The winds have shifted enough that we can now make a more beeline course for the islands. We're now doing a course of 245T from 04 39.336S 133 25.488W with the wind over our port stern quarter. Still flying just the main sail and the forestaysail and they are doing just fine. We heard on the net(all us Puddle Jumpers that are left out here) yesterday evening that one boat lost the use of his mainsail when the headboard at the top of his sail ripped off the sail. Now he is faced with the same problem we have --going aloft and trying to get it back. They are unfortunately past any place where they might have a semi calm bit of water so they will have a slow time getting to the islands. If we had still had the use of our Genoa, we probably would have been there by today. It has really slowed us down not having that sail available.

Last night was full of squalls. When I came off watch at 2300, the skies had turned from starry to cloudy and by the time I came back on watch at 0300, Tracy had had at least 5 squalls pass in that time frame. During my time on deck, I had another 3-4. At least the decks are nice and clean.

We have about 460 miles to go and at our present rate, we hope to be at the islands by Friday afternoon. We did 116 miles over the last 24 hours and that seems to be about our average with this sail configuration. We've done 2711 so far so it's almost over. This has truly been one of the hardest things that we have ever done. It just continues 24 hours a day--day after day after day. If you are lucky, you might get 4 to 5 hours of any kind of sleep but even that is not quality sleep as you have to be ready to get up at a moments notice if there is any kind of problem on the boat. Once we get in and drop anchor, I know we will try and get some sleep, but I expect that to not come easily as we have to decompress from what we have been through for the last 28 days. We have some friends(Angus & Rolande) that got in a while ago and it took them a good week to get back to feeling regular. They are now cruising around the island of Nuku Hiva to see other harbors. We expect to see them when we get in this weekend.

So only four more night watches and then we can relax. This was truly a tough journey. If you have any questions about anything in specific, leave us a comment on the blog and I'll get back with you. Oh, by the way, internet in the Marquesas runs $5.00 per hour!!!

Tracy's two cents:

Wahoo, only 4 more night watches! Yeah....you would think we don't like night watches or something. They have there ups and downs. I love them when the seas are not restless and the skies are full of stars. I enjoy looking at all the constellations, the Southern Cross is awesome. I hate squall lines and washing machine seas. I don't particularly enjoy having to hold onto everything as you walk downstairs.

I think this passage has been much harder on Bill than it has on me, I can see him wear down day by day. Hopefully, several full night sleeps will get back into the groove.

I'm looking forward to: Fresh fruit, new cultures, actually being somewhere I've always dreamed about and stunningly clear water that is warm with more kinds of colorful fish than I can count.

I think once we are there for a while all the bad on this trip will go back into the recesses of our minds and only the good parts will remain. It has taken us longer, but it is hard on only two people to do. If I had it to do again, I think I would seriously think about getting two crew to help, that way you can have time to sleep and maybe function on a better level. We knew Zephyr wasn't a fast boat, but I think considering what we've been dealt, she doing just fine, creaking insides and all. Life could be much, much worse. I just didn't want to be eighty and be sitting there wishing I'd done this...at least now I can say we did it with no regret. Isn't that what life is about?