We arrive Ensenada de Matanchen
09 December 2011
By Gina
December 2-5
It was an eventful morning as we close in on Ensenada de Matanchen. Just after the sun rose, we finally saw Humback whales. It was a perfect setting for these huge magnificent creatures frolicking in the water, lifting their huge fins as they roll around and play. One enormous whale shot out of the water like a cannon, straight up into the air, before landing back in the water, belly flop style! Truely amazing.
About an hour later, all hands were on deck, as Rick wrestled in a beautiful 39 inch Dorado! And yes, we measured! What a gorgeous creature! While she was in the water, fighting for freedom, her color was a magnificent yellow, blue, and green and then quickly changed color as she lost the fight. Rick did the cleaning and filleting off the swim step, with help from the kids. Then we were back on course and looking forward to fresh Mahi Mahi for dinner.
We arrived Matanchen and dropped the hook about 930am. We looked around this picturesque bay where the beaches were lined with huge palapas with enough chairs to accomadate the masses. From our vantage point, it looked deserted. We all piled into Harmony's dinghy and went to shore. A local restaurant owner, Baro, greeted us and invited us to try his small restaurant. The kitchen was a tiny little shack with a few tables off to the side, and their home was just beyond. Beautiful and friendly people. We enjoyed shrimp ceviche, empenadas, and cold beverages while Baro practiced his english, filling us in on his story. As we sit, a local approaches our table selling fresh banana bread that we could not pass up! Another passes by in his truck selling oranges, and another selling icecream. We take in our surroundings with smiles. James kept commenting "how cool is this?!".
Near sunset, we grilled fresh Mahi Mahi. I believe we might have convinced Terry that there is life after beef! Ceviche and Mahi Mahi in one day!
The next morning we went on the La Tovara jungle tour. The panga tour took us up the lush winding river, through canopies of mangroves, where the kids were mesmerized by the peaceful setting, beautiful folliage, and wild life. Our young driver who spoke no english had a keen eye for spotting the camouflaged crocodiles, iguanas and turtles. He'd stop and point until we finally saw those hidden creatures, then waited patiently while we took pictures. There were so many different species of birds, we recognized only a few. Close to the end the river opens into La Tovara Spring. Those who are interested are welcome to take a dip in the protected fresh water spring. Our guide took us deeper into the jungle to Camalota Spring where a local family operates a crocodile refuge. After seeing all those crocs in the wild, it was a bit sad seeing them in captivity. James thought it was cool to see these huge creatures up close....Syd thought it was criminal! After walking around for awhile, we enjoyed a coke and amazing freshly baked pineapple, strawberry, and caramel empenadas. Pineapple was the overall favorite!
After the tour ended, the walk took us back through the primative little community, passing small tiendas that sold mostly food, trinkets, and baked goods. When we got close to the beach, we happened upon a litter of adorable puppies, still wobbly on their feet. The very proud but exhausted mama was close by wagging her tail.
As we continued our walk along the beach, we decided to stop at another little palapa for lunch. We ended up staying for a few hours grazing on different items from their menu. The kids went back and forth from the palapa to the beach. Swim, eat, swim, eat, swim, eat. If it weren't for those pesky Jenenes (pronounced hay-hay-nays) which are biting little no-see-um bugs, I would call it a perfect day.
That little offshore disturbance that we had heard was comming fizzled out so we decided to stay one more day. On that last day we did more of the same. We went farther up the beach and tried out another palapa. All weekend we were the only gringos at these establishments but there were quite a few local families there doing the same thing. Eat, swim, eat, swim. La vida es buena!