08 November 2008 | Vanuatu
Our passage from Fiji to Vanuatu wrapped up today. We had planned the 510nm trip as a triple overnight for several reasons.
The first and foremost is that the cyclone season has officially started and we want to be out in the open ocean for the shortest period possible. Three day forecasts are very accurate these days and in early November during a neutral southern oscillation year it is pretty easy to get a week long window free of tropical disturbances. In fact the long range forecasters are suggesting that mid December is the likely first opportunity for a cyclone.
The second reason is that we will arrive on Saturday and the officials are around in the morning from what we had heard but they shut down until Monday thereafter. No fun sitting on the boat for two days when you really want to see the island, and have to move on quickly anyway.
It was a light wind trip. We had a stint or two with the wind coming up to 20 knots but for the most part it was 5 to 15. The majority of the trip was dead down wind. We did a lot of motor sailing to keep pace.
We arrived at around 1PM, a little late. As we came in we hailed Port Vila Radio several times with no response. The cruising guides and sailing directions suggest that Port Vila radio should be called before entering the harbor and that they will dispatch the officials. No such luck.
Next we tried Yachting World. Yachting World rents moorings in the inner bay and they can arrange stern too hook ups at the little wall that runs along the bay near by the Waterfront restaurant. Hideko heard someone on the VHF with them but it seemed they needed a relay (maybe using a hand held?). No one answered when we hailed.
We followed the transit into the harbor and located the quarantine buoy. Sailing directions and cruising guides suggest you anchor here while waiting for quarantine. This also appears to be a primary anchorage as many yachts that are already cleared are anchored about. After anchoring and raising the Q flag we set about dropping the dink so that I could make a run for customs should they fail to show up.
Suzanne from Cheshire stopped by to let us know that things are pretty shut down on the weekend officialdomwise. She is from Olympia Washington, near Margaret's home town of Pacific. There was a large freighter on the dock back in the bay though so I decided to try the main shipping port since usually there's someone official around when big freighters are in port.
After a short trip across the bay I tied the dink up in the shadow of a 300 meter freighter. We were in luck. The customs guy was in the office and he was very friendly and helpful. He cleared the yacht in and gave us permission to go ashore as long as we left everything on the boat until Monday when Quarantine could arrive to inspect things. You couldn't ask for more. On Monday we'll also have to go ashore to clear immigration.
Back at the big boat we packed up our 80% deet and sunscreen and went out to explore the bay and find a nice place to eat. The Waterfront Restaurant has a nice dinghy dock so we tied up there. We set out to find a Japanese restaurant that Hideko had identified but they had moved and when we finally tracked them down they were not open until 6PM. Our plan was to try to get back to the boat before mosquito prime time so we passed on the Japanese. We ended up eating at Le Cafe du Village, a little cafe just down from the Waterfront (the Waterfront also opens at 6PM). The cafe was ok but I wouldn't recommend it.
The Waterfront was happening as we returned to the dink. They were burning mosquito coils all over the place. We'll have to give it a try. As we motored back to the big boat I tried to gauge the height of the power wires over head. These lines run from Port Vila to the little resort island that forms the west side of the inner bay.
The wires are listed in some of our guides as 70 some feet over the water. Our stick is 72 feet off of the water so without some specific local knowledge we're staying on this side of the bay. I think I might like it out here better anyway. As long as the wind doesn't come strong west the out bay is perfect. Still close to things but with more space and breeze.
After the two week crossing from the Galapagos to the Marquesas, no other passages seems long. All the same it is nice to get a good night's sleep at anchor after a few days at sea.