11/24/2009

Ginjer and Rebecca ascending some fantastic granite.

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11/24/2009

Ginjer 'Yak' leads the way for an expedition on our inflatable kayaks.

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11/24/2009

After a few days anchored off the Malecon at La Paz, it's time to pull up the hook and explore north into the Sea of Cortez. Here in La Paz, the living is so good many cruisers have "swallowed the hook" and stayed here. We met a guy named Rainbow Hawk who came here on a boat in 1951 - and he's still here, holding court daily at his favorite outdoor restaurant, and feeding a pigeon who comes to him. When I introduced Rebecca, mi espousa, he pointed out the similarity between that word and "handcuffs." (he has two ex-Mrs. Rainbows somewhere). For the record, the First Mate of Liberte is anything but. I'm constantly impressed with Rebecca's cruising skills, from driving down waves on a night watch to turning out some amazing flavors from her ship's galley.

Our first night here, there was a grand fireworks show over the Malecon for a local school sports event. That was our chance to have dinner on the town as a sendoff to our crew Scout and Ginjer. Thanks for everything, guys - the rigging, the mast climbing, the driving, the good stories, great tunes, Spanish translation, etc. etc.

We've done some exploring and a couple of shopping trips on foot. David got his hair cut by some colorful locals at a place in someone's front living room, while their kids dogsat Sammy.

This morning, we got up to sunrise, paddled the kayaks ashore and a walk along the Malecon, then a breakfast of fresh tortillas, eggs with fresh herbs and juicy mango. Then a few boat and engine chores to make The Mistress happy. We're sitting in a little cafe under the palm trees with wireless, while someone fixes the showers.

We have been serenaded very loudly for a couple nights by a nearby place named "Pappas and Beer." Evidently, Pappa loves his tuba, because the horns have been muy fuerte until 5 or so every morning. Last night was a night off for the musicians and a blissful quiet has descended on Liberte. David was tempted to go and test out his trumpet embechure with the horn section.

Life is grand onboard Liberte. Here's to a hot shower, fish tacos for lunch, and a quiet anchorage tonight on Isla Partida.

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11/21/2009

WOW. Double wow. We are hanging out on the waterfront at La Paz. We spent last night in Bahia San Gabriel, where we hung out with nobody but the frigate birds, dolphins and pelicanos. These have been our constant companions since leaving the bright lights of Cabo San Lucas. We really are - thank you Gartly - where the wild things are. We had a truly incredible anchorage at Los Frailles, where we hiked to the top of a mountain through the volcanic rocks and cactus, then kayaked with a clan of sea lions the next morning. We had a sendoff from an osprey who perched atop the mast, and wondered if he'd come down from his summer home in Coeur d'Alene. The dolphins spent a good half hour spinning and doing flips off the bow as we passed Los Muertos. Tomorrow we lose two crew, Scottie and Ginjer, who it's hard to imagine life without - but we'll try to manage with just the two of us lovebirds... and the true Charter Guest, the dogface. Que te vaya bien. Thanks for the waypoints in the Sea, Gartly. If we ever find a way to leave La Paz, we'll see what there is to see...

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11/17/2009

It's November and the blooms are out for our morning walk around the marina.

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11/17/2009

Big, wild, beautiful.

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