Cruising "w/o" Polaris

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Gulf Stream Crossing

10 January 2011
Polaris is in the Bahamas at last. Conditions looked good, it seemed, for an overnight run from Lake Worth, Florida to Lucaya, Grand Bahama late Friday. Of course good weather windows rarely pan out exactly as forecasted. Fortunately in the case of our latest crossing it meant only that the seas were higher than predicted. The wind stayed out of the west, as predicted, with 3-5 foot waves from the NW remaining from the light cold front that passed through Thursday. We were out the inlet by 6pm setting a course SE to allow for a push from the north-flowing Gulf Stream. We started out under motor/sail (our favorite jib/mizzen combo) the first hour fighting an incoming tide. By eight pm we were well into the stream and sailing along comfortably at six knots. By ten the waves had switched to large all-westerly swells and our speed increased to the seven knot range where it remained no matter what we did to slow it down for the remainder of the night.

It was a wild ride surfing down waves more in the area of 4'-9' than 3'-5'. Not our favorite wave configuration for two reasons- the uncomfortable corrections at the end of a push and because our small auto-helm doesn't drive well under such conditions. That meant we had to hand steer which took increased human effort to keep Polaris on track riding down the swells. That in perfect concert with the high density shipping traffic. Although that aspect was made much less stressful by the AIS/VHF that, with the alarm turned OFF, paid for itself in spades. Thankfully, too, as our radar-the same one that worked well on our crossing from Appalachicola to Tarpon Springs-chose to go belly up. As did our large spot light.

Even though we were screaming along at 2 knots/hour faster than anticipated it became a very long night with conditions requiring us to forgo our usual 2 hour watch schedule. We instead used one hour shifts in order to avoid wearing ourselves out with the added exertions of hand steering. During the off hour rest was possible but little sleep came with the extra-uncomfortable motion.

When it became apparent we were going to arrive to our destination in darkness we began rolling in and taking down sails. We still flew at over 7 knots with only a sliver of a jib open!

Sustained casualties: The lens out of a pair of Ken's reading glasses; the radar and spotlight; the cool knot rug Becky made in the Rio last year-it did multiple sporty crossings last year positioned in the same place on the side of the boat; a trim piece under the engine compartment; Ken's lunch; and the portside solar panel that has ridden through other rigorous crossings for nine years went overboard twice, dangling dangerously by the wire with which it's hardwired to the hull. Ken finally had to lash it to the lifelines. And at some nameless point a bunch of small fish jumped on board. One was saved because Becky felt it flopping against her foot at the helm, but we discovered numerous others post mortem.

Finally the boat slowed to a manageable speed an hour before sunrise as we made our way to the narrow harbor entrance into Lucaya. Once safely inside the harbor we rolled up the sail and dropped the hook to try to straighten up the turmoil above and below deck before pulling into the marina. It was then that we dejectedly discovered the new non-skid decks were 'oil spill orange' again and the now familiar tiger stripes returned down the recently painted hull. The remnants of the BP oil spill must be hiding inside our stanchions or under the toe rail only forced out when we go through big salt water seas. Most of it will clean up as it did after our run from Appalach to Tarpon. It will likely happen many more times this season as we won't attempt to search out the cause until we're back in a yard at season's end. With luck maybe it'll all get washed out by then!

All that said we are happily checked into the NW Bahamas and when the weather is right we'll begin working our way south to Georgetown, cruiser camp central. We'll try to make it to the Jumentos and some of the other outlying keys in the southern reaches of the Exumas, too. But frankly, we may need at least a month of sitting still when we finally get to Georgetown. Other than our 2 week respite in Fort Myers during our fuel pump repair we have moved every few days since leaving Mobile in mid-November. Definitely not our style.

We should mention here that the trip across Florida via the Lake Okeechobee Waterway was great. We made it under numerous low bridges (including the frozen raised span of an antiquated and unused railroad bridge that hinders passage for masts over 50 feet-we did some serious eyeballing and phone calling before inching under that one), in and out of 5 locks, across Lake Okeechobee, saw scores of alligators, egrets, ibis, blue herons and ospreys, and partied with new friends on New Years Eve in Indiantown, all in the course of 4 days.

Along with that inland passage came the realization that it was the first fresh water lake we have ever been on with Polaris. We have plyed countless rivers, several oceans, canals and channels, numerous bights, bays and bayous, a Gulf and a Stream, and the token slough and backwater. But never have we experienced a freshwater lake onboard our little beauty. (Although we were darn close to Lago Izabel in the Rio we never actually took the time to take her up into the lake.) Ironic considering she was conceived on the shores of Lake Ontario! Now we've added a new body of water to our list of traveled waterways.

We will happily remain in Lucaya discovering her charms until weather looks good to jump down to the Berry Islands and on to Nassau to wait for good conditions to cross the Yellow Banks taking us to the Exuma chain with cays (islands) called Norman's, Staniel's, Sampson and Allen's, Little Farmers, Black Point, and Wardrick Wells before we drop the anchor in front of Volleyball Beach on Stocking Island across from Georgetown.

Lobster, conch, grouper, rum punches, and WARM breezes...here we come!

LIFE IS GOOD!!!





Comments
Vessel Make/Model: Northern 37' Ketch
Hailing Port: Scappoose, OR...USA
Crew: Ken & Becky Gunderson
Extra:
After retiring in 2001 the crew of Polaris have been traveling the United States and the Caribbean utilizing Polaris as their main means of transportation. Over the years Becky and Ken have had the good fortune to visit and live in many parts of the United States, Canada and Central America. [...]