorrow where we are.