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Around the world with S/V Zephyr
The adventures of Bill & Tracy as they fulfill their lifes dream of sailing the world. We've dreamed of this for years and now is the time while the health is still good and there is money in the kitty to make it come true.
DAY 597 & some of 598--some work and some play
Still beautifully warm(almost hot-yeah!!)
12/21/2009, Marina Costa Baja, La Paz, Mexico

While I worked outside yesterday washing poor Zephyr, Tracy spent the morning defrosting the freezer. It had managed to get a good crop of ice on its cold plate and it needed to go as it was causing the compressor to run and run and run. Plus, it wasn't getting the frig section as cold as it needed to be. Out came the hair dryers and the sponges and scrapers and in she went. An hour plus later, the poor thing is now looking and running much better. It's better to do this at a marina where you have lots of AC power so it won't drain your batteries as it tries to cool itself all over again. It's a small space, but takes a good bit to time and energy to do the job.

Meanwhile, I grabbed the hose and sprayer and closed all the hatches and ports and went at it with lots of water. Poor Zephyr was encrusted in salt everywhere you looked or touched. Little crystals everywhere. From the bow--roller furling and anchor rollers to the stern--DuoGen & Hydrovane, she got sprayed and washed. All the canvas and woodwork got a good dousing. Once that was done, I had to go back with MacLube(Like a dry WD 40) and lube all the hardware and blocks all over the deck and believe me there are lots of them.

We were waiting for the service man to show up to work on the Honda Generator, but figuring it being Sunday, he wouldn't show up. So we took off for lunch at the restaurant at the hotel. Chicken Nachos and three chicken burritos plus a few Pacifica Lite beers and we were set. We found out today that that is when he had come to Zephyr to fix the generator. We're not leaving today till he comes. Back to Zephyr after lunch for more projects--dismantle the windlass--looked great-- and more cleaning. The fun never stops.

About sundown, we took off for the local bar/restaurant to watch the sun go down. I'll post some pictures of the place tomorrow or Wednesday. We took a tour of the hotel--nice place. I would bet the occupancy rate isn't greater than 10 percent as we have seen very few people on the beach or in the restaurants. It's a shame as it is a gorgeous resort. Prices aren't bad, I guess the name isn't out there yet about them.

Back to Zephyr to barbecue some brats for dinner and then over to the hot tube along the beach for a nice soak and a nice shower at the hotel. NOW, we are living the dream!!!

Today started with me going up the mast to fix the wind gauge at the top. It had come loose sometime on the trip up from Los Muertos. We hooked up our climber and used the battery drill (Milwaukee 90 degree drill with a bit that fits the winches) that we use to adjust the sheets on the sails to pull me up using the Main Halyard(rope that pulls the mainsail to the top of the mast). Up I went, slick as a whistle. It was my first time up. Tracy had made it to the second set of spreaders and Matt(our son) had made it to the top, but this was my first time. Looking out or up and I was fine. The first time I looked down, it was a bit much. I was 65 feet above the water held up by one small 1/2" line sitting on a small wood plank. I really need to go up more often so I get used to it. Once up there it wasn't too bad. As it turns out, there are three screws that hold the bracket in place. One screw had fallen out and was gone. One was still in the bracket(lucky us) and the third was still screwed in. I took the one that hadn't fallen out yet and lowered it to Tracy(in a bucket) and she took off for the local marine hardware store(right up the dock). About 10 minutes later, she's back with extra screws and lock washers which was good as I dropped one of the washers. She sent them back up in the bucket with a bottle of "Locktite", and in they went nice and slick as you please. Tracy turned on the gauge and she works just fine. Thank goodness that one of the small wind cups that rotates hadn't broken as the company(Data Marine) has ceased to exist several years ago. Finding a replacement would have been difficult at best I think. Down I came, job done!! The knees were a bit shaky when I got back down, but hey what do you expect? It's sort of scary up there.

We now advised Direct TV to cancel our service as we can't get a signal down here. We could up in Alaska, but not down here. We would need a much bigger dish and it was taking up a lot of space on the stern. The dish went into the marina trash this morning. Now the stern looks much cleaner. It may have looked a bit strange sitting on the stern, but having that little bit of communication with the outside world when ever we hit a marina or VERY calm anchorage made a big difference in the past 20 months since we moved on board in Newport, Oregon. With over 8 months on the hard in Port Townsend, it saved our sanity(sort of). One less bill each month.

So that's the way the day has passed so far. It's nice and warm and we wait for the serviceman to show up. Tracy took our laundry up to the laundry service. You can do it yourself or they have women there that will do it for a few extra pesos. We splurged and are letting them do it. We haven't done laundry in close to a month and were just about out of everything. It will be done(and folded) by 1600. I'll let you know how much it costs--it isn't cheap as you would think down here( a beer is over $2.50). Tonight--another sunset to go and appreciate(with a beer of course).

To Colin and Jackie in the UK, welcome to the family. Our earlier posts can be read at "svzephyr.blogspot. com"(no www required). It's our journey(good and bad) getting to where we are now with all the trials and tribulations that went along with it. I do tend to rant a bit though. Enjoy!!

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12/23/2009 | Bill and Susan Gardner
Feliz Navidad! to you both. Looking out on the grey, cold, freezing waters of Georgia Strait, we think you are lucky to be where you are. We are soaking up warmth from your blogs and photos. Oh, so that is where the missing bottle of wine had gotten. You remember I kept wine and juices around the masthead because they were both heavy, thus bringing weight to the center of Zephyr. Since wines and juices are not magnetic they wouldn't affect that compass on top of the water tank nearby. Hope the wine has aged well!

Your mast climbing gear sounds very slick. But we both agree with you that the sight from up on top is rather scary!

Good cruising and happy New Year.

Bill and Susan
02/12/2010 | Patricia Nathan
Hello Bill and Susan: met you at the little bar in Cabo - Tanga Tanga you let me enjoy the fish taco.s with you - they were wonderful!..glad your still having fun!
Bless you and the kitties and thaks for blogging..Pat
More pictures
Sunny and warm, thank God!
12/20/2009, Marina Costa Baja, La Paz, Mexico

OK, I posted some more pictures in the gallery of Los Frailes and Ensenada de Los Muertos bays.

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Day 596 Into La Paz!!!
Bill, Sunny and bright
12/19/2009, La Paz, Mexico

We'll we finally made it to La Paz!!! It took us four months and three days to do it, but we are now at Marina Costa Baja (24 13.006N 110 17.966W) just North of La Paz all tied in.

We launched the dingy while we were in Los Muertos and headed in to the local restaurant for a nice lunch. It had been the Giggling Marlin Restaurant(quite famous along the coast) but was now under a different name. The Marlin had sold out and left. Once back at Zephyr, we stowed Puff on deck and got everything ready for setting off for La Paz. I looked into the problems we had with the bilge pump running continually and found that an old bottle of wine had slid from somewhere forward in the bilge and pushed a hose up so that it held the switch up making the pump run all the time. Now the switch is fixed and I got a nice bottle of red wine out of the job. It's been there so long that there is no label on it so I guess we will have a mystery wine some night with dinner.

We left Los Muertos last night at 2200 after the wind had calmed down some. Two other boats had already left and radioed back that they were making good progress up the channel. Now the reason we had to leave at such a late hour was not just the wind, but also the tide. It was still a flood tide till 0855 this morning so we wanted to take advantage of it to help us ride it in instead of fighting it the next day. Plus, it's a trip of 54 miles and that takes a while at about 5 knots.

Off we went at a good clip with the winds pushing us along for a while and once we rounded the corner and headed up the channel between Isla Cerralvo and Baja, the wind hit us in the face all over again. No where near as bad as it had been the previous day, but it slowed us down for a while. With the incoming tide, we were still making good time so we slowed Zephyr down to just over 4 knots so that we would make it to Canal San Lorenzo which separates the Baja from Isla Spiritu Santo. There, the tide can run up to 3 knots through a sort of narrow channel with reefs and shoals on both sides so you try to hit it at a flood tide if at all possible. Well, as I said, our tide reversed at 0855 and we had to be through there by then or pay the piper with a current hitting us smack on the nose.

Luck was with us and we got there just about 0700(having slowed down a good bit). We coasted through the channel just fine and made our way toward La Paz. I radioed ahead and tried to get a slip at Marina de La Paz but they only had one left and it was on an outside finger of a pier and would be quite rolly. We opted to try for Marina Costa Baja about 4 miles North of La Paz, right at the main entrance to the channel that finally leads to La Paz. La Paz a VERY well protected anchorage but suffers from tidal flow where your boat will be facing one way for several hours and then will reverse as the tide changes. It's called the La Paz Waltz. If you are at anchor, you better be anchored well or you will drag as your boat changes direction over and over. Never a good thing when there are so many boats around as there are in La Paz.

Tomorrow, I get to go up the mast as we found that the wind instrument at the top has broken loose and is flopping around. Luckily, it hasn't broken any of the wind cups. So up I go to find out what has happened.

Meanwhile, we have settled in by taking a short walk around the marina/resort. It is quite a place with lots of things to do and see. After a short nap to try and catch up on the sleep we lost last night, we took the 1620 shuttle(the marina runs a shuttle to town every hour) into town and walked the streets and had a great dinner at one of the local restaurants. I tried a steak, Mexican style. It ended up being steak fajitas. Who knew that is what Mexican style meant. We walked down to Marina de La Paz, where we had intended to stay. It is right in the middle of town and noisy as all get out. Lots of boats coming and going and exposed to all sorts of wind that we don't have up at Marina Costa Baja. We're glad we chose to stay where we are. It's a bit of a trip to town but that's all right.

So over the next few days, we have several tasks to get done before we set off again. One of the first tomorrow is to wash Zephyr down and get all the salt off her hull and deck as well as all the equipment on deck. It can clog every block if left to time.

I'll be posting more pictures over the next day or so of the slog up from Cabo San Lucas. Stay tuned for more

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12/20/2009 | MARTY
Congratultions! The good news is that you made it, although the trip was rough at times, but what an accomplishment. Good job!! You can now have a wonderful Christmas and celebrate with your son in a balmy clime.
Day 593 & 594 We made the jump!
Bill Hudson
12/12/2009, Ensada de Los Muertos

After days of waiting(along with 12 other boaters), we made the jump to Ensenada Los Muertos. Now yesterday(Wednesday), had been another day of waiting. We needed the wind to finally drop to under 20 and the wind swells to back down some. They had been rolling down the Sea of Cortez at a rate of a 5 foot wave every 5 seconds or less. That, mixed with the wind is not a fun day on a sailboat. The wind howled through the anchorage and blew and blew and blew. With the DuoGen on the stern, it blew so much, I didn't have to fire up the engine to get the amps replaced in the battery.

Today(Thursday) was the day. The winds were forecast to be only 10 to 15 and maybe 20 as a max depending on who you spoke to or read. The best time to leave was in the early morning. Winds and waves would be at their smallest. We got a radio transmission from a boat called "Pam Demonium" that they had left the anchorage about 2330 hours. They got slammed by waves and winds as they rounded the corner of the small bay we were in(Los Frailes). They thought for a while that they would have to turn back as they had a few days ago during a previous attempt. Instead, they along with the folks on Arena(we first met them in San Diego) took off. Arena was actually the first out and there was no stopping them.

So we got up on deck and made the last preparations for getting underway. Several other boats were up on deck also getting ready. We upped the anchor about 0030(living the dream remember) and headed out under a moonless sky. It was blowing about 15 to 20 when we left the anchorage. More boats followed us out. There had been 13 boats in the anchorage, some for over a week just waiting. Two by two, out we came into the wind and waves. They hadn't let up. In the end, we think 7 of the 13 boats took off today, maybe more. Off we set, with the wind on our port(left) side at a steep(for a boat) angle. We were getting nailed by winds at about 45 degrees, luckily coming from the Northwest. Off we went--slowly but surely. We don't know why, but with winds like those(20+ knots), we should have been easily hitting 6.5 knots. Instead, we were lucky to do 3.5 knots. We put up different sail combinations_- reefed main with the foretaysail.. Full main with the forestaysail and a small amount of the Genoa sail. Nothing got us up to anywhere near 6 knots.

We sailed across parts of the Sea of Cortez about 18 miles out from the Baja and as much as 35 miles from where we started. Not quite in the right direction, but sort of. Once out 36 miles, we looked to turn West to head up to where we actually wanted to go(still on the Baja side). We had hoped to make it back on a nice 90 degree turn but Mother Nature would have nothing of that, so we ended up turning 120 degrees which put us on the wrong heading for where we needed to go. Much too far South. The winds continued coming from the North with matching waves. Once we figured out that there was just no way to make any kind of speed toward our destination, we threw in the towel and started the engine. As it turns out, so did most of the "fleet" from Los Frailes. By the time we were done, we had gone 76 miles to cover the distance of 42 miles to get to De Las Muertos. A long and punishing day for all of us. We're now anchored at 23 59.215N 109 49.720 W. At least that is what the Garmin says. But looking at the map on the Garmin, it shows us on land. So much for accuracy.

One boat blew out his Genoa sail. He arrived just after us with it in tatters. Another had problems with his transmission and limped in later. Another tore the leech(outside edge) edge of his Genoa slogging through the wind and waves. We have problems with the fresh water pump running continually. We didn't catch it till morning so it took a lot of our amps over night. It wasn't running when we arrived and started sometime during the night. It appears to be just some air in the lines as after running the faucets for a while and getting some air out, it appears to be back to normal. The bilge pumps also decided to act up. They won't shut off(both the auto pump and the emergency pump)unless I turn them off at the main breaker box(not a smart idea when on passage). Looks like I'll be back down in the bilge later this morning.

Some that made it in with us last night have already left for the slog into La Paz to try and make it during the flood tide. Some of us are trying to recover before setting off early tomorrow morning. The tide hits its high by 0930 so we have some miles to cover before we put in at an anchorage to wait it out.

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12/18/2009 | Celeste & George
You're inspirational! We're still lollygagging in Avalon. Much love to you both!
12/20/2009 | colin&Jackie
Just found your blog, sounds like your out for an adventure, I'll be following you from the UK
Still here on day 591
Bill Hudson
12/12/2009, Bahia Los Frailes

We're still "stuck" in Bahia Los Frailes(pronounced Fry-lays) by the big winds. We were in the 30 knot range through the evening and into the night. We had hoped to head North to Ensenada de Los Muertos(Cove of the Dead) if the wind had calmed down, but it did not. So here we sit and wait. There are a lot worse places to be "stuck". We do have to be in La Paz by next Sunday to get ready for our sons arrival.

Yesterday we were treated to a sight of manta rays jumping out of the water and doing belly flops back down. There were four to five at a time flying and splashing down. It appeared that they were herding a bigger school of fish of some sort around the bay. It went on for a good 20 minutes. It all started just after we returned from snorkeling around the reef close to shore near our bow. We saw an amazing assortment of all types of fish with colors so bright. Tracy saw a moray eel as it came out from the rocks below her. She quickly backed away from him. They have sharp teeth. As we swam along, I saw something shiny on the bottom(about 25 feet down) and headed down to get it. I found a nice fishing lure to add to our collection. The last time I saw something shiny on the bottom, it turned out to be a gold ring while we were sailing in the Virgin Islands a few years ago.

Earlier in the morning, I took Puff and Dragon and made trips to some of the other boats to see where they were headed and see if they were going to La Paz as to where they would be staying. Most appeared to be going to the Marina La Paz versus any of the others. I figure(once we get there)we will anchor and check at each marina to see what each has to offer. While we don't expect to be in a marina for an entire month, it never hurts to shop around.

Our friends on Arena showed up about 1430 after a good sail up the coast from Cabo. They got lucky and had wind from a direction that allowed them to sail where we had to motor North from the South cape. It was good to see them again. We stopped in to chat and meet the company(their kids)they had picked up while in Cabo. Having been here a few days, we clued them into the reef for snorkeling.

So, here we sit, dingy on board and stowed, all ready to go with a forecast for winds in the high 20's to mid 30's waiting for the calm to arrive.

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12/16/2009 | Dave Foss/Boise
Just think if you had gone the motorhome route. You could lower the TV antenae, hook up the Saturn, send off your Good Sam dues and buck the winds all the way to La Paz. Gas mileage would not be much, but you would not be bothered by all those pesky international beach guest with stories of sailing the seven seas.

Dave in Idaho
12/16/2009 | Brenda Hass
Or seen something as spectacular as the rays jumping out of the water. What I would do to my motorhome to enable me to see that!
A Bomb comes to mind...
Day 590 Some work and some play.
Bill Hudson
12/12/2009, Bahia Los Frailes

We started today listening to Don Anderson's weather forecast on the SSB Amigo Net that broadcasts about 0700. His forecast is for big winds--20 to 25 knots building to 35 by tomorrow afternoon and all from the North, just the direction we need to go. I think we may be here for a few days.

We started cleaning up different area of the boat today and started with the sump under the shower stall and the filter all that water goes through before being pumped overboard. Can you say GROSS! We straightened out different area to just make Zephyr look a bit tighter as we go through the waves.

About noon, two folks(Dennis and Pam from Pamdemonium)came by to tell us they were putting together a pot luck party on shore about 1530 and would be calling around to see what everyone was bringing about 1400. Sound like fun and sure beats cleaning. Puff was quickly launched and Dragon added to get us to shore. We put on the wheels to make it easier to get up on the beach and decided to bake some ginger cookies. When the call went out at 1400, we were the only boat to suggest any kind of desert so that worked out fine.

About 1530, all the dingys around the bay--10 of us--headed for shore. In we came and up onto the sand. Our third beaching with no problems. Each time we get better. A quick walk down the shore meeting people from all over the world. A nice couple from Australia just heading down the coast from Vancouver Island. Another man just returning from Tahiti. Others from Marina del Rey and the list goes on. A wide group of people all brought together by being sailors. A fun evening of swapping stories and getting to know each other better. We'd met some before and some are now new friends. This is something that just doesn't happen back at home. Heck, if someone stopped by and ran the door bell, you probably wouldn't even answer the door. A few days ago, Dave from Idaho asked me if it was difficult meeting people out here. Heck no, it's easy!! We all have pretty much the same thing in common with different stories to tell.

About Sun down, the party broke up and we all headed back toward our dingys. We turned ours around(still on wheels) and took her back down to the surf line. The tide had come in and we were right at the surf line as it was. We push Puff out into the water and I started the engine(in neutral of course) and jumped in once we were far enough out as Tracy steadied Puff. I got her out a bit farther and suddenly, it became quite apparent that there was no way for Tracy to get on board. She was hanging on to the ropes along the side and getting dragged along as we slowly putt putted out. With no way to get on board, there wasn't much to do but keep going with her laughing most of the way out. It looked strange but with the Sun down, no one could see her. Before we left Los Angeles, I had purchased a boat ladder for just such a situation, but I'd never installed them. Care to guess what will be installed tomorrow morning? Anyway, we got back with no problems and rinsed off the salt water while on deck(we have one of those solar shower gizmos). We don't want to ever ring salt water below deck as it doesn't dry and makes the cabin floor very slippery.

It's now just after 1900 and we have settled in for a quiet night. The winds(forecast to be at 25 knots right now) had died to next to nothing. The stars are out and with no moon, it's gorgeous. Now we will see what tomorrow brings.

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12/13/2009 | Brenda
Just wondering if you get American TV down there and if not can you watch Survivor on the computer?
12/13/2009 | Trudy
I sat here today and wondered what tomorrow would bring here in Denver -- snow? cold? But Tracy (Diana) is being dragged along, laughing all the way?! -- life IS but a dream. Keep your dream alive -- and let us live it with you all the way. Happy Holidays -- and keep us apprised in the New Year. We will be with you and the fur kids in your adventures.

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