Voyages of Liberte
 
Sunrise over Topolobampo
12/07/2009

Of all the sunrises and sunsets we've been lucky enough to experience daily, this one stole the show. It was special, too, marking the landfall of our passage across the Sea of Cortez. We picked a full moon night for best visibility in the crossing, and made passage from Isla Catalina to Topolobampo.

12/10/2009 | Mom
How magnificent! What richness to experience this!
Isla Catalina
12/07/2009

Capt. Gartly Curtis recommended this day anchorage off the beaten path. We went for a lunch hook on the way from Agua Verde to cross the Sea of Cortez over to the mainland. We explored by kayak and on foot for an hour or so. Rebecca found some perfect stones for 'hot stone massage' on board Liberte, and David and Sammy walked through the giant cacti. This island paradise was truly wild and amazing. Thank you Gartly!

Sammy's admirer
12/07/2009

This dog named Osso totally fell in love with Samantha during our walk through the tiny fishing village at Agua Verde. He followed her everywhere, even back to the kayaks, where he tried to follow by swimming for a long ways from shore behind Rebecca's boat. We last spotted Osso sadly heading back to the beach, where he then tried to forget his new love by rolling in something, then chasing a bird away. We're pretty sure he dreamed about Sammy in his afternoon siesta. We think she told him, I'm sorry, I am in love with the sea. I must go away.

Bahia Agua Verde
12/07/2009

Beautiful to wake up and watch these Drascombe longboats leave the beach. They are sailed by NOLS participants who cruise the Sea of Cortez - these kids had been out for 3 months. When there's wind, you sail, and when there's not, you row using two sets of oarlocks. They pull in and camp on the beach, and were headed for the nearby hot springs for the full moon.

12/08/2009 | Scott Galbraith
That looks like my kind of boat. screw engines....stroke...stroke
Mission of Francisco Xavier
12/07/2009

We drove a rental car from Puerto Escondido way up in the Sierra de la Giganticas to a remote mission, where the caballeros were putting on a show before a big local festival. We were the only gringos around. The drive to the mission reminded me of learning to drive our family's Peugot in Kenya. The road began with some gorgeous smooth blacktop that ended all at once and turned to a four-wheel drive track in places, fording creeks and bumping over rocks. Head for the smoothest part of the road, avoid a sharp rock cutting the tire, and avoid the high-center at all costs. On the way, we stopped at a small mountain oasis I remember from my travels with Gartly, and bought some of the sweetest oranges you can hope to taste. We hammered down the rough track with the windows down, spitting orange seeds out the window and watching the mountains go by.

Sierra de la Giganticas
12/01/2009

These mountains are absolutely stunning to wake up to. Rebecca got this shot of Sammy and I paddling back to Liberte yesterday morning. Incredible place to be.

12/01/2009 | Warren&Debbie
We were there!
12/01/2009 | Tom
Excellent photos. I would love to be there with you. Hope you were able to make it in to Loreto. I suspect the full moon and warmer latitudes beckon. Vaya con Dios!
Tomas Quemado
12/02/2009 | Sue Hutter
luv to see the photos and follow your sailing time...see you in the spring...enjoy!!
12/03/2009 | Amy
Oh. My. Gosh. That is stunning! We love following the adventure. See you February!
12/03/2009 | Jo Ann and Kai
Unbelievable scenery--we miss you! Hugs!

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Who: David and Rebecca Kilmer
Port: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, USA
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