03/28/2010, Mazatlan
We blew into town earlier this afternoon with winds coming from the West. They had shifted earlier in the day from the Northwest. Having them come from the West made it harder as that was the direction we were coming from and that put the wind right on our stern. Not the best place for it. We had been on a port tack(winds over the port side of the boat)for the entire trip over the Sea of Cortez. I think it is one of the longest single tack trips we have ever made. From what we have read, once you are out there, most of the trips you make are that way. I guess we will see eventually.
Anyhow, we arrived at 1430 after after a slow last few hours of the trip. The forecast had been for winds from the Northeast. So much for accuracy. In total, we covered 238 miles in 54 hours and 55 minutes or about 4.33 nautical miles per hour. A big improvement from the first day where we just limped along with darn little wind. We're now located at 23 10.97N 106 24.326W. We've crossed the Tropic of Cancer again so we are officially back in the tropics again. We also lost an hour of time as Mazatlan is on Central time and will loose another hour this weekend as Mexico goes on daylight savings time. One hour change is bad enough to try and get used to. Now, we will have to get used to another hour loss next weekend.
We saw a few more whales during the last part of the trip and had our first hitchhiker join us. A large bird(Booby we think) landed on the stern rail and stayed with us for quite a while. I approached him with crackers(about 6 inches away) and he wasn't interested at all, nor was he afraid of us. He just sat there and slowly walked along the rail and over the life raft and the seat we have on the stern rail. He'd take off every once in a while and circle Zephyr and then find a new place to land and check out. He was very interested in all the different lines on board and picked up each to see if it was edible.
We finally started the engine about two miles from the anchorage to get us safely past the shrimpers and fishing boats that were coming and going. All in all, an enjoyable trip. Especially with no sound of engine running day and night as it has on some of our previous passages. We only ran it for two hours(if that) to get us past the one lone island we had to get by.
With these last few posts, you have read what it is like while out sailing on a passage. It had it's good and it's bad times. A much closer look at how we did it. I hope you enjoyed our story.
Tomorrow, we expect to go over the the Mazatlan Marina and see if we can get a slip there for a short time so we can explore the town. I'll let you know how that goes tomorrow. Meanwhile, it's about time for bed. We've each had maybe 6 hours of sleep in the last 60 hours and are both beat. Good night.
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03/27/2010, Somewhere in the Sea of Cortez
1040 hours Day 2
We're moving right along in 15 knot winds from the Northwest. It's pushing Zephyr on her way to Mazatlan.
After Tracy came on watch, I went below and got our breakfast--cereal and then tried to get a bit of sleep after having only 3.5 hours the previous night. It just wasn't coming so I got up after an hour and a half. Tracy meanwhile had been playing with a pod of dolphins that came by to visit and stayed as long as she was at the bow clapping for them. When she left the bow, off they went. Apparently, they kept bumping the hull to scratch their skin as they passes us over and over again. The weather forecast is for 15 to 20 knot winds for the rest of the day. That's about what we have now. Tomorrow is for winds from 25 to 30 in the afternoon. With luck, we should be in Mazatlan by late morning or early afternoon at the speed we are doing now. With these winds, we are in the mid 5 knot range and will climb to the 6's in gusts. The DuoGen is spinning around off the stern making lots of electricity for us. Unfortunately, not enough to keep our batteries full with the electronics we are using. The Garmin chart plotter, Robertson/Simrad autopilot(not engaged), Data Marine wind, depth and knotlog, plus the Cool Blue refrigerator all use a good bit of energy when they all run at the same time. I may have to run our little generator on the stern for an hour or so later this afternoon. We will just have to see. More as the day passes.
1400 Hours Day 2 We passed the halfway point at of our journey at 1237 at 23 53.206N 108 22.779W with the wind still off the stern Port quarter at about 10 to 12 knots. We've tried to keep it at about 150 degrees so that we aren't going straight down wind. We've found you go faster and uner better control if you do it this way. We've still seen no other boats since Sun up. The higher winds that are forecast for tomorrow have probably kept boats in their harbors. With luck, we will be at or near Mazatlan before the 30+ knot winds crop up. If not, in with the Genoa and up with the forestaysail(much smaller) and a reef taken in the mainsail. One thing I did get accomplished while were were making our way South a week ago was to mark the main halyard(line that pulls the mainsail to the top of the mast)with majic marker and later with whipping twine where it exits the sheet stopper(keeps the line from going back out when fastened down) in the cockpit. This way, when Tracy pulls on the line with our Milwaukee 90 degree drill, she know where to stop as the sail is at the top of the mast. I still need to do it for each of the reef points on the sail plus where the lines that holds the main taught along its foot with each reef. I can't see to the end of the boom to know when to stop pulling on the line. If I put too much tension on the rope, it could rip the main and that would not be a good thing especially since when you need to reef a sail, normally the wind and weather really suck and it needs to be done quickly and properly. Another job wfor when it is not windy and in port. Tracy is catching some ZZZZ since she goes on watch at 1500 for four hours and that is just 45 minutes from now. When you don't get a full night sleep, you grab what you can when you can.
As to the Bonito that we caught, well, Shadow LOVES it! He'll pass over all the rest of his food and gulp it down. Blue and Snowshoe pass on it. Amazing. I thought all cats loved fish. Guess not. We still haven't tried it but dinner is still a few hours away. We may just pass on it since it is so bloody and smells really fishy. And heck, Shadow loves it. More in a few hours.
1940 Hours Day 2 We're now 36 hours out of Playa La Bonanza and located at 23 42 444N 107 5.348W with 152 miles down and 79 to go. It's been an active day since I last wrote on this post. We rolled in about 50 percent of the Genoa once the winds started into the high 20 knot range. It helped some but we just kept surfing the swells. We're getting 6 foot plus swells at regular intervals of about 6 seconds so it's quite rolly with the odd rogue swell slamming into the port side. Surfing the swells has allowed us to hit 8.3 knots with regular swings of from 4.9 to 7.2 on the average set of swells. We fight our way up one and coast like heck down the steep side. ZOOM!!! About 1815, we decided to take a reef in the main since the Sun was about to set and we didn't want to get caught out here at night with too much canvas up. To do so, we had to roll in the Genoa and then start the motor to get the bow into the wind. Down came the main till I could attach the first reef to the gooseneck and then back up it went. Then I winched in the line that pulls the outer end of the sail tight against the boom and we were set. Off the wind we fell so that it was hitting us on the beam and out came about 50% of the Genoa sail again. We fell off the wind until it was hitting us back at 140 to 150 degrees off the Port stern quarter. Off we went like a bat out of hell. Surfing all over again. We'd hit 8 knots before. This time we made it up to 8.3. Even faster with less canvas out.
Once we were set, Tracy went below to heat up dinner. Leftovers are the normal bill of fair when out cruising. You make a casarole and and freeze the leftovers for the trip for an easy, hot meal. It's been a good bit cooler today than yesterday, but we have had a lot more winds. When we left La Paz, the forecast had been for moderate winds for the next 4 days. OOPS!! Guess not. I don't see 25 to 30 knot winds as "moderate". But what the heck. We're all set for what ever comes. I've got on my sailing gloves and inflatable life jacket with a safety harness and line to keep me attached to Zephyr should I get swept over board(God forbid). We learned a long time ago. Nature wins all the time. Don't take chances when it's not necessary. It's a rare time that I go out on deck with out a life jacket. Even in calm weather. We have a long journey ahead of us and I want to see all of it. Being the "deck monkey", I'm out on deck a lot more than Tracy is so I intend to play it safe.
Well, the night is just getting started. Tracy is below trying to get some sleep as she is back on watch at 2300. Meanwhile, I watch the wheel and direction of the wind and waves and we press on through the night. Sure am glad the Moon is up. Really bright out there.
0400 hours Day 3 The moon is full as it prepares to set behind us as we continue our way across the sea of Cortez. We've logged 195 miles and have only about 37 to go. Last night winds were forecast to continue from the Northwest at 15 to 20 but came in at only about 10. The winds that caused us to reef the main petered out about 1100 and I rolled out the rest of the Genoa. So now we are moving along with the main still reefed and the full Genoa out making 4 to 5 knots with the wind still off the port stern quarter. The same place it has been since we left Playa La Bonaza Friday morning. We're now located at 23 22.820N 107 04.034W for those of you folowing us on Google Earth. A ferry boat passed us about 1100 last night and that is the first boat we have seen other than the last ferry the night before. Not much traffic out here with the weather forecast for big winds(25 to 30) for this afternoon. They have forecasted 40 for just South of where we took off from. Tracy is catching up on some sleep below and I expect I will do the same after we get in and drop the anchor. It's the norm after being out for a few days. You miss a bit of sleep or at least the feeling of a good nights rest when it comes in 3 to 4 hour intervals. The swells as I went to bed at 0000 were upwards of 5 feet every 5 to 6 seconds, throwing Zephyr and her crew all over the place. You hang on to what ever you can find and brace yourself in the cockpit. Our Hydrovane--James-- has steered us right along never missing a beat. No food or electricity required. A great extra crew member. Never complaining and always getting the job done for us. Sure am glad we added him last July while in Port Townsend.
That's about it for now. I'm sitting in the cockpit with the sides up on the dodger so I'm protected from the wind blowing across Zephyrs deck. Long pants and a jacket are the apparel of the night out here. The decks are wet from the dew every morning. The sun is due up in a few hours and so will start another day.
0800 hours Day 3 We've just finished day two covering a total of 213 miles for both days and 122 for yesterday or just over 5 knots per hour. We're located at 23 16.808N 106 46.530W at the current time and still heading Southeast for Mazatlan. We just saw our second boat of the past 24 hours, a car ferry on it's way to Mazatlan. I expect he will beat us there. We maxed out at 8 knots last night under our reefed sails so that shows you that we did have some good wind during the night even though it died back a good bit as the time progresses. We shook out the reef this morning in the mainsail and now it's doing it's job. We have jsut 20 miles to go before we reach Mazatlan. Maybe time enough for a quick nap, but I doubt it. More after we anchor.
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03/26/2010, Somewhere in the Sea of Cortez
We're going to try something new for this blog. I'm going to do mini posts to this blog as we go across the Sea and then have it post at it's regular way.
We upped the anchor at 0745 in about 8 knots of wind. Surprisingly from the West and Southwest. The forecast had been for it to come from the North to Northwest. Oh well, Mother Nature must have gotten the memo that we were out again. Yesterdays winds would have been perfect for the crossing. Fifteen to twenty from the Northwest and decent small swells. Perhaps we should have just kept going. We pulled up the main sail and then rolled out our Genoa and off we went doing almost 4 knots. Dolphins came by the 100s to flock around Zephyr. Unfortunately, we were going so slowly that they just came, saw, got bored, and left. On we pressed with the wind slowly dying. By 1100, we took in the Genoa and lowered the main and pulled up the spinnaker. The wind was down to maybe three knots. Out she(the spinnaker) went and there we stopped. Once it was out, the wind died. It's now 1300 and we have gone 9.6 miles since we left at 0745. At this rate, we should be in Mazatlan by next Tuesday(maybe).
Ok, that's it for stage one of the trip. I'll write more as the day passes. Heck, not much happening above decks right now.
Part 2 1600 hours day 1 At 1330, the winds picked up to almost 8 knots and our speed went up to about 4 knots. Over the next few hours, it went up and down and is now at about 5 knots with us doing 3.3 knots. Not really that bad unless you consider that we haven't even done 20 miles for the day so far. In 8 hours=less than 20 miles=2.5 miles per hour. Wow!!! At that rate--228 miles to Mazatlan, it will be a few more days before we get there. We are considering continuing to use the spinnaker through the night. That will be a first for us. A few months ago, we had barely ever used one and now we are looking at using it at night. At leat the moon is cooperating being about 80% full so it will be nice and bright till about 0330 when it sets. We'll just have t evaluate the conditions through the night. I'm on watch from 1900 to 2300. Tracy then takes over till 0300 and I'm back on watch till 0700. It makes for a long night. We figure at least two solid days plus more if the wind continue at this rate. We've seen no other sailboats this trip and only a few pangas(fishing boats). For it being high season, it's really quite empty out here. More in a few hours.
1730 hours OK, we tried. We so wanted to sail the entire way to Mazatlan but it was not to be. By 1700, we were about a mile from the tip of Isla Cerralvo with it's reefs and that is not a good place to be as the Sun is getting ready to go down and there is just about no wind. So we bit the bullet and took down the spinnaker(wasn't doing anything any way) and started the engine. We'll run her for a few hours to get us away from the island and shut her down for the night and put up the sails and see what the night brings. At the worst, we sit and wait for sunrise and some much needed winds. At the best, we get some West to Northwest winds and make a good headway through the night. We've gone barely 22 miles of a 228 mile trip and had hoped to do much better after the winds we had had yesterday. Oh well, there is always tomorrow, and the next day and the next day. Eventually we will get to Mazatlan. I'll write more as the night progresses. We'll see what happens next.
2016 hours Oh, the last few hours have been exciting!!! We actually caught a fish!!! We tossed the line in the water to drag behind Zephyr early in the afternoon. Our speed was so slow, there was no way a fish was even going to look at it and if they did, all they would do was laugh at our pathetic try at fishing. Well, once we started the engine, it was a different matter. Just as Tracy was handing up dinner into the cockpit, she looked back and there was a fish on the line. We had passes Isla Cerralvo about an hour before and will all it's reefs, the fishing is supposed to be good around it. We had seen at least 6 panga fishermen all day around the island. Dinner was put on hold and we scurried to the back deck and I started pulling in the line. Tracy grabbed the net we keep along the rail. We had originally bought it to snare one of our furr people should they fall over board. In came the fish--big with blue stripes. Our book says it is a Bonito and is supposed to be good eating. OK, now we have a fish. What the heck do we do with it? We pulled out our big blue bucket and tossed him in it. He had already bled all over the back deck(Yuck). I got our filet knife and went at him. Tracy was reading what to do in one of our fishing books. Well, our fileting knife was about as dull as could be. So out came another and in I went. Along the top and along the bottom till I got to his back bone and then off with the filet. Blood was everywhere!!! I looked like Freddy Kruger from Nightmare on Elm Street. Side one and then side two and back into the water with the carcass. We had our first edible fish!! The book says his meat is supposed to be white but not the fish we caught. Oh well, I guess we will see what he tastes like tomorrow. Shadow sure liked what we gave him. He lapped it right down. The other two turned up their noses at it. Now back to a now cold dinner of tacos on flour tortillas from the tortilla factory in La Paz. Even cold, Tracy makes a great taco. We used more of the meat we bought at the local market where the local shop. It cooked up with just about no grease. Now that is lean meat.
At 1930, we turned off the engine after two hours and put back up the main sail and rolled out the Genoa sail at the bow. The winds were our of the North north west at about 5 to 6 knots. With the sails up, we started moving again at 2.7 to 3 knots. Not fast, but our chart plotter says we will be at Mazatlan in just 91 hours and 8 minutes. That's just shy of 4 more days. Now that's slow sailing. The forecast is for more wind over the next two days so that should help our speed. We'll see if they are accurate tomorrow.
I'm on watch till 2300 while Tracy tries to catch some sleep below. Strangely, all the furr people are back with her and not out on deck checking out the night life out here. Oh well, maybe later.
0530 Hours Saturday morning The hours passed quickly till 2300 when Tracy came on watch. The winds had stayed in the 6 to 8 knot range and we were moving along at 4 to 5 knots headed toward Mazatlan. The sky was clear and the moon lighted the seas. It was a pleasant sail. I sat in the cockpit and watched a movie on my IPod to pass the time. I stopped every 15 minutes or so to scan the waters around us. I briefly saw one ship far off our stern but it was gone in a few minutes. That was it. No other boats. Tracy came on deck right on time and I headed below for a few hours of sleep. The furr people joined me in the stern cabin. With the winds over the port side(left) I got to sleep with my head in a slightly downward angle. With no engine running, it wasn't much different from sleeping at anchor. Just a bit more noise from the water as it passed the hull.
Tracy, ever the sailer, went out on deck(in a life vest and safety harness clipped to our jack lines) and adjusted the sails to be as much out of the winds as possible. The winds are still blowing at 140 degrees off the port stern quarter(rear left side). The boom with the mainsail is let way out to catch the winds and the genoa is getting some also so she kept us moving along at a good clip. She got us up to 6.6 knots. We're now running along at 5.6 knots on a course of 106 degrees in 10 knots of wind. A big improvement since yesterday afternoon when we limped along at barely 1.5 knots. James, our Hydrovane wind steering system is doing well maintaining our course but our hydraulic steering sometimes heads us a bit to far into the wind so I have to correct it. The Sun if starting to light up the eastern horizon and it is expected to rise at 0613 so not that far off and another sunny day will be upon us. Tracy is due back on watch at 0700 so I can get a bit more rest. Meanwhile, the miles tick off and our new estimated time of arrival is now just 30 hours away. It helps to make some speed through the water. Not a ship to be seen around us. We've covered 80 miles of the 229 to Mazatlan.
0800 Hours Saturday morning We've just hit the 24 hours since we left Playa La Bonanza and here are our stats: Currently located at 24 02.991N 108 45.414W. We've covered 91.2 miles and have 138 to go. Our max speed was 7.0 knots-just a short while ago. We've seen several whales this morning and a few yesterday afternoon as we limped along North of Isla Cerralvo. And that's our first 24 hours.
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03/26/2010, Playa La Bonaza, Isla Espiritu Santo
We left yesterday from La Paz and started our journey to Mazatlan on the mainland. We stopped at Costa Baja to fill up with fuel on the way out of town. Now here is a tip on how the marinas make money off poor little cruisers. Heck, they hit anyone that comes into their docks for fuel. They are forced to charge what the state says(fuel is controlled by the Mexican Government). BUT, they can tack on what ever they want in "Extras". We ended up paying an extra $32.00 to basically use their dock. They tack it on a s "USE" fee. OH, they also have found a way o squeeze 6 gallons into a 5 gallon jerry can. AMAZING!!! There is no regulatory agency that goes around and checks the pumps for accuracy.
But any way, we are now at Playa La Bonanza for the night and are about to set off East. We fought the North winds for 5 hours to make it to the anchorage. Today, we are expecting good NorthWest to North winds that will help us scoot long eastward.
I'll fill you in with more later as it's a two day trip to the mainland. It's 226 miles at about 4, maybe 5 knots, so we will be out here a while.
More to come.
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03/25/2010, La Paz, Mexico
Well, it's time to leave La Paz and start our journey to Mazatlan on the mainland. It's been busy week getting as much done as we could. Not having a car has made it a bit tougher and slower with every task. The shuttle controls our schedules as to when we can go anywhere unless we want to shell out for a taxi and that can get expensive.
We arrived last Thursday and took the rest of the day to get settled and just look at the other boats and take a nice LONG, HOT shower not having to worry about how much and how long we stood under the water. On Zephyr, you stand in a room a bit smaller than an old phone booth and turn on the water and wet as much as you can and then turn the water off. Soap up(don't forget to shampoo at the same time)and then turn the water back on(careful--don't get scaled because you got the mix wrong)and rinse as quick as possible. You can forget about the shampoo mantra of"rinse and repeat". That just isn't going to happen. The joys of a nice long shower are truly one of the perks of coming back to civilization.
Friday was off and running. Tracy did the laundry as I hiked all over town trying to round up parts and equipment. The rest of the week just sort of blended together with odd jobs and errands to and from town. We made it to City Club(like Costco) on Monday to stock up on bulk items. Surprisingly, we didn't really buy a tremendous amount of food as we still have quite a bit left even though we had been gone for the better part of 2 1/2 months. Yeah, we had bought a few things in Loreto, but not that much. Zephyr is a big boat and can hold a lot of food. We had really stocked up well before we left the US.
I actually made my first phone call in over 4 month yesterday. I had to buy a phone card to get it done(actually several) as I had several companies that I had to discuss problems with. Being off the internet, we found that we had gotten well over 1,000 emails. I had to look at most and delete those we didn't need and place phone calls to some that we had to make urgent contact with that an email wouldn't take care of. It takes a long time to go through that many emails. I took a few hundred a day and slowly plowed through them. Gee, what fun!?!
So tomorrow, we take off for Mazatlan with a stop at Los Muertos on the way. We had stopped there on our way North back in late December and will probably spend one night there before the big crossing. Leaving from there, it's only 193 miles. If we leave from the islands(Los Santos) just Northeast of La Paz, it's 226 miles. Either way, it will take us an over night passage to get there. We expect a full moon in a few days so we will have plenty of light to allow us to see all that is around us as we cross the Sea of Cortez.
We'll be filling up with diesel and gasoline(for the generator and out board) as we leave La Paz. We're about half full of diesel so it's not really that big a deal, but it's always better to play it safe. Several other cruisers are leaving in a day or so so we expect to have some company during our crossing. I guess time will tell if we are alone out there.
Stay tuned, more to come as we set off on the next part of the journey.
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03/21/2010, La Paz, Mexico
We continued today with more jobs. Tracy took on defrosting the freezer while I got the job of removing the black water tank in the stern head(OH BOY!!)
The freezer plate in the freezer gets covered in ice and needs to be defrosted about every month or so just like the freezers of old. No such thing as "frost free"on a boat. There was quite a bit of ice on it and as we had planned to buy more meat for the freezer today, we needed to make sure it was nice and clean and ready to go. Out came the hair dryer and the scraper and in she went. I meanwhile took off the wall panel that covers the tank and headed in for a smelly job.
For quite some time, the stern head has been malfunctioning. It continually gave off bad smells when used and would pump back in when you flushed what had been pumped out after the previous use. I'd tried to clean out the breather valve but the installation was so tight that there was no way to get to it with out removing the tank. Out came the screws and off came the hoses(yuck!!). I crammed paper towels into every hole in the tank(of course some of the paper towels fell out as the tank was removed--yuck). There were were 6 brackets that held it in place all with 2 screws in them. Each brackets screws had to be labeled so that the proper screws went back in the proper holes they came out of. After a good hour, out it came.
We carefully took it off the boat and onto the dock where I could better check it out. Yep, the vent on the top of the tank was totally blocked. I pulled out my electric drill and reamed it out. It was now nice and clear. I cleaned the bottom hole(where stuff comes out) as it has some "stuff" stuck to the pipe. Back in it went. We had to align the pump out pipe on the top with the pump out fitting that goes through the deck. Once it was on, I wedged the tank in while Tracy made sure the screw holes lined up. In went the screws and the tank was fastened back in. Then on with the rest of the hoses and the clamps tightened and we were done--sort of. I stuck paper towels under each fitting to check as it gets used the make sure that there are no leaks(yuck). Tracy had cleaned the wall behind and under the tank and then scrubbed the tank before it was put back in. Might as well get rid of anything that might bring on an odor. Now we will see if we have solved the problem.
Once Tracy was done with the freezer(I had yanked her away to help me several times) we had a lunch of left overs and headed for the 1330 shuttle to town. We had provisions to start buying. We been clued in as to where the local "farmers" market. Great vegetables and meats at good prices and much fresher than what is available at the big box stores. We bought four kilos(8.8 pounds) of really good looking hamburger and two really thick rib eye steaks. They will cut the steaks to any thickness that you want and they packaged the hamburger in kilo bags to make it easier to freeze when we got back to Zephyr. Tomatoes, onions, limes and cucumbers were just some of the veggies we bought. We've gotten in the habit of taking cloth bags to make the trip back easier and these bags don't break.
We then took off for the local Issste store. It's government controlled so the prices are as low as possible. More great buys of more things we needed for our next journey. We were the only "gringos" in the place and we had other customers staring at us as we shopped. I guess not that many cruisers visit their store. We were a bit out of place. Tracy had asked around when we got here as to where it was and was repeatedly told by locals that they had never heard of the place. I guess it is a secret place meant for locals to use. We had been shown this type of store by the Linda and Dale off Moxie when we were in Escondido a while ago. We then headed to the local tortilla factory next door and bought a good supply of flour tortillas to shrink wrap for the future. They were still warm. We bought so much stuff that we took a taxi back to the marina.
As we were taking our provisions to the boat, another boat was trying to come in to the marina and didn't like where they had gotten assigned. We helped them tie up to the end of the dock until it could get straightened out and another slip assigned. We helped them get into their slip once the decision was made by the marina as to where they wanted them. They had just come over from the mainland and will now be making their way up the Baja side.
With everything on board, I headed off for the showers. After what I had been working on this morning, I thought it was a good idea to clean my self up properly. Boy--it sure is nice to be able to stand under a never ending stream of hot water and not having to worry about running out of both hot water and water. Ah, the luxuries of being at a marina. I talked to another cruiser on the way back to Zephyr. They had come into the marina expecting to stay a week and have now been here two months!! They had gotten stuck in the La Paz vortex. You come in and never leave.
Tomorrow, I have fans to install fans and plugs to replace. Plus, there is a swap meet at one of the local yards this afternoon that we will be heading for. Lets see what we can find that we might need someday.
The journey continues.
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