06/23/2012, Lautoka harbor
Having been away from "civilization"(city life) for the last 5 weeks or so, our trip into Lautoka today was an assault on the ears. Every where we went, there were loud speakers blaring out music or special announcements of a sale that some store out there was having. Why retailers think that putting a big pair of speakers right at their front door and blasting out music(normally music from India) will attract customers is beyond me and I was in the retail trade for 35 years in one capacity or another.
Horns honked and car alarms wailed down every street we walked. There didn't appear to be a quiet place in the city. We rushed past loud doorways just trying to escape and it wasn't just us. I saw several locals(Indian women in particular)wince as they passed doorways to store. Oh, our poor ears!!!
We spent the morning trying to get a navigation program we have from Nobeltec up and running. We've had it ever since we took off three years ago. When we were still in Mexico, I bought the unlock codes for the South Pacific. What the charts looked like on the computer screen could have been drawn by a child in third grade(no offense to you third graders out there that might be reading this blog). Charts they were not. Odd shaped blobs they were. I tried for hours and hours to get it fixed while we were still in Mexico all to no avail. Now that we are in the land of the killer reefs and knowing where you are at all times, in relationship to reefs becomes critically important, we wanted the program up and running the way it is supposed to. After over an hour and a half on the phone(thanks you Skype)with only about 25 minutes of it on hold(listening to the "don't worry, be happy" song over and over again), I was helped by a very nice knowledgeable support tech who worked me through several fixes. None of them made any difference(no fault of his). I downloaded and installed an update to the drivers for the program-- no good. It seems that the "dongle"(a USB plug in "key" that allows you to open the program)wasn't being recognized by the program. While in Mexico, they had suggested that I buy($150.00US please) another "dongle" and that would fix my problem. Once I got the dongle(yes, the mail actually worked for once in Mexico)and plugged it in, low and behold, nothing changed(except my bank account was out $150.00). Since we were leaving Mexico in a couple of days, I shelved the program(saying nice things about it to everyone I talked too of course) and got on with the voyage across the Pacific and life in general. To make this story shorter than I could, Kyle(tech rep) is going to log into my computer at 0800 Tuesday(1300 US time on Monday) and try and fix the problem. He did tell me, before he hung up, that I had even befuddled the more senior tech reps that had gathered around his station. With luck, we should have the problem fixed sometime on Tuesday(I know about this bridge in Brooklyn that's for sale.)
We dingied into Lautokas main dock just about 1130 and hiked the 20 minutes onto town and headed for the towns central fruit and veggie market to find fresh veggies. Radishes, cucumbers, lettuce, carrots, onions, potatoes were easy to find. After the 8 months we have been here, we have favorite vendors we return to over and over. Most vendors price their goods either as singles or as bundles or in a pile or heap at about $2.00 for what ever you need. Bell Peppers were not to be had unless you were willing to pay a huge premium for them(not us). Most item we bought were either $1.00 or $2.00. Over to the "Hot Bread" store for a small loaf of "whole meal" bread($1.05 Fijian government subsidized) and were were just about done.
Fiji has no $1.00 bills, just $1.00 coins. Paper money starts at a $2.00 bill. Sorry, no pennies, just nickels, dimes, 20 cent pieces(no quarters), 50 cent pieces and $1.00 coins. Stores simply round up or down once a total is reached.
We had lunch at a new (three months old) restaurant that is thoroughly Western in it's look and appeal. Tracy had a chicken salad while I had a chicken burger with fries. More expensive by a bit but good quality food. Brings back a bit of memories of being back in the states.
Once done there and with arms loaded with food, we grabbed a cab and took off for Fiji meats to pick up a nice set of pork ribs. We ordered them a few days ago but since we wanted them frozen(less work for our dinky freezer) we had to wait an extra day to get them. Back to Zephyr to unload and work some more on our computers and run our generator to recharge our batteries(about three hours each day). Tomorrow, I expect that I'll be working on the computers installing some more Google Earth overlays for one of our nav programs. Sounds like fun doesn't it? It's just another day here in paradise.
We've been joined by several boats that are participating in the "World Arc" sail around the world as we sit here at anchor in Lautoka. These folks take about two years out of their life(and about $35,000 entry fee) to go around the world. They spend just a few days in each port they stop at all the time chaperoned and cared for by Arc management. They get a whole month to see Tonga and Fiji. a very tight knit group of cruisers that travel together and take care of each other should any boat get in trouble. They are even having a special rendezvous at Musket Cove over the July 4th weekend(I think I'll pass).
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06/20/2012, Lautoka, Fiji
We upped the anchor this morning at 0830 and were underway by 0900 setting our sights on Lautoka Harbor. Our "Cruising Permit" expires on the 22 so we needed to get there today so we could check back in tomorrow.
We awoke to a totally overcast sky which is not the best day to travel in as sunlight is required to see the hidden reefs that are all over Fiji. We had out Garmin Chartplotter as well as a separate computer for our MaxSea program that was running on our computer below decks. It's a "repeater" so that everything that the one computer shows, is repeated above deck. Real handy so we don't get our primary navigation computer exposed to any elements(rain).
We wove our way around the reefs keeping a good lookout with binoculars as we motored across. Of course, the wind was right on our nose(but only about 5 knots) so it didn't slow us down too much. We were in and had the anchor dropped by 1400.
Yesterday was special in that all the other boats in the anchorage took off during the day. It left us alone in the anchorage. From our memory, it's only happened twice in all our travels that we have had any place to ourselves. Hoard to imagine since we have been out for three years. It was such a beautifully funny day that the water was an amazing shade of blue. We spent the morning snorkeling(still a bit cloudy) and the afternoon lounging on board reading or over the side scrubbing the little bit of growth off the sides at the water line. A very enjoyable way to spend a day(alone in an anchorage).
Not sure how long we will be here or if we will go back to Vuda Point Marina but we'll let you know.
Here's another picture of Navadra(pronounced "Navandra").
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06/19/2012, Fiji Islands
How different it is some twenty miles northwest of Lautoka. We have been at anchor here (Navadra) for some three or four days. Bill has told you about what has happened during the first couple of days here, but I noticed that he hasn't told you anything really about where we are and what it is like.
Navadra is a triangle of three islands that must at one time or another been a caldera of a volcano. The islands are volcanic and are tall and steep with goats meandering about on the cliffs at sunset. The water here is deep, about 70 to 90 feet and such a gorgeous color of blue. Sometimes the sky and the water become one in color and it becomes magical. It is the world's largest infinity pool. The islands are covered in verdant green. Lots of coconut trees with scads of older coconuts on the ground and green drinking coconuts still in the trees just waiting for someone to find a long stick and jab it off the tree.
The islands are all surrounded by white sand beaches of varying degrees of fineness. Most is fine sand that you sink up to your ankles when you walk, it makes for a great aerobic exercise just walking from one end to the other. They are also surrounded by a living reef that goes out about a 100 yards from shore that makes landing your dink interesting. A couple of days ago, we snorkeled into shore over the reef on the island of Vanua Levu (one of many in Fiji). It took your breath away. There were so many different sorts of hard corals of all different colors and shapes. They went from 70 feet up to just under the surface. Everything was alive which is a new experience. There were colorful reef fish darting everywhere, blue cromis, Sargent Majors, and tons that I haven't a clue what they were. I really do need to study a fish guide. I did recognize the two White tip reef sharks though! Except this time my heart didn't jump out of my chest in fright.
During the sojourn to shore we found two coconuts that we were going to husk and bring onboard to use as fried coconut for appetizers to go with our Sundowners. Well, let me tell you coconuts want to stay where you found them undisturbed. They fight you every step of the husking process and beyond!!! We found the "husking stick" and started to bang the nut down onto it. Ten, fifteen, twenty minutes later we are still trying to get the husk off the nut. Bill persevered with the husking eventually banging it on a sharp rock and eventually stomping on it while it was wedged between two rocks to get the last bits of husk off. Then on the boat I proceeded to try and get the meat out of the shell. I did get it open, but then ended up using a flat bladed screwdriver and a hammer to get out the white nuggets of meat. Whew, we earned the right to eat that baby! Into the frypan until it was golden brown then out to the cockpit to munch upon with our drinks.
Today, Bill and I are going to take Puff out for a spin to take a look at the reef that is in the middle of the anchorage as well as the surrounding reef wall on the west side of the islands. We will probably be diving on the reef in the middle of the anchorage. Four guys went out there yesterday, so it must be shallow enough to anchor the dink.
Three boats have left so far today, so now we are the only monohull boat here along with three other catamarans. The sky is clear, the temperature is in the mid eighties with the humidity at 70% and currently no breeze, so the water is going to feel wonderfully cool to swim in today.
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06/18/2012, Navadra Island
The skies finally let up late yesterday morning and we got out of Mana Island and made our way for Navadra Island. A nice island that's deserted--no natives. Yeah!!! a place to ourselves. Nope, two boat already here when we got here. OK, fine it's a nice big anchorage and we found a place to drop our pretty new anchor(88 pound Rochna) in about 66 feet of water. I think it's the deepest place we have ever anchored. It took all of our old chain and into the new that I spliced in back in Mexico. We have about 225 feet of chain out.
We got all nice and settled for the night. The kids liked it as they had free range of the decks after sundown. Yesterday, we awoke to the sounds of a big anchor being dropped nearby. A cruise ship had shown up from Captain Cooks Cruises(deserted island?). Launch boats came forth and some went scuba diving and other snorkeled and other just walked the beach. We launched Puff and got to shore after they did. Most snorkeled along the reef just off the sandy beach. We did it yesterday and it is a great snorkel reef with lots of good coral and fish for them to see. Better than most reefs these tour boat take you too. The upped their anchor about 1300 and took off. During the afternoon, 5 more boats showed up and everyone tried to get the best anchor spot. We were ashore when one dropped their anchor about 60 feet from us. They were close--too close for our comfort. As we swam back to Zephyr, I knocked on his stern and found out he had put out just 180 feet of chain. He seemed shocked that I had put out 225 feet. If we swung at all, there was a good chance we would hit each other. Tracy and I stayed on deck through out the evening just watching. I finally put out our fenders before we went to sleep. Early this morning, they upped their anchor and took off. No lose, except the sleep that we both lost last night. So far, no new boats but it's time for them to show up if they are coming. It's 1420 and perfect weather for traveling. Sunny to see the reefs. We're taking it easy right now, reading and snoozing the day away. Probably go in swimming later to cool off. It's 86 outside. The Generator is humming away and the water maker is making us 8 gallons per hour to keep our tanks filled. All is well. We have to be back in Lautoka by Friday as our cruising permit expires so we will have to get out of here Thursday just to be safe on getting back in time. Don't want to upset the government people. Bill
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06/16/2012, Mana Island, Fiji
It was blowing when we got in here in the 20+knot range and continued through the night letting up just this morning so it's down to around 10. Unfortunately, it just about totally overcast which means we can't see the reefs as sunlight is required. Most of them lurk just below the surface and sunlight helps reflect the change in the water above them. Because of that, we have decided to just stay put for today. Charts, as I have said, are anything but reliable.
With all the wind last night, I was awake at 0230 checking out our position. The anchor drag alarm hadn't gone off but it pays to be vigilant. Unfortunately, it meant that once I was awake, I was awake most of the rest of the night. Today will be cat nap day on board as Tracy didn't sleep well either. The "kids" on the other hand spent the night either sleeping or prowling around the boat(the usual).
So we sit and hope for sunny weather tomorrow. We have to be back in Lautoka by Friday as our cruising permit expires.
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06/15/2012, Mana Island, Fiji
While we had planned on taking off tomorrow for the south end of Naviti Island,a 42 mile trip, we decided to get a jump start and head for Mana Island. We'd been to Mana before so we knew how to get in pass to the atoll. You have to weave your way between sticks that come out of the water that used to be green and red. Not so much any more. We had tracks on our chart plotter but they were even off as accuracy isn't the best out here. Any way, we are now safe and sound, anchored in about 35 feet of water with only one other boat in here with us.
Early this morning, about 0430, I just happened to wake up. It was blowing about 20 knots in the bay(not in the forecast)so I got up and stuck my head out. Behind us, in the anchorage, a 61 foot catamaran(charter boat with at least three crew and three passengers) was all ablaze in lights as they were trying to get their anchor up. It had apparently dragged during this "blow". Two guys were at the bow and one was at the controls trying to keep control of the boat. They motored forward and finally got the anchor up. They then motored around the anchorage looking for another place to drop their anchor. Finding no place that they likes, the motored over toward the entrance to the marina and took a right. They headed in a small channel that runs parallel to the beach and ends over at Pinnacle Plantation Resort. Not really a good place to anchor but they decided to do it anyway just to get their anchor down for the rest of the night. When they shown their lights on us, it woke up Tracy and she joined me in the cockpit. By a bit after 0500, their anchor was down.
In the morning, Katie M II, a boat that was anchored beside us, had upped their anchor and made off for Denaru to drop off one of the crew since she was heading back to Vancouver. The Captains wife was flying down to join him that same day. Once they were gone, the big cat upped their anchor and came over and dropped it right off our starboard side. They didn't like the first drop, so they upped it and tried it again. This time, about 100 feet to our right. With their history from the night before, we didn't feel tremendously safe with them that close. This gave us another reason the get out of there.
So here we sit, safely at anchor with wind making our wind generator spin like mad. As we entered the atoll, we got a call on our VHF radio from Avante Garde III that they were leaving since it was so windy and rollie. They must be a lot lighter than us as, yes, it's blowing, but it was rockier at Musket Cove than it is here, and no where near as crowded.
Tomorrow, we shall be off for parts North. We'll see what the weather brings.
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