PANAMA TO THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

When your grandchildren talk to you about Macaroni Penguins, Marine Iguanas, White Tip Sharks, Sea Turtles, Flamingos, Land Tortoises and the Red River Volcano they must be speaking about the species in the Galapagos Islands. The Galapagos lie at 1 01 S and 90 39 W. En route to the South Pacific, the Galapagos became the first leg of Sea Whisper’s journey to the French Polynesia.

Which one of the five main Islands should we visit? Our immigration visa allowed us to visit several islands up to 90 days, or one island for 20 days. Seven year old Caleb suggested Isla Isabela, “The one that looks like a Sea Horse Grandma, and that’s where the Macaroni Penguins live.” We went with this idea because A. It was the largest island of this diverse and unique archipelago and B. We were on a mission to please our grandchildren.

For the next 20 days we would vividly experience the world recognized flora and fauna on which Charles Darwin based his “Theory of the Evolution of Species.”

DATES AND FACTS
1535 Fray Thomas of Berlanga discovered the Galapagos
1832 Republic of Ecuador took possession of Galapagos
1835 Naturalist Charles Darwin arrived in Galapagos on board “H.M.S. Beagle
1959 The Galapagos Islands were declared a National Park
1979 UNESCO declared the Galapagos islands as a Natural Heritage Site
Population 25,400
Land area 8,000 sq. km.
National Park 97% of surface
Marine Reserve 138,000 Sq. Mi. extending 40 miles around it.

ARRIVAL AT PUERTO VILLAMIL
To our surprise, a fleet of 23 yachts were anchored in the harbour at Isla Isabela. Sea Whisper and one other yacht displayed the only 2 Canadian Flags. There were 5 kid boats, 2 single-handlers, a strong British contingent and a Norwegian yacht that had an interesting story. Eight young enterprising and ‘fun to be with’ adults formed a syndicate, bought a 45 ft. Catamaran, left their jobs in Norway and started sailing around the world. ‘Blue Marble’ is her name. Worth checking it out at www.Bluemarble.com. We hung out with the crew….joining in the celebration of Lars 30th birthday and sharing a tour day on the west coast of the island.

CHECKING IN
The usual Immigration and Visa procedure. At Isabela, with a local Agent known as JC, we were informed that our boat would be inspected and possibly sprayed as the officials are particular about foreign diseases entering the Galapagos but I didn’t relish the thought of a chemical mist in my lockers and stores. My bay leaves in the flour and bean bins are doing their job…thank you very much. So I scrambled to put things in order: polished and shined up the galley, the main cabin, the fore and aft cabins and rolled out the Mexican wool rugs. Five smartly dressed officials came on board. After a brief look about including taking photos of fresh garlic in the galley and a peak in the almost bare fridge there was a question about our disposal system and holding tank. It was suggested that the basil plant that was living outside in the cockpit be moved inside the boat. A look of consternation at my baby sea shells, I quickly blurted out “These came from Panama”. We got a stamp of approval. We were good to go! Signed, sealed and delivered….and no spray. Whew!!

THE TOWN OF VILLAMIL
Puerto Villamil is a sleepy town with lagoons and white beaches and white tipped sharks(Tintoreras) in channels carved out of the coral and lava deposits in the turquoise waters. In the urban centre we find the markets, laundry, bakery, restaurants and internet. We hailed water taxis to ferry us around the surf to the dock and then we walked 2 km. on dirt and dusty roads schlepping laundry, groceries, computers, camera and you name it! Our favourite pit stop was the Panaderia where Elizabeth made the best coffee and passed out Pan Au Chocolat. Getting to know the markets we made the rounds in search of the freshest vegetables and fruit. The organic ‘Pollo’ was at the little red market around the corner from the church. One day I managed to snag the only cabbage in town and, disguised at the back of a cooler, a bulk supply of Parmesan cheese. It pays to snoop! The post office displayed the best T-Shirts and we bought 4 for the grandchildren.
A mid day $5.00 lunch special included fish, rice, salad and a soft drink. The kids play in the streets and in the surf at the town beach, everyone drinks coke and eats bags of chips, the guys drive Toyota pickup trucks (2010’s vintage) and the church bells ring at 7 o’clock every night. This is the local scene where houses and tiendas blend together (without fences), and strung-out hammocks, bougainvillea hedges and wandering chickens fill in the gaps between the dirt and dusty spaces.
On a hot steamy day, at ‘Tropical Tours’, a pretty young Equadorian woman(Magella) who is 7 months pregnant signs us up for our first tour, the hike to Sierra Negra, the second largest volcano crater in the world.

VOLCAN SIERRA NEGRA AND VOLCAN CHICO
This major trek was an 18 km. day hoofing through farms and the highlands of Isabela to the edge of the crater of Sierra Negra. Since Isla Isabela has more than 58% of the entire land area of the Galapagos it’s understandable that there could be a chain of 6 volcanoes; some of which are intermittently active. We walked through thick and lush vegetation, groves of native trees and cacti and then onto the ridge of an enormous bowl 10 km. across…the second largest crater in the world. We all stood as soldiers, the sun burning our backs, awestruck at how ungainly the earth had been recreated after the eruption of the volcano in 1998. Steep lush verdant peaks and high ground had collapsed into a gigantic barren bowl of crumbled lava rock. Miles and miles of moonscape with 200 ft. bright green curtained fringes cast a deft view for ever and ever. And we could see how the Red River (of lava) had once scarred a pathway across the crater floor. What a view to eat our sandwiches and fresh fruit lunches! Can you imagine it?
Onwards for 1.5 km. we descended onto the lava floor of Volcano Chico. Void of any vegetation…..just vents, canyons, lava rock spewing in all directions for miles and miles. We walked on the hardscape up and down the canyons capturing the unfamiliar scene of this boulder land. High on a ridge we reached our destination. It’s time for water, refreshment and a chance to soak up the extraordinary view. Can you imagine the lava land flowing down the mountains all the way to the sea. This was our view! This was our day. Nine kilometers back to base camp we hiked.

THE WALL OF TEARS – Muro de las Lagrimas
In the Parque Nacional Galapagos there is a poignant historic landmark. A visit to the historic site reveals a wall built of huge blocks of lava 100 meters long by 7 meters high. From the years 1946 to 1959 there was a penal colony on Isabela and to punish the prisoners they were forced to build ‘The Wall of Tears’. The phrase “You cry or you die,” epitomizes the painful toil outlaid by the prisoners. Close by are concrete pads where Americans had their houses in World War 11. Four of us walked up many stone steps to capture grand views of virgin forest and the ocean beyond.

LAND TORTOISES Adding to the enchantment of the National Park excursion was the discovery of many land tortoises. The big brown male and female reptiles tiptoed into our pathway from their natural habitat, the Galapagos National Park which makes up 97% of the entire land surface. “Oh, there’s a tortoise, oh there’s another one. Is it a male or female? Look at this one, he’s huge (the males have a little tail at the back). He must be almost 100 years old!” All of us were enthralled with their heavy armature and their strong muscled stubby legs. These giants are the emblem of the Galapagos and Isabela Island is the only place in the world with 5 different species. 1.5 km. from Port Villamil is the breeding centre. On another day Lionel and I observed all ages and sizes of turtles and learned about the process of breeding and reproduction of these creatures in captivity to protect the wild population which is considered in danger.

WEST COAST TOUR WITH PAKO AND HULEO…and all the sea life
Ten cruisers formed a group and hired a private boat one day that took us 75 km. up the west coast of Isabela. With twin 140 Suzuki motors we didn’t waste any time. Before long Pakos 30 ft. speedboat landed very close to rocky shores and in the foamy surf we could see hoards of Sea Lions and Marine Iguanas bobbing along with Penguins. “Oh, there’s the Macaroni Penguins,” I exclaimed. More creatures to check off our list!
The next part of our journey was to fish. Our intrepid naturalist guide, Pedro, whipped out a rod, reeled the line out into the sloppy sea and within 5 minutes we had a yellow-tail tuna. Now it’s time to put two lines in the water…maybe a double header? You guessed it, Both rods went zinging at once. Whoops, one line comes up with no wire leader and no lure. No fear, the next line comes up and produces an even bigger catch than the first one. With this tuna fighting hard, Andy from Blue Marble reels it in. Pedro does a fine job of gaffing it. We have the makings for Ceviche! Mr. Yellowtail’s head was sliced down the back as part of the cleaning process only to attract a Hammerhead Shark. Yikes! With tunas in the fish hold we moved on to a bay and into a lagoon to visit the sea life. With wet suits, masks and snorkels we all dove into the rather chilly waters and played with the Sea Lions and Sea Turtles and observed the Blue-footed Boobies and the Flightless Cormorants. Back to the boat to warm up and eat freshly made Ceviche.
Anchor up and everything battened down and we’re off to another swimming hole. We enter this bay with rock pinnacles and lava outcrop where the water is much warmer. Plunging over the side into the deep we instantly swim with giant sea turtles and sea lions. And on the rocks right before our eyes we spot the most handsome ‘Macaroni Penguins’ you could imagine. We stared at their sharp demeanor as they posed so stately. They are adorable and I think they know it!! Such a thrill to watch these rare birds of beauty in their natural habitat.
On the way back to Puerto Villamil, Pako’s boat made a stop at Tunnelles del Estero. These are tunnels and arches that lead under the sea and were formed by volcanic eruptions. We walked on the paths along the edges of the tunnels and marveled at the wonders of nature.

GOODBYE TO THE GALAPAGOS – Log Entry
0830, 1430 utc Depart Isla Isabela, Galapagpos for Hiva Oa, The Marquises
We have had a brief visit with the Natural History of the Galapagos and can appreciate how the unique flora and fauna have given the Galapagos world wide recognition and how the naturalist Charles Darwin , over 150 years ago, concluded his ‘Theory of the Evolution of Species’.

…To be continued in Adventure 11