Into Topolobampo
11 April 2010 | Topolobampo
Sunny humid and hot
We made it into Topolobampo yesterday in the late morning about 1030 after a 236 mile trip that took us almost 50 hours to complete.
We cast off our lines and headed out of Mazatlan in the early morning to catch the early morning breeze as we set off Northwest toward Topolobampo. It was slated to be just over 200 miles so we expected at least a 48 hour trip or two nights on the water.
The winds piped up and we took off with all three sails(Genoa, forestsail and main) all up in the breeze. The wind was cooperating coming from the Southwest so we had the perfect wind to keep us moving. While the winds were in the 10 to 12 knot range, we were moving along at 4 to 5 knots. Not to fast nor to slow. We slid up along the coast about 10 to 12 miles off shore. During the morning as the wind slowly shifted coming more and more from the West. This was creating a bit of a problem as we were slowly being pushed toward the shore. There is only so far a sailboat will point into the wind and maintain a course and we were slowly reaching that area. Sailboats typically can only sail up to 45 degrees into the wind. Some will make it to 40 degrees. Since we were slowly getting pushed toward shore, we decided to tack(turn) and head farther from shore. We rolled in the Genoa sail and turned through the eye of the wind and unrolled the sail on the opposite side and off we went. When we sailed across the Sea of Cortez, we had done it all on one tack. Now we were going to have to work at maintaining a course toward out goal. "Serious"sailing! After our turn, we headed about 10 more miles off shore before we turned again toward the North. Again, the wind kept pushing us closer and closer to shore. After a short trip if about 8 miles, we tacked again and headed back off shore. We'd gone 18 miles to cover about 6 miles toward our goal. At 4 to 5 knots, that takes a time to accomplish. Out we went again. This time, when we tacked, the wind was a bit better and we could head more in a sort of Northerly direction. It was taking us back to shore, but would be a bit farther up the shoreline. We'd covered about 40 miles toward Topolobampo and sun was about to set and we were closer to shore than we wanted to be. With the setting Sun, the wind was beginning to die and that would really slow us down. So, in came the Genoa and down came the forestaysail and on came the motor(1900hrs) and back Northwest we went. I'd laid in a course on our Garmin chartploter so we would know about what heading we would need to go to get to Topolobampo in the shortest time. We changed course and took off. We left the mainsail up to better control Zephyrs rocking in the swells. Through the night, we kept on the move.
We'd heard from our friends(Rollande and Angus on Periclees) that they had had some problems making way North behind us. They had waited for the afternoon to head out from Mazatlan. Their progress was so slow through the water that they turned back to Mazatlan to get their bottom cleaned. It had been quite q while since they had had it done and they figured it was so loaded with growth that it was slowing them way down. They could only get 4 knots of speed out of her. Once cleaned, they would continue their journey on Friday afternoon. NO ONE starts a voyage on Friday!! It's just not done(don't have a clues as to why) since they had "officially started" on Thursday, they were safe from that curse. They arrived here a few hours ago in a lot less time than it took us, but we did it the hard way. We sailed even if we could only do 3 knots. When they hit that speed, they turn on their engine.
During Tracy's watch(2300 to 0300) she spotted fishing boats off toward the shoreline. Several of them. She kept watching them to make sure there would be no problems with the course we were taking. Suddenly, they started flashing lights toward Zephyr. Oh Oh, we were in a spot they didn't want us in. Fishermen down here typically use LONG LONG nets to catch their fish. These nets can string for miles across the water. We were obviously entering a "Net Zone". These things can get caught up in your prop and reek havoc with your transmission as well as any further progress through the water. Tracy quickly turned Zephyr away from shore and took us farther out into the Sea of Cortez. Apparently, that was the right thing to do as the lights stopped flashing at us. About 8 miles later, she turned us back North and on we went.
During the next day, some fishermen in a panga stopped by to check us out and see where we were going. They had come out from Altata, a small town along the shoreline we had passes on our way up the coast. We chatted--me in my pigeon spanish and they in their pigeon english. They told us where they were from but really wanted to know where we were headed. I called them over and tossed out some cold Cokes for them. It pays to be neighborly. We watched as they took out some glasses and ice and downed them. On we pushed.
During the afternoon, we saw a whale and one of her calfs playing in the water off Zephyrs starboard side. Mom was pounding her tail in the water over and over. A few minutes later, they were gone. That was about all the aquatic life we saw. Now birds were a different matter.
During the night, Tracy was repeatedly chasing Boobies off poor Zephyrs deck and rigging. Some, in trying to get off Zephyr, stuck their beaks and necks through the netting that runs along our lifeline. Tracy had to grab the birds and pull them out of the net and then try and throw them overboard. all the while avoiding their long sharp beaks. These guys wanted a free trip. Unlike past trips, we had no visits from squid on our decks. My watch(0300 to 0700) was eventless(boring).
On our second day, another panga with fishermen stopped by. Again, with eachs lack of language skills, we found out that they were on their way out to lay out their nets and wanted to make sure we would not be anywhere near them. Off they went, farther off shore. Several of the boats here in the marina had run across fishing nets on their trip along the coast. We were making such good time, we figured out that we would arrive at the outer buoy of the harbor at 0530, well before sunup. We slowed our speed down so we would arrive after the Sun came up.
The winds obliged about midday the second day and we could raise the sail again and sit back and let Zephyr be in her element. We took off, silently this time toward Topolobampo. On we pressed into the night. During the early hours of the evening, a boobie landed in the top of the mast and settled in for the night. Nothing I did phased him in the slightest. He was there till HE decided to leave.
When I came up on watch at 0300, the wind had died again or what there was, was not from the right direction. At the speed we were doing, it would be another full day instead of 6 hours when we would get into Topolobampo. In and down came the sails and on came the motor and off we went again.
Tracy came up about 0700 and we had a nice breakfast sitting in the cockpit as the Sun came up. We were now slated to arrive at the outer buoy about 0830. We'd been lucky and had gotten an email from Periclees that they had gotten from the folks at Marina Palmira in Topolobampo. They had included Google Earth shots of where the marina was and how to get in the harbor. In we went between the buoys with breakers pounding the surf line about a quarter mile to our right. Some of the biggest surf we have seen along our voyage. As we went in, I electronically marked on our Garmin chartplotter where all the interior buoys were so I could email their coordinates to Periclees. They had never been in here either. The channel wines it way along with shallow areas off on both sides. We passed our first Mexican Navy vessel as it zoomed past us heading out of the harbor. You watch your depth sounder all the way in. We were down to 6 feet below the keel at one point.
I kept radioing the marina(as well as the Port Catain) to let them know we were coming in. We got no answer to our repeated calls so we just headed in following the pictures the marina had sent Periclees. They were a BIG help finding the Marina.
Marina Palmira Topolobampo has only been open for 6 months and is still very much under construction. They have 10 to 12 slips available with power and water and another 12 to 14 with no power. We, of course, took Zephyr right into a slip that had no power nor water. So we backed out and went into a slip that did. I sat down later and email Periclees with the waypoints so they could get in safely.
We headed up to check in with the Marina. As it turns out, Alberto, one of the men that helped us in, is the manager of the marina! How's that for hands on. We sat down and worked it out. It ended up at $107.00 for a weeks stay. That works out to about $15.00 per day. One of the cheapest places we have been and as it turns out here is why it is so cheap. There is not much here at the marina. No laundry and only cold showers(no hot water). They do have wifi, but it doesn't reach the dock. If I want to go on line, I have to walk up to the offices. Not a big deal really. They couldn't be nicer here showing us what is around the harbor and making arrangements for anything we need. They have a man on the dock all day and guards on sight all night with a gate that requires an electronic key to get on the dock as well as off. Security to the max! Staying here does have it's perks. If you want a hot shower, the marina bought the local hotel(the only hotel in town)and you can walk over (a ten minute walk) and they will give you a room to use for taking a shower. OK, so it's not right here at the marina but that's not to bad.
We had a nice quiet night sleep though I will be taking off the rudder for the Hydrovane so it stops clunking back and forth as the swell here in the harbor hit it. So we're now at 25 35.971N 109 03.512 W for all you Google Earth fans out there. We've made arrangements to stay for a week so that we can visit Copper Canyon farther inland. Tracy is going to go with Angus and Rollande while I stay on Zephyr and take care of Shadow. He is constantly asking for more food to wolf down every few hours. We don't want to leave him alone. I'll go up on our trip South later in the year when we return here.
We walked into town this afternoon to see the sights. We'd been told by Alberto (manager of the marina) that there was only one restaurant in town and that was at the hotel. Well, we found lots of small eateries along our walk and stopped in at one for a delightful meal of two cokes and four Carne Asada(steak) tacos for about $3.80!! Food here is much cheaper than out on the Baja. they were great tacos. You could have 5 on corn tortillas for 25 pesos or 4 on flour tortillas for 30 pesos. They came with condiments of salsa(lots of cut up tomatoes and onion with jalapenos), sliced onion in a brine, a tomato based hot(spicy) sauce, as well as a guacamole sauce. We have yet to be disappointed with any meals we have gotten from the street vendors or small cafes along our trip. Normally, they have better and certainly more tasty food than the larger restaurants and at a much better price for us cost conscientious cruisers where every dollar counts.
We passed a political rally as we passed through town and wandered along their new Malecon(shopping area along the waterfront). Let me tell you, the Mexicans know how to party when it comes to going to a political rally. Free food, free tee shirts and sandals as well as a band and cartoon books(with the candidate inside) for the kids. People were streaming into the party. There were hundreds of people there all having a great time with music and games(a trampoline for the kids had been set up) to keep every one happy. What a show!!!
We have a marina dock party pot luck set up for this afternoon about 1700 so that will be fun getting all of us together for fun and food as well as lots of story telling about each others boats and where we have all been during our travels.