When last I wrote we were in Costa Rica living the good life. After the Gold Museum we went to the Monteverde Cloud Forest to see the jungle, birds and animals. We returned to Lovely Lady sailing to Quepos to visit Manuel Antonio Park and the Sloths. From there we visited Drakes Bay on the Osa Penninsula before getting to Golfito.
One evening in Golfito we did not close our hatches and portlights and we got a torrential down pour. I make it a habit not to open the portlight above the NAV station so the computer doesn't get wet. Well, it rained so hard it filled up the curtain channels to the point of overflowing right onto the computer. It died with all the picutures in it. I have a warranty and a back up drive, but until we return to Seattle and I can get Dell to fix the computer I've decided to suspend wriiting. I promise to update with all the detail later this summer.
We are in Panama City (hot and humid) getting Lovely Lady worked on. The new generator will be delivered on Wednesday, May 18 and on Tuesday May 24 we will haul out to fix the keel, paint the boat, etc. I've hired a project manager to make things happen so hopefully by the middle of May we will be returning to Seattle.
STAY TUNED
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Thought I would do a quick check on sailblogs to see where and how you are doing. Glad to hear you have made it safely to Panama. And sounds like you enjoyed Costa Rica. Wish we had had more time there also, but maybe next time!
John and I are doing well - made the crossing from Galapagos to Marquesas in 21 days. Had a pretty uneventful crossing - my favorite kind! Enjoying the Marquesas before heading to Tuamotus in a few weeks (need dingy motor parts!).
Sorry to hear about the compute. Hope your boat repairs go well in Panama and leave you time to enjoy some of the sites. Take care!
Lisa and John
S/V Orcinius
Museo de Oro Precolombino houses a glittering collection of pre-Columbian gold artifacts. It is one of the most stunning museums I have been in during all my travels. As you wander through the museum you not only are seeing over 500 pieces of gold adornments from ancient times you are also learning about the native peoples of Costa Rica and how they lived.
Highlights of the exhibit were the miniature scenes of village life in pre-Columbian time, life size native models wearing gold adornments, the life like burial scene with many gold pieces and the replica of a grave that was discovered with over 50 gold pieces. The lighting was soft and the display cases lit with just enough light to display the pieces. The overall effect was very serene and respectful.
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Alot has changed in our lives. especially my fathers death in January. We've sold our house in Pa. and moved to our bay house in Md.Then what did we do? We turned around and bought a Townhopuse/condo back in Lancaster county. Can't stand the idea of being away from the family. The invitation stands to stay with us when you gat to the Chesapeake. Hope to hear from you or about your adventure. Jerry.
By the way, Greg asked about you.
Jer
Jer
The Teatro Nacional is the city's most impressive public building. Built in 1897, it features a columned neoclassical façade. The interior is filled with marble statuary and large paintings of Costar Rican life at the turn of the century.
After coffee and carrot cake in the theatre café we strolled back to our hotel enjoying the sights. We saw numerous Peace Doves throughout the area depicting Costa Rica's peaceful influence on Central America. Since 1948 Costar Rica has had no military instead spending their tax dollars on infrastructure and education. Because of this it is an affluent country in the midst of poverty with a 98% literacy rate.
We took a cab to La Cocina de Lena one of the best known restaurants in town. We enjoyed delicious steaks and a pleasant atmosphere. However when presented with the bill I discovered I had left my credit card in the hotel. Leaving Jani as a hostage I grabbed a cab back to the Hotel Aranjuez. When I returned to the same cab after getting my credit card I asked him to take me back to La Cocina de Lena. He had no idea where it was and just started driving in the wrong direction. He was taking me to Café Lena near the museums. I finally had him go back to the hotel, took him inside and asked the desk to tell him to return me to where he picked me up. Finally after 30 minutes I returned to find Jani having a great time chatting up the patrons of the restaurant. We had a great laugh, paid the bill and took a cab to the hotel. What a great day.
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Pedro Morales has crossed the Atlantic 5 times by sail and delivered numerous sailboats from Florida to Costa Rica. An accomplished sailor he lives in Puntarenas with his family. Now he maintains the Beneatu 373 parked next to Lovely Lady at the Costa Rica Yacht Club. It was our pleasure and good fortune to meet him.
While we land traveled Pedro arranged for the following work to be done on Lovely Lady: an engine mechanic changed the oil and gave the Yanmar an 1800 hour service; the Johnson Outboard got a full tune up; the sail cover and other canvas was re-stitched; a propane valve was replaced; and the bottom of the boat was cleaned by a diver. This was an incredible amount of work that was done at local prices and supervised by Pedro. He would only take $40 for arranging all this work. What an angel.
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Our approach to the Costa Rica Yacht Club proved to be challenging. We timed our arrival for the last hour of the flood tide since the channel is very shallow. As we approached Puntarenas we were once again confronted by numerous fishing floats with black flags. Unsure if they were long lines or net markers we gave them a wide berth. As we approached the end of the peninsula things got tense as the water shallowed to 12 feet and the current was pushing us at five knots. To compound things there is only a narrow channel around the peninsula and it appeared to have a sand bar across it. I finally realized that what appeared to be a sand bar was actually a sluice of sand being channeled along the beach and across the channel. We cleared the tip nicely in 12 feet of water.
Once into the protected waters to the north of the Puntarenas Peninsula we were unable to raise the Costa Rica Yacht Club on the VHF. We later learned that only Spanish speakers were on duty and no one wanted to answer our request for a panga to guide us in. Fortunately the Sarana Cruising Guide to Central America pointed out where we could safely anchor. We launched the dinghy and I sped away to get an escort from the yacht club. Jani remained aboard to guard our boat as there was much traffic in the area and warnings about petty theft. Just as I arrived the English speaking receptionist was coming on duty and in no time I was riding with the panga back to Lovely Lady.
Soon we were underway moving up the channel at 4 knots with our panga guide Walter leading the way. By now the tide was high at a plus 9 feet and we cruised along in 8-12 feet of water. I was grateful for the guide as Lovely Lady draws 7 feet. We maneuvered from one side to the other and back again for the 2 miles up the estuary. We were placed on a floating dock in 15 feet of water. We were grateful to find ourselves on the floating dock rather than a mooring since the dock had fresh water!!
Check in to Costa Rica went smoothly. The Yacht Club arranged for the Port Captain and Immigration to come to the Yacht Club. Once finished with them we took a taxi to Customs and soon had all the necessary paperwork to cruise Costa Rica for 90 days. All of this went smoothly and at no charge. This is a big difference from what we heard about Coco's which requires a beach dinghy landing, fees for the Port Captain and a taxi ride to another town for Customs. We like the Easy Button.
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What a great spot this is. We are anchored off a most beautiful beach in crystal clear warm water. For the first time in a long time we are able to jump in the water and swim with Lovely Lady. It is a particular treat for me because it is what I dreamed the cruising life would be like in the tropics. We spend our time relaxing a reading as we enjoy our surroundings.
On Tuesday we motored over to Tambor for a walk and to see the sights. The arrival was challenging as we had to maneuver between moored pangas with a continuous line tied to the dock and a mooring to hold them off. We finally made it and scrambled onto the lower concrete landing. Then to keep our dinghy off the dock I heaved the anchor as far as I could off the stern. Thankfully there were hints on how to do this in the Sarana Cruising Guide.
Tambor was a 20 minute walk away and it felt good to stretch our legs. As we arrived at the one and only intersection we met a couple from Michigan who were on vacation. They had just returned from an ATV ride in the hills and were very excited. We got some tips and directions from them and followed them to the Tienda to check it out for the few things we needed. We continued to wander about and I found the most interesting carved mask at the only tourist ship. One of our goals was to find internet access. As luck would have it Tom and Liz's hotel had a nice restaurant with free Wi-Fi. The lunch was delicious and the Wi-Fi enabled us to check in and catch up on things.
On Wednesday we did chores on the boat until lunch and then set out to explore the nearby river estuary. Since we spent months in an estuary it was very familiar. However the ride in the dinghy was relaxing and cool. Just when we thought we would see nothing we came upon a flock of Snowy Egrets. Fortunately I saw them in plenty of time and was able to cut the engine and drift up to them before they decided to leave. What a treat.
| Costa Rica |
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