La Paz to Costa Rica
22 November 2012
Barbara
LA PAZ TO COSTA RICA - Boatyard to Blue Water and Bunting Board
It is October 18, 2012 and Sea whisper is embarking on her new and next Adventure.....Adventure # 7, which will take her from Mexico to Central America and Panama. We have arrived via airplane and bus from Victoria to La Paz on the Baja Peninsula late at night with 300 lbs. of boat gear. The Security guard of Marina de Palmar directs us to Sea Whisper where she has been stored on dry land for 6 months. We get a steel ladder and with great difficulty start hoisting all the heavy equipment up 12 tall steel steps to the transom.
The next morning the work begins; Lionel meets Antonio, the yard boss and they start going over 'the list'. Antonio is a fine young Mexican who 'runs a tight ship'. He gets the show on the road: fare and epoxy the rudder, repair blisters, install a new drain plug, weld studs onto rudder for zincs, paint hull and water line and fabricate a tower for the new wind generator.
For the next 8 days the Mexican yard crew show up for work with calm enthusiasm in their jeans and work shirts. I can't help but notice their coal black jelled hair, toasty brown wrinkle free skin and big smiles. "Hola, Buenos Dias," they greet us as they begin their work. At 0830 hrs. the sun is already gaining intensity and to our amazement, Carlos, Fernando and Pedro work in the blazing heat with very little sun protection, proper foot wear or safety gear for that matter. This is Mexico!
Lionel is around to oversee the work whilst he, with help from me, begins the inside list: start batteries, reconnect lighting, install serviced steering pump, install new hot water heater, bleed steering system, change all fuel filters, change oil in main engine, generator and transmission, replace high pressure valve in water maker, clean and seal steering dipstick, replace forward shower hose and install new head taps, remove bolts in hull for zincs and rebed, drill and install new zincs, clean and vacuum first layer of dirt, check all lockers and hatches for bugs and weevils, re-organize lockers and drawers and food supplies.
After all this work and the wind generator installed, Sea Whisper was launched with a travel lift on October 27th. The launching went smoothly and now it was time to re-rig her and re-provision her: she had been stripped of her gear and her beauty so we had to put up halyards, sails, running back stays, preventors, dorado vents and all the deck gear and lines. Lionel spent considerable time up the mast in the bosun's chair installing the rigging in place. And then we had to re-provision SeaWhisper as our voyage was 2400 nm with only 2 or 3 short stops. Off to Soriannas, the super Mercado of Mexico to stalk the lockers and larders with enough food for bout 3 weeks..
Despite the work load, we did steal some lovely moments to enjoy the flavours of La Paz....'La Pause' as it is sometimes known. To re-acquaint ourselves with this charming city and its warm and friendly people was a real joy. We walked the Malecon to our favourite Panadaria, Pizza restaurant, Café, Waffle shop and Pescado taco stand. I bought 2 more 'Ibarra' pottery cups (famous potter in La Paz). We had our teeth cleaned, our hair cut and attended a wonderful concert with a mezzo soprano in a lovely church.
Our off-shore journey began on October 30th. We bid farewell to Antonio and the work crew of Marina de Palmar, our friends in La Paz and our good friends Caroline and Kathy from the Maple Bay Yacht Club on the SV Shannon(who surprised us before we left), and began the first leg of the passage....a straight shot to Zihuatenanjo 660 nm south. Now on board and at sea, it was time for the 2 of us to get familiar with: the watch routine, the navigation systems, operating the SSB radio, sailing the boat, weather and wind conditions, following the Cruising Guides....and, as Lionel says, fixing anything that breaks! It feels great to be back onboard Sea Whisper, upon the blue water sailing the high seas.
BUNTING BOARD
Historically, a Bunting Board was a slab of wood wedged down the middle of a farmhouse bed so that an unmarried couple who were visiting the farm for an overnight stay, would be separated. Our 'Bunting Board' on Sea Whisper stops us from sliding across the double bed. It helps hold us in place with the lee board on the outside. Basically as we sleep we are snug as bug in a rug or comfy as an egg in an egg carton while at sea. I am grateful for it.
TROPICAL DEPRESSION; The Black Night
After several days at sea one night on my early evening watch I began to see lightning far in the distance. In discussing it with Lionel, he exclaimed, " The lightning is way in the distance and it's way up in the clouds." However, our course didn't allow us to divert from this weather as we were traveling south and the lightning flashes were sparking in the SE and SW horizons. Dusk came as we were clicked off the miles....and then it got dark. Now the lightning flashes appeared much closer and more intense and the sky became ensconced in heavy darkness. Sailing with full main, full jib and the mizzen, Sea Whisper was determined to forge ahead; another 225 nm to Zihuatenanjo. LOG ENTRY 0400 HRS. GPS 19.19.0 N, 105.11.9 W S.O.G. 6.4 C.O.G. 127 Wind ESE 15 kt. I was on watch....and the wind velocity was intensefying rapidly. "Here comes the squall!" I called to Lionel. Flapping sails, flashing lightning, heavy dark clouds, and a torrential downpour. On deck, we scrambled to reduce sail and keep the boat on course. In seconds we were drenched; our life harnesses feeling like the weight of steel armour on top of our sopping clothes. After several anxious moments Sea Whisper was back on course. My watch was over. I peeled off my clothes, towel dried and climbed into my bed with the Bunting Board. I slept. In 3 hours I was back on deck watch. Checked the previous log entry......."Out of the squalls." I carefully watched the course, the AIS and the Radar. Sea Whisper was sailing smoothly with a reef in the main. Suddenly again, the huge sheets of lightning were flashing like strobe lights blinding me, the dark clouds were huge black caves. The demon was back. Another squall. Sea Whisper had sailed into a black hole....a Tropical Depression. The apparent wind was now 35 kts. "Another squall", I yelled, as Lionel scrambled up on deck. Sea Whisper twisted and jerked. As I tried to hand steer, Lionel cranked in the furling jib. Adrenaline was rushing through me as it was almost impossible to see the compass or the windex to steer downwind. The deluge of rain was blinding us and felt like warm pellets of hail on our flesh. Once we got things straightened around we realized Sea Whisper could handle it and had by no means reached her limit; but we were wet and weary. At 0500 hrs. we changed course to find shelter in a little harbour called Cuastacomante also know as the Secret Anchorage. We slept. And in the morning we were ready to head out to sea again.....but first a swim!
Only damage in the storm was a small rip in the mizzen. We will need to repair it but for now the first reefing point covers the rip and we can use the mizzen.
After our swim we sailed to Barra De Navidad. We were in need of a modification to the Tiller Pilot, We hailed a taxi and he drove us to the 'Soldura Grande' (a local welder). You've never seen such a welding shop in your life! A lean-to in someone's back yard. Kids, dogs, scrap metal everywhere, a few onlookers and a couple of welders. In no time a young welder understood Lionel's instructions to reconstruct the bracket and went to work to do the job....with no safety gear of course (the Mexican way).
ZIHUATENANJO
We arrived in this Pacific Mexico town on November 7th. The Aztecs conquered this town in the 1400's. In the 1500's it became a Port of Call along with Acapulco, for trade with the Phillipines. Now it is a popular tourist destination.
The Cruising Guide said the Mercado is not to be missed. But first...launch the dinghy and head into shore through the surf. Our first surf landing on this voyage...... and it was a doozy. A wave caught the stern and we capsized into the surf with sand and salty water everywhere. Lionel got the worst of it. "Look at you, you ol' salt!" We found some fresh water and rinsed off before heading to the market.
THE MERCADO: It lived up to its reputation. You name it, this market had it all. A feast for the senses: And I had my list. frijoles, pastel, limon, café, pollo, pan, papas, dulce cebolla, aqua. Everything was a unique experience...especially the chicken market where a mother and daughter dissected chicken like no tomorrow! Chicken parts were flying everywhere. We ordered "Dos pollo pechuga por favor." Big friendly smiles, photo shoot and a bag of pounded chicken breasts. Mucho gracias. Mission accomplished.
Back on the boat we pulled up anchor and reset across the bay for a long cool down swim in the water. Divine. And then out to sea for the next leg....250 nm to Huatulco and the beginning of Tehuanepec.
In Huatulco, we did our necessary paperwork for clearance from Mexico with the Port Captain, and met up with our friend Vivien from the SV Lady Ann whom we had met last year in the Sea of Cortez at a music bash on the beaches of San Juanico.
TEHUANTEPEC:
This bay in southern Pacific Mexico is renowned for its fierce offshore winds known as 'Tehuantepecers'. The 260nm passage ends at the Mexican Guatemalan border. It is common to have 50-60 kt winds blow 10-20 days each month. Lionel has crossed Tehuantepec before and realizes that the safe passage through this large bay is to sail close to the beach in 40 - 60 feet of water as there are 15 ft. breaking waves 15-20 miles off shore. Boats have been known to have been swept 200 miles out to sea running a major gale. "Gotta be able to throw a rock to the beach," says Lionel, not wavering from his position having done this passage 4 times. We dutifully did our watch routines and followed our Waypoints close in, knowing that in 36 hours we would be out of the danger of Tehuantepec.
AND THEN SOMETHING WENT WRONG: Lionel came off watch at 0600 hrs. And before climbing into bed, he smelled diesel and did a quick engine check. As soon as he lifted the large floor cover to the main engine we could immediately detect a very pungent odour of diesel. Much to our shock, in checking further, there were about 35 gallons of diesel fuel that had spewed into the bottom of the bilge. Lionel lifted his head and turned to me and uttered 3 words, "This is serious." Nothing to say for the fact that we were in the middle of a critical off-shore passage. I froze, and tried to keep calm. It was like a double edge sword: Tehuantepec... and a fuel leak in the engine! What unlucky odds. Lionel descended into the bowels of the boat's main engine and discovered a pinhole leak in the diesel line. Immediately, 'the engineer' emerged and gathered a multitude of tools and equipment. He opened the floor hatch to the generator and stooped to the generator searching for an answer. If the hose fitting of the generator was the same one as the diesel line of the main engine, he would 'Rob Peter to pay Paul'. Aha, it appeared to be a good possibility. He went to work with his compliment of wrenches and tools. Quickly, back in the main engine cavity, he removed the worn hose and replaced it with the fuel hose from the generator. A good fit! The tiny hose leak was repaired thanks to Lionel's mechanical skills and expertise. At the next port we will try to find the necessary connector to get the generator back up and running.
CRUISERS' NET
We are near the Guatemalan border now and have bid farewell to the Sonrisa net, the Southbound net and the Amigo Cruisers' Net where we have checked in twice daily reporting our position and weather conditions as well as getting updated weather forecasts. This is done using the Single Side Band radio. Range is controlled by atmospheric conditions. One after noon when checking in we were talking to a ham operator in Ontario.
ENROUTE TO COSTA RICA
November14th Log entry
200 34.4N 91.21.2W S.0.G. 5.3 C.O.G 123 WIND 0 Sea like glass, stars like diamonds.
Air is sweet, almost fragrant.
.
On this journey we have had some interesting experiences and have seen a variety of sea life: dolphins by the hundreds leaping around the boat, one whale, many large sea turtles migrating to spawning grounds and incredible seascapes. We are sailing in International waters close to the El Salvador, Nicaraguan and Costa Rican borders. It is so exciting to be on this amazing journey with the best to come...
We are living a dream of sailing Sea Whisper to Panama and the San Blas Islands enroute to the South Pacific. As we go about our daily duties navigating to the southern hemisphere we are reminded of nature and her glorious tribute to the sun, the moon, the sea and the earth. To view a radiant moon in the dark of night, the new dawn on the horizon pouring its light in the sea, the stars in the heavens like an unceasing cast of diamonds; this is joy. "There is one spectacle greater than the sea, that is the sky." Victor Hugo 1802-1885.
We are happy. We are content. On with the dance!
Barbara and Lionel
SV SEAWHISPER
We can be reached at cfn4129@sailmail.com (at sea) cwhisper@hotmail.com (on land)
Our new blog site is www.sailblogs.com/member/svseawhisper
We are working on this site and plan to post further Sea Whisper Adventures on the site.
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B and L